7.3 Ignition Switch Problems

[Heberto Calderon]

Secondlyand most importantly, remove clutter from your keychain. Heavy keychains and trinkets that dangle and sway from your keys can add strain to the cylinder and the switch, causing it to fail sooner. If possible, keep only your car key and fob on the keychain and your other keys separate.

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Sunday I was out flying my 64C model Mooney. Before taking off from my first airport, I did a full run up and everything checked fine. I flew to a second airport, picked up a passenger, did a Nother full run up and everything checked out fine. We flew to our third airport, Landed and talked with some other people for about an hour. Got back to the airplane, went and did another full run up, and ran into problems.

During this third runup, my mag check went as follows. Engine seemed to be running fine on both, switched over to left, and no drop or change so back to both. Switched over to Right, and The engine began to die so back to both and power came back. After toying around with this a few times, I determined that if I switched it to right and left it, the engine would die. I taxi back to the ramp where we began testing a few things. We called a couple of contacts who said that they believed it was either the ignition switch, or the P wire. A friend of mine with an ohm meter came out and checked the lead wire to the right mag, which showed continuity whether or not the ignition switch was selected on right, left, or both. After doing some research, this led him to believe that it was an ignition switch problem. He disconnected the mag, saying that with the wire disconnected, the mag would be hot all the time. We started the engine back up and did another mag check . The results were the same as the previous. Both ran smooth, left had no drop no change so back to both, Right began to kill the engine. Any ideas on what this might be? I am not a mechanic, and have given you all the information that I have and know.

If you started it with the right mag hot, I would have expected it to kick back on start up, and probably not start.... so maybe a mag problem..? You might want to check a few threads down regarding starting problems- I posted a link to the ignition switch SB and an article that describes some of your symptoms. Did the engine start smoothly/normally with the right mag p-lead removed?

if you checked continuity of the right p-lead with it still attached the mag, you need to remove the lead from the mag and check it again, because the points will show the mag grounded depending upon the position of the points.

I had a similar issue happen to me and it turn out to be fouled spark plugs on the right side. I tried this and it fixed my problem _fouled_plug/

Good luck friend. Hopefully is just fouled spark plugs.

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Ok yall - I sent the MAG to a MAG shop for inspection - while it is old, it is running properly. This is quite baffling to me. Theoretically, if the P lead is disconnected - the MAG should be hot - but it wasn't. That is what led me to believe that it was the MAG, Because it was dead even when disconnected from the ignition switch and the lead wire. What else could this be? I don't have engine monitor info to share.

Switch I couldn't find - but TBH haven't specifically looked for it yet - Wouldn't be surprised if it was original. But yes, the MECH checked continuity - funny thing is, the P LEAD for right MAG wouldn't GROUND - indicating always hot. WEIRD!

Some magnetos have an internal contact bar which contacts the P lead end when the P lead in installed. When the P lead is removed from the magneto it grounds the magneto internally, avoiding a hot mag.

Update: it was the P lead - ordered a new one - and got it put in. Got the mag timed tonight - tidied up some of the conglomeration of wires that were strewn about. Found three wires that, at one point, led to the switch - but had been cut in years past and taped.

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I will then keep turning the key to the start position and sooner or later it might start. Once it starts I do not turn the engine off until the end of the set. We live on the lake so we do not go an entire day on the boat, maybe an hour or 2.

First, just to be sure check the battery connections make sure everything is tight. If you just hear a click when you turn the key and the battery is good and the cables are ok odds are the starter failed.

check ns having same problem sometime start other time not someone here suggested to check ns it was rusty and replace with new from skidimm not problem since hope this helps

ns neutral safety switch it is on transmission has to srews just un screw it and look for rust mine had it and used sandpaper to clean worked for next two outings so i bougnt new one for peace of mind 10-15 dollars no problems since

I have run the bu the last three days. 3 days ago I replaced the switch, ran it 2 hours straight. I get in last night turn the key and the starter kicks in immediately, i figured it was a fluke. Tonight get in the boat and same thing starter engages like a champ. With the starter problems it has usually been starting it only once or twice a week. All symptoms have disappeared since running it everyday

That is pretty common for a bad starter. Some days it works some days it dosen't. I have a truck that needs a starter it wouldn't start for 2 days just a click and now it has been starting fine for a week.

It's just luck or a fluke that the starter is working again (pretty common though). One thing for sure, it'll quit again soon and probably when you're out on the water. Have a paddle ready or a tow line as it can ruin your day...

I went to start my 97 ranger this morning and when I turned the key I got the standard indicator lights. Then when I tried to start it there was nothing no click no crank just quiet. When I turn the key back the dash indicator lights stayed on even after the key was in the off position and removed from the switch. I tried it a few more times and the same thing happened. I had to disconnect the battery so the indicator lights, radio, etc. would not drain the battery.

What do I need to repair this.

I pulled the ignition switch out and it looks ok to me. I looked up under the steering column and can see the actuator rod. I can slide it back towards the key cylinder, I turn the key and the rod moves forward. The key cylinder and actuator rod does not spring back to the run position on its own.

What make the actuator rod and key cylinder move back to the run position?

The problem seems to be the ignition swtich. It's loose. I know it has been rained on. (The DRZ is my daily rider, in all weather. I bought it new in winter '06 and it has just over 10K miles on it now.)

I never have any other stuff dangling from the ignition switch on any car or motorcycle. Not only does the extra stuff tend to scratch things as it shakes about but the weight can cause the symptoms you describe.

The WD 40 is good to purge moisture out as it is a displacing lubricant but it tends to dry out, leaving behind a gooey film that can cause the tumblers to stick. The best thing to do is lube the electrical contacts with either a dielectric grease or an electronic contact preservative like DeOxid. The tumbler and pins should only be lubed with graphite, very sparingly as graphite is conductive.

I'll check with a locksmith. That's a good idea. Thanks! I'll hit up the contacts with dielectic grease over the weekend. I hope this fixes it. I don't want to replace the switch and then have to have to use one more key.

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