P26 OD Shroud Tension--How Tight?

[Chris Denny]

Hey everyone,

I have a Pearson 26 OD. My shrouds aren't very tight, not loose, but not really taunt. Any suggestions about how tight to make them and how to know when they're good to go? (without hiring a rigger or using a gauge)

Thanks for the input.

Best,

Chris

[Bob Maxwell]

Here are a couple guides

Bob

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[David Walker]

My philosophy on rigging tension on a boat with a deck stepped mast is to use the least tension that: 1) keeps the mast up, 2) keeps the mast in column (straight) side to side, and 3) keeps the forestay or furler from sagging.  It's very easy to distort the deck with excessive tension unless there is a compression post directly under the mast step, which there is not in a P26, not sure about the P26 OD.  But then again I cruise not race, unless there is another P26 in sight.

Dave W

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[George DuBose]

I have read that after the stays are hand tight, one should go out on a
15-20 kt day. Sail on a broad reach and if you see that the leeward
shroud is loose, hand tighten it. Then tack the boat to a broad reach
on the opposite tack and tighten the new leeward shroud hand tight. The
leeward cap shrouds should not be moving.

My P26 had a massive laminated support on the overhead under the mast,
I never worried about the deck distorting.

The forestay and backstay should be tight enough so that there is not
excessive sag to leeward with the jib pulling.

The Hall guide is good, Bill Shaw also wrote a piece about rig
tensioning. I have it somewhere on my hard drives and will post it.

Personally, I use a Loos gauge and tighten the stays to last year's
settings.

I also use Velcro bands with stainless steel pins to lock the
turnbuckles.
https://www.amazon.com/C-SHERMAN-JOHNSON-Wrap-Pins-Turnbuckles-WRAPC3-P/dp/B00BLOF3F6

They make it quick and easy to unlock the turnbuckle and adjust it.

George/Skylark

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Video interview on YouTube:
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Password: SkylarkNY

S/V Skylark
Compagnieshaven
Enkhuizen, NL

[Dan Pfeiffer]

The P26 mast is supported by a plywood beam that's about 2-1/2 to 3" thick and sits in a socket in the headliner.   The deck in this area is cored with plywood and is about 1-1/4" thick overall.  The beam itself supported by two oak compression posts that make up either side of the doorway from the main cabin to the head.  At the bottom these two compression posts sit on blocking and are thru-bolted to the fiberglass liner.   The compression posts are also fastened to the main bulkheads for further stiffness.   It is all pretty robust and the mast is well supported (provided all these components are intact).   The structure is the same on the OD and weekender versions though the fiberglass pan is a little different.  The bulkhead is also different on the OD.   I was never worried about distorting the deck from rig tension on my P26.

What you do not have is forward or aft shrouds.  The upper and lower shrouds are in-line.  In the OD these are about 6" further inboard (hence the different bulkheads).   So the rig is simpler to tune but can seem a bit loose fore/aft if you grab the mast and shake it in that direction.  But I never felt like this was an issue while sailing.  But I was wary of flying just a genoa (without the main up) but that may have been unfounded. 

Look at the Bill Shaw guide that was posted in another reply by Bob Maxwell.  Tune the rig to be reasonably tight and  to get the mast centered and straight.  Go sailing in 10-12 kts.  Close hauled it should stay centered and straight.   If it doesn't it's not quite tight enough.  The headstay/backstay are less critical for tuning and if you don't have one a backstay adjuster is a great addition to a P26 and gives you very useful control over headsail shape.  Snugging it up as the wind speed increases can let you get to a few more kts of wind before needing to change sails or reef. 

Problems with the structure supporting the mast can occur from water getting in under the mast step and delaminating the deck or the plywood beam.  I recall repairing some minor delamination in mine back towards the end of the last century.  The bottom of the compression post can also suffer from water damage (mine did not).  I think early boats (before '74?) were more of a problem and the design was revised to get the bottom of the posts up out of the bilge.    On the P26 and the P26 Weekender the chainplates fasten to sturdy knees that are integrated into the fiberglass pan and tabbed to the hull.  On the OD the chain plates are bolted directly to the bulkheads and are consequently more vulnerable to water damage from leaks. 



Dan Pfeiffer