REPLACING SALON WINDOW IN 31-2

[pau...@perhapscoaching.com]

Coming to the font of knowledge!!!

 

I know I have seen discussions about replacing windows in Pearson 31-2, however I would be exceedingly grateful for help replacing our longer crazed and leaking window/port in our salon.

 

Any info will be greatly appreciated!

 

Thank you

 

Pauleen Ward Brown

31.2 P hull #20

Sailing out of Breezy Point NY

 

[Alptraveler]

Hi Pauleen, I am sure you are gonna get a lot of variations to your question but here is what I did last pre-season......
1. Removed the old windows(yes,they were slightly crazed but we didn't really care as they were not that bad)
2. Cleaned the windows and mounting area up from any past caulk and....the Butyl I had stuffed in there to stop the leaking til I could do a.proper repair
3. Temp put the windows in with tape so I could tape the area around the windows,inside and out
4. Removed the windows and applied Sikaflex 291 liberally
5. Put the windows in place, put a few pieces of tape or some form of pressure and just left them to cure.
We had zero leaking this summer. Sikaflex 291 seems to be the product of choice after all of my readings. I think I even called Down Corning or whomever makes it to ask "why" this product and not the other product.
As far as replacing the actual window, I have seen many posting/reading on this either in Practical Sailor,forums or Good Ole Boat. If you have the rt tools I remember some making their own. For me, once I decide on a product of choice, I would simplify my life and have it made. I would've save $ by doing my own install just as I did.
Good luck, the only grueling part was cleaning the remain product off and prepping the surface for the new product.

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[pau...@perhapscoaching.com]

thank you – we were going to use butyl tape but will def check out the Sikaflex!!!

 

My best to you

 

Pauleen

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[Alptraveler]

If we r talking about the same windows.....the long, non opening window in the salon.....if u use Butyl, how will you secure them? They basically sit flesh into a sill, no screws or frame to hold them in place. I suppose u could use Butyl against the framing and follow-up with a sealant?  Maybe we r not talking the same windows???

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[Alptraveler]

If these r the windows u speak of, they r removed from the outside by removing the previous sealant. If your actual frame gasket is leaking, yes, a complete removal will b needed. Mine was seepage via the actual window, not the frame. How do I know that?? I temp put a bead of Butyl where the water seeped in. Once I did that, it was dry, even in rain storms. It was a quick bandaid til I could do it rt.

[Peter McGowan]

W/R/T glass I took the original fogged glass (it was actual glass) to a local glass store and they used as templates to cut new pieces out of plastic (the original safety glass was a thickness that’s not available anymore).  I held onto the originals in case I need them again (the new ones were a close match, they fit well, but were not exactly the same, and I’d prefer the next set go off the originals).  

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[pau...@perhapscoaching.com]

Thank you – will check again with the plastic we have that they are the correct size! 

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[pau...@perhapscoaching.com]

Yes, the same window.  I thought the bolts on the inside held them in place!  Thank you for that important bit of information!!!

 

We saw drips coming from the crazing and it does look ugly so we will change it out.  Checking the new plastic the PO gave us is the correct size and will def check out the Sikaflex

 

Thank you again for your help!!!

 

Love this group!!!!

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[Alptraveler]

Many articles, this is one I used as resourcing info. Since we didn't replace with new kinda a mute point but I was saving it for future reference. If u can't find more I will look in the basement in my yanked hard copy articles.

Sailmagazine.com/diy/replacing-fixed-portlights

Aug 2,2017

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[George Dubose]

For what it's worth, I gave up using the seals from Catalina and
tempered glass that was too thick. 3/16" safety or tempered glass is not
available anymore.

I finally removed the glass from the frames, put the empty frames back
in and then used 3M VHB tape to stick 1/2" Lexan to the frame on the
outside of the cabin. I ran a bead of Sika around the edge of the Lexan
to enhance the waterproofing. 1/2" Lexan also makes a pretty good storm
shutter.

I learned after the fact that VHB tape can be bought in 12" wide sheets
or rolls and that would have saved me from trying to "bend" the 1" wide
tape around the corners of the portlights.

Finally, to fix the inner frame to the outer frame, i found small Torx
screws in aluminum to prevent the galvanic corrosion from the original
stainless steel screws in the aluminum frame.

Now none of my portlights leak.

George/Skylark 1973 P-36-1

[Jeff Griglack]

If there is one thing I have learned about these ports over the years is that for everybody who repairs them, there are at least two solutions.

If there is a frame, the frame was designed to hold the windows in mechanically. If there is a frame that is simply glued in place, chances are they had been repaired in the past.  If you look through the archives for this group, you should be able to find instructions on repair. 

Disclaimer: I can only speak directly about the ports on the P30 and the P365.

Jeff

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