ventilation slots in V-Berth

[Last Resort]

A somewhat trivial issue, and not sure about other Pearson models, but the 31-2 have large slots in the wooden cover to the bow which I've always wondered about. Why are they there  and would there be any issue closing them and the area off is my question?   There's never been an issue till now, but I'm installing a windlass this week and will be putting the chaing and rope bucket in the bow right there in front of the V-Berth, so now I'm worried that the slats may allow wet smells, etc. from the rode.   Thanks for any insight into this!

[Alptraveler]

I am very interested in your step by step process of installing a windlass,  along with photos. My yard told me it can't be done. Some have suggested so modifications but those would out cost the value that I would never recoup. Right now we are using a handheld electric winch and bringing the rode back to the cockpit once the chain reaches vertical.

BTW....my 31-2 does not have the slats at the front of the vberth,just a solid board. Behind that board that I thought was just a pretty finishing access board is the anchor locker drain hose and access to backing plates for pulpit, cleats and anchor roller. Honestly, I am not even sure it is big enough for a bucket unless you are talking about a household pail??? No previous modifications from original. I am a visual learner, pics would be great. I covet a windlass very much.

On Tue, Jun 14, 2022, 8:17 AM Last Resort <lastre...@gmail.com> wrote:

A somewhat trivial issue, and not sure about other Pearson models, but the 31-2 have large slots in the wooden cover to the bow which I've always wondered about. Why are they there  and would there be any issue closing them and the area off is my question?   There's never been an issue till now, but I'm installing a windlass this week and will be putting the chaing and rope bucket in the bow right there in front of the V-Berth, so now I'm worried that the slats may allow wet smells, etc. from the rode.   Thanks for any insight into this!

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[Nathan Harper]

There is most likely a scoop on the deck of your bow, for letting air into the cabin. The teak panel with thr slots is to let that air travel inside the vbirth.  The panel should have a thumb hole with a latch on the other side to remove it for access.  There are lights in your bow behind the panel, and the drain for your anchor locker if you have one. I also have a water fill hose for a tank in my vbirth.

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From: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Alptraveler <alptr...@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2022 2:38:38 PM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [pearson ] ventilation slots in V-Berth

 

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[Alptraveler]

Ok,yep, just looked at misc photos in my Google drive files(boat is 4 hrs from me.rt now)...I do have the very same hatch cover, tho mine is held in place by screws. My pump out hose is behind it( Iight say, a REALLY STUPID location for a pumpout...in the anchor locker), anchor locker water drain hose and access to backing plates. My bow lights are on  the pulpit, I access their electrical from inside the anchor locker. Either way, I would be interested in your windlass project if you are willing to share.

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[Last Resort]

Very interesting that you don't have slots in your 31-2, so I guess I can cover them up as there is no such air scoop as suggested.  As for the Windlass, I was told the same thing for years, but the real planning all started last fall and progressed through the winter making all the deck parts necessary as seen in the picture ($500cdn and I cut the hatch). I'm going with the Lewmar V700 for the windlass. The plan is to drop beyond the present anchor locker to the forementioed bucket to give the rode enough drop to be effective. They say a miniumum of 12", and theres 10" right now as is. I'll do my best to supply more pictures once I get started tomorrow....took me 2 days to convert my battery system to Lithiium, but seems well worth it. The've been running the fridge, radios, etc all day and still holding at 13.2V :) 

[Last Resort]

well just into things and checking out the install, and as mentioned, NO ROOM for a bucket....amazing how big things are remembered during the winter months :(    So with my resources now, I'm installing the windlass as planned on the deck, but not sure right now about drilling into the bow bilge, meaning  I'll let the windlass now do the pulling work instead of me :), but I will have to milk the rode and lay it out in the present anchor locker just as I did when pulling it before.  Not ideal, but a lot less  physical stress on me!  I think there's still enough room for my rode in the bow bilge, I just have to make a model of what I'd need and take it home to have it made out of fiberglass or such, and bring it back up next summer.  And like most in my sailing area, I have 200' of rope and so far 50" of chain, but will only use the chain and about 20/30" of rope anchoring each time, so perhaps I'll cut through to the bow bilge and store the extra 120" down there and should I ever need it, it will be useable :)   BTW, my SS guy who made my deck plate could probably make more as he now has the template for the laser cutter to do the job. I'm in Southern Ontario.  If you have a SS guy who could do the job, I'm sure my SS guy would share the required files if needed. 

[Michael Cyr]

These might help.  I put a used Maxwell horizontal electric windlass on my P33 last spring.  The location of the windlass is towards the back of the chain locker ahead of the v-berth. The p33 doesn't have a fiberglass chain locker like yours.  It's just an open space.  But this will show you the geometry of the anchor on it's roller, the teak support under the roller, and the windlass.  I have since raised the windlass up on a 4" block of teak so the line has more contact with the gypsy.  The Maxwell HR-6 takes up almost no room under the deck because of it's horizontal design.  The only thing that sticks down is about 2" of the chain chute. (I took the opportunity to fix some wet/soft spots in the bow deck.  There just happened to be extra plywood support in the deck, where I wanted to put the windlass.). I also put a wireless controller on the windlass (it's basically a wireless DPDT relay) and I love it for when I'm up at the bow finishing the retrieval of the anchor.  One thing that I didn't know until I got one is that you don't use the windlass to drag the boat to the anchor. Or at least not this model. You drive up to the anchor and use the windlass to collect the slack line. You also don't use the windlass to break the anchor free.  I tie off the anchor line or chain on a cleat and let the motion of the boat break the anchor free.  Then lift with the windlass.

Mike in Maine

Brizo 1970 P33-1

[Alptraveler]

Where in s.ontario? I spent my summers in Goderich, my grandpa was the governor back then. Their place is now the town museum. We also spent many a day at Ipperwash and climbing at Mnt Nemo.

Thnx re the template. I.am gonna send you some pucs that someone on this site sent me re ideas. The most.cost effective i came up with was what you are planning....a low drop deck windlass which, as you said, would need milking into the locker. Something is better than nothing,hence us using an electric handheld windlass back to the cockpit once we get the rode vertical 

(175' rope + 30' chain).

Ok,let me.see.if I can.forward you ideas that I took from my marina as well as some who sent me some. The pics may help with you being creative.

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[Last Resort]

interesting to see all the different scenarios :)    I like the method in picture 4, definately a Pearson, but looks bigger than a 31-2 looking at the hatch size.  And hand milking will be required there as well.   I might have tried that instead if I'd seen it, although with my clumsy feet, I'd probably end up with some broken toes! My version will be much more out of the way.  I live in the NIagara Region, but sail in the North Channel around Manatoulin Island.  That's why this is so hard to do from templates and memory:(   Sized it up today, and my plate was perfect, but I need to shave a few cm's off the hatch for a perfect fit. Too bad too since I rexpoxied the cut end and did a great job....hopefully I can accomplish my goal with the hatch with some heavy sanding, which I'll also need to do to get the curve in the deck out.  Luckily it's very thick there, so should be no issues flattening it out so the plate can lie flatter.  Right now there's abut 1/4" gap on both sides, so it shouldn't take much to level it all out...I HOPE!!!!    

on a forum note, since we've seem to have taken this a completely different direction, I don't know if a moderator can accomplish it, but my title should now read:  ventilation slots in V-Berth for Windlass install  :)  

[Last Resort]

finally the finished project!  

so now I just need to finish the wiring tomorrow...tedius, but doable :)  

I've didn't drill a hole through yet to the bow bilge since I'll see how things go first this way.  If I do decide to use that 'small' space, I've been thinking it might be better to reverse my idea of having 150' of rode stowed for emerency use below, and keep it up top and let the working rode and chaing use the bow bilge, then there'd be no milking necessary for the 1st 80' or so :)  

[Alptraveler]

Looks great! I can't wait to hear how it actually works for you after me being told it can't happen. If it works I may hit you up for more info. You said you can get the template from your stainless guy, correct? I really like the cleanliness of the fabrication/install. I'd love to take the template, get it made, take it to the shop to have them install it over the winter(if your reports back are positive).

I will be looking forward to your wiring pics too. I think you said you got new lithium batteries? Will the unit have a dedicated battery in the vberth or are you tagging onto your house? Where are you running the wiring? I installed a tank monitor for the holding tank last yr and the spaces are tight. I installed solar also last yr(which would top off any use from the windlass but my house bank is x2 agm in parallel anyway,size 31) and had to remove panels to thread the wire to get to the battery bank.

Ooooo, I look forward to the wiring process now. Thanks 

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[Last Resort]

OK, so anymore windlass discussion will be discussed here:   P 31-2 Windlass installation (my version) (google.com)