Plaster Crack Or Structural Crack

[Ailene Goldhirsh]

Helloall, i am trying to add a sweep as a depth around a structural framing(beam) family for plaster finish. I have already made a structural column with sweep for plaster finish. But i cannot set the sweep with the beam main sweep.

I am modifying the stock structural concrete beam family. If i lock the new sweep with the main beam sweep, the flexing does now work with constraint error. Is there a way to do this where the plaster sweep will follow the beam depth and height as i modify their value!

Yes it worked. also i think the plaster profile i was trying with sweep didn't worked. I tried with extrusion this time with reference plane and parameters. It worked perfectly.

Thanks a million @jay_colcombe

For structural strengthening, especially with respect to horizontal actions (earthquakes), FRCM (Fiber Reinforced Cementitious Matrix) technologies based on carbon or PBO fiber are preferable to structural plaster.

As an alternative to the structural plaster with a mesh, it is possible to use a structural mortar such as MX-PVA Fibre-reinforced with polyvinylalcohol fibers which create a three-dimensional reinforcement inside the matrix. This type of structural plaster does not need the use of connectors.

Request for consent

Pursuant to article 23 of Italian Legislative Decree 196/2003, and article 7 of EU Regulation 2016/679, I hereby declare to have read the above information and to consent to the processing of my personal information or data:

I agree

The site is secure.

The ensures that you are connecting to the official website and that any information you provide is encrypted and transmitted securely.

1. Passive length-tension curves were established for cat soleus muscles that had been immobilized in different positions. Muscles that had been immobilized in the lengthened position showed no difference in their length-tension properties to those of normal muscles. However, those immobilized in the shortened position showed a considerable decrease in extensibility.2. Muscle fibre length, sarcomere length and the total number of sarcomeres along single teased fibres were also determined for muscles immobilized in different positions. Soleus muscles immobilized in the lengthened position were found to have 20% more sarcomeres in series than normal muscles whilst those immobilized in the shortened position had 40% less than normal muscles.3. When the plaster casts were removed from muscles that had been immobilized in the shortened position, the length-tension curves and sarcomere number returned to normal within 4 weeks. Muscles that were immobilized in a shortened position and then immobilized in a second position were found to rapidly adjust to the second position with respect to their passive length-tension properties and sarcomere number.4. A change in the number of sarcomere in series seems to be the way in which the sarcomere length of the muscle is adjusted to its new functional length. The change in the length-tension properties which accompanies a decrease in sarcomere number appears to be the mechanism which prevents the muscle from being overstretched.

My current plan is to use 5/16" x 5 1/8" structural screws (rated as equivalent to a 1/2" lag bolt) to attach the cleats, two per cleat per stud, as shown in the diagram below. (I have not shown the screw details because my Sketchup skills aren't quite there yet.) The structural screws will be countersunk 3/16" since they have a washer head.

2) Can I rely on any of the intervening material to provide any support as far as shear resistance, or do I effectively have about 2 1/2" of unsupported screw? And if the latter, can this possibly hold any significant weight? If not, do I have any options other than a) not doing the project or b) completely ripping out the drywall and lath and plaster to secure the cleats more directly to the studs?

My guess is that the screws you want to use won't work well if the shelves are heavy. The embedment in the stud is too shallow and the screw will flex quite a bit. I think the shaft of the screw is too small for the drywall and plaster to provide much support in shear.

I'd simply strip off the drywall and screw 3/4" plywood on top of the plaster. I'd nail on a pressure treated 2x4 like a base molding so the plywood isn't in contact with the floor, and rest the 4' edge of the plywood on the 2x4 before attaching. This way the weight is carried by the plywood rather than the nails.

With that in place mounting your cleats will be very easy. The plywood will also hold up better than drywall behind the shelves. It's a bit of extra expense and effort but you'll have a very strong and durable and nice looking finished product.

I'm repairing/replacing a lath & plaster external wall in a tenement flat. It has been very badly mould damaged by long term damp, the source of which has now been fixed. The plaster was in very poor condition and most of this has now been removed, however the laths are also rotten. I'm not sure yet if the studs are too.

I'm concerned that if I continue removing all the damaged material, that I might bring the cornicing down (which actually is also damaged) - would that affect how the ceiling is held up? Also the window frame- is that held in place by the material I'm removing?

If so I think I might have to get someone more qualified in.. but would be much better to continue doing it myself. As long as the window frame will hold in place, and the ceiling, then I can continue. Advice much appreciated..

If the lath is rotted the supports are probably also damaged, I would add some temporary support inside by placing a board on the ceiling close to the wall and one on the floor held in by studs wedged in place (nothing nailed the top and bottom boards protect the ceiling and floor). It will take 2 people to do this and add enough supports to make sure if while removing the rotted material your wall will not sag, without support. I have repaired very old homes that the owner was trying to repair some dry rot and when he removed the external siding the roofline dropped almost 4 inches damaging the roof and the plaster inside. Once supports are in place the exterior can be safely removed and any rotten studs can be cut and replaced. When all the work is done the inside temporary studs can be knocked out and used on the next project.

Historic plaster is artwork worth restoring, conserving, and enjoying. As time progresses, materials fail and even the best workmanship will not be able to cope with the ravages of time. When assessing the condition of historic plaster there are several condition factors and workmanship factors to review in order to determine the best course of action.

When assessing historic plaster, there is an important distinction to be made between flat plaster and ornamental plaster. While both ultimately will succumb to the same forces, ornamental plaster requires careful documentation of the designs, spacing, scale, and location in order to allow it to be recreated.

This restoration of a state capitol third floor corridors designed by acclaimed architect Cass Gilbert involved investigation studies of fine art and decorative paint finishes, including murals by noted artist Elmer Garnsey.

John Canning & Co. scheduled all trades and performed specialty contracting to conserve and restore fine-art murals, ornamental plaster, gilding, decorative finishes and the parquet floor of the ornately decorated Cosmos Club ballroom in Washington, DC.

As a conservation studio and restoration contractor, our team of highly skilled craftsmen, artisans, and conservators are experienced in the use of traditional methods and materials. We understand the importance in sharing our expertise and knowledge in our field.

Plaster ceilings are generally more prone to larger area failures compared to wall applications for several reasons. One primary factor is the sustained tensile forces experienced by the layers of plaster, lath, and lath fasteners due to their suspended self-weight from the point of installation onwards. Over time, plaster keys may fracture, separation can occur at the bond line between coats, or lath fasteners may withdraw from supporting structural elements. Initially, failures may begin in small, localized areas without immediate collapse or significant signs of distress. However, detachment of any component within a small area increases stress on perimeter components, leading to potential enlargement of the failure area over time until collapse occurs.

Considering the multitude of potential issues, qualified assessment of existing plaster ceilings is crucial during building renovation or repair projects, especially when they will be disturbed as part of the work or when new suspended ceilings will be added.

Alexandar J. Mlynarczyk, PE, is a senior associate with the Princeton, N.J., office of Wiss, Janney, Elstner (WJE) Associates Inc., specializing in investigation and repair of the building structures. He can be reached at amlyn...@wje.com.

One of the immediate and visible effects of water damage on plaster and stucco is the erosion of aesthetics. These surfaces, known for their smooth and textured finishes, can lose their charm when exposed to water infiltration. Stains, discoloration, and peeling paint become unwelcome guests, transforming once-beautiful walls into eyesores.

While the aesthetic changes are apparent, the more insidious impact occurs beneath the surface. Water, when absorbed by plaster and stucco, compromises their structural integrity. The materials may start to swell, warp, or even crumble over time. This not only weakens the foundation of your walls but also poses a risk to the overall stability of your home.

Water damage creates an ideal breeding ground for mold and mildew. These hidden dangers can thrive in the damp conditions created by water-soaked plaster and stucco. Beyond the damage they cause to the materials, mold and mildew pose serious health risks to the occupants of the home. Respiratory issues and allergies are common consequences of prolonged exposure.

3a8082e126