Need some recommendations for materials on a hull topside repaint job on my 10M

[Dave Cole]

My 10M hull topside was repainted probably 20 years ago with a two part system.   I have no idea what materials they used but it has been very durable.

The paint is beginning to fail (I believe) and small dime size or smaller blisters are appearing.  They are darkish in color.

I think the boat likely had a few blisters before prior to the past paint job and they were ground out and filled in and now the paint surface is failing, moisture is getting behind the paint into the filler and recreating the blisters.

Or perhaps this is just how this paint fails.  I'm not sure.  

So I'm looking for suggestions on what materials to use.   I think I need to grind these out, fill and fair, and then prime, sand and topcoat.  That will take a few days at the marina!  

I can't spray paint at the marina.  So it's going to be rolled.

I'm very hesitant to use any two part final finishes as the painting environment is far from ideal.  

What do you suggest?   The only topside enamel I have used is Rustoleum Marine paint and it has held up very well on the transom.   

I applied 2 coats probably 10 years ago.  No chipping at all.  No signs of paint failure.  For some reason the paint on the transom was a mess when I bought the boat.

Blister picture below.   The bottom blister is probably dime sized.    I probably have 30-40 on each side of the boat.  

Has anyone used Jamestown TotalBoat epoxy fairing compound?  

Thanks,  Dave

10M #26

 

[George Dubose]

FWIW, I have been painting Skylark's topsides off and on for 18 years. The last time I made trouble for myself by using the wrong rollers, not having enough light to see runs, etc. I would up sanding and painting the topsides 3 times.

I learned the importance of using the correct 2-component rollers. I had previously experimented with "rolling and tipping" but found that just rolling with the right roller was best.

A cool (not cold) day in the spring before the bugs get too plentiful and it isn't raining are good conditions.

However, all the sanding and painting of above and below the waterlines, adding water barriers and so on has given me bursitis in my right shoulder and an excuse to pay other people to do this work. I have had enough experience...at 73.

Anybody want to crew from Sardinia to Malta?

George

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[Jeff Griglack]

I once roll and tip painted a boat using Interlux Interthane (2 part), but I found it a little touchy to environmental conditions.  It came out with a little egg shell effect.

My current boat was painted about 2 owners ago, some time in the 90s.  They used Dupont Imron, so I'm guessing it was sprayed.  Despite it's age, and a few places where it was patched with other paint, it still looks good.  Unfortunately, Imron is always custom mixed, so I don't know quite how I would get new paint to match.

I have had good luck painting with Petite Easypoxy and Interlux Brightside.  I have also used Totalboat Wet Edge.  These are all 1 part polyurethanes, and are easier to apply than the 2 part ones, but not nearly as durable.  If you use a 1 part, you will probably want to redo it every 5 to 8 years.

Jeff

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[Dave Cole]

Did the one part paints that you mention all act pretty much the same when applying?   Any noticable difference in durability? 

I agree, a two part paint would be much more durable.  But Id be happy if I got 8 years out of a paint job with a one part paint.  

Thanks,  Dave

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[Jeff Griglack]

I haven't done a real comparison or study of it, but you can find one here: https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/paints/topside-paint-endurance-test-3-year-checkup

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[Stephen Craft]

Hi Dave,

I used Alexseal to paint my cockpit and top hatch cover.  A friend showed me a great trick.  You can mix the two parts and keep them refrigerated overnight.  It turned out for me this was the perfect consistency.  roll and tip.  add non skid powder and those areas are easier to paint.

Stephen

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