Adler Barbour ColD Machine

[robertm...@gmail.com]

Mine stopped working recently. I seem unale to contact Richard Kollmann or his website, or find his book anywhere.

I have a little experience but not enough.

For example I realize it is probably an electrical problem, rather than a refrigerant loss. 

I have 12 volts at the control panel and all wires are tight.  The led diagnostic light does not lite. I've tried tocheck the tstat by shorting the connections within the control - somewhat amateurishly - and thus unreliably.

I don't know where to turn next.

Any suggestions?  

Is there anything to the notion that I might be reading 12V at the control (heavy red and black wires coming from the panel), without sufficient amperage?

The unit worked and then it stopped working without any cause or trauma that could be associated with the sudden non function.

Bob Franklin

[Dan Pfeiffer]

First thing I would check is integrity of all connections.   take them apart, clean them (even if they look ok), coat with electric contact grease, reconnect.   you may be on to something with regard to reading voltage but not having current.  worth a check as a start.

Dan Pfeiffer

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[Peter McGowan]

Inline fuse?  

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[Robert Franklin]

Thanks Dan.

Peter, are you suggesting there may be a fuse somewhere I haven't considered. I check the 5 amp and 15 amp fuses at the control and they show continuity. The fuse at the main panel must be OK because I get 12V at the control panel

The odd thing is despite 12V at the control the LED diagnostic light does not function. Postings on Cruiser's Forum suggest in the direction of a bad control, but I'm not at that point as yet.

Most of the postings go back a decade, but Richard Kollmann has posted in 2022. Just can't locate him or anything from a website.

Thanks

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Robert M. Franklin, Esq.
145 Lagrange Street
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617 277 5900 Cell
email:  robertm...@gmail.com

[George DuBose]

This is why I like my Dometic 110 liter top opening fridge. Any problems, I just take it to a local repair shot. The unit is 15 years old and really hasn't made but a couple of problems.

Bob could put one in the port pilot berth. They are easy to "lock down".

George/Skylark.

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-- 
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Germany
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Personal website:
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S/V Skylark
Compagnieshaven
Enkhuizen, NL

[Peter McGowan]

I wasn't sure whether it was you or a PO who installed your cooling system, or whether it was installed before your fused control panel (in which case there would be a good chance of an inline fuse).  My P36 had an unfused control panel from Bass which I replaced last season, I snipped off half a dozen inline fuses for various devices in the process. I didn't want to deal with getting to those fuses if they blew ahead of the trip switches on the panel.  With my panel (a Blue Seas one) I learned inadvertantly that those LEDs indicate power being drawn by the device as opposed to being supplied (if there's power getting to a the device from another source then that LED will light up irrespective of the state of the switch).  This may also be the case with yours, except the opposite, where no power is getting to the device irrespective of the state of the switch.

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[Robert Franklin]

George, I agree the pilot berth (Might you be referring to the Quarter Berth?) on our P36 model is generally wasted space, although in 36 feet there is never enough space.  However, my cruising plan is very different from yours. At most I am aboard 2 weeks during the limited summer months in southern New England.  All I am seeking is to keep some food chilled for that time period.  In fact the standard P36 ice box, now converted to refrigeration is a bit large to be cooled efficiently.  Add to that it being right next to the poorly ventilated engine compartment, makes for a lot of heat right on the other side of the ice chest wall.  

I assume this is a similar problem to all Pearson models over 28 feet with no real good solution.

After all, running the Yanmar 30F we both have, creates 5 gallons of scalding hot water in a fairly short motor run.  Maybe 15 minutes, although I haven't timed it.  With hot water nearing 180 degrees mixed with cold for showering and/or dishwashing that's a lot of water.

After I motor a while then shut down, I open the door to the engine compartment and tie the lazarett cover to the back stay in an effort to cool the engine compartment. This has some effect, but not a lot. That cast iron engine block is a great radiator an retains heat a long time.

A great advantage of your refrigeration approach is "access".  Digging through the accumulation of food containers in an open box style ice chest is a challenge. And while searching, the cold is being lost to 80+ degree weather.

Bob Franklin

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[Jeff Griglack]

Is there some way you can bypass the control panel to see if the compressor runs?  I would think that, if you power the compressor directly, that would help you narrow down where the problem lies.  Then, you could try powering the control panel with a separate wire run directly from the battery.  That would tell you if the problem lies in the wire wiring from the fuse panel.  This is just for debug purposes, not as a permanent solution.

Refrigeration is one of those issues I have been (mentally) wrestling with.  The P365 has a u-shaped galley setup with the icebox/fridge toward the middle of the cabin, away from the engine.  Still, I suspect it is not as well insulated as it could be.  I have an old refrigeration unit in it, but I am looking for 2 things:

1.  Minimize the power usage.  I suspect I can add insulation inside the box, making it smaller.

2.  Provide more than the dorm fridge sized freezer.  Currently, I could probably freeze a bag of peas and not much more.  I was thinking of getting a small, separate unit (like George's Dometic unit) as a dedicated freezer.

So, how well would the Dometic unit work as a freezer?  It would not be opened often.  Is there some unit that is more fitted to being used as a DC powered freezer?

I supposed I should talk with some dealers.  I am planning to head to the Newport boat show in 2 weeks, and I could check some RV dealers.

------------------------------------------------------------------
| Jeff Griglack             "Jabberwocky" P-365 #269

------------------------------------------------------------------
| "Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent"
|                   - Walt Kelly
| 'Years ago my mother used to say to me, she'd say, "In this
| world, Elwood, you must be" – she always called me Elwood –
| "In this world, Elwood, you must be oh so smart or oh so pleasant."
| Well, for years I was smart. I recommend pleasant. You may quote me.'
|               —James Stewart as Elwood P. Dowd
------------------------------------------------------------------

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[George DuBose]

As Uma and I found out, the old P36 ice box is great for storing cans and dry foods. I was forced to go with electric refrigeration as block ice doesn't exist in northern Europe.

The PO had a student size ice box that couldn't even be opened when on starboard tack, plus all the cold air poured out when the door was opened.

Dometic now makes a unit that can freeze and chill at the same time. My older model can chill or freeze, but not at the same time.

Don't need frozen beer anyway.

George/Skylark

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[Dan Pfeiffer]

I agree with Bob.  Figure out whats wrong with what you have before looking for an alternative.   Hopefully it's something simple and there is more life left in the system. 

Dan Pfeiffer

[Robert Franklin]

Peter, Thank you. an in line fuse is not something I considered, mainly because I assumed there would not be any power to the electronic module from the supply lines if an inline fuse was blown.

My supply lines read 12v, but as Dan and other sources say, that doesn't necessarily mean the current is strong enough to power the module.  

I also  read a suggestion to remove the black wire from its position in the module (I am assuming this suggestion means the thin black wire not the thicker power supply cable.) That suggestion came with no further explanation why the system might run without that wire, but it i simple enough and I'll give it a try this weekend when I am at the boat.

Bob

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[Jeff Griglack]

Bob,

As I suggested in a different thread (how do these threads get split like that), I would use a new set of wires to bypass the existing wiring (and any fuses that might be there), just for testing purposes.  If things power up, the problem lies in the wiring.  If not, the problem lies elsewhere.  You can do this with the control panel, and with the compressor directly.  All the controller really does is turn the compressor on and off to maintain a temperature within a range.

------------------------------------------------------------------
| Jeff Griglack             "Jabberwocky" P-365 #269

------------------------------------------------------------------
| "Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent"
|                   - Walt Kelly
| 'Years ago my mother used to say to me, she'd say, "In this
| world, Elwood, you must be" – she always called me Elwood –
| "In this world, Elwood, you must be oh so smart or oh so pleasant."
| Well, for years I was smart. I recommend pleasant. You may quote me.'
|               —James Stewart as Elwood P. Dowd
------------------------------------------------------------------

To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/pearson-boats/CAODnOUbaYJ0Y8uOvV9pmAkM83Xvv3vWNsjh5KQFMOkgrbfrUGA%40mail.gmail.com.