filing upright hammers, at strike, on-site

[jim ialeggio]

On-site work ...Short half day upright "make it sound a little better"
upright service for occasionally played pianos.

I've got a nice protocol for positioning grand hammers at strike while I
file, shape refine strike point etc. Gets me darn close to mated with
little fix-up fussing in the cavity.

I'm looking for ideas for on-site filing of upright hammers. Since
filing grand hammers at strike is so efficient and accurate, I'm looking
for some way to hold upright hammers at strike while at least defining
and squaring the strike surface. One obvious solution is to leave the
action in the piano and pull sanding strips across the strike point
while the hammers are held, by hand, at strike. This seems a bit
awkward, and am looking for other efficient approaches.

Any swell ideas out there, the defining point being filing at strike?

Jim Ialeggio

[Joseph Garrett]

Jim,
Not to be insulting, but really, what you describe is an excellent way to screw up a set of hammers, imo. Filing JUST the strike point of the hammer is counterproductive! You are leaving all of the rest of the now non-continuous layer of felt on the the upper hammer shoulder! To quote one of my mentors, Darrell Fandrich, "that's like trying to bounce a basketball with some foam rubber glued to the sides!" Would certainly take out those nasty "grooves", but nothing else.<G>
Get yourself a decent sandpaper file, (and no, none of our suppliers carry a decent one!) I have them available, if you are interested. (end of commercial<G>)
Then, make yourself a Hammer Surfacing Block for uprights. It's similar to the old Steinway Hammer Support Block that they used to give away and now sell, I believe. The upright hammers support block that I use/made is about 3"-4" long, with a slightly beveled bottom, (both sides towards the center of the block lengthwise) and has a 7/32" half groove across the top face 1/3 of the length. This will hold the hammer shank so you are not trashing the pinning while you are SURFACING/FILING the hammer, (the shape was originally made by the moulding, underfelt, felt skivinging and the caul that it was pressed in!<G>).
That, imo, is the correct/only way to do it. An additional final surfacing can be done with 3/8" wide, 180-240 grit, packing tape backed sandpaper strips, in the angled sections and a 2" wide strip of similar backed/grit for the straight hammers section(s)(upper treble). If you do it this way, it should not take more than 45 minutes to do the whole set. BTW, Take that sucker outside so's you're not getting hammer fuzz all over your clients house. AND, wear a mask please!<G>
Hope that helps,
Joe


om: jim ialeggio <jimia...@gmail.com>
>Sent: Sep 6, 2013 6:54 PM
>To: pian...@googlegroups.com
>Subject: [pianotech] filing upright hammers, at strike, on-site

Captain of the Tool Police
Squares R I
gpianoworks.com

[jim ialeggio]

Joe

> Not to be insulting, but really, what you describe is an excellent way to screw up a set of hammers, imo. Filing JUST the strike point of the hammer is counterproductive! You are leaving all of the rest of the now non-continuous layer of felt on the the upper hammer shoulder!

Not what I was suggesting. I was suggesting filing the strike point at
strike to establish a reasonably mated surface at the impact point with
a gang file. Then, of coarse, shaping the rest of the hammer, and the
near crown, but working to that that established strike point as a
target not to be further filed, except for fine tuning final mating. To
be clear, I'm not suggesting either a flat impact surface, but to
establish the actual point (or small impact point area) only at strike
with the gang file.

Taken hammer by hammer, and establishing the strike point one by one in
a non-strike position is just guessing, and results, for me in lots of
corrective strike point work. My take is that if the strike point, as a
target, not to be further filed, is established, at strike, in a gang
file, subsequent inaccuracies in one-by-one hammer by hammer
shoulder/near crown filing are not important.

> Get yourself a decent sandpaper file, (and no, none of our suppliers carry a decent one!) I have them available, if you are interested. (end of commercial<G>)
> Then, make yourself a Hammer Surfacing Block for uprights. It's similar to the old Steinway Hammer Support Block that they used to give away and now sell, I believe. The upright hammers support block that I use/made is about 3"-4" long, with a slightly beveled bottom, (both sides towards the center of the block lengthwise) and has a 7/32" half groove across the top face 1/3 of the length. This will hold the hammer shank so you are not trashing the pinning while you are SURFACING/FILING the hammer, (the shape was originally made by the moulding, underfelt, felt skivinging and the caul that it was pressed in!<G>).
> That, imo, is the correct/only way to do it. An additional final surfacing can be done with 3/8" wide, 180-240 grit, packing tape backed sandpaper strips, in the angled sections and a 2" wide strip of similar backed/grit for the straight hammers section(s)(upper treble). If you do it this way, it should not take more than 45 minutes to do the whole set. BTW, Take that sucker outside so's you're not getting hammer fuzz all over your clients house. AND, wear a mask please!<G>

What you describe here is what I've done in the past, and have been
unhappy with...tedious and imprecise at the impact point. Just looking
for a better system, but to be clear, the whole hammeris being filed,
not just the strike point.

Jim Ialeggio

[Ron Nossaman]

On 9/7/2013 7:08 AM, jim ialeggio wrote:
>
> I was suggesting filing the strike point at
> strike to establish a reasonably mated surface at the impact point with
> a gang file.

I tried this many years ago. As I recall, it wasn't the time and tedium
saver I was looking for. At least not the way I did it...
Ron N

[Regi Hedahl]

On Friday, September 6, 2013 8:54:37 PM UTC-5, Jim Ialeggio wrote:

I've got a nice protocol for positioning grand hammers at strike while I
file, shape refine strike point etc. Gets me darn close to mated with
little fix-up fussing in the cavity.

Jim Ialeggio

Jim,

Could you describe in more detail your protocol?

Thanks,

Regi Hedahl

piano...@gmail.com 

[Isaac OLEG]

"raising" the hammers at strike level always give a good clue of the way the crown have to be filed.

the tool used at Yamaha factory ('a sanding strip tacked on a handle that allow to attain better the underside) is a good tool to shape fast the crown. sort of shoe shine method.

Final filing with very thin paper, or the back of the linen. shoe shine with very thin paper ( 800 - 1000) is as ironing .

Plus I believe some abrasive grain goes within the felt and harden the crown (temporary)

that thin grit is  brightening the tone (if wanted).

[Joseph Garrett]

Jim,
If all of the strings have been leveled and all of the hammers are traveling correctly, then a squarely surfaced hammer will mate properly. That is accomplished with a good sand paper file and a good "eye" and lOTS of practice.<G> All this other "anxious" belaboring of the perfect impact to strike point is sensless imo. <G> If you were to really want the hammers, of an upright, to hit at the exact "strike point", after each hammer surfacing, you would have to re-set the action! It's an upright! It is what it is! It is NOT a grand. Therefore I think you are jousting at windmills.<G>
Joe

-----Original Message-----
>From: jim ialeggio <jimia...@gmail.com>
>Sent: Sep 7, 2013 5:08 AM
>To: pian...@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: [pianotech] filing upright hammers, at strike, on-site
>
>Joe
>> Not to be insulting, but really, what you describe is an excellent way to screw up a set of hammers, imo. Filing JUST the strike point of the hammer is counterproductive! You are leaving all of the rest of the now non-continuous layer of felt on the the upper hammer shoulder!
>

>Not what I was suggesting. I was suggesting filing the strike point at

>strike to establish a reasonably mated surface at the impact point with

>a gang file. Then, of coarse, shaping the rest of the hammer, and the
>near crown, but working to that that established strike point as a
>target not to be further filed, except for fine tuning final mating. To
>be clear, I'm not suggesting either a flat impact surface, but to
>establish the actual point (or small impact point area) only at strike
>with the gang file.
>
>Taken hammer by hammer, and establishing the strike point one by one in
>a non-strike position is just guessing, and results, for me in lots of
>corrective strike point work. My take is that if the strike point, as a
>target, not to be further filed, is established, at strike, in a gang
>file, subsequent inaccuracies in one-by-one hammer by hammer
>shoulder/near crown filing are not important.
>> Get yourself a decent sandpaper file, (and no, none of our suppliers carry a decent one!) I have them available, if you are interested. (end of commercial<G>)
>> Then, make yourself a Hammer Surfacing Block for uprights. It's similar to the old Steinway Hammer Support Block that they used to give away and now sell, I believe. The upright hammers support block that I use/made is about 3"-4" long, with a slightly beveled bottom, (both sides towards the center of the block lengthwise) and has a 7/32" half groove across the top face 1/3 of the length. This will hold the hammer shank so you are not trashing the pinning while you are SURFACING/FILING the hammer, (the shape was originally made by the moulding, underfelt, felt skivinging and the caul that it was pressed in!<G>).
>> That, imo, is the correct/only way to do it. An additional final surfacing can be done with 3/8" wide, 180-240 grit, packing tape backed sandpaper strips, in the angled sections and a 2" wide strip of similar backed/grit for the straight hammers section(s)(upper treble). If you do it this way, it should not take more than 45 minutes to do the whole set. BTW, Take that sucker outside so's you're not getting hammer fuzz all over your clients house. AND, wear a mask please!<G>
>What you describe here is what I've done in the past, and have been
>unhappy with...tedious and imprecise at the impact point. Just looking
>for a better system, but to be clear, the whole hammeris being filed,
>not just the strike point.
>
>Jim Ialeggio
>
>

[jim ialeggio]

The question was about efficiency, not about perfection, Joe.

Techs go on and on celebrating ineffeciency as if it were a virtue. In
my experience, efficiency worked well into a critically thought out
procedure not only speeds things up but seriously improves the
outcome...less work, better outcome...got a problem?

Jim Ialeggio

[Joseph Garrett]

Jim,
What I'm saying is, the techniques that I outlined, I've found to be the most efficient. (fro me) If you wish to continue pursuing another process in the search for your percieved "efficiency" quest... be my guest. No problem here dude! Let me know when you have reached that Nirvahna.<G>

Joe


-----Original Message-----
>From: jim ialeggio <jimia...@gmail.com>
>Sent: Sep 7, 2013 10:09 AM
>To: pian...@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: [pianotech] filing upright hammers, at strike, on-site
>

[jim ialeggio]

 For those interested, seems Ted Sambell gave a class on upright hammer filing in Chicago this past july. This post links to myptg.org

Sambell Upright hammer filing class

an interesting approach.

Jim Ialeggio

[Isaac OLEG]

Thanks for the pics, there are interesting goodies.

On site action can often be secured by laying voicing blocks on the keys near the balance rail. appied on the hamme rail rest or the hammer rail underside.

Depending of the action, some may be taken out anyway.

I had not much success with those curved files, even if having that lip to help squareness is agreable (that said some hammer size are not as square as expected) 

The rounded shape is OK for some hammers and cut the shoulder on others.

Basically with the adequate grit, the felt just tears in strips so the squareness is preserved relatively easily (with good hammers )

Some pre voicing helps by raising tension on the outer felt. 

80 grit is enough, for me (the grit may differ in European measurement system, but I think it is mostly for the very thin papers it is different (micromesh and the like).

[Isaac OLEG]

the hammers around the break regularely are not square at the crown.

string plane also is not always lining as much as expected.

a slanted crown is not much of a problem, hopefully, but shaping the hammers square is mostly useful in some regions.

A friend dismount the hammers and file them in a vice. it allow to do a little pre needling, to use an iron more efficiently, but I believe it is not necessary. a good job can be done on site.air blowing apart. 

Le dimanche 8 septembre 2013 03:55:25 UTC+2, Jim Ialeggio a écrit :

[Isaac OLEG]

Some support is better inserted below the shanks and even better under the hammer wood.

Working free hand from the side is dangerous for the centers. There are speial pliers to do so if wanted. 

No first voicing in procedure ? the hammers where lacquered ? they seem to have a good amount of tension anyway, are they cold pressed ?

[Isaac OLEG]

[Isaac OLEG]

[Joe Goss]

Hi,
In an upright ( not drop action but maybe there too ) when the action is
removed should the key rest on the back rail cloth or the front rail
punchings?
Joe Goss RPT
ima...@gmail.com
www.mothergoosetools.com

[tnr...@aol.com]

Joe

 

There is no "rule" for this. It all depends on the piano. Some keys have leads in the back end, some in the front end. It all depends how the keys are balanced.

[Joseph Garrett]

They SHOULD be resting on the backrail cloth imo. However, most do not, hence the reason for difficulty with leveling keys and regulation while maintaining the key level! I've taken it upon myself to reweigh upright keys so that there is, at least, 2 grams of backweight to hold the key in it's proper position on the back rail. It allows good regulation.<G>
Best,
Joe

[Joe Goss]

Thanks Joe, That follows my thinking also but was wondering.
Joe Goss BSMusEd MMusEd RPT

[tnr...@aol.com]

They SHOULD be resting on the backrail cloth imo. However, most do not, hence 
the reason for difficulty with leveling keys and regulation while maintaining 
the key level! I've taken it upon myself to reweigh upright keys so that there 
is, at least, 2 grams of backweight to hold the key in it's proper position on 
the back rail. It allows good regulation.<G>
Best,
Joe

Joe

 

Why would it be difficult to level the keys if lost motion is eliminated before you start that process, like you're supposed to do?

 

Wim

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Garrett <joega...@earthlink.net>

To: pianotech <pian...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Mon, Sep 9, 2013 4:37 pm
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Keys at rest

[Joseph Garrett]

Oh, forgot to say that it aids in far better repetition if the keys are back weighted. The key stays with the finger in fast playing.<G> Just did an Everett Studio. Really kicks butt now. Before it felt "fly-away" and had poor dynamic range and repetition.

Best,
Joe


-----Original Message-----
>From: Joe Goss <ima...@gmail.com>
>Sent: Sep 9, 2013 7:41 PM
>To: pian...@googlegroups.com

>Subject: Re: [pianotech] Keys at rest
>
>Thanks Joe, That follows my thinking also but was wondering.

>Joe Goss BSMusEd MMusEd RPT

>ima...@gmail.com
>www.mothergoosetools.com
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Joseph Garrett" <joega...@earthlink.net>
>To: <pian...@googlegroups.com>

>Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 8:37 PM

[Joseph Garrett]

Wim,

If the keys drop when any lost motion is introduced into the note, for aiding jack return or from natural compression, the key level will go south. And, repetition suffers as well. Somehow that concept has gotten lost in the manufacture of upright pianos. I've found that with back weighted keys things happen the way they were intended and key level stays as well. The main thing I like about that is the key stays with the players finger on fast playing. Suggest some experimenting to draw your own conclusions.<G> With the Everett I just finished, it originally had the keys weighed to produce 40 grams of down weight throughout the compass of the piano. Reweighted the downweight is in the 60's in the lower part of the piano, but it does not feel "heavy" to play. Go figger.

Best,

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: tnr...@aol.com
Sent: Sep 9, 2013 7:42 PM
To: pian...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Keys at rest

They SHOULD be resting on the backrail cloth imo. However, most do not, hence
the reason for difficulty with leveling keys and regulation while maintaining
the key level! I've taken it upon myself to reweigh upright keys so that there
is, at least, 2 grams of backweight to hold the key in it's proper position on
the back rail. It allows good regulation.

Best,
Joe



Joe

Why would it be difficult to level the keys if lost motion is eliminated before you start that process, like you're supposed to do?

Wim





-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Garrett
To: pianotech
Sent: Mon, Sep 9, 2013 4:37 pm

Subject: Re: [pianotech] Keys at rest


They SHOULD be resting on the backrail cloth imo. However, most do not, hence
the reason for difficulty with leveling keys and regulation while maintaining
the key level! I've taken it upon myself to reweigh upright keys so that there
is, at least, 2 grams of backweight to hold the key in it's proper position on
the back rail. It allows good regulation.

Best,
Joe


-----Original Message-----
>From: Joe Goss
>Sent: Sep 9, 2013 7:01 PM
>To: pian...@googlegroups.com
>Subject: [pianotech] Keys at rest
>
>Hi,
>In an upright ( not drop action but maybe there too ) when the action is
>removed should the key rest on the back rail cloth or the front rail
>punchings?
>Joe Goss RPT
>ima...@gmail.com
>www.mothergoosetools.com
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Joseph Garrett"
>To:
>Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2013 10:39 AM
>Subject: Re: [pianotech] filing upright hammers, at strike, on-site
>
>
>> Jim,
>> If all of the strings have been leveled and all of the hammers are
>> traveling correctly, then a squarely surfaced hammer will mate properly.
>> That is accomplished with a good sand paper file and a good "eye" and lOTS

>> of practice. All this other "anxious" belaboring of the perfect impact
>> to strike point is sensless imo. If you were to really want the

>> hammers, of an upright, to hit at the exact "strike point", after each
>> hammer surfacing, you would have to re-set the action! It's an upright! It
>> is what it is! It is NOT a grand. Therefore I think you are jousting at
>> windmills.

>>>> of commercial)

>>>> Then, make yourself a Hammer Surfacing Block for uprights. It's
>>>> similar to the old Steinway Hammer Support Block that they used to give
>>>> away and now sell, I believe. The upright hammers support block that I
>>>> use/made is about 3"-4" long, with a slightly beveled bottom, (both
>>>> sides towards the center of the block lengthwise) and has a 7/32" half
>>>> groove across the top face 1/3 of the length. This will hold the hammer
>>>> shank so you are not trashing the pinning while you are SURFACING/FILING
>>>> the hammer, (the shape was originally made by the moulding, underfelt,

>>>> felt skivinging and the caul that it was pressed in!).

>>>> That, imo, is the correct/only way to do it. An additional final
>>>> surfacing can be done with 3/8" wide, 180-240 grit, packing tape backed
>>>> sandpaper strips, in the angled sections and a 2" wide strip of similar
>>>> backed/grit for the straight hammers section(s)(upper treble). If you do
>>>> it this way, it should not take more than 45 minutes to do the whole
>>>> set. BTW, Take that sucker outside so's you're not getting hammer fuzz
>>>> all over your clients house. AND, wear a mask please!

>>>What you describe here is what I've done in the past, and have been
>>>unhappy with...tedious and imprecise at the impact point. Just looking
>>>for a better system, but to be clear, the whole hammeris being filed,
>>>not just the strike point.
>>>
>>>Jim Ialeggio
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Captain of the Tool Police
>> Squares R I
>> gpianoworks.com
>


Captain of the Tool Police
Squares R I
gpianoworks.com

[Al Guecia/Allied PianoCraft]

Joe, I will try that on my next vertical. I'm sure it will make a big difference.

Al -
High Point, NC

[Joe Goss]

Hi Joe,
Two questions
What drill do you use to get the correct taper for the lead plugs?
Do you have a jig for weighing off the keys outside of the piano or is this
a feely thing?

[Joseph Garrett]

Al,
MAJOR!<G> You won't recognize it as the same piano.
Best,
Joe
P.S.
I use the Fandrich/Rhodes setup.

-----Original Message-----
>From: Al Guecia/Allied PianoCraft <alliedpi...@hotmail.com>
>Sent: Sep 10, 2013 6:08 AM
>To: pian...@googlegroups.com

>Subject: Re: [pianotech] Keys at rest
>
>Joe, I will try that on my next vertical. I'm sure it will make a big difference.
>
>Al -
>High Point, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>On Sep 9, 2013, at 10:50 PM, Joseph Garrett <joega...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>

[Joseph Garrett]

Joe,
The holes are not tapered! The Lead is!<G> I drill with brad point drill bits. I use a scrap hardwood block clamped to the drill table to back the drilling process. I prefer for the drill brad point to exit the other side of the key stick, but not the hole. Set the stop to accomplish that. I drill 1/64" undersize...i.e.if I'm drilling for a 3/8 lead slug, I use a 23/64" drill bit. I use either/or the compound plier, lead extractor/inserter from Renner, (Chris Robinson design). And, of course it is highly modified with a round headed inserter bolt! Or, I have used a special star punch that I got from Piano Tech that has to be greatly modified to work consistently! (Do you see a trend here?<G>)
For weighing each individual key, I use the Fandrich/Rhodes set up in "reverse".<G> It depends on the type of wood used in the keys as to the TARE used. I.E. in a Sugar Pine key I weigh the key with the lead slug to read 5 grams, (approx.), back weight. Mark the key side with a vertical pencil mark as to the location of the lead slug. After drilling and insertion of the slug, (pre-expansion), I recheck the back weight. It will be some where around 2-3grams. I'm good with that. More or less and I have to get creative.<G> Note: Do Not use the cutsie little lead slugs with the aluminum push pin in it that was sent with the kit! Use the slug you intend for that key! All lead slugs are not created equal! O.k...drill the hole at the location of the pencil line, centered on the key stick. Varify with the lead slug and then press fit the slug. Swedge the lead slug so that it's TIGHT into the hole, but not so tight that it splits the key! DAMHIK! I test the tightness by striking my work bench with the key flat end a couple of times. If the slug moves give it a bit more swedging, with a hand punch or whatever does the job. (You could actually use a large screwdriver to give it a bit more expansion=X.) Basswood keys react differently than Sugar Pine keys in relationship to density/weight of the drill out.
Oh, WEAR gloves, goggles And a Mask! You can assimilate the lead through your pores and lungs. Long sleeved shirt, etc. is a good idea. Vacuum a lot. There will be lead powder! Be safe people.<G>
Finally, make sure all of the keys are properly eased to their respective pins, etc.
NOW, you've got the whole action regulation foundation!<G> It usually takes the better part of a day to do a set. Well worth it imo.
Oh, I use most sizes of lead slugs. The most common are the 3/8", 1/2" & 5/8". I do use the 1/4" ones to fine tune if I'm being ultra anal.<G>
I usually don't judge until I've completely regulated the action. As in the Everett, the final regulation was way different then the original "samples". Reason? The dampers were lifting wayyyy early. I set the dampers to lift at the last 1/3rd of the key stroke. That made a huge difference. Still had sufficient clearance of the damper felt at after touch. (key on punching..lightly)
Hope that clarifies,

Joe

-----Original Message-----
>From: Joe Goss <ima...@gmail.com>
>Sent: Sep 10, 2013 8:01 AM
>To: pian...@googlegroups.com
>Subject: Re: [pianotech] Keys at rest
>

>Hi Joe,
>Two questions
>What drill do you use to get the correct taper for the lead plugs?
>Do you have a jig for weighing off the keys outside of the piano or is this
>a feely thing?

[Terry Farrell]

Question for Joe Garrett. Anyone else that is moved to provide input, please feel free.....

Hi Joe,

I've always also thought that it only makes sense for vertical piano keys to at least be slightly back-weighted - or if they are front heavy, only a little such that the weight of the wippens alone will make the back of the keys rest on the backrail cloth.

So is your bottom line to position lead on the back side of the keys such that there is a 5 gram backweight? I guess any more than that would only be done if the touchweight were still too light after the addition of the 5 gram backweight - yes?

I started regulating a studio upright that has unweighted keys. All the keys are front-heavy. With things that way, it seems next to impossible to set lost motion (IT NEVER HAS LOST MOTION - KEYS FOLLOW WIPPENS!) and to level keys. I want to give this key backweighting a try.

Thanks.

Terry Farrell

[lcl...@yahoo.com]

Old player piano keys are, of course, slightly front weighted. (Makes 'em fun to watch!) Thumpe Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPad

---

From: Terry Farrell <mfar...@tampabay.rr.com>;
To: <pian...@googlegroups.com>;
Subject: [pianotech] Vertical Key Backweight - was: Keys at rest
Sent: Fri, Sep 13, 2013 9:02:54 PM

[David Kroenlein]

Good idea for speed, but hard to tell if hammers are square with strings

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 8, 2013, at 7:16, Isaac OLEG <isaac...@gmail.com> wrote:

[Joseph Garrett]

That's what God gave you eyes for! Sheesh!

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: David Kroenlein
Sent: May 26, 2014 2:10 PM
To: "pian...@googlegroups.com"
Subject: Re: [pianotech] filing upright hammers, at strike, on-site

Good idea for speed, but hard to tell if hammers are square with strings

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 8, 2013, at 7:16, Isaac OLEG wrote:
>
>
>
>>

[David Kroenlein]

Haha!! Very true!  Its easier for me in the piano

Sent from my iPhone

[Joseph Garrett]

That tool can do it that way too.<G> However, the clean up is easier OUT of the piano imo. Different strokes sort of thang.<G>

Best,

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: David Kroenlein
Sent: May 26, 2014 6:14 PM
To: "pian...@googlegroups.com"
Subject: Re: [pianotech] filing upright hammers, at strike, on-site

Haha!! Very true! Its easier for me in the piano

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 26, 2014, at 18:54, Joseph Garrett wrote:
>
> That's what God gave you eyes for! Sheesh!
> Joe
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Kroenlein
> Sent: May 26, 2014 2:10 PM
> To: "pian...@googlegroups.com"
> Subject: Re: [pianotech] filing upright hammers, at strike, on-site
>
> Good idea for speed, but hard to tell if hammers are square with strings
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Sep 8, 2013, at 7:16, Isaac OLEG wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>
>
> Captain of the Tool Police
> Squares R I
> gpianoworks.com