Micro Sparrow

[Armanda Kicks]

TheDestiny 2 Solstice of Heroes 2019 event has begun, and on top of some sleek armor and summer-themed Ghost accessories, it's introduced quite possibly the best sparrow in history: the Micro Mini Destiny 2 Sparrow.

As its name suggests, the Micro Mini is an itty-bitty sparrow that looks like one of those coin-operated rocket ship rides you used to see in front of shops. It is hilariously, amazingly small. Watching a grown-ass Guardian ride it, especially a Titan with oversized armor, is pure joy, and I swear it's faster than other sparrows, though that may just be a trick of the eyes due to its small size. In any case, you're going to want this hotrod for yourself. Luckily, it's currently very easy to get the Micro Mini Destiny 2 Sparrow.

Unlike last year's Solstice, there are no Solstice Engrams this time around, but at the same time all of the cosmetics available this year can be purchased for Bright Dust or Silver. Different Solstice items will be available every week via the Eververse store's Bright Dust page, and as luck would have it, the Micro Mini is available this week for 2,500 Bright Dust. It'll be available until reset on Tuesday, August 6, and there's no telling if it'll appear in the Bright Dust listings again before the Solstice ends on August 27, so buy it while you can get it without spending real money.

If you're short on Bright Dust, be sure to grab and complete all the Eververse bounties you can, and throw on an EXP-boosting Ghost Shell to increase your Bright Engram turnout. You won't get any Solstice items from Bright Engrams, but you can at least get items you can break down for Bright Dust. Speaking of which, if you've got any unwanted Eververse items kicking around 0 armor, ships, shaders, etc. - go ahead and shard them too. You may as well get some Dust out of them ahead of the big Eververse changes coming in Destiny 2 Shadowkeep.

Austin freelanced for the likes of PC Gamer, Eurogamer, IGN, Sports Illustrated, and more while finishing his journalism degree, and he's been with GamesRadar+ since 2019. They've yet to realize that his position as a senior writer is just a cover up for his career-spanning Destiny column, and he's kept the ruse going with a focus on news and the occasional feature, all while playing as many roguelikes as possible."}), " -0-10/js/authorBio.js"); } else console.error('%c FTE ','background: #9306F9; color: #ffffff','no lazy slice hydration function available'); Austin WoodSocial Links NavigationAustin freelanced for the likes of PC Gamer, Eurogamer, IGN, Sports Illustrated, and more while finishing his journalism degree, and he's been with GamesRadar+ since 2019. They've yet to realize that his position as a senior writer is just a cover up for his career-spanning Destiny column, and he's kept the ruse going with a focus on news and the occasional feature, all while playing as many roguelikes as possible.

This article discusses how the challenge of photographing small birds-in-flight can be made easy by a combination of technology and technique. All of the photographs featured in this article were captured handheld using an Olympus OM-D E-M1X with its Pro Capture H mode.

I started my morning yesterday at the Urquhart Butterfly Garden in Hamilton Ontario, hoping to capture some images of hummingbirds as well as some butterflies. Unfortunately my intended subjects did not cooperate.

I noticed the sparrow in some dense foliage and managed to place a single autofocus point on its head. Wanting to capture the bird in flight in the centre of my frame, I positioned the sparrow on the right hand side of my composition. After waiting for the bird to take flight, I fully depressed my shutter release after it exited the left side of my composition. This locked in the photographs stored in temporary memory.

It was a quiet morning at Hendrie with no large birds like herons, osprey or egrets in the vicinity. So, I decided to concentrate on photographing small birds in flight with Pro Capture H. The photographs above and below utilized the same composition technique as used with the images captured at Urquhart Butterfly Garden.

The sparrow in the photograph above was perched in dark shade. I could tell by its body position and the angle of its head that it was intending to fly upward and through some patches of sunlight in the leaf canopy. After it launched into flight, then exited my composition, I fully depressed by shutter release and captured my anticipated photograph.

When using Pro Capture H, a photographer can wait for the desired bird behaviour to occur before fully depressing the shutter release on their camera. This makes photographing small birds-in-flight much easier and more predictable, especially for quick interbranch flights.

The female cardinal in the photograph above lauched into flight directly towards me. Knowing that the bird would fly out of focus quickly, I fully depressed my shutter release much faster than I normally would.

As we can see in the photograph below, it can also be beneficial to capture some good light on the back and wings of dark birds as this can help reveal more details. Watching birds move about on their favourite trees can give a photographer a good idea of their typical movement patterns.

The image above was captured after I noticed that a number of red winged blackbirds were using the same branches as perches. They would often fly upward and bank into the sun as they moved to other branches. I waited for a bird to perch on a thick branch that appeared to be a common launching point. After it took flight I fully depressed my shutter release which produced the photograph above.

Sometimes it is apparent that a small bird will be flying on an angle away from my camera. In these situations I will often get in as tight as possible to capture extended wing positions before the bird flies out of focus.

The final image in this article was captured in my backyard later that afternoon. Using Pro Capture H can make photographing small birds-in-flight an enjoyable experience even when we are in our own backyard or photographing very common small birds.

Photographs were captured hand-held using camera gear as noted in the EXIF data. Image were produced from RAW files using my standard process. Photographs were cropped to taste, then resized for web use.

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If I remember it correctly, Nokia was somehow among the first (if not the first big mobile phone manufacturer) to reframe the smartphone as standalone camera alternative with 41-45 mp cameras that came with more refine adjustment settings for aperture and speed. About 5-7 years ago, it seemed farfetched but the shift in how we consume/use images has drastically changed in the interim. Again, as you pointed out in a previous post comment, the heavier demand for online commerce now and in the near future has somehow ruled out/decreased the need for full sized/medium format photography.

Having technology-enabled features like Pro Capture, Live ND, HHHR, in-camera focus stacking, 7-stop of IBIS performance, as well as IPX-1 weatherproofing adds a huge amount of convenience and functionality to my Olympus photographic experience. After a year of use I cannot imagine using another camera system. For me, it comes down to convenience and innovative technology.

After Olympus brings their planned 100-400 mm f/5-6.3 consumer zoom and PRO 150-400 mm f/4.5 with 1.25 teleconverter zoom to market the appeal of the system for bird photographers will increase significantly, especially when used with Pro Capture H.

I'm Greg, a software developer, and I've recently started to work with Arduinos. One small project I'm working on is recreating Jack Sparrow's compass from the Pirates of the Caribbean movies. It's part of a larger scavenger hunt project I'm working on.

The general idea is that the Arduino initiates the servo to a starting position using the IR obstacle detection sensor, then, it will determine the location via GPS, measure the direction it needs to point based on the IMU's magnetometer that tells us where north is, and rotate the compass dial attached to the servo.

My design will replicate this form, and my base is a 10x10 cm octagon-shape that I can work with, with approximately 4cm for the height of the lower part, because that's as high as the servo with the attached compass dial will be. This can be more if needed, but to be honest, the lower part seems quite tall already.

I will attempt to "hide" the GPS module to the upper, folding cover part of the compass, so let's say that only the cables for it would need to go down to the lower part where the rest of the hardware will be.

Obviously, the servo goes to the dead center of the base, and the Arduino nano as well as the IR sensor can go somewhere next to it. Cable management aside, this leaves me with not a lot of space for the power supplies:

How about a small LiPo battery?

1200mAh capacity, 34mm x 62mm x 5mm .

Don't forget a charge control card.

"The included protection circuitry keeps the battery voltage from going too high (over-charging) or low (over-use) which means that the battery will cut-out when completely dead at 3.0V. It will also protect against output shorts. However, even with this protection it is very important that you only use a LiIon/LiPoly constant-voltage/constant-current charger to recharge them and at a rate of 500mA or less."

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