Through hull leaking... should I be worried

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Ken Martini

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May 10, 2016, 4:19:23 PM5/10/16
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Sooo.. I finally got the boat launched today.     Did a short 15 minute run under auxiliary to get from launch site to slip.

 

Started doing my check and I noticed that the Throughull for the knotmeeter transducer  has a very slight leak.

 

Note I checked before launch and outside of hull it looked fine.

The Throughull itself is fine.  Not cracked, not leaking from transducer etc.

 

Where its coming in is on the underside of the locking ring.  

The Throughull is mounted on a convex  curved surface.   And there was some sort of gasket / sealant used to fill in  the gap caused by the curve between hull and locking ring.

It looks like some of this dried up and gave way.

The leak is slow.  Like a few drops per minute.

 

I already put some quick setting epoxy putty for now. (The brown stuff you see at the base)

 

Do I need to haul?  Can I fix by just unscrewing the retainer (while in water) and put a new casket….

Should I be worried?

 

I’m not worried about loosing the through hull.. its not moving.. but how much/how fast   water could this let in if all the gasket material lets go but through hull stays in place?

 

Not the way I wanted to start sailing season.

Thanks in advance

 

 

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

20160510_135238.jpg

Bob Maxwell

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May 10, 2016, 8:36:46 PM5/10/16
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Most likely leaking between the thru-hull and the knot meter insert.  Those seals are o-rings and not likely to change rate suddenly.  You should have a blank plug that takes the place of the knot meter insert.  If so, examine the o-rings on the plug to be sure they're good. You can pull the knot meter and insert the plug.  You'll get a brief fountain until the plug is installed and snugged down.  Looks scary, but no big deal.  If the plug doesn't leak, inspect the o-rings on the knot meter.  Replace if necessary.  It can be as simple as reinstalling the knot meter insert, rotate it clockwise and counter clockwise and tighten things back up.  A little grease on the seals won't hurt.  If you're lucky, that will do it.

Bob
P30 #940

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steve_hayes_maine

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May 11, 2016, 2:25:51 PM5/11/16
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If the leak is between the insert and the through hull, then O-rings will likely cure the problem. If it is between the hull and the through hull, then you need a good patch. When I encountered a similar problem, I used a product called WetDry 700 from Progressive Epoxy (http://www.epoxyproducts.com/3_putty.html). I had a friend actually dive below the boat and apply it from the outside, as well as the inside. Underwater application is no problem, but be aware that it sets quickly and generates heat. I prepared one batch as my friend started his dive, it set too quickly and I had to make another batch when he had figured out where and how. This has held up for years and is better than the emergency putty.

The description for the product online is: "the very latest generation of underwater epoxies, Wet Dry 700 is Kevlar (tm) filled, underwater (or dry surface) epoxy paste. Thick but workable at low temperatures. Use as a thick coating or repair paste, with or without fiberglass cloth. Easy 1:1 mix ratio. Color: white.  A lot of our 1 quart kit sales are used for fiberglass swimming pool repairs underwater. This product is about wall mud thick. To make thicker (i.e. like bread dough) add some of our EZ thick thickener..." I have no connection with the vendor, but he has supplied me with many great products for my boat and his customer service is second to none.

Steve Hayes
s/v Redeemed
P323 Hull 63
Readfield, Maine

Ken Martini

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May 13, 2016, 9:13:26 AM5/13/16
to steve_hayes_maine, pearson-boats

So,,,the leak is not from the transducer.  The o rings on it are fine.   Its from under the locking ring of the Throughull part.  Whatever gasket or gasket material that was there originally used to seal it is disintegrating.

From the original picture I sent.. you can see the temporary brown putty I put in. where its leaking

 

Again its on a convex part of the hull (turn of the bilge) so as is, the locking ring would never really sit completely flat on the hull anyways.   When I pull boat at end of season… I may build this up inside of hull with fiberglass to make a flat surface.

 

Short term… I’ll look into the WetDry 700   from the inside.  (Thanks for the lead)

 

What I’m thinking to try first is to get a new gasket. (Butyle Tape? Or  WetDry 700   )   Then from the inside.   “Carefully”  Remove the locking ring.    Put in new gasket/material.  Re-add locking ring and tighten.

 

Will Butyl tape work in this application.    Can that be applied wet/Damp  or does it need to be applied dry?

 

The risk I see is that when locking ring is off… if I’m not careful   Throughull could drop out?  ( The water pressure alone should be pushing it in/ up.   Also if the Throughull spins when tightening the locking ring… I might not be able to get it tight enough.

So for safety, I might get a diver to just hold it from the outside while I do this.

 

 

When that’s my thought for a plan anyways.

 

Does that sound reasonable????

 

 

 

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

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Jeff Griglack

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May 13, 2016, 10:14:26 AM5/13/16
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I would rather seal something like this from the outside. Didn't I read that the WetDry 700 can be applied under water?  I would try to add a bead around the thru hull from the outside.

Jeff Griglack

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| Jeff Griglack                  "Blithe Spirit" P-30 #182
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| "Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent" 
|                   - Walt Kelly
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| world, Elwood, you must be" – she always called me Elwood – 
| "In this world, Elwood, you must be oh so smart or oh so pleasant." 
| Well, for years I was smart. I recommend pleasant. You may quote me.'
|               —James Stewart as Elwood P. Dowd 
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Dave Cole

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May 13, 2016, 10:19:50 AM5/13/16
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What does your marina charge to lift the boat and leave it in the slings for 30 minutes? 
 
If their charge is reasonable, I think I would do that, remove the through hull and caulk it/gasket it properly from the outside and re-install it.
 
Marinas arem't too thrilled when a boat sinks at the dock...  so they might be very cooperative.
 
Divers aren't cheap and trying to place a bead of caulk while water rushes by would be difficult at best.
 
Dave


From: pearso...@googlegroups.com [mailto:pearso...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Griglack
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 10:14 AM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [pearson ] Re: Through hull leaking... should I be worried

Bill Robart

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May 13, 2016, 11:34:09 PM5/13/16
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I'd be reluctant to use anything adhesive to do the repair. As I recall (I had the same paddle wheel) the only way to tune the paddle wheel to the flow of the water under it is to twist the thru hull itself. If you use epoxy you stand a chance of permanently adhering thru thru hull to the hull and eliminating the chance for properly tuning the paddle wheel.The leak sounds quite minor in the grand scheme of leaks so I'd try first for a temporary fix to get you thru the season.

Put the plug into the thru hull and then stick a small diameter Phillips screwdriver thru the hole in the top of the plug then some how apply pressure to hold it firmly in the hull (bungee cord/a helper etc.). Then back off the locking ring and apply some none adhesive, underwater rated bedding compound and then tighten the locking ring again and the problem should be eliminated. Apply enough compound to assure full contact with the thru hull and the locking ring. If you don't seal to both you'll likely still have seepage. 

When the boat comes out of the water in the fall you can bed it properly from the outside.

Bill
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