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[Agenor Ramadan]

Thesnow has finally left and I have started working on my 504. I am working on the hydralics now. I have drained all the fluid and want to flush it out, about a quart of water came out when I pulled all the plugs and plates on the bottom and the fluid was very creamy looking. I have heard some mention flushing with diesel on here, is that my best choice?

Is there any way to stop the water buildup in the system? I am going to try to clamp a rubber shield around the shifter shaft and replace the gasket under the housing. I am hoping the water was coming in around the shifter as that seems the most obvious.

After I pulled the plates on the bottom I looked up into the trans and all looked good no rust and didnt see much wear, there was a small amount of sludge on the rear end plug but it wasnt metal just seemed like sludge. I ended up ordering the hydraulic line that goes from the pump housing to the diverter valve, that ones alittle pricey but the last one lasted 40 years so hopefully the new one will also.

does not hold much oil ,just clean it out good ,then put in new oil and run it until hot and change a 2nd time with filter and it will be okay . easiest way to keep water out is to keep tractor inside ,it seems all old tractors leak water into the diff/trans when kept outside.

HELLO JOHN504D, I WOULD DO THE SHORT RUN AND CHANGE OIL & FILTER A SECOND TIME TO BE SAFE IF IT WERE MINE. ONE THING I FOUND HELPS IS TO TAKE OUT ALL OF THE PLATFORM BOLTS AND PUT SOME RTV SEALANT ON THE UNDERSIDE OF BOLTHEAD AND PLATFORM AREA WHERE THEY MEET. HOPE THIS HELPS. BOOMER

Just ad Sea Foam this is what it is for . Read the can , they turned me on to it and its many uses . you can put it in the fuel tank as a injecter cleaner and also in the oil as a crank case cleaner.

If you simply drain well and reflill, then use the tractor, making sure to get the oil good and hot for at least an hour or so, you should bake out the residual moisture. THF has additives that are designed to deal with small amounts of moisture. The tribologists that design the oil know how tractors are used!

I think I am going to use alittle bit of all your suggestions. It only takes 12 gallons of fluid so I am going to fill it with generic fluid and add the sea foam run it for awhile then change it out with another set of filters and fill with Hy tran. The fluid from auto zone says it meets the hy tran specs but who knows. The closest I can get hy tran is 2 hours away so I will have to make a trip out to get it in a few weeks.

I read the info on the sea foam website and it seems like it cleans and dissapates water so I dont think it will hurt to run it, hopefully it will clean out the system. I had to remove and disassemble the flow control valve cause it was stuck in the center position and I couldnt turn the wheels so a good cleaning should do the system good. Thanks again, John

The 504 is back from its longgg 5 year nap. I changed out the fluids and filters added the seafoam fired it up and the hydraulics worked nicely. I am gonna run it for awhile them change them out again. The glow plugs still worked and she fired right up. I even took it for a drive around the back lot. It definetely isnt the prettiest tractor around but it very useable. I need to replace the bucket on the loader now and have the seat recovered. Thanks for everyones help. Take care, John

Complain about the cost of the old Hy-Tran. Complain that they changed it. Complain about the smell of the new stuff. Complain. Complain. Complain. Just use your yellow bucket 303 line flush and find something different to complain about...

Before I get on too much of a rant, my limited experience with the new Shell Hy-Tran Premium (that's the new name), is positive. When I bought it last year it was a bit less expensive than the old Ultraction.

Oil really doesn't affect pumps like it does on clutch friction discs I always use Hytran always will it has the additives for modern tractors and keeping rubber parts pliable Stay away from off brands that don't offer these protections

I had to go 4 hours away but our barrels are full of the Viscosity Ultraction. Not sure if it's worth sticking with it or switching to the new hytran. We're hoping someone closer will eventually start handling Viscosity

What makes you think the new oil is inferior? The old Viscosity blended oil better? how did you come up with that conclusion? I would think the oils were formulated by these companies with the direction and cooperation of engineers from IH and later Case Fait or whatever name that company has ? The formula Viscosity used was property of who? I assume Case Ih has the formula and Shell is using it with improvements with Shell and Fiat engineers. To me assuming the new oil is a lesser blend doesn't make sense ( Shell makes quality oil ). If someone actually has proof it is a poor oil I would like to hear it?️( I am not saying I am right BTW but I like facts not hearsay or opinions) Its common for manufacturing of all kinds to change suppliers and not compromise quality

I have no comment as to how good the Shell sourced Hytran is compared to the Viscosity product. But one critical difference is that the Shell product is a zinc free formulation. This means there cannot be ZDDP in it. I do not know whether the phosphate portion of ZDDP is still being used or if this oil has also eliminated the phosphate part of the compound as well. It is possible for an oil to use the phosphate antiwear compound with something other than zinc as a carrier. ZDDP has long been regarded as an excellent antiwear additive, but there are environment concerns about both zinc and phosphates in the event of a major spill.

Not that phosphates should be allowed to readily enter a watertable but they have been an environmental bogeyman for decades now. They were a major ingredient in laundry detergent decades ago and therefore on the radar of the EPA.

I have seen test results of the amount of water that the new Shell-formulated Hytran can tolerate, versus the amount that Viscosity Oil formulated Ultraction (their name for the classic Hytran we all know & love) can tolerate. The Viscosity oil is as good as it ever was in regards to its water tolerance. The new Shell formulated stuff, is lackluster at best, it had a very poor water tolerance when compared with the Viscosity product.

I don't know what a gallon of the new Shell/CNH Hytran is, but I can tell you, that a gallon of the Viscosity Ultraction is considerably less than the CNH stuff! In fact, its less than what it was last priced at back when CNH's oil supplier was Viscosity! Eliminate the middle man, and the cost savings can be passed on to the consumer.

Get ready for sticker shock buying oil this year , I buy bulk because of better pricing (hopefully) and free delivery but the engine oil from Deere 15w-40 was running around 25.00 a gal and hygard was 23.00 a gal About the same price per gal on Shell Rotella also we use in our large trucks

Well, that is an advantage when not selling through the regional mega dealer such as what we have here. More body's have to take a bite out of that 5 gallon pail or 55 gallon drum of oil than mom and pop did.

i am building a hydraulic press with a 20 ton air-over hydraulic bottle jack. i am making the press so that it can have interchangeable dies. I was planning on starting out with two sets, a "flat" set and a drawing set. The flat set till be just that, flat rectangular stock with the edged broken. Then a drawing set where the edges will have a significant radius to them.

sounds good you will end up building more dies at some point but that's a good start and the softer the steel the more often you will need to resurface them but i wouldn't bother hardening them ather so use the 41xx stuff for durability

I've been making a mess of die for my press, but the ones that spend 90% of the time on it are my combo flat drawing dies. My dies are 6" wide with a 3/8" base. The combo has a piece of 3/4" x 3" x 6" mounted so 1.5" is overhanging the sides on the back side of the die, I have a C frame press. I then have a 3/4" square bar 3" long butted up against the flat side to act as the drawing die. Much nicer than swapping dies during a heat.

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