Equus 3320 Multimeter Manual
Jasmine Lemaitre
The Innova 3320 Auto-Ranging DMM eliminates the need to dial in the correct range when making electronic measurements. Its uses include automotive circuits, breakers, wiring, vehicle battery & charging systems, electrical components, and more.
We proudly present the Innova 3320 Auto-Ranging DMM, your ultimate solution for accurate, efficient diagnostics. The Innova 3320 is a cutting-edge digital multimeter designed to meet the needs of professionals and DIY enthusiasts. Its auto-ranging feature effortlessly selects the appropriate range for your measurements, ensuring precise readings every time. This versatile tool offers numerous functions, including voltage, current, and resistance measurements, as well as continuity testing and diode checking. Trust the Innova 3320 to deliver exceptional performance and reliability for all your electrical testing needs.
Page 1 of 5: Comparison between a dozen inexpensive digital multimeters that are tested for accuracy and features. Tests include common measurements such as voltage, current, resistance, diodes, and LEDs.
I was doing the exact same research last night as my current manual range DMM was confusing the heck out of me (I was getting very different numbers switching between the 10A and mA). I ended up going with the Extech EX330. Seemed to be very well reviewed, especially from Adafruit (they are electronic wizards in my eyes). I'll let you know what I think of it when it arrives on Tuesday.
I was looking at the Equus, but I could not find out the current resolution. It seemed like it would only read in the 10's of milli-amps. I want to be able to measure in the micro-amps, such as the power being used by a microprocessor.
The Equus 3320 digital multimeter is a general-purpose instrument designed for use in general electronics, automotive electronic systems and home electrical applications. The auto-ranging scale eliminates the need to set the correct range when making electronic measurements. It has a large LCD display and a handy color-coded LED display for battery quick check. The protective rubber corner guards for drop protection.
Read your user manual and make sure you understand the dangers involved when working with devices under high voltage. Before every use, inspect the test leads for damage - check for cracked insulation, broken or damaged probes, loose or bent probe pins. Inspect the multimeter for damage to the case. Do not use the instrument, if cracked, distorted, excessively dirty or any abnormal condition exists.
Set the Function/Range switch to the proper range before taking measurements. If the range/function must be switched during a test, remove the test leads from the circuit being measured before switching settings.
If the meter is used near high noise Radio Frequency (RF) generating equipment like spark plug wires, ignition coils or an alternator, the display may become unstable or indicate large errors. If you obtain erratic readings during use, isolate the instrument as far away as possible from these components.
The jack on the left side is the DC 10A input for the red test lead probe connection when measuring high DC currents up to 10 amps. This input is unfused, never use it to measure currents above 10A! The COM Input Jack is placed on the middle. Use this for the black lead only. On the right of the instrument is placed the jack for Volts, mA, OHMS, BAT, DIODE and CONTINUITY for the red probe.
To avoid possible electric shock, instrument or equipment damage, do not attempt to measure voltages above 600V AC/DC. This is the maximum voltage that this instrument is designed to measure. The "COM" terminal potential should not exceed 300V AC/DC measured to ground.
3. Place the red test lead onto the positive (+) side of the item being tested and the black test lead onto the negative (-)(across the source/load) side of the item. Be careful not to touch any energized conductors with any part of your body.
Resistance measurements must be made on de-energized circuits only. Impressing a voltage across the meter's terminals while set to any resistancerange may result in electric shock, damage to the instrument or the equipment under test. Make sure the equipment is completely de-energized before taking any resistance measurements!
To obtain accurate readings, disconnect at least one side of the resistor under test from the circuit or circuit board beforemeasuring resistance. Tip: confirm the measurements for color coded resistors using a color code calculator.
To avoid electrical shock or damage to the multimeter, ensure the power is removed from the circuit before any diode testing procedures are conducted. Test diodes on de-energized circuits only, never on live circuits.
Disconnect at least one side of the diode from the circuit before testing. A good diode will show a low voltage drop across its junction - 0.5-0.8 volts for a silicon diode or about 0.3V for a germanium diode - when the leads are connected in one polarity and a very high resistance when the leads are reversed.
5. Reverse the test leads and again read the results on the display. Compare the two readings - one reading should indicate a voltage drop - the other reading should indicate an overrange (OL) condition.
The buzzer will sound only if the continuity of the item under test measures less than 120 ohms. Make sure to disconnect the power source from the equipment under test before testing it for continuity!
Note, that the DC 10A range is not fused. To avoid current hazard or damage to the tester, do not try to take measurements on circuits that have more than 10 amperes. Do not take more than 10 seconds to take the reading. A waiting period of at least 15 minutes is necessary between every 15 second testing period!
To measure current on a particular circuit, you must open up the circuit and connect the test leads in series with the circuit. After the test is completed, shut the power off to the circuit before removing the test leads and before reconnecting any disconnected wires or devices.
2. Set the multimeter's Function/Range selector switch to the appropriate Amps range position as desired. To measure from 0 to 200mA, set the selector switch to the "DCmA" or "ACmA" position, as applicable. To measure from 200mA to 10 Amps DC, set the selector switch to the "DC 10A" position.
Battery life is directly proportional to the current draw/load of the device that the battery is powering. The 3 LEDs on the meter represent battery state-of-charge averages for the most commonly used devices. If the battery is below 10% of its rated voltage, the red LED will not light.
And i got a led (more then that only on it connected but lets work on the led), the led is shining a litle, far from bright.
Atm i have a 10k resistor in front of it, i know it's much, but for the purpose of learning i want to choose the resistor by meassuring.
I meassured the voltage from digital output pin 7 which says 1.58v, is this normal? (the 5v output from the board is giving the expected 5v).
I also meassured current which shows 0.33 at the display when the multimeter is set to the range of 20ma so that makes 3.3 ampere if i'm right.
The pin should give approx. 5V when it is a logic one, 1.58V can mean floating but can also mean a logic zero.
This situation is not ok if you use TTL logic.
Your do not provide enough info to actually comment on this
If you use a digital multimeter in the range of 20mA it should give you the actual reading in correlation with the scale, so 0.33 should be 0.33 mA and the DMM should give this info on the display.
On a analog multimeter you have to check the maximum reading on the scale and calculate the value according to your reading.
Often the scale has a lot of different values to help you read the value.
If the needle is half way it should be a 10mA reading etc..
A 10k resistor will nearly have the whole voltage over the resitor with a minimum of current going through it.
Check the internal resistance of you multimeter in the manual this can influence the measurement.
You can take measurements between point A and B, A and C, and B and C. Given that we're talking about an Arduino digital pin, and assuming it's HIGH, then voltage at A, with respect to C (which is at GND potential) will be +5V. Voltage at B, with respect to A, will be a negative voltage. Voltage at B, with respect to GND, will be a positive voltage. But it's easier to learn this starting with just 2 resistors.
1972: I am trying to design a 5-pole Chebyshev high pass filter that will carefully attenuate excessive bass below 100Hz, like on "Leaving on a Jet Plane" by Peter Paul and Mary, or "Magic Carpet Ride" by Steppenwolf. I am driving an audio amplifier putting out 33,250 watts RMS to modulate a 66,500 watt AM transmitter that puts out 50Kw. We have extensive AGC (Automagic Gain Control) to push maximum modulation without invoking the ire of the FCC by exceeding 100%, and the bass in those songs pumps the rest of the spectrum up and down horribly. Also those cheap transistor radios sound like crap with the 2 inch speaker flapping back and forth at frequencies they could only handle in their dreams.
So, attenuate the Low lows. BUT the FCC insists that we be within 3 db at 100Hz. BUT we only have to MEASURE at 100Hz, so, hey,if there was a little ripple and the curve just happened to go thru 100Hz at 0db, WhatTheHeck.
I spent a few nights sneaking into the computer room. They had a 1-page paper about BASIC taped on the wall. The Guru had the Book locked in his office. Eventually I got the same answers for all the resistor values as a manual design! . The next week I got a LOOP that made a TABLE of values. Holy Crap.. Maybe there was something about these computer things. Maybe I ought to learn more about them.
I built some Opamps with matched dual transistors from Fairchild in the first stage, and 3 other modern SILICON transistors, running on + and - 24 volts to have plenty of headroom for line level audio. Built the filter, came in at 1AM Sunday with the whole station to myself, and ran it. The frequency response curve was within 1 db at 100HZ and within 3 db elsewhere. Legal! And it went down like a stone below 100HZ. Listened to some pop songs, and the troublesome PPM and Steppenwolf. Did AB. On our test set of 5 different radios including a car radio there was NO apparent loss of bass, just cleaner bass, and the damn volume pumping was gone! Later demoed for music director, DJs, Management. It was declared a Trade Secret and I was not supposed to talk about it or leave the diagrams anywhere.