Iron Man Helmet Inside View

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Oliverio Gallman

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Aug 4, 2024, 4:16:36 PM8/4/24
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Iwill soon order a bunch of electronic stuff to get started on arduino and I have two projects in mind. One is absolutely insane and might take more than a year and the "easy" one is the one I will be talking about now.

My problem is the display, I originaly wanted to use a viewfinder for each eye but they are quite hard to find and also expensive. So I thought about using mini displays and a lens but this might be way too difficult. I also thought using a HUD, it could be fairly easy to "project" what the infrared cam sees to get a mixed view but I don't want to have a tank on my head. I searched to transparent displays but they are also hard to find, in fact the only one I found is not made anymore and it would be hard to focus on a screen a few centimeters away from the eye and stuff that is meters away.


So I need your advices, the absolute best would be viewfinder so if you have links to buy some for cheap im taking and if you think another option could be used well I would be very happy to hear about it. By the way I browsed the internets for a few hours before asking here.


I used Adobe Flash as my base.

It takes the environments webcam and uses it for a 'real-time' display of whatever the webcam sees.

Doing this in flash also allowed me to over-lay any data/graphics/effects over the webcam feed.


(but both of these I have zero experience with).. for my project is was crucial that the 'board' I was planning on using support the Flash Player plugin... but I could never get a solid answer from the pcDuino forums (so the project died)


The optics is the tough part for a proper HUD. You need to have the focus distance for the screen to be 5ft to infinity. Bouncing it off an angled reflector which is also transparent is not hard to conceptualize but the optical parts are not available as easily as buying a transistor.


A camera viewfinder is one possibility. If you can set up your data as a video overlay and there's a camera in the helmet providing your forward view, it's all possible. You can buy the viewfinder optics quite easily for just a few bucks on eBay and then use any small TFT screen as your video display.


But if this is just cosplay, then others need to see that your helmet is doing something. You don't actually need to read the data from inside the helmet do you? A small projector shining the numbers onto your face is going to look like the movies. (How do you think Hollywood does it?)


From what I've read on the subject, a HUD type display can be done with some sort of transparent sheet to reflect the image of an OLED in a way which superimposes the image over the actual scene. I believe the OLED display is often above the user's head.


With LEGO doubling down on creating sets for adult fans, and expanding beyond play sets, 2020 has seen a number of new concepts roll out to fans such as these buildable LEGO helmets, which have taken on iconic Star Wars characters, and now, Marvel studios with the LEGO Iron Man helmet.


As a pop culture (and more importantly superhero) aficionado, I was intrigued by these and picked up a few of them in a recent LEGO sale to review and for display purposes, so read on to see what I think of 76165 Iron Man Helmet!


Firstly, stickers are used for the eyes, which has a blue border around the white sections. The eyes are a little too recessed for me, although I do like the technique employed to achieve the look. It just looks a little too dark for the effect to be prominent enough.


When you look closer, the flaws start to materialise and you start realising that the shape is off in many different ways. It feels almost distorted, and when you compare it against the helmet shape from the movie which has a very distinct, sleek look, the more it looks less like it.


Earlier this month some cool visual effects deconstructions from Iron Man 3 showed how intricate and artificial some of the scenes in the film were, even revealing effects where it appeared there weren't any (which is the idea). Now a cool new featurette focuses on the heads-up display that we see inside the Iron Man helmet. Most of the time, the cuts are so brief it's hard to soak in all the details that Tony Stark sees inside his helmet when communicating with Jarvis about his suit and systems. It just goes to show you how much time, manpower and detail goes into the visual effects that may be taken for granted. Watch below!


EVO RS9 sunvisor motorcycle helmet IRON JET YELLOW PSB safety Approved (LTA street legal motorcycle helmet) is a new updated premium high quality open face sunvisor helmet with central aerodynamic features. EVO RS9 sunvisor helmet is the upgraded version of the popular EVO RS959 helmet.




EVO RS9 sunvisor helmet IRON JET YELLOW has a huge central air intake which has additional hidden eyebrow intake vents duct. The difference between EVO RS9 and EVO RS959 is that RS9 has real air vent holes drilled through the ABS shell unlike EVO RS 959 which does not have real airflow inside the helmet.




EVO RS9 sunvisor helmet IRON JET YELLOW visor rotation mechanism has multiple solid detents for rider to adjust up/down. It is convenient for you to lift or push down the face shield visor exactly to different angles that you want. There are at least five different angles you can position your face shield visor according to your likes.


The advantages of gear-based visor mechanism are stability and precise positioning because sometimes when you are riding, you would like to lift the face shield up a little bit to let in some cool air flowing to your face.


EVO RS9 sunvisor helmet inner sunvisor height is high enough to cover until just above your nose bridge. The inner sunvisor switch is simple and hold up inner sunshade with a simple up/down lever mechanism.




The dark tint of the inner sunshade is just right, dark enough to block out the sunlight. Unlike some other sunvisor helmet where the sunshade is lightly tinted for eg KYT VENOM helmet sunvisor which are too light tinted to block out sunlight.


EVO RS9 sunvisor helmet IRON JET YELLOW has flair and style with top grade fabrication. EVO RS9 sunvisor helmet has a proportion outlook that is neither too bulky nor too long. Moreover its contour and symmetry are perfectly just right which is almost similar to SHOEI JFORCE 4 helmet outline.




#Please note that due to nature of photographic differences and monitor color hue saturation differences, there will be slight variation of the color that you receive --Please do not expect exact color in the pictures --Thank you for your understanding




So, I couldn't find any eclipse glasses, but I couldn't let that stop me. The essence of MacGyvering is overcoming obstacles with whatever you have at hand. I hacked together a TV remote control, a bottle cap, and an auto-darkening welding helmet to make a capable and safe eclipse viewer.


The basic principle of this thing is to used the pulsed infrared light from a cheap remote control to "trick" a normally automatic welding helmet into being a useful viewer for solar eclipses or other super bright stuff.


In this Instructable, I spent some time packing information into the images. Be sure to see the annotations on the images for extra details, ideas, and facts useful to any aspiring MacGyver types.


I have mixed feelings about the way that so much tutorial content has become video-based, but in this case, I felt it was useful and afforded some good opportunities to teach. For example, in the video I use a custom infrared viewer to show exactly what the remote is doing in the infrared. Enjoy.


Pour some alcohol on the paper towel and clean your helmet. You should do this even if it's a new helmet - it may have oily residue from manufacturing. Mine was filthy from years of welding and grinding.


You only need to clean the area where you are going to stick the remote control. If you were in a tight spot and didn't have alcohol or a paper towel, you could use the condensation from your breath, and the cleanest part of your shirt or pants to clean as well as you could.


As demonstrated in the video, the pulsed infrared light from the remote causes the helmet's window to darken. Glue the remote on the side with hot glue, close to the IR sensors on the front of the helmet. This will make it easy to bounce the infrared light over to the sensors. The cap basically serves as a little "light dome" that contains and bounces the infrared signal over to the infrared sensor.


Tip: If you have a surface that doesn't want to be glued with hot glue (like aluminum, for instance), you can make things work much better by preheating the surface. By putting the aluminum in an oven, heating it with a torch, or even leaving it out in the sun, you can make it possible to glue with hot melt adhesives.


If you didn't have a cap, there are still many ways to direct light from the remote. You could use a bit of mirror from a makeup compact. You could use a piece of broken glass as a light-pipe. You could also use the bottom of a soda can, cut with a swiss army knife. ;) There is nothing essential about the bottle cap.


If you don't have a remote at all, you can still test or trigger the auto darkening lens for a brief time. Use a lighter, or matches, or anything that can make a spark. You can even use the face proximity sensor on your smartphone (which is usually near the selfie camera). Anything that makes a pulsed or random IR signal will work.


These kinds of caps are typically made of polyethylene, which transmits some light in the near infrared (750-1400nm). This cap is white, meaning it is probably tinted with titanium dioxide, which is reflective in the near infrared. You can find polyethylene everywhere - hula hoops, cutting boards, bottle caps, car parts, pillow filler... it's an incredible material that has a lot of nice properties. You can bend and form it with a heat gun. It's lubricious, easy to cut and shape, and cheap. It can even be blended with synthetic waxes to make machinable wax. Heat up a soda bottle cap with a lighter or heat gun and jam it under that uneven table leg. It will fill the gap and prevent the table from rocking.

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