Electronic Battery Isolator

[Elia Khensamphanh]

BatteryIsolation

The Cartek Battery Isolator XR works by being fitted in between the negative side of the battery and the chassis. When the external kill button has been activated or the internal button been switched to the off state, then the Battery Isolator will disconnect the negative side of the battery from the Chassis. This means that no power can get to any of the electrical circuits as there is a break in the circuit.

How Is It Controlled?

The two electronic isolation circuits are controlled by microprocessors and incorporate various safety systems including over-temperature and over-current monitoring. These microprocessors also monitor the kill switches/buttons for instant activation without false triggering.

Onboard systems usually consist of two or more batteries that function independently when powering the 12 or 24 V consumers. These batteries require independent charging with reliable battery isolators or battery combiners.

The Battery Mate is most suitable for charging multiple batteries, possibly with various brands of alternators, even if their charge voltage cannot be adjusted. It can charge two or three batteries with a very high yield and without voltage loss.

Looking for a way to charge your multiple battery banks independently? Without the heat generation of conventional battery isolators. Looking for a robust solution without changing your charging system? Find the best-in-class electronic battery isolator: WBI 180 A 3 Outputs IG.

WBI 180 A 3 Outputs IG series low voltage drop battery isolators have a negligible voltage drop and are therefore the ultimate solution for charging multiple battery banks with charge equipment whose charge voltage cannot be adjusted. Another advantage is that due to the low voltage drop the WBI does not waste charging energy. This results in very high efficiency.

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As a microprocessor-controlled battery isolator, the REDARC Smart Start SBI range protects your primary battery by using your alternator to charge your auxiliary battery. With state of the art power saving technology, our dual battery isolator kits are compact in size and easy to install. Not to mention, they have a sophisticated fault detection system which can warn you of over-voltage, voltage drops and excessive draw conditions.

For the ultimate set up, pair a REDARC dual smart battery isolator with a battery management system. With all this power and the ability to withstand the harshest conditions, you can count on REDARC for your next adventure. Shop 12 volt battery isolators at REDARC with free shipping in the contiguous US.

Battery Doctor state-of-the-art, fully automatic dual battery controller is suitable for any vehicle with an auxiliary battery. Smaller and lighter than other standard battery isolators, the Battery Doctor Battery Isolator employs electronic switching control technology. Our high-performance electronic isolator allows you to charge two batteries from a single alternator, and keeps the starting battery isolated from the second battery. Also, with a single push of the override/reset button, you can change the batteries to parallel mode for jump starting.

- Priority charging for starting battery.

- Includes mounting bracket that houses the 4"x4"x2" Isolator.

- Over current and surge protected for vehicles with electronic systems.

- Manual override for starting battery.

- Automatically charges auxiliary battery.

CARTEK electronic Battery Isolatorsare a very small and highly reliable alternative to the traditional mechanical master-switch.

They have been designed to overcome all the problems and restrictions associated with mechanical and electro/mechanical master-switches to maximise reliability, enhance safety, save weight and simplify installation.

- Fully electronic with no moving parts.

- Totally sealed against water and dirt.

- Completely resistant to shock and vibration.

- Fully integrated with built in alternator run-down circuitry

- Noextra components required.

-Driver operation by a single internal ON-OFF button/switch.

- External operation by single or multiple 'strike' button(s).

-Buttons / switches connected to Isolatorusing light weight wiring.

- Mounts close to battery for reduced cabling.

- Very small and weight is only 70g - 100g.

- Designed and manufactured in UK using the latest and best qualitycomponents available.

- Meets FIA Safety Regulations.

The Battery Isolators work by being connected in between the negative side of the battery and the chassis (see picture opposite). When the external kill button has been activated, or the internal button been switched to the off state, then the Battery Isolator will disconnect the negative side of the battery from the chassis. This means that power is removed from all electrical circuits as they all obtain their negative power connection via the chassis.

Solid-State means no moving parts, all power switching is fully electronic.

Early types of battery isolation utilised large mechanical master-switches while more modern systems have utilised electro-mechanical solenoids. Both types of systems contain mechanical electrical contacts which, due to the combination of high electrical current and the shocks and vibration of the race car environment, sparking between the contacts occurs which results in contact erosion and eventual unreliability.

Our Solid-State Battery Isolators are also filled with a hard setting resin which keeps them fully sealed against dust, dirt and water while also making them resistant to shock and vibration. This further increases their strength and reliability.

Advanced safety features

As Cartek Battery Isolators use normally-closed, push-to-break, external kill buttons it allows multiple external buttons to be connected in series. This was implemented by Ford forthe Formula Ford Ecoboost cars which were fitted with an external kill button on each side. This safety feature means amarshal will always have quick access to a kill button even if the car is on its side or upside down.

These Battery Isolators will instantly trigger into isolation mode when any of the kill buttons are struck or on detection of any fault or break in the switch wiring circuits for added safety.

Cartek also manufacture a unique Fire Extinguisher button which ca also be connected to the Battery Isolator Circuit. This means that if the Fire Extinguisher system has been activated the Battery Isolator will simultaneously stop the engine and disconnect the battery.

GT BATTERY ISOLATOR (Factory ECU'S / PDM's)

The GT Battery Isolator disconnects the negative side of the battery from chassis, as described above, andstops the engine by providing a switched 12v power output which can be used as the main power input to the Ignition or ECU. When the Battery Isolator is switched off and the negative side of the battery has been disconnected it will also cut the 12v output powering your Ignition or ECU thereby stopping the engine. The GT Battery Isolator is designed for cars with no ECU or standard OE ECU.

Been a while since I have posted here. Lets get into it. I am building a harness for my 2013 WRX. I am using a Haltech Nexus R5. I am not doing a full rewire of the car, only using the Nexus for primary engine functions, fuel pumps, fans, etc. Overkill, I know, but I had the R5 left over from a previous build I decided to go a different direction with.

Onto my question. I want to wire in a MSEL battery isolator, just to add more protection. The instructions say to go from the Battery to MSEL and from MSEL to PDM/Fusebox, Alternator, Starter. However, the stock wiring in the WRX goes from battery to starter/fusebox and the alternator on it's own wire, with a 120 Amp fuse between the battery/starter and alternator. If I am using the MSEL, am I tying all of those points together?

I appreciate the response! I guess I should add that I am relocating the battery to the trunk and if I were to wire it that way, I would add a great deal of additional wiring if I were to do it that way. I will add a drawing of what I have going on in my mind.

Basically in my head I would go from battery to MSEL, MSEL up to the firewall, firewall to PDM, Starter, Fusebox, and Alternator. I would remove the 120 Amp Fuse and tie the original battery wire and alternator wire to a single post.

Usually when the MSEL unit or similar and a PDM are present and governing all electronics on the vehicle, fuses are not used. The battery isolator and PDM both have short protection which is what the fuse was there for on the stock system.

I understand that. I'm only using a few of the high current outputs of the Nexus. Namely, to power the coilpacks, injectors, fans, fuel pumps, and DCCD controller. The rest of the car is running the stock wiring. I'm not ready to rip out all the stock wiring yet, so I'm just using what makes sense for my application as it sits.

That's pretty much what I was asking about. Stock fusebox itself will be in its original location. I'm just trying to figure out how to run the power cable for the MSEL Isolator. If I were to remove a fuse, it would only be the main large 120A fuse, in order to run the power as MSEL recommends. Since the alternator, from the factory, connects to one side of the fusebox and the battery power is on the other side. Separated by a 120A fuse.

At 30% smaller size and 40% lighter weight than the GT isolators, the XR version offers even more benefits and performance when compared with traditional mechanical master-switches and electro/mechanical safety cut-outs.

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