Pearson 26 Running Rigging Lengths

[brian]

Hello All - 

I just acquired a Pearson 26 H# 1486.  The sheets were all rotten, so I'm replacing them.  I looked around on this forum, and found a little about mainsheet length, but it looks like I'm doing the whole she-bang.

Per Dan P's specs, the sheet lengths for the Pearson 26 are:

RUNNING
  Line          Size    Length
  main H        3/8      60'
  jib H         3/8      65'
  spin H        5/16     65'
  outhaul       1/4      20'(plus 7' 3/32 ss wire (7x19))
  downhaul      1/4       8'
  traveler      1/4      15'
  topping L     1/4      17'
  pole lift     1/4      50'
  pole DH       1/4      10'
  backstay adj  5/16     20'
  mainsheet     3/8      65'
  jib sheet     3/8      35'
  spin sheet    5/16     45'
  asym sheets   3/8      55'

I'll probably skip the shaded items, 'cuz I have no spinnaker.

Does anyone have any opinions or experience with these - basically what are the "watch-outs" I can avoid?

Thanks In Advance,

Brian

[RICHARD USEN]

Yup. Treat all lists like this w/ a grain of salt. Your boat may have halyards lead to the cockpit, for instance which would make them longer than stock halyards.

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[PQU...@aol.com]

I see that Dan's site specs still include 7' of wire on the outhaul. Interestingly, the last couple of America's Cup monohulls had NO wire - not standing or running rigging. So think about that. Strength-for-strength, today's high-tech ropes are generally superior to their wire counterparts.

 

I would use Amsteel line all the way through the outhaul system. If I was planning to race I'd probably put 6 or 8:1 in the boom, with another 2:1 outside, between the main's clew and the end of the boom. On our racing boats we used Harken's model #140 swiveling block and cam cleat, mounted on the mast below the boom. This allows rail meat to turn around and adjust the outhaul without moving much. 

 

Peter ~~~~~~_/) ~~~~~~~

Lake Ontario, at Rochester, NY

[Dan Pfeiffer]

A couple things about of my list. It's not that it still includes anything, it represents what my P26 had circa 1997 or so.  And if you look at the list it does say."Halyard lengths are at the mast.  Add 10' to run back to cockpit.".    Again is is a snapshot of P26 #1205 in 1997.

 

There are certainly things I would do differently today.  I agree with Peter about using Amsteel for the main out haul.  On the P26 I would do cascading blocks inside the boom (less chance to tangle and twist I think) for a 8:1 purchase.  6:1 would also be fine though maybe not workable with a cascade system?  I would make it exit as I did a couple feet aft of the gooseneck and have the part you handle be 5/16 or 1/4" line of your favorite flavor (StaSet would be fine).  On mine it would have been an easy matter to run the line back to the cockpit if desired.  I did not.  I would not add any purchase externally (better to keep clear of reefing gear I think) however I made a slick exit block on the top of the boom for the wire and that is more than a simple re-fitting though not too hard.    And being able to move the outhaul to the reef clew is really useful for getting a good flat shape from the reefed main.  I had a loop of line on the reef clew that reached to a snap shackle on the outhaul. 

 

One mod I never made and would have had I kept the P26 would be to fix the sliding gooseneck on the boom so it didn't slide up/down and replace the boom downhaul with a winch to tension the main halyard.  You could use the downhaul gear for a cunningham.   The most useful application for this mod is when you are trying to reef.  The downhaul and sliding gooseneck is clumsy and difficult for this and a winch for the main halyard on the mast would be far-far superior.  As in way better. 

 

As for line in general I would just use basic StaSet or equivilent for everything (except the Amsteel as mentioned above) and not waste effort or expense on more exotic line.  If you want to race you'll get more results from practice and a good teacher than any hardware upgrade you could make. And my guess is #1486 isn't headed that way or you would be specing out spinnaker gear?    Also the masthead sheaves should be fine for all rope especially a non-exotic like StaSet.   And I would color code the line.  I used blue for main, red/green for port/starboard jib, etc.  Make it logical. 

 

On my P26 I cut out the masthead fitting to run halyards inside the mast. I did that only on the starboard side and ran the main and a starboard jib halyard down inside to exits a few feet above head height.  I had another jib halyard runnig external on the port side.  It could serve as a backup to the main as well if needed.  And there was a spin halyard that I also ran inside through an exit slot below the masthead.  All my exit slots were simple cutouts in the mast that I filed rounded and smoothed edges on.  No fanct exit plates needed and just a bit larger that the line.  Maybe 1/2"?  Worked great.  I think I did the same for the pole lift.  There are some photos here:

http://dan.pfeiffer.net/p26/internalhalyards.htm

This was an easy and nice mod that made things nice and tidy. 

 

Dan Pfeiffer

 

 

 

 

----- Original Message -----

[Fbrowe2]

Check out www.theropedope.com for running rigging. I am not affiliated in any way. I always buy from Frank at the boat shows. Cheapest I have seen.


Sent from Samsung Conquer™ 4G

[PQU...@aol.com]

Like Dan said; as usual.

 

Peter ~~~~~~_/) ~~~~~~~

 

In a message dated 8/14/2012 6:33:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, d...@pfeiffer.net writes:

A couple things about of my list. It's not that it still includes anything, it represents what my P26 had circa 1997 or so.  And if you look at the list it does say."Halyard lengths are at the mast.  Add 10' to run back to cockpit.".    Again is is a snapshot of P26 #1205 in 1997.

 

There are certainly things I would do differently today.  I agree with Peter about using Amsteel for the main out haul.  On the P26 I would do cascading blocks inside the boom (less chance to tangle and twist I think) for a 8:1 purchase.  6:1 would also be fine though maybe not workable with a cascade system?  I would make it exit as I did a couple feet aft of the gooseneck and have the part you handle be 5/16 or 1/4" line of your favorite flavor (StaSet would be fine).  On mine it would have been an easy matter to run the line back to the cockpit if desired.  I did not.  I would not add any purchase externally (better to keep clear of reefing gear I think) however I made a slick exit block on the top of the boom for the wire and that is more than a simple re-fitting though not too hard.    And being able to move the outhaul to the reef clew is really useful for getting a good flat shape from the reefed main.  I had a loop of line on the reef clew that reached to a snap shackle on the outhaul. 

 

One mod I never made and would have had I kept the P26 would be to fix the sliding gooseneck on the boom so it didn't slide up/down and replace the boom downhaul with a winch to tension the main halyard.  You could use the downhaul gear for a cunningham.   The most useful application for this mod is when you are trying to reef.  The downhaul and sliding gooseneck is clumsy and difficult for this and a winch for the main halyard on the mast would be far-far superior.  As in way better. 

 

As for line in general I would just use basic StaSet or equivilent for everything (except the Amsteel as mentioned above) and not waste effort or expense on more exotic line.  If you want to race you'll get more results from practice and a good teacher than any hardware upgrade you could make. And my guess is #1486 isn't headed that way or you would be specing out spinnaker gear?    Also the masthead sheaves should be fine for all rope especially a non-exotic like StaSet.   And I would color code the line.  I used blue for main, red/green for port/starboard jib, etc.  Make it logical. 

 

On my P26 I cut out the masthead fitting to run halyards inside the mast. I did that only on the starboard side and ran the main and a starboard jib halyard down inside to exits a few feet above head height.  I had another jib halyard runnig external on the port side.  It could serve as a backup to the main as well if needed.  And there was a spin halyard that I also ran inside through an exit slot below the masthead.  All my exit slots were simple cutouts in the mast that I filed rounded and smoothed edges on.  No fanct exit plates needed and just a bit larger that the line.  Maybe 1/2"?  Worked great.  I think I did the same for the pole lift.  There are some photos here:

http://dan.pfeiffer.net/p26/internalhalyards.htm

This was an easy and nice mod that made things nice and tidy. 

 

Dan Pfeiffer

 

 

 

 

----- Original Message -----

From: PQU...@aol.com

To: pearso...@googlegroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 5:54 PM

Subject: Re: [pearson ] Pearson 26 Running Rigging Lengths

I see that Dan's site specs still include 7' of wire on the outhaul. Interestingly, the last couple of America's Cup monohulls had NO wire - not standing or running rigging. So think about that. Strength-for-strength, today's high-tech ropes are generally superior to their wire counterparts.

 

I would use Amsteel line all the way through the outhaul system. If I was planning to race I'd probably put 6 or 8:1 in the boom, with another 2:1 outside, between the main's clew and the end of the boom. On our racing boats we used Harken's model #140 swiveling block and cam cleat, mounted on the mast below the boom. This allows rail meat to turn around and adjust the outhaul without moving much. 

 

Peter ~~~~~~_/) ~~~~~~~

Lake Ontario, at Rochester, NY

 

In a message dated 8/14/2012 5:27:23 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, use...@verizon.net writes:

Yup. Treat all lists like this w/ a grain of salt. Your boat may have halyards lead to the cockpit, for instance which would make them longer than stock halyards.

 

From: pearso...@googlegroups.com [mailto:pearso...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of brian
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 5:17 PM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [pearson ] Pearson 26 Running Rigging Lengths

 

Hello All - 

[Jeff Griglack]

I agree.  I have bought several things from him and it has always been quality stuff.

-----------------------------------------------------------------
| Jeff Griglack               "Blithe Spirit" P-30  #182
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| "Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow
| permanent"  -- Walt Kelly

[Mukhbir Singh]

Thank you gentlemen for putting this info together, as a person who bought a well loved boat recently. This is great help. Would appreciate if someone could point me in the right direction for getting a reasonably priced Asymmetrical Spinnaker for this boat.

Cheers

M

[Peter Ogilvie]

EBay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sent from my iPhone.  

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