P424 Engine Mount Replacement

[ssmit...@aol.com]

Hi,

I have a 1978 P424 that needs to have the engine mounts replaced. It seems they are attached to a fiberglass pan, and I can't access the bolts underneath without cutting some of the floor out.

Has anyone undertaken this job before? Ideas?

BTW, I will be offering this boat for sale, if anyone is interested.

Regards,

Sharon

[Peter Ogilvie]

Engine mounts are often lag bolted Into the beds so no nuts, just unscrew them.  You may have gotten lucky if you haven’t already tried to undue the fasteners.

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[ssmit...@aol.com]

Hi,

Nope, no lag bolts , which we were expecting. Nuts and bolts.

Thx,

Sharon

[Ed Criscuolo]

Yes, the P323 has the same arrangement: engine mounts nut-and-bolted to a fiberglass pan.  But in the P323, I’m able to access the nuts (barely). 

@(^.^)@ Ed

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 13, 2023, at 3:44 PM, 'ssmit...@aol.com' via pearson-boats <pearso...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

Hi,

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[Dave Cole]

The bolts are expendable..  Consider cutting them off with a grinder, sawsall etc.  Then the trick will be, how do you replace them.

Dave

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[ssmit...@aol.com]

Dave, yes the problem is then inserting the bolts up through the pan and tightening the nuts down.

[Dave Cole]

Can you snake a wire from the bolt hole to somewhere outside of the pan?  Could be 2+ feet away?

Dave

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[ssmit...@aol.com]

???? I have to be able to hold the bolt with a wrench while tightening the nut....

[Dave Cole]

Ive used these before.  You have to get really creative in situations like this.

CURT 58400 18-Inch Trailer Hitch Fish Wire for 1/2-Inch Diameter Bolts https://a.co/d/iRNQ3xo

[Dave Cole]

Not if you can get to the end of the bolt.  You only need to be able to access one side.

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[ssmit...@aol.com]

I can't envision how I can hold a bolt firm enough with this wire to tighten a nut into it.

[Dave Cole]

So the spring thing or something like that is used to get the bolt
into the hole. Keep in mind that you can also pull a washer through
with the bolt with that spring tool. You can also make your own
spring tool if you can find some "piano wire". It used to be sold in
hardware stores

How do you hold the bolt in place to tighten it?

There are at least two different ways to do this.

1. There is the double nut method. You hold the bolt in place with a
double nut and tighten the nut below the double nut to draw up the
bolt. So 3 nuts are needed.
Here is a video showing how you can use a double nut to drive a stud
in this case. But you can see how the double nut can hold the bolt
in place. A couple combination - box and open end wrenches work well
for this, but you can do it with two adjustable wrenches as well.
Note which nut he is holding when he drives the stud into the wood.
You typically cannot do this if you hold the other (lower) nut.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/L0mOkDvZ6hU

2. You can grind flats on the end of your bolt and hold it in place
with an adjustable wrench to prevent it from turning while you tighten
the nut.
I can't find a video on youtube on how to do this, but the idea is to
make a place for the adjustable wrench to grab onto at the very end of
your threaded bolt. Use that to hold the bolt in place as you
tighten the nut.
Before you do the grinding, spin a nut onto the bolt. When you
remove the nut, the nut will round over any burrs where created when
you did the grinding and make it much easier to get a nut onto the
bolt. Also I recommend holding the bolt in a vice if you are using a
handheld grinder. If using a bench grinder keep in mind that the
bolt will get hot. Keep some water nearby to dip it occasionally, to
cool it off. In both this method and the prior, you will need a
longer than normal bolt.

I have a drain plug in my 10M and it is a stainless steel carriage
bolt with flats ground onto the end of the bolt.
I push the bolt into the hole with some gasket caulk on the threads
and head, climb into the boat and place a few fender washers over the
bolt, a lockwasher and a nut. Then snug up the nut, put an
adjustable wrench on the flats and tighten the nut down on the bolt.

So the challenge you have is snaking a bolt up and through the motor
mount hole. The rest of it is pretty simple.

Dave
10M #26

On Wed, Sep 13, 2023 at 5:11 PM 'ssmit...@aol.com' via pearson-boats

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[Dave Cole]

This is a better video:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/kk1J6vxBPm8

[Peter Trunfio]

Ah…I get it…

You don’t have to tighten the “bottom” nut (under the 2x4 in the video, or under the fiberglass pan in the boat).

You just have to get a nut “under” the hole (using the fishing tape, etc.), then thread a bolt onto it.

Then you use nuts on the bolt to “draw up” the bottom nut/bolt up tight to the pan…

Brilliant…

PMT

Peter M. Trunfio

+1.917.640.6450 (c)

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[Dave Cole]

The hard part may be getting the bolt in place. Or it may be easy, in
which case none of this is difficult. (Wishful thinking!)

Dave 10M #26

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[ssmit...@aol.com]

Thank you for the suggestions. I will share this with the "mechanic."

Sharon

[Daniel Hoffman]

My Yanmar 2GM is rocking a lot at idle. I didn't like the looks of the motor mounts when I got the boat 5 years ago. The Yanmar 2GM/3GM manual says that they should be replaced every 4 years or 1000 hours, so I ordered a set of 4.

There are YouTube videos. 

Perhaps failing mounts is what caused shaft wear and damaged the cutlass bearing. 

Daniel Hoffman 

Fourth and Goal

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[Bob Maxwell]

Yes, if the motor alignment shifts it can rapidly wear the bearing. 

Bob

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[George DuBose]

Just be sure that you install the engine mounts in the correct positions. There should be two different "strengths".

George/Skylark

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