Pearson 39 Owners

[basil rowland]

Hi folks,

I'm looking for any owners of the earlier version of the Pearson 39.  Interested in talking shop...

Thanks,

Basil Rowland

[FINBUCK]

What’s up?

Capt Mick Gurley
finb...@gmail.com

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[basil rowland]

Thanks for replying, Capt Mike.  I've got a contract on a 1970 P39 and pre purchase survey is scheduled for 3/13.  This vessel has been to the Bahamas 10x and I'd like to cruise her back there with my girlfriend next winter. The current owners are very minimalist as the vessel has 12V only with a small two plug inverter, 4 lead/acid batteries, two burner alcohol stove/oven, upgraded ice box with small fridge/freezer unit, engine heater hot water tank and water pressure system, homemade dodger and awning (no bimini), and and older wind generator and solar panel mounted on the cabin top.  

I'm actually okay with all of the above as we are minimalist as well but am considering and would appreciate and feedback on the following:

• moving the mainsheet traveler from the cockpit to cabin topa and adding a solid vang (seen this done on a couple of P39's using the original boom)
• installing new dodger/bimini and adding new flexible solar panels to the top of bimini (it's my understanding that newer flexible solar panels are nearly as efficient as rigid ones)
• upgrading batteries to lithium and installing a 2,000 watt inverter if necessary otherwise I'm fine with lead/acid - I've heard lithium have drawbacks
• adding a two-burner induction cooktop that can rest on the current gimballed two burner alcohol stove/oven for backup and occasional use
• add a portable 12V fridge/freezer if necessary at some point and stow it in the quarter berth

The current owners have really kept her in nice shape and she's well maintained but they were very frugal and kept things simple.  I'm fine with old skool.

I'd appreciate any suggestions regarding any of the above and if you prefer a phone chat let me know when is a good time for you or simply call 7573773532.  I'm ET in Virginia.

Thanks very much,

Capt. Basil Rowland

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[Dan Pfeiffer]

I have some input for you even though I have a 10M not a 39.  But, except for the traveler relocation your questions could apply to any boat. 


MOVING TRAVELER
Moving mainsheet is workable BUT, the loads on the hardware will probably be a bit more than 2x what they are with the end-boom on that very long boom on the P39.  You will need a very strong bridge to mount the traveler (doable) and it needs to be very securely and strongly attached to the cabin top (also doable).  I would guess the OEM traveler may not be strong enough used this far forward on the boat.  See if you can find some specs.  If it's the same Nicro Fico traveler that Pearson put on all the larger boats in those days I can confirm it is inferior to the loads at that forward location.   Also, I would do a three point block layout on the boom to spread the loads.  And make that as wide as practical.  You will need double or more purchase on the mainsheet to make it the same line load as it was aft and you'll have 2x the line to deal with.  Or you'll need to put it to a cabintop winch for basic control.  Then you also need stoppers?   A lot of boats are setup like that.  It would never do for me the way I use my boat but it can work.  And at least with the P39 you're forward in the cockpit at the helm so not too far from the mainsheet (unless the wheel was re-located aft...).

Look at this to play with the numbers to get an idea of the loads:
https://www.harken.com/en/support/selection-tools/calculators/mainsheet-loading-calculator/

(The P39 OEM mainsheet attached way out at the end of the boom so the (X) length in that formula is -2.1.)

SOLAR
More is better.  Parallel panels are better I think to deal with shading issues.  MPPT controllers are the way to go. More on this below...

LITHIUM BATTERIES
This is workable but you need to upgrade the charging system to actually take proper advantage of the capabilities of the lithium batteries.   Lithium uses a different charge profile and unless the engine alternator is 120 amps or more it's probably not enough to use 400AH of lithium efficiently.   If you're replacing 4x lead acid with same physical size LiFePo4 you will increase the usable capacity by 2x or more.  If you had 400AH of lead acid batteries you really have 200AH usable (50% depth of discharge).  With the LiFEPo4 DoD is 100%.  More info on batteries here:
http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/electric_drive_battery.htm

INDUCTION COOKTOP and REFRIGERATOR
This is all doable if you have the battery capacity and the charging capacity.  You need a lot of amps to run that cooktop.  Seems like a lot  for a 12V inverter but maybe?  Better suited to a 48V setup I think but that is a lot more re-engineering of the electrical system (but also doable).  And if you went that route you need to have solar voltage of at least 56V to get the right charging for a 48V bank.  All doable and worth consideration for the improved efficiency and best to plan from the ground up with all that in mind.  In general I like a headroom safety factor on the electrics of about 1.75 to 2.  Meaning I like normal operation to be no more than 60 to 70% of max capacity.  (for rigging like the traveler I like 3.5 to 4...).


Hope this helps,
Dan Pfeiffer

[Guy Johnson]

It's hard to tell from pictures on the web. It looks like the 39 has a bridge deck in front of the wheel, if it does you might be able to mount your traveler on the aft edge of the bridge deck similar to how the traveler is mounted on the 10M. If would be easy to reach from the wheel, have a wide base of adjustability and be easier to trim the main sheet. Harken and others make some very nice $$$ multi-speed mainsheets. 

Lithium, Inverters and electric stove. Well, that would certainly move you far away from the minimalist camp. I don't have any idea what the load from an induction stove is... 

Electrically speaking there are many advantages to increasing your battery bank voltage, one big one is currents and related resistance heating are decreased by the same factor as the increase in voltage. Voltage = Resistance * Current. Watts = Voltage * current. 

If you add a bank of Lithium batteries, I suggest you keep a 12v house bank and use it as a buffer between your existing system and your new Lithium set up. A DC - DC charger would move energy from your existing 12v system to your new Lithium bank. 

Guy

Puffin 10M #6

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From: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Dan Pfeiffer <d...@pfeiffer.net>
Sent: Friday, March 7, 2025 1:00 PM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [pearson ] Pearson 39 Owners

 

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[basil rowland]

Thanks Dan - very helpful information.  Here are a couple of pics of P39's with traveler moved over main hatch hood.  These setups look sound, but I'm curious how well they perform and if these owners would have done anything different.  

And these folks have shade tolerant flexible panels - not inexpensive, but would be just right for our purposes:

https://custommarineproducts.store/collections/shade-tolerant-solar-panels?srsltid=AfmBOorswqt4R4x31h0Oqa0fkMHXsRRqMzSvGPp0M4ocrgXhRX1nJ3_m

Will probably need to hire a boat electrician to assess and install battery solar upgrades based on what's there.  That will be expensive!

Thanks again - gotta run....

[basil rowland]

Thanks for all your feedback and ideas!  Great group!  

I found an example of an electrical system on an off grid Beneteau 393 that does it all.  Not simple or old skool, but might like to adopt some of these practices. She is owned by a marine electrician and is a 220V boat, it can be plugged into 110V pedestals, but it is not necessary as the solar panels and wind generator keep the Lithium batteries charged. There is enough power to cook with the induction.

1 x NAPA 12V Engine start battery 
2 x Winston LiFePo4 House batteries – 440 AH
3 x Solar panels – 870W
Victron 2000 W Smart Inverter
Honda 1000 (220V) Generator

Adler Induction cooktop
Frigoboat top-loading Freezer
Frigoboat front-loading Fridge

ELECTRICAL:
220V/12V system w/ 110V capability (all plugs are 220V)
2 x Shorepower inlets
2 x Shorepower cables
1 x NAPA 12V Engine start battery (7/24)
2 x Winston LiFePo4 House batteries – 440AH (2021 – 143 cycles)
Cristec 60A Battery Charger

Victron Energy Battery Monitor
Victron 2000 W Smart Inverter

870W Solar:
1 x Enjoy ESolar 140W Panel (stern)
2 x Carib Marine 180W Panels (port & starboard)
1 x Carib Marine 370W Panel (bimini)
Victron MPPT100/30 Solar controller
EPEVER MPPT 40A Solar controller

Honda 1000 (220V) Generator w/ 20 hours

[Dave Cole]

I would try and go with a 48v battery system as has been mentioned if you want maximum power with minimal cost.  

Also the Victron stuff is nice but you could buy multiple 5kw AIO solar inverters for the cost of all of the components.  The SRNE branded equipment or rebranded equipment has been proven to be reliable.   The 5 kw all in one units are going for about $600 now.  

The all in one units are inverters, chargers, and have mppt inputs.  Some are setup for high voltage solar.  So choose carefully.

Diysolar.com is a good resource.

I have an induction cooktop on my 10M.  It works fine off a 1500 watt inverter.  I have a hybrid lead acid starting/lifepo4 house battery system on the boat.  But it has been changing every year simply because I enjoy electrical work.

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[Dan Pfeiffer]

Both photos show replacement travelers.  Not the OEM Nicro Fico.  Good because that Nicro Fico would not hold up to the loads in that forward position.  They both look beefy enough I guess.  Hard to tell. 

The setup in the first photo looks like a 3:1 purchase so that must be committed to a winch.  And that's fine but can be a bit slow to release quickly like when you get a big puff that rounds you up.   First thing to do is dump the main.  So you gotta get to the cabin top winch, uncleat the sheet while maintaining tension on the winch  and ease it out.  A reasonable process but not nearly so fast as reaching back (to the aft traveler on the P39) and popping the sheet from the cam cleat.  You can also dump the traveler and that might be enough if the puff isn't too big.  Regardless of the method I would want a dedicated main trimmer in position in the companionway in puffy conditions. 

Second looks like a 4:1 sheet which will also need to be on a winch.  Both run forward to the mast base and then back to the cabin top winch.  Fine.  But more friction.  Maybe a bit less on the 3:1 setup?  I would spend a bit extra to have very good ball bearing blocks to minimize friction. 

The P39 is a significantly larger boat than my 10M so it's probably not fair to apply my standards of access for trim adjustment and line loads.   My 10M handles like a big dingy in 20 knots with everything right at hand and easy to work (unless I'm stupid and fly too much sail).   Regardless, I would give careful consideration to how the boat will be single-handing and how any mods like this might affect that. 

The 39 was supposedly Bill Shaw's favorite Pearson design (Sorry P36ers...he must have forgotten about you).  They are fine handling boats and that centerboard has great advantages in thin water. 

Dan Pfeiffer

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[basil rowland]

Excellent points Dan - what I'm planning to do is sail her for a season and then decide if I want to move forward with moving the traveler since it affects what I might do with a new dodger/bimini setup (and my wallet!).  Would like a little more coverage for that long, very comfortable cockpit....  Having sailed a few dinghies, I can appreciate having one hand on the tiller, and the other on the mainsheet with a good heal and playing the puffs.... 

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[Jeff Griglack]

I had heard that the 365 was Bill Shaw's favorite design.  In fact, it looks like so many different boats were his favorite design that maybe they all were.  :)

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| Jeff Griglack             "Jabberwocky" P-365 #269

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| "Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent"
|                   - Walt Kelly
| 'Years ago my mother used to say to me, she'd say, "In this
| world, Elwood, you must be" – she always called me Elwood –
| "In this world, Elwood, you must be oh so smart or oh so pleasant."
| Well, for years I was smart. I recommend pleasant. You may quote me.'
|               —James Stewart as Elwood P. Dowd
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On Mon, Mar 10, 2025 at 5:19 PM Dan Pfeiffer <d...@pfeiffer.net> wrote:

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[basil rowland]

Great point and a great way to look at it  :D

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[Dan Pfeiffer]

Here is a possible deal on a 367 AKA 36 Cutter.  This is a higher performing version of the 365 with a deeper keel and taller rig.  Bill Shaw took two more steps from the 365 starting point after this for the 385 and the ultimate evolution of the line, the 386 which is very rare indeed (and quite nice).

This is a refit-in-progress sale and could be a good find for a handy individual?  Or maybe not...

https://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/103958