Holding tank for Pearson 30

[Jesse Tane]

Hi all, does anyone have drawings for holding tank(s) they have made for the Pearson 30 they would be willing to share?

I've started on a ~17 gallon design for one that could fit in the bottom of the hanging locker (see drawing and mockup test fit photos attached) and am either hoping to use someone else's design, incorporate features or generally take into account feedback folks here might have.

From searching other threads it seems like people have had success with getting custom tanks made by Triple M, so my design thus far is based on my understanding of the process described on their website. Interested to hear about other builders or DIY techniques as well.

Thanks in advance!

[Robert Franklin]

I built one that fit nicely behind the toilet. I am not sure I still have the specs but I may. I will have to dig a bit.  Do you want me to reply to the group or to you exclusively?

Bob Franklin

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[Jesse Tane]

Thanks Bob. I'd guess that if we have specs others might find useful we should share with everyone? Even if you can't find your docs it would be interesting to hear about your tank's estimated capacity, construction method, similarities and differences to what I started on, any potentially useful anecdotes, features, warnings etc...

[Mike Mayer]

A few more pictures of the install under the vberth..

Mike M.

P30#475

https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/01dab775-e073-4c6f-98bd-d1b492c76339n%40googlegroups.com

.

[Mike Mayer]

Hi Jesse,

I had a 20gal tank made for mt '73 P30 (#475)  from Triple-m-plastics in Maine in 2017.

Still working great, no leaks - mounted under the vberth forward of the water tank.

I have other pictures I'll share once I find them.

Mike M.

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[Peter McGowan]

Hey there,

Recently replaced traveler on P36.  Looking for advice on what to do with the original?   Current plan is drop if off at a nearby “boat parts scrapyard”…

Thanks,

Peter

P36#6 Dragonfly

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/2008453271.1728614.1691769411910%40mail.yahoo.com.

[Robert Franklin]

This is an interesting posting for me.  I have owned my P36 for 42 years with a break midway to another owner, from whom I purchased "Arion" back to me.

That owner changed the original traveler adjusting cars by placing the  blocks and jam cleats on the wall above the track on each side. As a result the controlling lines curve upward slightly from wherever the main control car happened to be positioned. When the main car is center line, which is most often the angle from the car results in the three part control line being elevated above the traveler track about two inches when it reaches the outermost point on the wall above the cockpit seats.

It is treacherous. When moving forward or coming aft the set up is just right to trip up the moving person, especially if you are concentrated on something else. 

I am considering changing back to the original arrangement where the control blocks and jam cleats were integrated at the ends of the traveler so that the lines are more or less touching the traveler.

Tell me more about what you are planning, please. Maybe a photo or two.

I have wondered why this change was made to begin with (along with a lot of other changes to my boat I have had to undo).  I suppose it looks sexier to be sitting on the coaming and pulling up on the traveler control line and in the position you would have greater strength to do so.

Bob Franklin

P36, "ARION"

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WAD89G4yZs6T0YLhPSsfPznSMkq38HHsC_tnO%3D_Uny%3DdZg%40mail.gmail.com.

[Peter McGowan]

it’s original setup  with the cams on the traveler itself.  I can see if it’s possible to just send you the cams.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAODnOUaDUmoBV9uuQz-zhOu2ATb5tHhtynS2%2BZP1rjyQO0GP1A%40mail.gmail.com.

[Peter McGowan]

Bob, it’s easy they just slide off once I remove the bolts.  I agree with you, I don’t like the idea of them on the coamings.  Heck, I have adjustable inner headsail sheets installed and those come over the coamings from the outside so it would be a bit chaotic.  What’s your address?  

[Robert Franklin]

Robert M. Franklin

145 Lagrange St 

Chestnut Hill, MA 02467

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WACbn7f8PX9cN1%2BA9zVORtsOtY1%3DmJzfnii%3DmppNeNqemQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[Robert Franklin]

I found my stuff.  I'll scan and attach. 

It looks like I designed something, sketched it and passed it along to Sealand. (Dometic.) 

Someone there must have taken pity on me and had it drawn professionally.

I'll be attaching the two drawings. From the notes it looks like I did all of this 20 years ago.

P-30.  In my opinion the best Pearson had to offer. Reasonable size for the kind of sailing and cruising we actually do. Not the sailing and cruising we now watch mostly on youtube.

Bob

On Fri, Aug 11, 2023 at 11:56 AM 'Mike Mayer' via pearson-boats <pearso...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

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[Robert Franklin]

Attached are the drawings for a holding tank on a P30.

On Fri, Aug 11, 2023 at 11:56 AM 'Mike Mayer' via pearson-boats <pearso...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/2008453271.1728614.1691769411910%40mail.yahoo.com.

[Jesse Tane]

Thanks Mike! I have to laugh at how similar our cardboard and tape mock ups look.

I'll admit I didn't really consider this location because I was hoping to avoid disassembling the v berth to get it installed (I am out cruising) and I guess I figured it would save on hose cost, be easier to work on if necessary, etc. That said, your tank has the advantages of being larger as well as keeping the more easily accessible hanging locker space free... did you consider the hanging locker at all? Any reason you'd suggest one location over the other if you had to do it again?

If it's not too much trouble I have a few more questions:

In your drawing with dimensions (very helpful!) I can't read the label on the port just aft of the forward vent (it might just say 3/4) Is this port in use? Maybe for some kind of level monitoring if you're willing to expand on that subject?

Does your tank have any floor or other supporting structure underneath or elsewhere that you had to create or is it happy just resting directly on the hull? 

I see your design calls for two 1" vents, are you using both of yours and where did you decide to locate your vent thru hull fittings?

Where did you locate your deck level pump out fitting?

Since you have two outlets I assume one is intended for an overboard discharge option - is that in use and if so what are you using for a discharge pump / where is it located?

[Jesse Tane]

Thanks Bob - is there by any chance another view or sheet that includes dimensions? Also, I wonder, do you think this tank currently offered by Dometic could be based on your design?

There doesn't appear to be any p30 specific hull shape to this tank - do you recall having to build any external support structure for it or were you able to simply wedge it into the available space without issue?

There is a note on the drawing about a whale discharge pump, did you add this option and if so where did you locate it?

[Frank Barrett]

Looks just like the one I made for my P-30 (hull #79). 

Drawing is very similar with the exception that I put a 1.5" plug on the bottom of the forward side panel to a "Y" valve that would make pump out or gravity discharge when sailing off shore.

To increase the size a bit I also glassed in a mounting board for the bottom so the tank sits a bit higher and can be larger. This also made it difficult to slide it into position though. Maybe not the best idea.

Dont forget about tie downs after installation.

Frank B

[Alptraveler]

Guys, if you read my post from last yr, I uninstalled-installed a new tank made by Triple M(I think) in our 31-2. Anyway, they were awesome to work with and they answer the phone for any questions. The 31-2's tank is in the vberth and yes I had to tear it apart. At first it seemed intimidating but once I organized the screws in their own labeled baggies it was easy to figure out. I don't mind the tank to be located in the vberth, it seems "centered". Also, our 31-2 's pump out is on the anchor locker(really??? Why??).

On the other hand, our slipmates have a Beneteau, their holding tank is vertical, directly behind the toilet and against their hull.  Theirs is really easy to get to in order to inspect the tank,etc. Ours.....tear apart the vberth. To solve the inspection issue, I opted to not install the top cover board screws back in place so I can lift the cover board and take a peek at the tank. In order to monitor the fullness of the tank, we installed an outside tank monitor,  Scad TM1.

My point.....

*Installation is a personal choice as to what you are willing to give up, space vs convenience vs size

*I think our tank is a 16gal and we pump out e' 3-4 days if used regularly, longer by maybe 1 day if it is only used for 1st and last pee of the day(×2 females,we do not pee overboard). Of course, the more brewski's the more pee. A bigger tank to fit the spot sure would have been nice, but the tank is already a sardine. With that being said, we actually and intentionally set our "full gauge"  1.5" from the inlet hose at the top and 2.5" from the top of the tank. That setting eats up a lot of volume real-estate but it gives us room to pee once at the full mark if we are not close to a pumpout station. We felt that was a better scenario than an oops, we are at capacity scenario and it comes out the vent.....GROSS!

I am totally clueless as to what the 30 layout looks like so I can only offer my situation and reflection of my tank install. All is all, a very satisfying task and it made me understand my system so much better. Also, don't go cheap on the hoses, buy good hoses which are meant for the job and put in the largest vent your boat can afford.

Good luck, you will reap satisfaction.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/997dbb6d-8d30-43e1-a0c4-c31bf84deb17n%40googlegroups.com.

[Jesse Tane]

Hi Frank, I did attempt a larger design first but ran into interference with the forward lower chainplate knee. Thanks for pointing out the need for tie downs - perhaps via some through bolts in the forward and aft locker bulkheads?

[Jesse Tane]

I think I found your other posts (see links below for reference, let me know if I missed any):

Leaking tank thread: https://groups.google.com/g/pearson-boats/c/0aeh9G6GXCE

Tank fittings thread: https://groups.google.com/g/pearson-boats/c/vDX3jCZwBbQ

Lots of good info there and in your post here, thank you for sharing your experience and insights, really helpful for me.

If anyone else remembers other good holding tank related threads please feel free to reply with links.

[Robert Franklin]

I'd be flattered if Dometic adopted my design. Their drawing suggests someone there thought it might be worth doing and I recall some talk to that point. Beyond that, what I sent is pretty much all I have. Yes, the addition of a Whale was my idea.  Mostly, I was concerned that is fit behind the toilet and the rest was just standard logic about direction change valves, pump out and the like.

I believe I can find the name of the person I sold the P30 to 18 years ago. If he still has it that might be a source of details.

Bob

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/d6fffb37-f3a6-40ff-b15d-4d36ee978cd2n%40googlegroups.com.

[Jesse Tane]

Does anyone have notes (or links to the best existing threads) on tank level sensing and monitoring? Ideally I'd like to have something I can hook into my existing NMEA 2000 network and since I consume all my data using phones or laptops I don't need any display or indicator hardware.

I think I'm convinced my tank design and location makes sense given the input from others here, I'm just trying to decide now on how big of an inspection port to include. From looking at other designs 3" seems standard but also maybe excessive if new tech offers pressure based / external / optical monitoring? Am I overlooking some other terrifying purpose for the giant inspection port?

[Dan Pfeiffer]

Check out what these guys have:
https://www.sailorssolutions.com/?page=Products&SubCategoryID=81

I don't know if they have the NMEA200 integration but it's a great idea. 

Dan Pfeiffer

On 2023-08-21 10:40 am, Jesse Tane wrote:

Does anyone have notes (or links to the best existing threads) on tank level sensing and monitoring? Ideally I'd like to have something I can hook into my existing NMEA 2000 network and since I consume all my data using phones or laptops I don't need any display or indicator hardware.

 

I think I'm convinced my tank design and location makes sense given the input from others here, I'm just trying to decide now on how big of an inspection port to include. From looking at other designs 3" seems standard but also maybe excessive if new tech offers pressure based / external / optical monitoring? Am I overlooking some other terrifying purpose for the giant inspection port?

 

On Tuesday, August 15, 2023 at 12:53:59 AM UTC-4 robertm...@gmail.com wrote:

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[Alptraveler]

Scad sensors are not integrated,as far as I know, to the nmea system. Maybe they have updated but mine is only 2 yrs old. Their sensor(s) read to an external sensor supplied with their unit. I have a scad on my new holding tank, external mounting. 

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/44d7baec0d25f69caf6fddeeedd68cca%40pfeiffer.net.

[Jesse Tane]

That looks very cool, thank you Dan and Alptraveler. I recognize the SCAD name now from the "leaking holding tank" thread. It seems like this sensor was blamed in part for the overflow event? Am I correct in assuming that this was merely due to a calibration issue and not inaccuracy or inconsistency in the sensor itself?

Assuming SCAD is the way to go for sensing, it looks like this device should do the trick for getting the data into N2K and has room to add additional tanks later: https://www.yachtd.com/products/tank_adapter_04.html.

Dan I see your suggestion in Alp's thread to avoid designing in an inspection port and to cut a hole later if necessary. Fewer holes in the tank sounds good to me. Also noted your advice to try and keep ports toward the center line of the tank.

Updated the design slightly to remove inspection port and take other points into account, see attached. Public CAD drawing here. Estimated volume currently looking like 18 gallons (before dip tubes, wall thickness, etc). Going to send over to Triple M for a quote in a bit unless anyone spots anything else, will reply with lead time and cost when I know it.

[Dan Pfeiffer]

I don't think Tripple-M will be keen on that curved face on back side.  I would make all the faces flat.  You won't loose that much volume and it's a simpler tank.   Otherwise it looks great.

Dan Pfeiffer

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/4cca0962-ada8-4c0d-8572-e8738158dbfbn%40googlegroups.com.

[Alptraveler]

Jessie,

Yes, the scad programming was partially the issue to my tank overflow. Not 100% sure it was human error, vent blocked, sensor error or all of the above

 When I got the new tank I actually sent the diagram to them, scad company, and had them tell me exactly what tank shape to choose and where to place my sensors so the overflow would not happen again. As of now, with all of the new info, the sensor is working great. We are over cautious. We have place the foil sensors below the intake fitting and have programmed the actual sensor to read full when it is probably 85% full. That way we know we have rm to pee some more if we can not get to a pump out rt away.

As far as 3m working with you re having a curve....call and talk to them after you have sent them the info. The gal that places the order is very knowledgeable and can tell you if it can happen, or not.

As far as the inspection port....I ended up getting one but know that they seal the port in place so it does not leak. Once thing I was not prepared for re the inspection port....the original screw on cap for the inspection port was fairly flat,low profile. The new one has a square know that is a much higher profile.

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/12ccc5cc29e1b60dbb523844a79aa483%40pfeiffer.net.

[Jesse Tane]

Thanks Alp, that all makes sense, appreciate the detail, calibration should be interesting.

Dan, you're right about the curve - they can do it, however quote is $819 curved or $671 flat. CAD program says volume goes down to 3944 cubic inches from 4187 so that's what, a 22% price reduction for a 6% reduction in volume? I think I agree that's a compromise worth making... further opinions welcome though.

Unrelated construction question for those who already have Triple M tanks - are the panel faces sized before welding as pictured in the attached image (see corner at upper right, hopefully this makes sense) or are some panels selectively increased / decreased in size so that there is edge / face overlap?

[Jesse Tane]

Finally got around to sorting through last year's photos which included the final install. The tank works great so far, no issues half a season in at least.

https://www.jessetane.com/isotope/2023/holding-tank

https://www.jessetane.com/isotope/2024/summer/#holding-tank