--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boat...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAD5jJo05i9rppzQB9fyrTkVRsGwEMT%2BKaKUBneRb93Gcb%3DzD0A%40mail.gmail.com.
Hardly overpriced at $2000. The (3) ST winches alone are worth that. That boat could be parted out to net 7K or more? Or, it probably needs 5K to get it sailing unless it needs an engine? The boat looks relatively good in the photos. If the hull was toast I'd love to get the rig. Or do you mean it's not worth it because it is a P36-2 and not the incomparable P36-1?
Dan Pfeiffer
On 2025-06-09 4:26 pm, Robert Franklin wrote:
Dave et als.If you are savvy enough (which I know from our years together on this Pearson site, you are) to have read the full ad, you will realize that this is not the IOR classic P36 from 1970 -1974, which George Dubose, a member of our group owns, and can espouse the virtues of with profound authority. Version 1, as I the classic is usually referred to, is nothing like the one you forwarded, an entirely different boat P36(2) for sale at $2,000 and probably overpriced at that!
....
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boat...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/5ed8268d11bbc3a7803bd316f33bf10e%40pfeiffer.net.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boat...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/5ed8268d11bbc3a7803bd316f33bf10e%40pfeiffer.net.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAODnOUafK5dYXf3jY%3DgNt_XocT%2BXFSSHt2Q%2BwNTDndhmvZwdtA%40mail.gmail.com.
ACK! You really gotta get your head out of the clouds over the 36-1. Its a good production boat from the 70's. Not a great one. A good one. Above average. But no better or worse than any other Pearson.
You are right that the 10M is not a P36 (and why are you even bringing that up?). But it is every bit as well built and good sailing - and it's not all that well built from a blue-water design perspective, just like every other Pearson of this era. There are indeed differences from the 36 to the 10M but in terms of design philosophy they are more similar than different. I would say the 10M is actually a bit of a refinement in that philosophy without some of the IOR shape anomalies that are present in the 36 (see the quite narrow stern and bustle at about station 9). And I suspect the 10M will be generally better behaved downwind in large following seas (mine is a gem and I am rigged for and seek out force 6 and 7 conditions). But for any boat, if you keep from pushing to the extremes of the performance envelope you will generally be fine. Including quirky old IOR designs. Not that the 36 is all that quirky, it's just quirkier than the 10M.
Here are 10 blue water disqualifying construction details on Pearson's of this era (10M and 36 included)
1. Secondary bonding for key structural components (like bulkheads and keel grid)
2. Chopper gun made inner skin on cored deck (weak but cheap)
3. Mild steel mast steps (can lead to dangerous erosion of base of mast)
4. Bolt-on keel (maybe debatable)
5. too small keel bolts (5/8? Really?)
6. No water tight bulkheads
7. Fiberglass interior liner limiting access to hull inner surface
8. No seals on cockpit lockers
9. No longitudinal stringers
10. Lack of tabbing in areas the builders just couldn't reach during construction
I could go on ... cabin windows are too big...
Some of these are easy to deal with, some are not. Number one is as far as you really need to go for disqualification. It's what put Uma on the total rebuild path. If you don't understand what this is all about you probably aren't qualified to make a determination of what is blue water capable. But you can learn.
A couple positives on the 10M and probably the 36 for blue water use
The rudder skeg is properly strong (I have seen it tested)
The rig is overbuilt by a considerable safety factor (over 4.5 for the 10M - typical is 3.0)
The hull is quite strong (would be better with primary bonded stringers and keel grid)
The cockpit is quite safe and not too big (could use more drainage and seals on hatches)
Very good bridge deck
Uma has shown us the limits of the P36 and they are about 1/3 to 1/2 below what they did with it. It was falling apart. That's why the total freakin' rebuild. To remake it into something it never was and never was intended to be. And good on them. They came to understand the boats inherent limitations. But don't take it as an example of what a P36 can be. It's not a P36 anymore.
As for being out on the ocean in 60 knots and 6 foot seas? (More like 26 foot seas with that wind but I digress...) Don't do that. Don't even think of doing that in a P36 or a Pearson anything. They were not made for that. They just weren't. There may be some exceptions with the earlier designer builds (Alden, Tripp, Rhodes, Alberg) but it depends on how they were built and I wouldn't be surprised that, despite fine designer pedigrees, corners may have been cut in the production (secondary bonded structural components?). I haven't had the experience with those models to say. And they are very old by now with plenty of fatigue (the coffin nail for all our boats). But Ive had lots with the later era boats. They are fine and above average production boats that compare well to their peers (C&C, Columbia, Catalina, Hunter,...) but they were not built to cross oceans. Get over it. If you want to do that get a boat actually made to deal with it. It will not be a Pearson (maybe a Contessa or Halberg Rassy, Ruslter,...). And for God's sake, do not confuse luck for validation. You want to get out there on a real ocean? Get a real ocean boat. If you think a Pearson is that then you need to school yourself. You're not ready.
In the mean time enjoy your Pearson for what it was intended. It is very good indeed for that. And all this is not a knock on Pearsons. They are great boats. It's just a reality check on what they are and what they are actually capable of (or aren't in this case).
Sorry, Dan Pfeiffer
Attached is a photo of an indestructible, built-like-a-tank, bullet proof, overbuilt, can take anything, Pearson Alberg 35. Granted it was washed up in a storm, not beat to death in 60 knots in the open ocean.
I've done this more than once. It is not a big money maker for sure. Closer to break even? A bit better than that. It is a great way to learn about boat construction by dissecting one. I've learned a lot that way. It's a lot easier than you would like to think to tear one of these apart. Once all the hardware was off I would say 20 to 30 hrs of work and a dumpster and you would never know it was there. You need a sawsall and about 2 dozen demolition blades. Maybe 3 dozen. You may get close to $2000 recycling the keel. The rig has a lot of potential value if you can find a buyer. It's not easy to transport. 55 feet?
This one certainly doesn't look beyond salvation from what I can see. But Bob is right that not everyone is skilled to do it. Certainly not a bargain for someone who wasn't.
Dan Pfeiffer
I offer Dan and Kika as the best example I've ever seen of how not to own a boat ... and it happens to be a (ruined) P36.
The hull reinforcement that Uma is getting is how Pearsons should
have been built to begin with. Using rolls of fiberglass cloth to
fix a floor?
Once all the layup production weak points are fixed, these
Pearsons are wonderful boats.
Except for lack of storage, fuel and water capacity...
George/Skylark
-- George DuBose www.george-dubose.com Wiedstrasse 16 D-50859 Cologne Germany
No, you can't "fix" the secondary bonding issue. You can reinforce and add more secondary bonding but it's still not the best way to build a blue water boat. All the structural components (bulkheads, stringers, floors, engine beds, etc) should be done integral with the hull layup for primary bonding. Adding more secondary bonded structure will help but not as much as building it right from the outset would have. And to add it right you MUST remove all the old and replace it. You cant add more over the inferior polyester secondary bonding to "make" it stronger.
Steel mast step can be replaced. Of course. But that doesn't change that it wasn't right in the first place. That was the point.
What Pearson has WTB? None. That was my point. They don't. To be fair, it's likely a lot of bluewater built boats don't, but they should. There should be a crash bulkhead forward and the rudder post and stuffing box should be isolated to not be able to flood the whole boat if they leak (See J/122 Alliance from 2024 Newport Bermuda Race) .
Bronze J bolts? Swell. It's still a bolt-on keel. And if you've hit rocks, at speed, I would be very concerned about the condition of all the secondary boded components in your boat(floors and bulkheads). The tabbing of all that is likely compromised. Could be rig damage too.
wondering on best positions for slings if hoisting a P36 (-1). A picture of “Mariah” in Barrington, RI appears to be aligning the slings with the forward and aft stanchions. I’m not at my boat right now but as I recall from looking at backing plates the aft stanchions are a few inches back from the aft bulkhead (that separates the lazarettes from the main salon). I cannot picture the fore stanchions but I vaguely recall they are a few inches forward of the forward bulkhead (that separates the V-berth from the head and the locker opposite it) up inside the upper “lockers” of the v-berth. So with Mariah, the slings being within a few inches of those bulkheads seems to be acceptable at that particular yard. Follow up question - What stops slings sliding up forward/aft along the hull when the boat is being lifted? Every picture I see the straps are pretty close to vertical.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boat...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WACNxGOn5GeDg3bSZmyPeix4%2Bz34MEUZ6ot47KEVgiLR_w%40mail.gmail.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAD5jJo3rYBEkxrO5d4fK67bSLrgN0g8nyJvreD1D2Kv1Z1zgFw%40mail.gmail.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAM%2BogidP4%3D_NnfBR9STvUEPukX%2Be_QkD9wPOAsLsk_VM_F3pOg%40mail.gmail.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WAAsCmk5EdZ5LUL345mFkX%2BQxg2egtr0kV1_8u9gq1%3D0gQ%40mail.gmail.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAM%2Bogiduz0nkXncexC55BNQaSVD5fDi3LuXWPWX3oj%3DTcPTaiA%40mail.gmail.com.
On Jun 15, 2025, at 12:09 PM, Peter McGowan <mcgowa...@gmail.com> wrote:
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WAAKzrT%3D2M_K2io-CrVK2G0k4dbLNYNH7i_yY8Ws%2BX39zg%40mail.gmail.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/FEB2C263-C962-482E-9558-B1DFF9EFBA51%40gmail.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WAAHL%3DmnKNa%2BUTTA2yjR%3DwCc0FPAgnuzd_aoYF9%2Bs7vsGg%40mail.gmail.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WAAHL%3DmnKNa%2BUTTA2yjR%3DwCc0FPAgnuzd_aoYF9%2Bs7vsGg%40mail.gmail.com.