Scratch Finger Driver
Zoraida
I have a few scratches that do catch on my fingernail, doesn't feel like it is real deep when I go over them. I was just wondering if the SSR with the green pad would be aggressive enough to remove these scratches or do I need to wet sand them first? Thanks for any suggestions.
If the scratches aren't very deep, polishing will round the edges and make them so much less visable they will be all but gone. However, if you can catch your finger nail on them the only practical way to completely remove them is by wet sanding.
I feel your pain bro, I recently was playing a course that was pretty wet in spots and found myself hitting a ball with my 3 wood that was above my feet and just tough lie in general. The bummer for me was that it was in the fairway!! Anyways, my ball was dirty and my swing left marks on the crown.
This is the ticket. Just don't go cheap on the compound you choose. I had some serious scratches on a driver I purchased used - included some "idiot marks". (I saw them all in the images and it was cheap so...)
I read online that rubbing compound buffed out and then followed by some carnuba wax would take care of it. Because the scratches were a bit deep I ended up also using a little touch up paint. In the end they were barely visible and the whole thing cost under $20 plus a little elbow grease.
You guys fail to realize that the scratches are more than likely in the sealer (clear lacquer or polyurethane plastic) and NOT into a paint and only requires sanding/buffing. Especially with today's carbon crowns.
4) IF your scratches are deeper than the clear finish, with the area taped off, use an automotive spray paint that matches your club head color. After the paint dries, add a second coat if any scratches are THAT deep.
5) Once dry, apply a clear coat spray finish, let dry, apply a second (and/or third coat), let dry and again sand with 600-grit sandpaper, wipe and check to match the rest of the club. Then apply a good rubbing compound and buff until it shines like new!
Wet sand with 1000g paper, 2000g paper and finally 3000g 3M Trizact. Spray the water on the paper, not the club, with a few drops of detergent in the spray bottle as a lubricant to prevent the paper from clogging. Do it by hand only. Then rub it out starting with heavy cut compound, then light cut compound, finish it off with polish. If I had that much area to do on my car I'd complete it in less than an hour. The main PITA is that you'll have to buy at least twenty times the amount of compound and polish that you need, but then you'll have it on hand if you do need to use it on your car.
If you're a player who tends to hit a hook, first count yourself fortunate. A hook is the last stop on the road to a good golf swing, and you're very close to hitting consistent, powerful shots. But it's still a ball-flight problem you need to take care of to make that next step and become a scratch or near-scratch player.
A strong grip is by far the most common error I see with players who curve the ball too much from right to left. The right hand drifts to the right--away from the target--and moves underneath the club, as shown in the photograph below. With the right hand in this position, it will tend to turn over too much through impact. Because the position of the right palm roughly replicates the clubface, it's easy to see why this turning over of the right hand causes the clubface to close and the ball to curve left.
To calm that hook down to a manageable draw, adjust your right hand to a more neutral position, as I'm demonstrating above. Turn it toward the target, so you can't see your left thumb when you've made your completed grip. I also like to put my right index finger in a "trigger" position under the handle, which supports the club through the swing. If the finger wraps around the grip too much, the club tends to get loose at the top.
When I'm out doing a speaking engagement, or just talking to a golf fan at a course somewhere, the first question I almost always get is, "What was it like to work with Tiger Woods?" I had an incredible opportunity to be with Tiger for six years, from 2004 to 2010. I got to see arguably the best player of all time at the highest level, and be a part of everything that went with it--good and bad. I have a lot of memories from those experiences. I spent a ton of time with Tiger, both inside the ropes at tournaments and working on his game back in Florida.
I think it's a fascinating and valuable story to share. That's why I wrote The Big Miss. I'm in a unique position to shed some light on why he's been so dominant and why he's struggled at certain points. I also know first-hand the challenges any coach would be confronted with when working with the world's best. I got to live a part of golf history, and I wanted to share it.
The easiest way to picture it is to compare it to the opposite problem: a slicer coming over the top. In that move, the player swings the club down from the outside on a steep angle. Getting stuck is coming from too far inside and behind the body. The upper body obstructs or interferes with the club's path to the ball.
The most common reason players get stuck is, they don't keep the arms and club in front of the chest as they turn back and through. When the club trails the upper body on the way down, the hands have to flip the clubhead over to recover. Hello, hook.
I had my car tinted yesterday with Formula One Pinnacle tint. My rear window has tons of scratches and swirls. I took my finger to see if it was something other than a scratch and it didn't go away. I called the installer and he told me that they can be swirls, to wait a few days to see if it goes away and to call him if back if they don't. Is this normal and goes away after a few days or a week? These guys left a squeegee in my car and cut a part of my driver window seal. I'm definitely not happy with the quality of their work.
$350....was this a strip and retint job? what kind of car is this.? let me see the the door seal your talking about. for that price, it should be a perfect job, but it reality there will NEVER be the perfect tint job. your going to have specs of dirt here and there and I dont care where you bring it. as far as the swirls, I dont know about that. it may just be a scuff from the rubber squeegee as he was pushing the water out of the bottom of the glass.... and the seals,....well some car seals actually need to be "trimmed" just a lil bit in order for the tint to be tucked behind. as I said, I done know what kind of car it is, or what window it is...sometimes there is a good excuse.
This is on a brand new 09 infiniti g37. I barely had 355 miles on her when I brought it in. I can live with a few scratches but there are scratches from the bottom middle throught the bottom right (Inside looking out) of the back glass. I really hopes it goes away b/c I don't want to get a R&R and I know the installer doesn't either.
The cut seal is on the outside of the Driver window and I can live with that also. I'm not out to screw anyone and I definitely didn't try to get any freebies or a lower price when he gave me a quote.
I took it to another installer of the same franchise. He was able to run his fingernail on one of the scratches. The installer to be came out and noticed where the original installer used the end of the roll on my back glass (that is how he explained it to me). I have an appt tomorrow for a R&R that is covered by warranty. thatsnappyguy is right about nothing is perfect but I can't accept a lot of scratches. I'm glad that the shop will get paid for the R&R. They had an M3 and an M5 in their parking lot that they worked on. I'm confident that they'll do a great job.
The new window film is like night and day. There are some lumps but will go away after a few days. The first install was hazy and blurry. The new film is crystal clear. My hat is off to the installer. He did a GREAT job and I will recommend him on the g37 forums to give them as much business I can. I'll test the defroster early tomorrow morning to make sure he had no problem today.
So I am about 95% sure one of the jackass valet parkers scratched my leather steering wheel with their ring last night. It is right in my line of sight and was big enough to notice by feel. Considering the wheel is 10 yrs old and was perfect, it is really annoying. Any suggestions for repairing scratche/small gouges in a leather steering wheel? I asked one local upholstery guy and he does not do that work. I don't want to go with a leather repair kit per se because I am convinced I would do more damage than good with my middling skills.
Don't ever let a valet touch your car for starters. I have absolute horror stories of what valets (some not all of course) do to cars...............think Ferris Buellers Day Off when they parked the Ferrari.
There is an episode of Wheeler Dealers where they refinish the seat leather on a Bentley. It's all cracked and dry to start with and when they are done it looks brand new. I don't recall what they used but there are products out there. Sorry, to hear about your damage and good luck.
I've actually had darn good luck just rubbing in a leather moisturizing product. It'll help smooth it out and get rid of the bumpy ridges that the scratches might have caused. I use this (very sparingly!) on my coats, shoes, and steering wheels.
Yeah I normally don't valet, but the combo of no parking and pregnant wife made the choice unavoidable. I expected tire wear not steering wheel damage. I will see if one of the suggested leather products helps the cause.
Do you have any friends who are used car dealers? There are experts who run from dealer to dealer or hang out at the auto auctions who can fix interior issues. They generally want to do work that can be done quickly.
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