Aluminum Portholes 1976 Pearson 10M

[Charles Bachmann]

Good evening  everyone  

The Aluminum  portholes  on my  Pearson 10 M are looking drab ...

is there any way to bring some life back to them  .

Is  there an effective  polish  or wax  that will put some  luster  back  .

I was also thinking about maybe  removing them  in the  off season  and painting them   ( they do leak  and need to be rebedded).

Any thoughts  on  this subject would be greatly  appreciated.. 

[Jeff Griglack]

If you are going to remove them in the off season for painting, you might want to look into having them anodized or powder coated (not sure if you can powder coat aluminum).  That will go a long way to dressing them up.

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| Jeff Griglack             "Jabberwocky" P-365 #269

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| "Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent"
|                   - Walt Kelly
| 'Years ago my mother used to say to me, she'd say, "In this
| world, Elwood, you must be" – she always called me Elwood –
| "In this world, Elwood, you must be oh so smart or oh so pleasant."
| Well, for years I was smart. I recommend pleasant. You may quote me.'
|               —James Stewart as Elwood P. Dowd
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[Peter McGowan]

Are they the same as the Pearson 36?  Mine are all removed right now and I’m trying to decide if i’ll have a go a refurbishing them or just going with acrylic attached with UHB on the outside then glazed with Dow 795.

 Many seem to have had success with the latter, and there is the benefit of only having to worry about sealing one joint.  But it changes the look of the boat a bit for sure. 

Far as I can see the framed ones have two joints to worry about, the joint between the aluminum frame and the deck, and the joint between the frame and the lens.  My lens are all installed inside the aluminum portlight frame with a vinyl u-channel and then glazed externally with a bead of clear silicone.  I’m not sure if the silicone was added by an owner or during manufacturing, but either way I’m assuming the U-channel alone doesn’t effectively seal the lens into the frame.

If I refurb i’ll sand blast and powder coat after removing existing lenses and vinyl u-channel.  I will not trust the vinyl u-channel for a watertight seal and immediately go with an external bead of clear silicone after putting them back together.  

Also, I should mention that I filled and faired the joint between the inner liner and the deck around all the deadlights, as the portlights “clamp” this joint so the less it moves about the better.

On Sat, Jul 17, 2021 at 9:23 PM Charles Bachmann <Cbach...@outlook.com> wrote:

Good evening  everyone  

The Aluminum  portholes  on my  Pearson 10 M are looking drab ...

is there any way to bring some life back ogetto them  .

Is  there an effective  polish  or wax  that will put some  luster  back  .

I was also thinking about maybe  removing them  in the  off season  and painting them   ( they do leak  and need to be rebedded).

Any thoughts  on  this subject would be greatly  appreciated.. 

[Robert Franklin]

Sounds like you have a lot of skill work with materials.  I have a P36 and try to maintain the original look as much as possible except when a practical change trumps an aesthetic one.

There was quite an extensive thread on these original windows in the distant past.  You could probably find it or someone in the group will do so for you.  I think the problem with the windows is overrated along with solutions that are over thought, if you get my meaning.

As I recall, the problem had little to do with the basic design, but a lot to do with configuration of the inner and outer skins of the cabin at the location of the windows.  Think for example of trying to seal something that has is wavy instead of flat.  That is the situation.  The skins are not parallel.  With the windows removed use a caliper and you will see that the width of the border of the window opening varies considerably. 

So you might seal and clamp the inner and outer frames tight at one point only to have it loose at another.  The solution, I believe proposed by Dan Pfieffer and endorsed by others is to fill the gap between the skins so that you have an inside-the-cabin surface that is approximately the same distance all around from the outer surface of the cabin.  Once that is accomplished, and it's probably not a casual easy job, the window should fit well and be tight.  A little gasketing or sealant should make the windows water tight for a long time.

That would be my approach and I have to do it because I didn't have that good advice when I rebedded mine 15 years ago.

The other thing to consider that you may already be aware of is the glass or acrylic that is the correct thickness to go into the window channel is not available.  At least I could not find it.  This is a problem if your glass is cracked or cloudy.  I don't recall the solution, but I am sure someone has one.  If the window is to be acrylic, I guess the edge could be carefully ground down the slight amount needed for a good fit.

I like the original look which is smooth and unobtrusive.

Bob Franklin

P36 "ARION"

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[George DuBose]

I had Skylark's portlight frames powdercoated TWICE.

The stainless steel screws that hold the inner frame to the outer frame
caused corrosion of the aluminum and blistered the inner frame's
powdercoating finish.

When I installed the inner frames this time, I found aluminum screws
with hex sockets from Taiwan and that solved the corrosion problem.

You all know that I fixed 1/2" Lexan with 3M VHB tape to the outer
frame and then bonded the assembly to the cabin top with butyl rubber
and then Sikaflexed the gap between the Lexan and the cabin top.

For the first time since I bought Skylark, her portlights don't leak.
...and they are probably bulletproof.

George/Skylark

now cruising the coast of Galicia towards La Rochelle.

https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJj5SXLRLt6wnsNnJqvTRC5hThdX%2BpAbE7Wu%2BX5T2mmVWRXX%2BA%40mail.gmail.com.
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George DuBose
Wiedstrasse 16
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Germany
Mobile: +49.160.481.1234
Skype: georgedubose or call +1.347.284.6443

Video interview on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wcOxW65Xe10&feature=youtu.be

Personal website:
http://www.george-dubose.com

Galleries:
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http://www.modernrocksgallery.com/george-dubose-photographer
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https://classicrockphotography.jp/?s=George+DuBose
https://www.globalgalleries.org/
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http://www.artforum-culture-foundation.org/

Short video of Skylark's vacation:
https://vimeo.com/133183259
Password: SkylarkNY

S/V Skylark
Compagnieshaven
Enkhuizen, NL

[Peter McGowan]

Interesting.  

I was planning powdercoating only the external surface of the glass frame, as that’s the only part that’s currently coated (though most of the coating is flaking/peeling off).   The inner frame appears to be anodized.

I recall reading on this forum that the vinyl gasket on it’s own won’t stop leaks, and there’s plenty of silicone on the portlights so that’s evidence enough for me that the gasket’s not worth keeping, especially given that 3/16” laminated glass isn’t readily available.  So I’ll likely follow a bunch of members here - toss the gasket then go with 1/4” laminated glass and Dow 795 for glazing, then install with butyl. 

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/20210720192522993047.7ff3ad5d%40george-dubose.com.

[Robert Franklin]

How will anyone ever appreciate Skylark as you do?

I can a little because I have the twin and know what you got.

Bob

On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 1:25 PM George DuBose <bo...@george-dubose.com> wrote:

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/20210720192522993047.7ff3ad5d%40george-dubose.com.