Rough-In Height
Blackbeard
for different fixtures. If you numbers are different, I'd be curious
to know what you guys use in other areas of the country.
Kitchen Sink:
Drainage - 20" off subfloor (measure 8" right or left from center)
Water - 18: off subfloor (measure from center with 8" spread)
Lavatory:
Drainage - 18" off subfloor (measure to center of basin)
Water - 22" off subfloor (measure from center with 8" spread)
Water Closet:
Drainage - 12-3/4" off frame wall for flange (cut 4-1/2" hole)
Water - 5" over/8" up (measure 5" to the left of flange center, stub
water pipe out 8" off subfloor)
Fiberglass Shower (Carolina Classic/Midway Series)
Drainage - 14-1/2" off back frame wall (Cut 4" x 12" hole for tub
waste)
Water - Drill holes with 10" spread centered with tub waste
Valve - Shower Head (51-1/2" with drop ear ell for shower head
Hot/Cold - (I use stub-outs; copper bends designed for either
pex or copper)
Tub Spout (I use stub-out (copper)
Washer Box
Drainage - Trapped inside wall
Water - (measure from center with 8" spread)
Location - bottom lip of box measured to 35"
Icemaker
Water - approx. centered with refrigerator (mount 12" off subfloor to
bottom of box)
This is a brief version of what I have so far. If you guys have other
measurements in mind or other fixtures in mind, I would appreciate
some input. These are all residential fixtures. If you guys need
commercial measurements, we can address those rough measurements in
another post. thanks.
Dale Wilcox
Reply in line,
"Blackbeard" <Blackbeard...@Lycos.com> wrote in message
news:k4so40l24nij0pjq9...@4ax.com...
> I've been working on a sheet for my class regarding rough-in height
> for different fixtures. If you numbers are different, I'd be curious
> to know what you guys use in other areas of the country.
>
> Kitchen Sink:
> Drainage - 20" off subfloor (measure 8" right or left from center)
> Water - 18: off subfloor (measure from center with 8" spread)
be very dificult to trap it out.
Waters good.
>
> Lavatory:
> Drainage - 18" off subfloor (measure to center of basin)
> Water - 22" off subfloor (measure from center with 8" spread)
from traping without a slip extention.
>
> Water Closet:
> Drainage - 12-3/4" off frame wall for flange (cut 4-1/2" hole)
> Water - 5" over/8" up (measure 5" to the left of flange center, stub
> water pipe out 8" off subfloor)
>
> Fiberglass Shower (Carolina Classic/Midway Series)
> Drainage - 14-1/2" off back frame wall (Cut 4" x 12" hole for tub
> waste)
> Water - Drill holes with 10" spread centered with tub waste
> Valve - Shower Head (51-1/2" with drop ear ell for shower head
> Hot/Cold - (I use stub-outs; copper bends designed for either
> pex or copper)
> Tub Spout (I use stub-out (copper)
HAF will drop it to 6'. I hate stooping in the shower.
>
> Washer Box
> Drainage - Trapped inside wall
> Water - (measure from center with 8" spread)
> Location - bottom lip of box measured to 35"
>
> Icemaker
> Water - approx. centered with refrigerator (mount 12" off subfloor to
> bottom of box)
tube in it. The tube is run under floor to Kitchen sink and we have a stop
on it there. We do it this way cuz who is home in the kitchen if the refer
go to hell and starts spraying water all over the place? the wife ofcorse.
No pulling out of refer needed to shut off water. ( and yes we know that
most homeowners dont know where their water shutoff is.) And one less joint
to leak!!
>
> This is a brief version of what I have so far. If you guys have other
> measurements in mind or other fixtures in mind, I would appreciate
> some input. These are all residential fixtures. If you guys need
> commercial measurements, we can address those rough measurements in
> another post. thanks.
Dale
Ps I am in Washington, the state..
Mark Monson
"Dale Wilcox" <dwilcox3...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:2yQ4c.3499$SR1.11128@attbi_s04...
> Blackbeard,
> Reply in line,
> "Blackbeard" <Blackbeard...@Lycos.com> wrote in message
> news:k4so40l24nij0pjq9...@4ax.com...
> > I've been working on a sheet for my class regarding rough-in height
> > for different fixtures. If you numbers are different, I'd be curious
> > to know what you guys use in other areas of the country.
> >
> > Kitchen Sink:
> > Drainage - 20" off subfloor (measure 8" right or left from center)
> > Water - 18: off subfloor (measure from center with 8" spread)
> I put the waste at 15", If you get a deep sink with a disposer then it can
> Waters good.
I agree with kitchen waste lower than lav waste.
> >
> > Lavatory:
> > Drainage - 18" off subfloor (measure to center of basin)
> > Water - 22" off subfloor (measure from center with 8" spread)
> This works ok tho I have moved to 19 on the waste as I was 1/4 to 1/2 inch
> from trapping without a slip extension.
I like 19-1/2 from sub floor for lav waste.
> >
> > Water Closet:
> > Drainage - 12-3/4" off frame wall for flange (cut 4-1/2" hole)
> > Water - 5" over/8" up (measure 5" to the left of flange center, stub
> > water pipe out 8" off subfloor)
> This is good. and 15 1/2" off sidewall if present or center in space.
> >
> > Fiberglass Shower (Carolina Classic/Midway Series)
> > Drainage - 14-1/2" off back frame wall (Cut 4" x 12" hole for tub
> > waste)
> > Water - Drill holes with 10" spread centered with tub waste
> > Valve - Shower Head (51-1/2" with drop ear ell for shower head
> > Hot/Cold - (I use stub-outs; copper bends designed for either
> > pex or copper)
> > Tub Spout (I use stub-out (copper)
> All good but shower. Kinda short, we set ours at 78" when you trim it the
> HAF will drop it to 6'. I hate stooping in the shower.
I go 80" from the shower or tub floor to shower arm rough. Tub/shower mixer
at 35". Shower only mixer at 45"
> >
> > Washer Box
> > Drainage - Trapped inside wall
> > Water - (measure from center with 8" spread)
> > Location - bottom lip of box measured to 35"
> Good
> >
> > Icemaker
> > Water - approx. centered with refrigerator (mount 12" off subfloor to
> > bottom of box)
> We set a ice box bottom at 6" off plate (on plate if subzero) and coil
1/4"
> tube in it. The tube is run under floor to Kitchen sink and we have a stop
> on it there. We do it this way cuz who is home in the kitchen if the refer
> go to hell and starts spraying water all over the place? the wife of
course.
> No pulling out of refer needed to shut off water. ( and yes we know that
> most homeowners don't know where their water shutoff is.) And one less
joint
> to leak!!
This is interesting, Dale. You still have the stop behind the fridge as
well as the one under the sink?
Dale Wilcox
"Mark Monson" <m_mo...@ztech.com> wrote in message
news:JZX4c.31838$p77....@bignews3.bellsouth.net...
No Mark, we use one continuous peace of soft from the Kitchen sink RI to the
ice box with about 10' or so coiled up in the box. At trim you just unroll
the tube from the box and attach to the inlet on the refer, this makes only
one potential leak point behind the refer that our insurance would be
responsible for. For some reason people like to have hardwood in their
kitchens and out here most floor damage in kitchens are caused by leaking
icemakers, so we try to keep our potential leak points to a minimum.
Blackbeard
input on what numbers are working for everyone and which numbers are
not. I've had the same problem with roughing those lavs at 18". I've
been roughing my residential lavs at 19" and I rough ADA lavatories at
20" (water pipes stub out at 22" off floor)
You got any solid measurements for a hi-low drinking fountain. When
you follow the cut sheet from the manufacturer it doesn't all go
together as smoothly as it could be.
Blackbeard
showerhead at 78" off the subfloor. That measurement of 51-1/2" is the
piece of copper I use between the valve body and the drop ear ell for
the shower head. But I mount the shower head at 78"
I use a piece of copper 33-1/2" long between valve body and shower
head for a shower only.
You mentioned a kitchen sink waste of 15" off the subfloor. I've never
roughed one that low. But it makes sense to me for the reason you
suggested. Will that 15" rough height also work on an ADA kitchen sink
where there is zero threshhold?
Thanks again for your input
by the way...what are you guys billing per fixture in your area? In my
area (North Carolina) we are billing residential fixtures out at
approx. $435/fixture (we count water heater and sewer line as 1
fixture each). Icemakers and hose bibbs are considered throw-ins
(freebies) in my area. But the contractors are trying hard to push
that price of $435/fixture down even lower. There are a few plumbing
contractors who have dropped at low as $400/fixture (I know one guy
who even did $385/fixture). For commercial work, we can generally get
between $1200-$1500 per fixture. I've heard of a few guys doing this
work for as little as $800/fixture. Our local plumbing association is
working hard to push those numbers up. I've been pushing for local
plumbers to agree on $600/fixture as a minimum. If we can agree on
that, it might actually be worth our time to rough new construction.
At $435/fixture you're barely making wages on the job. In our area,
the plumbing trade is doing poorly. Prices are less now than they were
ten years ago. Would like some input from you other guys. What are you
guys charging elsewhere in the country. Bear in mind that there is NO
UNION in my part of the country.
Service work in my area is usually price out at approx. $75/hour.
there are some companies that charge more, some charge less. But $75
is a good "average" for hourly rates on service work.
Water heater work is pretty weak. Generally you can bill out approx.
$225 for the labor on a water heater replacement + materials. I know
everyone else pretty much EVERYWHERE is making more for the same work.
But I don't see things changing around here until these local plumbers
work together and agree on a few things.
thanks again guys
Blackbeard
On Sun, 14 Mar 2004 03:43:58 GMT, "Dale Wilcox"
<dwilcox3...@comcast.net> wrote:
jim donovan
supplied?
Blackbeard
$425-$450/fixture includes everything. We supply the tubs and valves
and all necessary piping; we do excavations for sewer/water; we supply
icemaker boxes, hose bibbs, and washer box. On trim we supply toilets,
valves, etc. (gc only supplies the lavatory cabinetry and lavatory
basin. Getting to where you can't make any damn money at the current
pricing structure in my area.
I've been trying to work with these local contractors to push the
price per fixture average up around $600 (or more) like I see being
charged pretty much everywhere else. I had to pull away from new
residential. No damn money there to make it worth my time.
That's why I was looking for some feedback on what you guys are
charging in other areas.
user
estimate, what book or CD. You will then be right on in your AO.
NEVER UNDERCHARGE ! After all if not for a Plumber where could they go ?
People are made of money.
JP
"Blackbeard" <Blackbeard...@Lycos.com> wrote in message
news:erg95016r2u1snq1n...@4ax.com...