Regi,
Thanks for the post in this regard. However, that is really not a fair "comparison" since you didn't just change out the hammers. The WNG system is way stiffer than a wooden system, therefore the sound will be different just for that reason. I've done experiments with hex shanks as opposed to round shanks, (both wood). That gave a much brighter tone just with the hex shanks. So with the ultimately stiffer carbon fiber, spindly shanks I would expect even more brightness than either of those even while using the same hammers.<G>
I have heard two, brand new, identical Mason and Hamlin grands, one with Renner parts and the other with WNG parts. Since the pianos were side by side, I was able to really feel and hear the difference of those two items. The WNG was not to my liking. The touch was brittle and tiring to play. The tone was brighter on the WNG piano. Of course, no two pianos are ever really exactly the same, so even that was not an absolutely perfect comparison.
All interesting stuff though.<G>
Best,
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: Regi Hedahl
Sent: Oct 9, 2015 1:33 PM
To: pianotech
Subject: [pianotech] Renner vs. Ronsen hammer comparison
It has been pretty quiet around here so I put together a recording so you can hear the difference between the Renner Blue and Ronsen Wurzen hammers on a 1978 Steinway B. While changing over to the Ronsen hammers, I also installed a set of WNG action parts. Other changes included bringing down the hammer weights as much as possible and removing nearly 5 lbs of lead out of the keysticks. The Renner hammers I took off had very little use.You can skip to 1:55 to hear the Ronsen hammers if you wish.
Regi,
The consistency of parts is the big thing that all strive for. It does take a lot out of the job of getting a consistent touch. Pretty much puts the only variable down to the hammers themselves. If you have some of the hammers left from the new set and the old set of hammers, plus a few extra shanks and flanges you could do some more definitive comparisons now that the action is up and running.
It is sad that the piano is being flogged by ingrates and hacks.<G> It sounds like the piano is too big for the room it is in. If it's in a school situation, see if you can find a less powerful piano and swap them out.<G>
I had a similar situation in a college setting that has created a new set of problems....1. Everyone is fighting to get time on the newly rejuvenated piano and 2. the class room is now too small for the power achieved. Alas, it is a nice dilemma though.<G>
Best,
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: Regi Hedahl
David,
No where in that blurb, was Chickering considered the "go to" piano. The whole thing was the excess of Marketing B.S. That has prevailed within our industry for oh so long.<G>
The action of the Chickering was not given any merit, but was, actually, lamented as being substandard. (If I read it right.<G>)
One of my best remanufactured instruments is an 1867 Chickering 8', flat strung. The Brown action was the main issue and went immediately into the garbage can. With a modern, rib crowned soundboard, a modified Renner action w/appropriate Ronsen hammers and a highly modified Clemson, (Pratt-Read), back action, it is a great instrument.
BUT, it isn't a Chickering anymore! Thank god!<G>
How Chickering snookered anyone into awarding them a Gold Medal for that year of instrument is beyond me. (I suspect overly zealous marketing and perhaps some well place Francs did the trick.<G>)
There were other manufacturers through the years that went head to head with S&S. Most were good pianos, but lacked the marketing skills of the Steinways, so wound up second or ??? Weber and M & H come to mind.
Best,
Joe
David,
Very eloquent! I would totally agree with that! It has been my experience as well.
Best Regards,
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: David Love
Sent: Oct 11, 2015 8:36 AM
To: pianotech
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Renner vs. Ronsen hammer comparison
Try using a set of Ronsen Wurzen with my profile (low profile) on the next D (or B for that matter). The Wurzen felt has a bit more power than the Weickert. I have found them to be very stable and close to ready out of the box. On occasion I have had to slightly harden the top end but most of the time not. If so use the Pianotek lacquer, 20-30% solution. One application only. It remains relatively flexible but will stiffen the felt some.The most stable hammer will be the one that has the most resilience that is achieved with the least amount of manipulation--i.e. is most springlike. In a D (especially a heavy use D) you will need both resilience and some stiffness to produce adequate power. The Wurzen felt in this profile (and with the Ronsen process) will provide both resilience necesssary for stability and longevity and power. Less manipulation (lacquer or needles) preserves the internal tension of the hammer and maintains a higher coefficient of restitution (the hammer returns to its original shape after compression). Heavy needling and lacquer reduce the restorative capacity of the hammer. Needling becomes more and more a matter of just altering the hammer density so that after a few blows it simply packs back down--the hammer loses all capacity to return to its original form after compression. Lacquer reduces the springlike quality of the felt and you are ultimately left with a hammer that you can only voice by density manipulation as well. Over time the integrity of the felt is compromised by excessive needing and the hammer has less and less stability. Voicing should ideally be a matter of manipulating spring stiffness, not felt density, but sometimes it can't be avoided due to the character of the hammer. One of the interesting benefits of very resilient hammers (with properly proportioned stiffness and weight) is that you can achieve brightness without harshness--a rare thing these days. A more resilient hammer will give you a broader spectrum that expands through the dynamic range--more color.
On Saturday, October 10, 2015 at 7:16:07 AM UTC-7, ed foote wrote:Greetings,
The Renner Blues are the most durable hammers I have used, so far. I have seen them in practice rooms for years. The pianos that are used in concert are the same pianos that are used all day, every day, for rehearsals, Suzuki accompaniment, warm-ups, and everything else that crosses the stage. Then wheeled out in front of an audience for performance. The Renners allowed me to get by with voicing right before the performance, but I had to do it each time. I think it would be a luxury to have a performance piano that was reserved for just that, but these are workhorses that have to masquerade as thoroughbreds on weekends. Trying to find a balance led me to the Blues, and it seemed to do it. I have a set in one of our D's and it is side by side with some 7 year old factory rocks in another. Half the users go for the more well-needled Renners, half for the sturm & drang of Steinway hardness. Factory hammers sound great,but I haven't' been able to keep them voiced after three or four years in the trenches.
Budget wants me to keep a set in for 6 years, so in the last year or so they start getting fast and light. When a hammer is nearing the end, it has to be brighter than I like, as I haven't found a way to keep the clang out of the sound at mf without killing the whole thing. Since it is a school piano, no one gets to really say, so I am left in the middle. Some faculty love the lightness and brilliance and tell me to keep it up, others begin asking when we can soften it. Most of us CAUT's know what it is like to be in the sling where those two curves cross. And THEN, when new hammer day arrives, and everybody has to adjust….
I am too old to ever be a great voicer, but it is always surprising to me what individuals hear. The latest artist here chose the brighter piano,( I found out that night why, a touch so sensitive that it made Bach's music sound like it was being played on an organ! ), and, out of all sorts of un-tended-to zingers, brassy spots, and stand-outs on the una corda, stuff I would normally deal with, she only asked that A4 not be quite as bright. A4 had neighbors that were worse, but that is what was bothering her in her program. Chopstick for 20 seconds and no more problems.
I am considering going with the Ronsen special felt for the next set on a D. The sets in the practice room look like they are holding up very well. It concerns me that they won't have the attack needed right out of the box, and someone will lean on me to dope them, which changes the whole long-term voicing picture. Ideally, we would have the piano played all summer, then see if it could hit the stage without the lacquer.
Ed Foote RPT
-----Original Message-----
From: David Boyce <Da...@piano.plus.com>
To: pianotech <pian...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Sat, Oct 10, 2015 1:52 am
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Renner vs. Ronsen hammer comparison
On 10/10/2015 04:11, Joseph Garrett wrote:> you have to deal with theacademic mindset otherwise known as Steinwayitis where nothing "less" would beallowed or used. Pity.Concert pianist Steven Houghhas a great essay on hisblog, about the near-demise of Bechstein and the rise of Steinway, herehttp://www.stephenhough.com/writings/selective/berceuse-bechstein.phpBestregards,David Boyce.
#1 11-12 mm
#26/27 9-10 mm
#40 7-8 mm
#55 5-6 mm
#70 4-5 mm
#88 3-4 mm
Generally my target has been the smaller number. If the sheet is particularly dense then a slightly higher number can be targeted. There is no underfelt after about note C64.
Generally I've found the Wurzen felt a bit firmer providing a bit more power. I use light maple molding on the hammers which allows one to achieve a fairly low strike weight if that's your target. If you want a higher strike weight then less tapering and adding weight with lead solder as usual. The D generally wants a bit higher SW but not necessarily in the high treble. My strike weight curve for most Steinways runs from about 11 grams to about 5.5 grams, depending on the action ratio, of course. The D hammer should be a bit heavier, maybe 12.5 grams to about 6 grams, again action ratio dictates what you can actually use.. You can see I'm not adding that much more in the treble and more importantly not through having more felt.
This highly resilient felt made this way will require no lacquer, or very little and only in the upper end. That adds to longevity. They will develop some, as all hammers do, but need little needling, except at the surface, which only adds to their longevity and stability.
David Love