Pearson 30 FWC conversion

[Tim Smith]

Good morning Pearson folk. Looking for Pearson 30 owners that have done an Atomic 4 Indigo electric pump fresh water cooling conversion. Would like to see pictures of layout and mounting of pump and heat exchange, Indigo thermostat components. Thanks for any assist. Best to fellow new englanders with spring projects.

Tim 

Tim Smith

tbsm...@gmail.com

617-536-1222 D

720-530-2971 C/T

617-933-7606 F

www.linkedin.com/in/tbsmith/

 

 

[Dave Cole]

Hi Tim,

I did a "roll my own" fw conversion for my Atomic 4 a few years ago..   I used an electric pump that was originally used on a turbocharged Chevy pickup truck to drive coolant through a charge cooler.  

I bought the pump and a spare off Amazon.  It was about $80 at the time.  

I found a used Westerbeke heat exchanger on Ebay and adapted it.  The original engine driven water pump pushes raw water through the heat exchanger to a water lift muffler.

I don't think a thermostat is required.   I had one in place and I removed it.  Fewer things to break, fail, etc.  Coolant temp is 160-180 degrees typically.  I have an IR thermometer. I use it to check the engine periodically.

Plus I have an overtemp alarm switch tied to a buzzer.  

The engine block and the manifold are both cooled by the fresh water cooling system.  So the manifold should last pretty much forever.   

I think the Indigo system is likely pretty solid.  He has changed it several times over the years.  

I used a few of his ideas in my design.  His coolant screen filter idea works well.  I left it in for the first few years but removed it last year.  

I used a coolant reservoir from a Cooper Mini.   Purchased off Amazon.

I can get you more info if you would like it.  

I don't know if you are aware, but some Atomic 4's used a steel plug in the side of the block to plug the coolant system.  Steel rusts faster than cast iron.  That plug rusted through on me after I installed the FW cooling system.  I suspect the coolant loosened the rust that was plugging the leak. 

My oil turned chocolate in color due to the coolant leak into the oil system.    You can access the steel plug through  the access plate that is next to the manifold.   I found the plug, drilled it out, then tapped it and plugged it with a bolt.  

Dave

10M #26

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "pearson-boats" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to pearson-boat...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CACXvQDxWjgKQaRjyb3R11Yv2-C2_6C5DAAJ61TBxyVEqCA3ztQ%40mail.gmail.com.

[Tim Smith]

Thank you Dave. 

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAD5jJo1h8eKShrob7Q5y6JgqyvSiFqnSjrCmNdPs76bSyHcQtw%40mail.gmail.com.

[Peter McGowan]

Hey Folks,

I try to remember to open/close my seacocks a at least once a season.   The one under the head sees regular use, but the two under the cockpit scuppers may have been neglected too many times and now they’re stuck.  Well I can’t easily move them.  I haven’t taken to finding a pipe for leverage, beaten them with a rubber mallet, or taken an impact driver to them (once you take off the handle it’s a square so I could probably find a suitable socket).  But I’m going to have to try something!  What’s my best next step?  Penetrating oil? One of the above?

Any advice appreciated!

Peter

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CACXvQDwSPv1pdu%2BeGVOGLKt%2BCBBjwKTDRz_0%2B3Oa1qPXJJSznw%40mail.gmail.com.

[Peter Trunfio]

First, I would spray it with some WD-40 or PB Blaster and let it sit for a bit.

When this happened to the seacocks on the cockpit scuppers on my 10M, I used the emergency tiller as a lever on the seacock handle.

I applied [very] gentle pressure on the handle until it broke free (both port & starboard). “Give me a big enough lever, and…”

Then I removed the “cone” section of the seacocks and took them home and cleaned them up before greasing and reinstalling the cones…

Just check the weather before you take out the cones…otherwise, rainwater will fill up the boat…

PMT

Peter M. Trunfio

S/V Annandale

City Island, NY

+1.917.640.6450 (c)

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WABJM%2B6RmuGimdL1HiTSJ92VmVM-jWEOxUaxtMr4-Rg0zg%40mail.gmail.com.

[David Lidrbauch]

Your description sounds like my cone-shaped bronze seacocks.  If so, can you carefully knock from the small end side of the cone toward the handle (large) side?  

On mine that's tough, not much room to swing anything on that side, but ive had some success by loosening that side enough to release the bind, but not enough to flood the boat if the inner cone releases suddenly.

When im not in the water, i spray into the thru hull from outside and that helps a lot. And can be more aggressive.

Then remove, clean/lap the surfaces, clean again, and generous green grease everywhere before reassembling.   But, even then, if i dont work it open close a few times every time im on the boat l, it gets sticky again 

Good luck

-David Lidrbauch

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WABJM%2B6RmuGimdL1HiTSJ92VmVM-jWEOxUaxtMr4-Rg0zg%40mail.gmail.com.

[Peter McGowan]

I’m on the hard until later next month, so no worries on that front.  Good advice David and Peter, much appreciated 

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CA%2BvS7vENoDtzWJjS5W7z15ZescJ-zGaNPFtj9GcwrbWXWCY-Hg%40mail.gmail.com.

[Dan Pfeiffer]

Is this a cone type seacock?  My 1-1/2" scupper drains are cylinder type with a lock on the opposite side from the handle.  You can see one pretty well in this photo:
http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/edrive_battery_beds_IMG_20210620_200259.jpg
http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/edrive_IMG_20210710_173326.jpg
You said you have a square boss left when the handle is off so yours are probably different.  Worth a check though. 

Also, if there is a drain port on the side be sure it is not interfering with the rotation of the seacock body. 

Otherewise, I like the PB Blaster or LPS KB-88 and some patience.


Dan Pfeiffer 

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CA%2BvS7vENoDtzWJjS5W7z15ZescJ-zGaNPFtj9GcwrbWXWCY-Hg%40mail.gmail.com.

[Dave Cole]

Mine were stuck years ago.  I used a little heat from a torch, just a little to warm the body of the valve.  i backed the nut off just a bit, and wacked it, at the nut, with a rubber hammer while I held onto the valve handle.  That got them free.  In hindsight, I should have used an electric heat gun instead of a torch.   Much safer.

I had it soaking in spray penetrating oil as well.

I should pull mine apart again and grease them.

Dave

10M #26

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAJF6WABJM%2B6RmuGimdL1HiTSJ92VmVM-jWEOxUaxtMr4-Rg0zg%40mail.gmail.com.

[David Lidrbauch]

The only things i can add:  1) if your seacock has plastic or rubber components don't use penetrating oil such as PB Blaster.  Degrades most plastics.  I think WD40 is okay...   

2) mine also have provisions for grease nipples  - i should remember to use those a couple times a season  

-David Lidrbauch

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/11a9932b7ebacad546e70d127d361e4a%40pfeiffer.net.

[Dave Cole]

Hi Dan,

Mine are the cone type and the handle is really long.  10-12 inches.  

Dave

10M #26

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/11a9932b7ebacad546e70d127d361e4a%40pfeiffer.net.

[George Dubose]

Skylark has her original Wilcox-Crittenden bronze seacocks. When I bought Skylark, all five seacocks were frozen. I attempted to turn them off of their thruhulls, but that only resulted in the thruhull turning. The owner of my boatyard told me how to cut off the outside of the thruhull and I then took all the seacocks to an auto garage and put them in the parts washer overnight. The next morning the seacocks all came apart easily and I polished all the parts with a wire brush on a bench grinder.

When my wife came to inspect the renovations, she saw the shiny seacocks and asked if they were new as she was worried about the cost of renovating this old gal.

"No", I told her, "I just had them gold plated to prevent corrosion..."

Whenever Skylark is on the hard, I remove all the cones and regrease them, so far after 52 years, the cones are in perfect condition with no corrosion.

George/Skylark

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAD5jJo08vUR8Q5mv4uoXmT98muh9Du77cGMofPYqveM-%2B%2BWC%2Bg%40mail.gmail.com.

-- 
George DuBose
www.george-dubose.com

Wiedstrasse 16
D-50859 Cologne
Germany

[Tim Smith]

Tight spaces for me below sink in head. I have seen, used 3/8 spring loaded center punch on the threaded end of the center axle of the cone where the retaining nuts unscrew.  combined with penetrant. 

Best, Tim

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAD5jJo08vUR8Q5mv4uoXmT98muh9Du77cGMofPYqveM-%2B%2BWC%2Bg%40mail.gmail.com.

[Peter Trunfio]

Dave,

It sounds like you have the same seacocks that I have on my 10M (10-12” handles).

Having said that, I like the suggestion from David L.

Loosen the lock/jam nut, nut, and washer on the “tapered” end of the cone (although they may be seized as well), and gently tap on that end to try and break the cone free “laterally” (i.e., knocking it out of the seacock, rather than trying to rotate it inside the seacock).

Just be careful not to whack too hard on the threaded “rod” that the jam nut and nut screw onto…the bronze is soft, and you don’t want to flatten the head or damage any threads.

Maybe a small block of wood, rather than whacking right on the bronze?

PMT

Peter M. Trunfio

S/V Annandale

City Island, NY

+1.917.640.6450 (c)

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAD5jJo08vUR8Q5mv4uoXmT98muh9Du77cGMofPYqveM-%2B%2BWC%2Bg%40mail.gmail.com.

[David Lidrbauch]

Good point Peter,

I back the nut just proud of the end of the threaded rod to protect the threads, but that's still risky.  Thin piece of hardwood, as you suggest, is less risky.

-David Lidrbauch

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CA%2BEzsx7jQaRXGg%2BVYkLyi4Z5YqeJ%2B6M39n5LEkLkitDgPit7rw%40mail.gmail.com.

[Jonathan Boright]

This comment/question is to your post George,

I also have the Wilcox-Crittenden bronze seacocks... and they are also stuck. Can you elaborate on how you "cut off the outside of the thruhull"? Also, is there a (detached?) handle that goes with them... or are they really supposed to turn so easily that you can turn the (squashed-donut-shaped) tab by hand? 

 

Cheers!

Jon

-------------------------------------------
Jonathan Boright

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/7f1d959f-ce79-3b7e-49dd-2b0fb3a61ea9%40george-dubose.com.

[Guy Johnson]

https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

Servicing Tapered Cone Seacocks - Marine How To The Tapered Cone Seacock. In this photo we can see the cone or plug and the taper is evident. The valve body has a corresponding taper in it and the two are lap fit or ground to fit and mate nearly perfectly.. The beautiful thing about these robust bronze seacocks is they are made from the same material, all 85-5-5-5 bronze. marinehowto.com

Has some good info and a picture of the handle. 

Guy

---

From: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Jonathan Boright <jbor...@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2025 11:52 AM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [pearson ] Stuck seacock

 

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAFEwxX%2BRbu2kc0OSh6_cRPriaAYiLk%3DbdiEq7bLrY4NMb2YMDw%40mail.gmail.com.

[Jonathan Boright]

Thanks Guy. 

All sorts of good info there! So, at some point, there was probably a handle that went with the seacock (assuming that the Wilcox-Crittenden seacocks are similarly equipped as the example Spartan brand). What seems even more useful is the trick of using an Allen wrench if/when you don't have an official handle to hand. 

Thanks again! 

-------------------------------------------
Jonathan Boright

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/LV3P220MB1540B1B14BDFA6C9F88ECF54BC862%40LV3P220MB1540.NAMP220.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM.

[Jonathan Boright]

A quick follow-up; 

Googling "Wilcox-Crittenden bronze seacock handle" brings up a slew of these handles for square fittings.

 I don't think that this would work on the seackocks that I have. I'm pretty sure that the (eternal) nut is a hex, but I'm not at the boat so, I can't say for sure. Will verify

J

-------------------------------------------
Jonathan Boright

[Jeff Griglack]

When I had WC seacocks on my old P30, I had to use a hammer to get one free.  I got a piece of pipe that was the proper diameter to just fit over the threaded rod.  This protected the threaded rod from damage.

Later, I had to go through it again (because it was the seacock for the holding tank flush that I never used).  I couldn't get the tapered plug free, so I ended up removing the seacock and thru hull and replacing both with Marelon.  Even out of the boat, I was never able to get the seacock free again.  Another reason why I replaced them was that the old, bronze ones were turning pink, which indicates that zinc was leaching out.

All the seacocks on my P365 are ball-type and not the tapered plug WC ones.

Good luck

------------------------------------------------------------------
| Jeff Griglack             "Jabberwocky" P-365 #269

------------------------------------------------------------------
| "Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent"
|                   - Walt Kelly
| 'Years ago my mother used to say to me, she'd say, "In this
| world, Elwood, you must be" – she always called me Elwood –
| "In this world, Elwood, you must be oh so smart or oh so pleasant."
| Well, for years I was smart. I recommend pleasant. You may quote me.'
|               —James Stewart as Elwood P. Dowd
------------------------------------------------------------------

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAFEwxXJJWLS2XJzUPUJ1_%3DkOAFTpOZZ8MHX2FgZt6vMosQDx_A%40mail.gmail.com.

[George Dubose]

When I couldn't turn the W-C seacock off of its thruhull, the engineer/owner of the boatyard told me to put a cobalt "burr" or rasp into a drill, go under the boat (on land) and grind away the outside flange where it meets the threaded tube of the thruhull. The wider flange of the thruhull will eventually fall free from the threaded tube. I did this to all six thruhulls.

Skylark was 34 years old and probably never had her seacocks service, the rudder post stuffing box had never had the packing replaced and the Edson steering serviced or even greased.

When I had all the seacocks out of the boat, I took the seacocks to an auto garage and left all the seacocks in a parts washer over night. Cleaned them up with a wire brush on a bench grinder and the Wilcox-Crittenden seacocks were/are as good as new.

Of course, I had to buy new bronze thruhulls, but they were a lot cheaper than buying equal quality seacocks from Blake or Spartan.

That Pearson used so many bronze parts or fittings is one thing that they got right.

George

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAFEwxX%2BRbu2kc0OSh6_cRPriaAYiLk%3DbdiEq7bLrY4NMb2YMDw%40mail.gmail.com.

[Jonathan Boright]

Thanks Jeff and George, 

Fortunately, I only have two seacocks;  the freshwater intake for the head (currently open), and the head flush-out (currently shut). Removing both seacocks and thruhulls isn't likely to make the must-do list this spring, unless it becomes neccessary (I also need to re-core the cockpit and transom 😳)... so the question now is if I should even attempt to unfreeze the seacocks or just leave well enough alone until I have time to address them properly (probably in the Fall). My thought is that I'll try to service the freshwater intake seacock valve (making sure that I can close it), and leaving the head flush-out alone (I'm in Lake Champlain, so I don't think opening it is even legal). What are the chances of a stuck-closed seacock becoming an urgent repair necessity? I'm betting on 'low'... but feel free to educate me if I'm wrong! 

J 

-------------------------------------------
Jonathan Boright

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/96f2944c-9456-55dd-2775-4945635fc6fa%40george-dubose.com.

[George Dubose]

Sometimes, I just take a hammer to the handle...gently...LOL.

Lucky for you the seacocks are frozen closed.

George/Skylark

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAFEwxXK4aJicjMiRg_21LTatSP7FSV7tBdS%3DaeAwsKaaf55LPA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Guy Johnson]

Spartan marine sells a bronze seacock handle

https://www.spartanmarine.com/all-products/seacock-adapters-parts

Sent from Outlook

---

From: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Jonathan Boright <jbor...@gmail.com>

Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2025 12:31 PM

To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAFEwxXLDVh-e0CJeoDsTH2nE19MezWjPgcNiqnfCzmKwQMQVsg%40mail.gmail.com.