Pearson 30 Cockpit Cubby Trim

[Herbert Lape]

The teak border trim around my cockpit cubbies on my Pearson 30 is shot. I was thinking that some rubberized substitute would be cheaper and easier to mount. Anybody out there come up with a good way to replace this trim that is easy and cost effective? Thanks, Herb

BTW, My rudder work(epoxying the bushings and adding bolts into the aluminum head through the rudder stock) has gone very well thanks to advice and expertise on this board.

[JR Maxwell]

I came to the same conclusion some years ago. I used this trim in white.  It's not elegant, and if you slide up against it very hard, it comes loose, but it's quite easy to push back into position.  Every few years, I just throw it away and put on a new piece.  More comfortable to sit against than the teak was, too.

http://www.westmarine.com/taco--flexible-trim--P024_724_001_008

Bob

P-30 #940

On Mon, Jun 9, 2014 at 12:54 PM, Herbert Lape <lape...@gmail.com> wrote:

The teak border trim around my cockpit cubbies on my Pearson 30 is shot. I was thinking that some rubberized substitute would be cheaper and easier to mount. Anybody out there come up with a good way to replace this trim that is easy and cost effective? Thanks, Herb

BTW, My rudder work(epoxying the bushings and adding bolts into the aluminum head through the rudder stock) has gone very well thanks to advice and expertise on this board.

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[Mike Mayer]

Someone else had mentioned this also for trim:

Trim Quickedge White Softone Alum Core

			Trim Quickedge White Softone Alum Core Sof-Tone White. For 3/16" to 1/4" edges.
			View on store.hamiltonmarine...	Preview by Yahoo

 

 

Slan go Foill,  (Gaelic  "bye for now")
Mike

Semper Paratus
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[Jeff Griglack]

Not a bad solution. Mine just have new edges, the way I got the boat from the P0. What size did you get. I asume it would be either 5/32" or 1/4".

Of course, putting teak allows gm To even out the edges. Mine are not quite symetrical (if you care about such things).

Jeff

[Robert Franklin]

I am familiar with the Taco product.  I use it for the alcove trim, but I am not thrilled with it.  I think the teak was a bad idea.

Before the teak trim, which I like even less than the Taco, Pearson used a smooth white rubber trim that was subtle and looked like trim should.  I have not been able to locate something like it and I've tried.

So, if anyone knows what i am talking about and has an idea for a source, please let us all know.

Bob Franklin

On Mon, Jun 9, 2014 at 12:54 PM, Herbert Lape <lape...@gmail.com> wrote:

The teak border trim around my cockpit cubbies on my Pearson 30 is shot. I was thinking that some rubberized substitute would be cheaper and easier to mount. Anybody out there come up with a good way to replace this trim that is easy and cost effective? Thanks, Herb

BTW, My rudder work(epoxying the bushings and adding bolts into the aluminum head through the rudder stock) has gone very well thanks to advice and expertise on this board.

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[RICHARD USEN]

I glued mine up out of 3/8” teak. I made the front and rear out of half round curved pieces that I sawed out of the plank attached to two flat pieces. I made a rabbet shape for the molding by gluing on 3/8 x 3/8 strips and two curved pieces that created two nice L-shaped ovals. They were much easier to make than write about them here. After 6 coats of Epifanes they looked great. When I got them to the boat, I enlarged the opening in the cuddy to fit the teak and bolted them to the coaming. Using bungs to hide the heads. More varnish on the bungs and they were done. It probably took an hour to glue up the blanks out of a  piece of 3/8 teak maybe 6 x 24. You need (4) curved ends, two strips about an inch by the length required and enough scrap to glue up the L shape.

 

Dick Usen

T-33 #100

Hopscotch

Boston

[RICHARD USEN]

Hell, it was shot when they installed it at the yard. I made new pieces, gluing up an L shaped oval. It looks great. It was easy to do w/o a router (which scares me).

 

Dick Usen

T-33 #100

Hopscotch

Boston

 

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[Gene Smith]

If it is like the 323 coaming box trim use this template to make your own.

Remember to leave the mountings crews a little loose since the expansion rate of the starboard is greater than the fiberglass liner.

[Jason]

That will come in handy for me as well.  Thanks for the diagram

Sent from my iPhone

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<coamingBox2.jpg>

<Box plates.pdf>