Delta Unisaws

[Trinidad Baltzell]

Ihave got to run a new 220 plug in the shop. I didn't have one close to where this saw will need to plug in. It doesn't have the factory switch on it either and that is okay but I will probably order it.

So any of you Unisaw owners got any good advice. I guess I can order the side cover and dust port unless someone knows where they can pick up one from a saw that is no longer working. I got a pretty good deal on this so I am okay with fixing it up. I just got to get busy, I have orders and now I don't have the saw ready to do any work. Guess what I will be doing next week.

From the photo it looks like the inside has a sloped dust slide. If it does, it is like mine. I do have the side panel, and there is an opening..........maybe 4"x 14" that I had to have a discharge connection built to suck out the saw dust. Mine is "ONLY" 20 yrs old. But I think both were built before dust collection became such a big thing.

I was really surprised the top cleaned up that good. When I picked it up and saw it I was thinking I may not be able to bring it back. I think I will give it one more going over then put the wax to it.

Mine has a metal, stamped panel that came with the saw. Delta or unisaw may have a web site that you can research the age of your saw. Maybe by typing in the serial number. ............or maybe just calling them, as a last ditch effort.

John Moody said,:,

I uses some 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper and some penetrating oil and a ROS. After I got most of it off, I took some 400 grit wet/dry with an oil similar to WD-40 and went over it again. I then took a scotch brite pad with some oil and went back over it. Buffed it clean and that is what you have. The top is as smooth as can be.

Gary I got the serial number and checked. It was built in March of '88. The model is a 34-801, but I haven't been able to determine if it is a version 1 or version 2. Do you have a picture of yours for the front and side you could post or send me?

Gary Heltemes said:

Nice job on the top. A single edge razor blade can help alot with rust if need be. It takes time, but does a great job. John, if you need parts for the saw, maybe try making them yourself out of some sheet metal or even mdf. It costs you time, but I am sure the parts from delta will not be cheap if they even have them. Using the little magnets from Lee Valley or someplace works great to hold the panels on. If I can help with anything, let me know. bob

John...........My morning is going to be busy, but I'll get a photo later this morning and try to post it after the noon hour.

I'll do my best to get a good photo, but my table extention and a cabinet really hide the right side of my saw, Oh ya. I bought my saw in 90-91.

John Moody said:

John..........here ya are. It's really the best I can do see'ns how I have it surrounded with benches etc. Hope this helps ya. You can see the motor cover and the galvanized box/cover I had built to direct sawdust to my collection hose..

John Moody said:

Gary, thanks and yea, I see how you have it surrounded do it can't get away. I guess I will start on making a motor cover this weekend and see how it goes. Got a little wiring to do first and should have that finished tomorrow night.

Man I wished the original plinth on your Unisaw was cast iron instead of sheet metal as I have an extra. I also have 2 extra Unisaw cabinets, but they pre-date the cabinet like yours and have the semi-ovular hole intended for the old cast iron motor cover in lieu of the later model "square cornered" opening as is on your saw.

If you are going to have your Unisaw in an open area here is my humble suggestion for a down and dirty / quick to build motor cover that would also serve as a storage cabinet of sorts and although this "hillbilly engineered" add-on would not be original .........it could be as handy as a pocket on a shirt.

Here are my thoughts: design a square or rectangular 3/4" plywood box that obviously is a bit larger than than the motor cover opening that was wide enough to accept the protrusion of the motor, then 1" or so from the motor add a panel inside the box that would cover the motor and serve as a "false" or "recessed" back of sorts that would be used to hang saw blades / perhaps a dado set / wrenches / miter for saw / etc. then add a few inches to the width and hang a door on the "box / motor cover"........ I would use the same type plywood to construct a door and use hidden hinges on said outside cover or door. In other words a rectangular box with a recessed back to cover the motor and serve to hang the aforementioned items on that has a functional door. The box could be designed to replicate the original sheet metal cover even down to rounded corners if need be and given the use of internal hinges that were spring loaded a person finish the box cover out with primer and paint to match your Unisaw and to look at it from the outside it would look like a sheet metal box until you opened the door and wala a place to store most of the Unisaw accessories out of site in a dust free environment. I would probably go one more step in this design and vent the bottom of the motor cover / accessory "box" to get a bit of extra air to the motor. If this is clear as mud I can provide a drawing, but I think you can read between my disjointed thoughts to see what I am trying to convey.

Again this bit of "hillbilly engineerin" would not be "stock" Delta, but I think would work to cover the motor, deaden the sound of the saw, create a handy storage area for your Unisaw accessories and other goodies for the saw or for the area that would be close to the saw.

hey john, looks like it will make a good saw, i too picked up a used saw a number of years ago and since then i replaced the motor with a 4 hp one and just installed a 52" unifence. ps i believe that my saw was built in 47

Paul, thanks. As you can see this one has the 52" fence. In another thread there is a picture with the extension table back on it. I still got to get the motor cover and get it connected to my dc. It runs very smooth. I think it has found a home.

But, I can't find any more info. I'd really like to be able to research the saw before I buy. Can anyone help me out with some info? Anything I should watch out for? I truly appreciate any sage advice y'all have.

What fence is that? It's not OEM. Not much to say about the 1995 unisaw other than its pretty much the same saw(minus the motor) that delta made from 1940-2005ish? Workhorse light industry machine. 3hp single phase? If it's under $900, I'd say that's a no brainer purchase.

I'm not skilled at looking under the hood (what to look for) Any hints on what I should be looking for that may indicate I'm buying a lemon? I'm figuring I'll be replacing the blade and getting new inserts, and cast iron Is pretty straight forward. I'm not mechanically inclined though with knowing a crappy motor, or worn parts.

Single phase? I don't remember the last one I've seen with a motor cover. My daily user is about the same, but probably older. I don't pay much attention to tool birthdates. Since this picture was taken, I've quit dragging that cast iron router wing around with this saw, and put the original smaller wing back on it.

Belts are cheap to replace. I think a matched set of three from plaza machinery is $11? I'd ask the owner if he ever replaced the arbor and motor bearing. I think you can usually expect 15-20 years of life out of a quality bearing, which means the 1995 saw is either coming due, or he did it already and you are good for another decade plus. It's pretty easy to swap bearings, but you made it seem like you wanted nothing to do with machine work. Personally, I would factor in replacing the belts and bearings with the purchase price. Worn belts will lead to vibration, and shot bearings can ruin an arbor shaft. These are easier to do when you have the saw apart and moving it compared to when you have it in place with dust collection, out feed table etc. table saw's often get entrenched, so I would suggest doing everything the right way before moving it to its final home. We are talking about $40-50 in parts for what I just prescribed.

Holy mackerel guys... Thank you SO much Pwk5017, wdwerker and Brendon_t. This is exactly what I was hoping a forum would be able to provide... support and mentorship for a guy in the boonies just getting back to handwork after a REALLY long time off (stopped building around 99 and just getting back in, although without it being my profession)

These are super helpful, and although I'm not skilled with motors yet, I'll be thrilled to learn and will take your advice with replacing the belts and bearing. if I see signs of wear and if the bearing hasn't been replaced. My guess is is hasn't. The saw was donated to a vocational school in Maine from a fabrication shop. The school only uses sawstop technology for the safety factor, and hence I'm getting the deal of the century from craigslist.

Soo.. being that it came from an industrial shop, I would be darn sure to check it out from all angles. Shops can be hard on tools. A unisaw is up to the challenge as long as it is maintained. I would also wonder why a business gave away a machine.

Changing bearings ain't no thing. It's a fairly simple operation with common tools most will have, a bearing puller can be rented for free from auto zone. If nothing else, it will get you familiar with the saw and setup

I am no mechanic. Brendon kind of is, i think. Well, the guy has snap-on tools, and I have a 1950s set of craftsman wrenches from my grandpap's estate. Taking the unisaw apart is easy peasy. There is a video that delta produced with some old guy yanking the saw apart and replacing the arbor bearing. If it were me, i would take $500 to that school and tell them it's an industrial setting saw and they should be glad to have $500 to get it off their hands. I would then take it home, disassemble the thing following delta's youtube video. Take the arbor to a machine shop/mechanic to pull the bearing and put on a new one. Same for the motor bearing. Then, order your 3 belts from Joe at plaza machinery and assemble the whole thing for a top notch saw. It is such a pain in the ass to pull the bearing from the arbor with a cheapo pulley/bearing puller from pep boys. They will rent it for free, but it sucks so bad to use. I did 3 unisaws last year, and that bearing puller and i dont ended with bad blood in the pep boy's parking lot. Spend the $10-20 at a shop for them to do the work for you. They do it right, and you wont break a sweat. This is coming from a guy that changes air filters, oil, and thats about it on his car.

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