pearson 10 M interior teak laminate

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Charles Bachmann

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May 30, 2024, 10:26:30 AMMay 30
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I have a P10  vintage  1976  .... she has very little bright work   inside or out .

The teak she has below,  seems to be a sort of teak  laminate  ,  Has any one had any luck  bringing  the  teak  laminate back to  life .

Can teak oil , lemon oil  or Tung oil be used  to bring the laminate back  .

Thanks in advance  for any  input . 

George DuBose

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May 30, 2024, 10:44:23 AMMay 30
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I painted my fake teak laminate a light ivory color to match the gelcoat color of the overhead, cabin sole and other surfaces.

What is a bigger "problem" is that the tabbing is bonded to the laminate which is bonded to the plywood of the bulkheads with RUBBER CEMENT. How's that for a bond?

George/Skylark

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Dan Pfeiffer

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May 30, 2024, 11:05:14 AMMay 30
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You'll need some Formica oil on that stuff. 

Dan Pfeiffer

Peter McGowan

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May 30, 2024, 11:21:33 AMMay 30
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I removed the formica with a heat gun and some metal scrapers, it fought me aggressively every step of the way.  I then relaminated with a brighter color formica.  I didn’t find anywhere that the tabbing overlapped the laminate, so thankfully whoever laminated mine was diligent enough to trim it back from the hull so that the tabs are all directly attached to the plywood.  For sure I would have rethought the project if the tabbing had overlapped the formica.

From a tabbing strength perspective, thinking about it, even if the laminate had not been trimmed back so far from the hull, such that some of the tabbing crossed from bare plywood onto the laminate, the forces on the formica would be sheer forces no?  I can attest that after my project removing that laminate, the rubber cement is pretty darned tenacious.  There were places where I didn’t get the glue hot enough and the glue was happy enough to tear off the top layer of the plywood with the formica, so it’s at least as strong as the glue used to laminate the plywood.  Having visited every square inch of tabbing on the boat at this point, the majority of failures on my hull were sheer force, where the tabbing was cracked along the hull, it didn’t peel off the hull, or the bulkhead, it simply split.  There was one spot (where the bulkhead for the head is attached, where it peeled.  I’m willing to bet, if I ever took out the shower pan on the other side of that bulkhead, there will be no tabbing, so that bulkhead is actually moving fore/aft. 
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Dave Cole

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May 30, 2024, 3:00:25 PMMay 30
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Formica oil... In other words, paint! Ha ha

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Al Taylor

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May 30, 2024, 3:49:36 PMMay 30
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Armor All?

On May 30, 2024, at 3:00 PM, Dave Cole <dave...@gmail.com> wrote:



Charles Bachmann

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May 31, 2024, 4:35:02 PMMay 31
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The painted  faux   teak must look  very   nice and brighten the entire  inside of the boat ... 

I am just looking for a short cut to give the Faux  finsih  some  luster  .. 

Jeff Griglack

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May 31, 2024, 4:40:03 PMMay 31
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I painted the fake teak/contact paper that covered the bulkhead in the main cabin of my (previous) P30, and I think it looked good.  It brightened things up down below.  I masked off the teak surround door frame into the head and left that as varnished wood.
------------------------------------------------------------------
| Jeff Griglack             "Jabberwocky" P-365 #269
------------------------------------------------------------------
| "Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent"
|                   - Walt Kelly
| 'Years ago my mother used to say to me, she'd say, "In this
| world, Elwood, you must be" – she always called me Elwood –
| "In this world, Elwood, you must be oh so smart or oh so pleasant."
| Well, for years I was smart. I recommend pleasant. You may quote me.'
|               —James Stewart as Elwood P. Dowd
------------------------------------------------------------------


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Peter McGowan

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May 31, 2024, 5:03:40 PMMay 31
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Crazy thought - could you PPF it?

On Fri, May 31, 2024 at 4:35 PM Charles Bachmann <mmyctr...@gmail.com> wrote:

George DuBose

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Jun 1, 2024, 6:16:21 AMJun 1
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I found that an RAL color 1015 light ivory is a perfect color match for the gelcoat color that Pearson used in the cabin and overhead. The faux teak just looked "faux" and the Admiral wanted the cabin brighter. I also removed all the vinyl hull liner and installed 2.5" strips of miranti wood that I also painted RAL 1015 which is a bit lighter than it appears on this color chart.

https://www.ralcolor.com/

George/Skylark

Guy Johnson

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Jun 4, 2024, 11:15:09 AMJun 4
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I like the PPF idea. The surface could also be "wrapped" like they do to apply graphics to cars, perhaps with a nautical chart of your favorite area?
Guy

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Sent: Friday, May 31, 2024 5:03 PM
To: pearso...@googlegroups.com <pearso...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: Re: [pearson ] pearson 10 M interior teak laminate
 

John Getz

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Jun 4, 2024, 1:44:26 PMJun 4
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The teak veneer will take any of those oils. Years ago when I was on the hook somewhere I even used a little olive oil. It worked. 
J Getz
ALICE P36
Sent from my iPhone

On May 30, 2024, at 10:26 AM, Charles Bachmann <mmyctr...@gmail.com> wrote:

I have a P10  vintage  1976  .... she has very little bright work   inside or out .

The teak she has below,  seems to be a sort of teak  laminate  ,  Has any one had any luck  bringing  the  teak  laminate back to  life .

Can teak oil , lemon oil  or Tung oil be used  to bring the laminate back  .

Thanks in advance  for any  input . 

--

Rich Glucksman

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Jun 4, 2024, 1:44:35 PMJun 4
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Any pictures of the finished interior?

Be well,
Rich



Dave Cole

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Jun 4, 2024, 2:06:12 PMJun 4
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Fwiw, the Rustoleum topside marine paint in Oyster White is a close match for the interior of my '74. 10M.  I cant tell where I have painted.
Its available in quarts on Amazon 

Its very durable paint.  I painted the transom about 10 years ago with semi gloss white and it hasn't chipped or dulled.

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Guy Johnson

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Jun 4, 2024, 2:45:51 PMJun 4
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Maybe clearcoat paint or a clear water based varnish?
Guy

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Sent: Tuesday, June 4, 2024 2:05 PM

Stephen Craft

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Jun 4, 2024, 5:53:17 PMJun 4
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Has anyone tried the epoxy paint that is supposed to look like marble?



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Dave Cole

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Jun 4, 2024, 7:01:24 PMJun 4
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If you want a marble look, you can put Formica over Formica.  Just a light sanding and contact cement will do it.  A 30" x 96" sheet of Formica premium is $50-100 depending on the pattern.  The marble patterns are pretty cheap.
I just got a sheet from Menards.  It was on sale and was about $30 for 30x96.  

Dave

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Jeff Griglack

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Jun 5, 2024, 9:43:43 AMJun 5
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The PO of my P30 did a light sanding and (I assume) contact cement to re-formica the counters.  The new formica peeled up. I have also seen it peel up in kitchen applications using contact cement.  I did it over using new formica and 5200 applied with a notched trowel.  It takes longer to dry, but I doubt it will be going anywhere.

I think, though, there may be different interiors.  Do people have faux teak, essentially contact paper, in their boats and others have real teak veneer?  I doubt the faux teak will look any better with teak oil because the plastic can't absorb the oil.  However, actual teak veneer is a thin layer of wood, and that will absorb the oil.
------------------------------------------------------------------
| Jeff Griglack             "Jabberwocky" P-365 #269
------------------------------------------------------------------
| "Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent"
|                   - Walt Kelly
| 'Years ago my mother used to say to me, she'd say, "In this
| world, Elwood, you must be" – she always called me Elwood –
| "In this world, Elwood, you must be oh so smart or oh so pleasant."
| Well, for years I was smart. I recommend pleasant. You may quote me.'
|               —James Stewart as Elwood P. Dowd
------------------------------------------------------------------

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAD5jJo3qbii2egj7s-ZM1-BCY3FRc8daNKf%3DQ1Mnr7f1dNTd8A%40mail.gmail.com.

Peter McGowan

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Jun 5, 2024, 11:17:01 AMJun 5
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The P36 is true Formica (1mm mix of resin and paper pulp).  In a few spots I removed the Formica with a heat gun because I had cut huge maintenance holes (restoring the joint between the settee fronts and the sole) but for the most part I left it in place.  I used 3M 90 spray contact adhesive which won’t release once more than maybe 2” square area of bonding has occurred, so you have to make sure things are aligned correctly or you’re in a lot of trouble as the Formica will break before the adhesive will let go.  It always amazes me how even a fraction of a degree off at the start can mean a 6’ panel is off by 1/4” at the start ther end.   I light sanded and wiped with a surface prep cleaner/degreaser (my preferred is by TotalBoat).  There is a spot where the Formica managed to make contact “ahead” of where I was working and I ended up with a bubble.  It goes away in the cooler parts of the day.  It wasn’t a big enough deal to tear off the Formica and start again, but next time I would have a helper for the big stuff to hold back the sheet from doing that again.

Dave Cole

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Jun 5, 2024, 11:40:00 AMJun 5
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Ive done enough Formica to know how to mess up an installation.  The contact cement (Ive only used solvent based cement) has to be applied in sufficient thickness, via multiple coats, so that it "dries" glossy to both the laminate and the substrate,  before the pieces are joined.  If the glue dries "flat" it will be a bad bond.  If done correctly, it cant be removed.
In order to get the gloss, or sheen, multiple coats have to be applied.  Even on non porous laminate.
The pieces also have to be joined during a window of time.  To early, when the glue is "wet" results in a mess.  Too late and it wont bond properly.  What I do is put down at least two coats of glue, each coat has to "dry" then wait...when I can touch it and no glue comes off, wait another 10 minutes and stick it together. Use spacer sticks to position the Formica then pull them out to evenly make contact.  The sticks wont stick to the glue.  The glue only sticks to the same glue.  That why spacers can be used.

Dave
10M#26

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