ISO - 41" TAPERED BATTEN AND SPINAKER SOCK

[pau...@perhapscoaching.com]

Hi all

 

One of our (41” tapered fiberglass) battens flipped out at the end of last season – missed catching it before it took a dive in the old briny.  Anyone have one? 

 

Also, a spinnaker sock – we never had one and the PO had no idea where it was

 

Gratefully

 

Pauleen

Coram Deo

Breezy Point

 

US cell: 347 453 5877

UK cell: 0758 115 2369

Skype name:  Pauleen.ward.brown

Make an appointment with me here: calendly.com/pauleen

www.perhapscoaching.com

 

 

[Stephen Craft]

I was able to get Doyles Sailmaker to reproduce one of my battens sacrificed to Neptune.

Stephen

Pearson 10M

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[Peter McGowan]

Hey all,

This year when I splashed I noted a significant increase in vibrations as I increased RPM on my motor.  I thought at first it was that my change in propeller pitch (it's a Max-Prop, so adjustable) might have done it, but the folks at PYI said that a one step adjustment would be unlikely to cause the whole boat to be shaking at higher RPMs.

Having coffee this morning I ended up chatting with another sailor who had just splashed but hadn't any plans until his engine got aligned.  I was surprised this wasn't done before he splashed and he noted that it's better to do it in the water because the keel pushes the hull up while on the hard, then pulls it down in the water.  It struck me  that I might have inadvertently mucked everything up while re-tabbing the bulkheads over the winter, it's entirely possible that the shape of the hull (and thus the location of the motor) is now solidly holding in place as it was on the hard thanks to significantly beefier tabbing, and that it's not the location the motor used to be while in the water. 

My thoughts on figuring out if this is actually what happened is to disconnect the shaft coupling and see if the two plates immediately jump out of alignment.  I may learn enough simply by trying to take the bolds out (if they're out of alignment I suspect they won't budge after I remove the nuts).  If it turns out that I have an alignment issue then I start playing with the motor feet to get things in a better place.  I'm ready for this to be a many hours affair.

My niggle is the shaft seal.  Thinking about it, the shaft seal should continue to do it's job as the two plates of the seal will continue to press against each other even with the coupling uncoupled.  But maybe I'm missing something?  If they'r'e going to want to seperate and let water into the boat then it might be an idea for me to somehow hold them together?

Any advice appreciated!

Peter

[Dave Cole]

Id look closely at the design of your shaft seal, but my guess is that you can disconnect the flange at the engine without any issues and push the propshaft out slightly.

I think on my boat the two flanges have an alignment interlock so they would have to be pushed apart to see a misalignment.

Im assuming you have a dripless unit?  

Do you also have a corrugated bellows coupling the shaft seal to the dripless seal?

What unit do you have?

I would suspect an alignment issue as well.

When is the vibration noticable?

Dave

10M #26

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[Peter McGowan]

Thanks Dave.  It’s a PSS they’re distributed by PYI.  It immediately sounds different from last year, I’d say it’s 40% power when things start shuddering 

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[George DuBose]

Hi Peter,

I think you are overthinking this. Engine/shaft alignment should always be done when the boat is in the water for a week or so and the rigging is tuned.

Disconnecting the flange on the prop shaft from the flange on the engine output shaft shouldn't cause the shaft seal to leak that much and once the flanges are separated, there should be no leaking from the seal unless it is already worn.

Bear in mind, that adjusting the engine mounts and measuring the gap in the two flanges is a TWO person job. One person has to measure with a feeler gauge the gap in the flanges and the other person will be adjusting the engine mounts.

I hope your engine mounts are in good condition.

George/Skylark

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S/V Skylark
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[Guy Johnson]

On the max prop classic I had it was possible to miss align the two blades that could be one cause

The cutless bearing could be another reason.

A friend’s boat had a suspected problem with the prop hub being forced into the strut when in forward. The solution was increasing clearance between the hub and strut. 

On Jun 30, 2024, at 11:54 AM, Peter McGowan <mcgowa...@gmail.com> wrote:



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[Guy Johnson]

I have seen tapered battens listed on the Sailrite website. 

Sent from Outlook

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From: pauleen via pearson-boats <pearso...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2024 3:23 PM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: [pearson ] ISO - 41" TAPERED BATTEN AND SPINAKER SOCK

 

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[Daniel Hoffman]

I'm still working on my alignment too, after replacing the shaft and cutlass bearing.

It turned out that my engine mounts were shot. I got a new set and installed them with little struggle, but have been having a hard time with the alignment.

The engine was running rough in idle and the new mounts fixed that. The old ones were nearly as stiff forward to aft, but had way more play side to side than the new ones. Yanmar says to replace them every 4 years and they looked old when I got the boat five years ago.

I removed the flexible coupling, or "donut", and pushed the shaft flange up to the transmission flange and couldn't get it aligned with feeler gauges. After a day of struggling with it, I had to give it up to spend time with the admiral.

I'm going to pay far better attention to my "rough" alignment. The shaft is fairly centered port to starboard and I plan to measure the middle of the vertical play from the packing and pre-align it as close as I can before going back to the gauges. I did buy a 15/16 stubby combination wrench and a crow's foot wrench and will bring my set of swivel sockets and a deep well 23mm socket down to the boat this time.

I want to take the weight off of the engine for the port-starboard adjustment because the mounts should not be fllexed to the sides and it's too hard to adjust them that way without doing so. I'm going to use calipers for the side to side measurement and will place a block and some shims under the flange to hold it to my  estimated vertical center.

Daniel Hoffman
Fourth and Goal

On Sun, Jun 30, 2024, 10:44 AM Peter McGowan <mcgowa...@gmail.com> wrote:

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[George DuBose]

I also installed a flexible coupling and my local mechanic said he couldn't align the engine/prop shaft with the flexible coupling ruand I can't pull the two flanges together due to the prop being so close to the P strut, so I had a duplicate of the plastic coupling machined out of aluminum that allowed me to finish the alignment.

George/Skylark

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[Peter McGowan]

Well this is all very interesting.  I didn’t know about donuts and flexible couplings, and admittedly didn’t know what a feeler guage was either.  Maybe I will order one of those before I start so I can install as part of the process.  My diver suggested a bit more than 1/8” of space between the line cutter and the cutlass bearing is advisable and it sounds like a flexible shaft coupling would move the prop / line cutter out a bit so it’s win-win.

Question - Looking at these feeler gauges online, they appear to measure very small gaps indeed.  I am wondering why an installation with a flexible coupling would be concerned about 0.01mm gaps?  Does the flexible coupling only flex a very small amount?

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/567a2ebd-e21f-17c8-ef25-afe67bec0151%40george-dubose.com.

[Robert Franklin]

George,

I'm sorry to tell you that I've dropped the price on my P36 to $20,000.  I don't think I've sent you my listing? 

Do you mind if I do.

What a deal for someone who understands this model Pearson.

Bob

On Mon, Jul 1, 2024 at 11:43 AM George DuBose <bo...@george-dubose.com> wrote:

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[Guy Johnson]

The recommended gap  I've heard  is 1/2". With only 1/8" and flexible engine mounts there is a real possibility that your line cutter is rubbing on your strut when you're in forward. That can cause all sorts of problems. 

Why measure to .001" when you're going to install a flexible coupling... Any miss alignment will cause in harmonics in the system, the flexible coupling will dampen but not totally eliminate those vibrations. Alignment will eliminate those vibrations caused by misalignment. 

Guy

Puffin 10M #6

Sent from Outlook

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From: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of Peter McGowan <mcgowa...@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2024 12:19 PM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [pearson ] Engine Alignment / PSS Shaft Seal

 

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