Airbox Installation

[Adimar Poynter]

Idebated for a while if Iwas just going to do the snorkel delete like I had in the 2005 Elise, modifythe OE airbox, or just go ahead and get the Lotus Cup airbox (P/N ALS3E0157) . I decided to go with the Cup airbox because it wasrelatively cheap and Lotus felt it was worthwhile for their cup car, so itshould be good enough for me. It also provides more filter surface area so ittheoretically should provide better airflow with less dirt. The Cup airbox kitI ordered from Sector111 consisted of the adapter plate, pre-filter part of theairbox, and OE filter. I also opted for the TRD air filter that fits the Cupairbox (P/N PTR05-06990-01).

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Inspired by Schnellvintage's use of an e30 airbox for his EFI conversion, I decided to use the same. I fabbed up a bracket, instead of using e30 sheet metal like he did since I'm not too good at bending and forming steel. I used a flat piece of 3/16" thick aluminum and bent it at the required 20 degrees to fit the three support points on the lid. Instead of the stock rubber isolator on the lower support, I used a 3/4" square piece of urethane. It was easier to fab the support bracket from channel for this shape. Three 3/4" long spacers allowed mounting to the fender skirt with M6 bolts, at the vertical portion. All machining was done with a table saw and hand drill. Drawing attached.

It isn't perfect and may need some reinforcement at the top because the fender does flex a little. The intake is slightly occluded and won't easily accept a bellmouth. Otherwise, it clears everything and lines up square. After a lot of researching airboxes, this one seems like the best fit. I hope this might prove useful to others.

Finally have the weather to get my bike out and do some work on it (I have a 2019 MT-07). First thing was to install the Hordpower airbox. Like many others I tried to just move the throttle bodies out of the way but had to resort to cutting the original airbox into confetti to get it out. I thought the hard part was over. First issue is that the bracket that the airbox screws to will not fit over the gas tank bracket. If I lift the fuel tank, the airbox bracket fits the frame fine but of course the fuel tank bracket can't fit over it. However I wanted to check the rest of the fitment and when I try to get the airbox under the bracket to mount it, the lip of the airbox is resting on the preload adjuster for the rear shock, preventing me from getting the airbox on the mount.

On the Hord filter, the top mount bracket ships upside down, you need to flip it over so the mounting tabs are pointing up.

The tabs on the upper mount attach to the rear bolts on the fuel tank. You may have to spread them open a bit to fit.

Hope this helps.

The pic I attached shows the right side fuel tank bracket while I had the tank set off to the side a bit. It appears the bracket is much bigger. But the bracket for the airbox just barely fits the frame by itself.

Perhaps you could flip the shock around? I don't have the stock shock but my KTech DDS Pro and the Hordpower box don't interfere with each other. I also shortened the boots a little bit between the throttle bodies and airbox/filter but that was for performance rather than for fit.

Nope this is for an MT-07. The issue with the fuel tank bracket is that it is double thickness...the piece that has the black isolator is welded to the inner bracket. Also the inner bracket has a little nub that angles out to make it easier to get the tank on...but that could be ground off. It seems though that the Hord bracket is just wide enough to fit the frame. Even if the fuel tank bracket were just a single piece of metal instead of the two welded together I am not sure the Hord bracket would fit over it...although it might be able to be persuaded to fit.

Made a little bit of headway yesterday. I did find that I hadn't fully seated the ride side throttle body fully and as I cinched down the clamps I guess it popped out and with the cable on that side it was difficult to see. Once I fixed that I could move the intake high enough to clear the shock but I need to make a whole new bracket. Even if the width of the bracket was enough to fit over the fuel tank bracket, it would still not hold the intake high enough to clear the shock. So I am trying to make something with the limited tools that I have. Once I get it done I will post what I came up with. It will be ugly compared to some of the beautiful fab work I have seen other member post here.

Sorry for the multiple posts but I can't attach more than 1 file at a time. You can see the limited space to the frame o the left side but now lots of room above the shock. There is mire space betwern the filter and the frame on the ride side just because of the natural offset the engine has.

I admire your improvising!!! (not sarcasm) Honestly, I've never seen the issues you are experiencing? Granted, I have the older "FZ-07", and it appears the brackets are different on the MT? Based on your last picture, you have more clearance than I do between the shock, and the HPR intake than I do. Mine BARELY clears the shock (I also have a K-Tech rear shock, which could be a factor).... To me, it looks like yours might be a little "too high" over the shock??? I would re-check/verify that both the intake boots are fully engaged, and tight. At the end of this hassle, I promise you it will be worth the effort. For what I've got into my "07", I could have bought an MT-10 .... That being said- the HPR intake was the BEST $300 I've spent on my "07"!!! TOTAL game changer !!!!!!

I admire your improvising!!! (not sarcasm) Honestly, I've never seen the issues you are experiencing? Granted, I have the older "FZ-07", and it appears the brackets are different on the MT? Based on your last picture, you have more clearance than I do between the shock, and the HPR intake than I do. Mine BARELY clears the shock (I also have a K-Tech rear shock, which could be a factor).... To me, it looks like yours might be a little "too high" over the shock??? I would re-check/verify that both the intake boots are fully engaged, and tight. At the end of this hassle, I promise you it will be worth the effort. For what I've got into my "07", I could have bought an MT-10 ">.... That being said- the HPR intake was the BEST $300 I've spent on my "07"!!! TOTAL game changer "> !!!!!!

I also have the Razor Lite ready to install and the Hord intake on the way. Have any pics you can send me on how close the filter is to the shock? Has they ever hit each other while riding? Mine is a 2016 FZ.

I run the K&N "pre-filter/outerware" sock over the HPR intake. I only need to clean the filter once a year (if that). As you can see, I don't have much clearance. I have the K-Tech Razor "R", which uses the same shock body as the Razor "lite". For what is worth, I have the "lite" on my track-only R3. I'm just as happy with the "lite", as I am with the "R" .... Last summer, I broke the bracket that holds the remote reservoir on the bike..... The hose dropped onto my rapidly moving chain, and chewed a hole through the hose!!! Not sure how many laps I turned before it failed? Things got pretty "bouncy" after that ...... That was one of those rare times where I wish I had gotten a black flag .... The "lite" performs nearly the same as the "R", and no hose to fail -

I run the K&N "pre-filter/outerware" sock over the HPR intake. I only need to clean the filter once a year (if that). As you can see, I don't have much clearance. I have the K-Tech Razor "R", which uses the same shock body as the Razor "lite". For what is worth, I have the "lite" on my track-only R3. I'm just as happy with the "lite", as I am with the "R" ">.... Last summer, I broke the bracket that holds the remote reservoir on the bike..... The hose dropped onto my rapidly moving chain, and chewed a hole through the hose!!! Not sure how many laps I turned before it failed? Things got pretty "bouncy" after that ">...... That was one of those rare times where I wish I had gotten a black flag .... The "lite" performs nearly the same as the "R", and no hose to fail ">-

Congratulations on your purchase of the COBB Tuning Mazdaspeed3 SF Airbox! The following instructions will assist you through the installation process. Please read them BEFORE beginning the install to familiarize yourself with the steps and tools needed. If you feel you cannot properly perform this installation, we HIGHLY recommend you take the vehicle to a qualified and experienced automotive technician.

I just got a 2006 CRF-250R and wanted to tinker with taking things apart and putting back together. I'm now to the point where I need to re-attach my airbox to the carb and can't figure out how to get the airbox seated to the carb, my fingers just can't fit in there to push it on correctly. Anyone know of some tricks to making this work?

The easiest way I have found is to have the airbox mounted on the subframe, attach the two lower subframe bolts loosely, then rotate the subframe up. The top of the airboot will catch the top of the carb inlet, then you can pull the tab on the bottom of the airboot from just in front of the frame down spar to seat it on. I use a little silicon spray on the airboot to help it slide on easier, then use a screwdriver to make sure it is seated on all the way around before tightening up the lock screw.

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