[Passport] P42 comments.

[John Baudendistel]

Harvey,

 

I'll attempt to answer your questions.

On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 9:09 AM, Harvey J. Karten <hjka...@ucsd.edu> wrote:

Hi John,

Many thanks for the information on the chainplates. After sending off my inquiry last night I came across a paragraph in Bob Perry's recent book "Yacht Design According to Perry" in his chapter on Passport Yachts. He speaks highly of the Huntingford Passport 42/Slocum 43. But his comments in that chapter also note that the head of Passport Yachts Wendel Renkin, insisted on modifying the design of many of the marine designers.

"Wendel had a unique hull-to-deck joint detail he insisted on using, and II'll grant him that it was very waertight. However, it involved burying steel into the laminate so that stanchions and other fittings at the deck edge could be tapped into this plate instead  of being through-bolted. This type of detail can be great when the boat is new, but over the years it can make retrofitting new components difficult."

 

Perry's description is certainly consistent with your analysis. The use of embedded chainplates is also a feature of many of the early Ericson construction. My son's Ericson 41 also has embedded chainplates that are virtually impossible to remove for evaluation.

 

On a different aspect of the P42, how easily does it move in light airs (as in Southern California). I have the sense that it is extremely solid and comfortable in big ocean swells.

My 42 is rigged with a 125 Jenoa.  The boat is cutter rigged.  I have a mast mounted 17" spinnaker pole with a 6:1 purchase.  The pole can be managed by one person.  The set up works great for downwind work.  In light air I find the 130 and stay sail work fine for me moving the boat adequately.  More air is better of course.  I have resealed and conter sunk all 999 deck screws with a screw slightly shorter.  Replugged the entire deck.  I had no leaks but was losing plugs.  I still have good deck thickness for another 15 years at least with proper care.  I have no leaks and had no leaks prior to the deck replug.  I have surfaced the rubber down once, which revealed fresh rubber below the top layer.  This was 5 years ago.    This also flattened the deck out from prior owners whom scrubbed it. I'm now due for reseaming. The deck from my understanding is made with a balso core.  Wiring is fine and has not been a problem area.  The 42 is well laid out and neat in the electrical box.  A nice design on the 42 is that all of the water tanks are below the cabin sole. 2 ss tanks 75 gallons each.  This frees up the seettes for massive amounts of storage under the seats.  The 2 fuel tanks are in the aft under the cockpit.  Fuel tanks are black iron fiberglassed over.  Working fine.  Mine has 75 and 35 gallon fuel tanks.  There is a massive amount of storage in the aft lazzarette lockers.  Some have installed generators, and air compressors in this space.  Pleanty of room for large spinnaker bags in the aft locker.  The propane locker holds 2 large 10 gallon tanks.  I really like the cutter rig.  Mine is rigged with dual pro-furlers up front.  For storm configuration just roll in the jenoa, roll out the stay sail.  I have a triple reefed main.  So when it's really nasty like on the Costal cup in 2003, I put out 2' of the stay sail and put in a triple reefed main.  This was fine with 40 knots going downhill to Catalina Island.  If you want to know more please feel free to ask. 

 

John B.

Dream Keeper

P42

 

Have there been any serious issues with water pentration into the deck core by the many screws holding the teak decking in place? Did they use plywood in the decks, or was it balsa end-grain embedded in polyester?

 

I noticed that the wiring is all untinned on the boat I saw. Did you find the same condition on your P42 and did you think it necessary to replace it?

 

Any problems with the fuel or water tanks? I know that tanks on the Tayanas, Baba/Tashibas, and many other Taiwanese boats often gave up the ghost after about 20 years.

Many thanks for your help.

regards,

Harvey

 

 

----- Original Message -----

From: John Baudendistel

To: Karten, Harvey

Cc: Passport Owners

Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 8:35 AM

Subject: Re: [Passport] Re: Chain plate Replacement

Harvey,

 

Hello.  I have the P42.  The chain plates are integral and fiberglassed into the hull.  They form sort of an 'h".  They are extremely difficult to remove.  I have not heard of any well maintained P42 boats needing a replacement.  One owner did so just because he wanted to.  The deck around the 42 does not have teak around the chain plates and has a fiberglass 'mound' built up around the chain plates.  They are also sealed in.  On the 40's they are more level with the deck I believe.  Let me know if you have other questions.

 

John B.

Dream Keeper

P42

1985

On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 8:57 PM, Harvey <hjka...@ucsd.edu> wrote:

Have any members knowledge of how to access, evaluate and possibly
replace the chainplates on a Huntingford Passport 42? I was recently
looking at one as a possible replacement for our Tayana 37. I liked
the interior and cockpit, but was concerned about various maintenance
issues. I could see solutions to virtually all the obvious issues, but
couldn't figure out how to even see how the chainplates were anchored
to the hull, much less how I might ever remove them for detailed
inspection and replacement. I could see where then entered the deck,
and then disappeared behind teak trim in the cabinets.

My concern was serious enough that I am uncertain about the wisdom of
proceeding with any further evaluation of this lovely boat.

I would appreciate and guidance that other members might give me.

many thanks,
Harvey

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[Gary Wilson]

Harvey,

 

My observations have been like John's, except when I replaced the windlass, I drilled some pretty large holes in the foredeck and was able to inspect the core.  It is not balsa, but teak plywood.  I was told by the broker when we bought it that the deck core is a checkerboard of 4" square plywood pads embedded in the fiberglass, then filled between and covered over with more fiberglass.  The distinct 4" square pads keep any water leaks from migrating too far through the core.  The overall thickness of the deck is about 2 inches.  There was a 3/8" thick mild steel backing plate (very rusty) embedded in the fiberglass deck under the windlass, which I dug out and replaced with T6061 aluminum (exposed to view).

 

We had our deck sanded, refastened and recaulked right after we bought it.  The deck planks are 5/8" thick, so plenty thick to redrill the screw holes a little deeper.

 

Gary Wilson

P42 Sidetrack

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: John Baudendistel [mailto:jo...@ets247.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 09:30 AM
To: 'Harvey J. Karten'
Cc: 'Passport Owners'
Subject: [Passport] P42 comments.

Harvey,

 

I'll attempt to answer your questions.

On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 9:09 AM, Harvey J. Karten <hjka...@ucsd.edu> wrote:

Hi John,

Many thanks for the information on the chainplates. After sending off my inquiry last night I came across a paragraph in Bob Perry's recent book "Yacht Design According to Perry" in his chapter on Passport Yachts. He speaks highly of the Huntingford Passport 42/Slocum 43. But his comments in that chapter also note that the head of Passport Yachts Wendel Renkin, insisted on modifying the design of many of the marine designers.

"Wendel had a unique hull-to-deck joint detail he insisted on using, and II'll grant him that it was very waertight. However, it involved burying steel into the laminate so that stanchions and other fittings at the deck edge could be tapped into this plate instead  of being through-bolted. This type of detail can be great when the boat is new, but over the years it can make retrofitting new components difficult."

 

Perry's description is certainly consistent with your analysis. The use of embedded chainplates is also a feature of many of the early Ericson construction. My son's Ericson 41 also has embedded chainplates that are virtually impossible to remove for evaluation.

 

On a different aspect of the P42, how easily does it move in light airs (as in Southern California). I have the sense that it is extremely solid and comfortable in big ocean swells.

My 42 is rigged with a 125 Jenoa.  The boat is cutter rigged.  I have a mast mounted 17" spinnaker pole with a 6:1 purchase.  The pole can be managed by one person.  The set up works great for downwind work.  In light air I find the 130 and stay sail work fine for me moving the boat adequately.  More air is better of course.  I have resealed and conter sunk all 999 deck screws with a screw slightly shorter.  Replugged the entire deck.  I had no leaks but was losing plugs.  I still have good deck thickness for another 15 years at least with proper care.  I have no leaks and had no leaks prior to the deck replug.  I have surfaced the rubber down once, which revealed fresh rubber below the top layer.  This was 5 years ago.    This also flattened the deck out from prior owners whom scrubbed it. I'm now due for reseaming. The deck from my understanding is made with a balso core.  Wiring is fine and has not been a problem area.  The 42 is well laid out and neat in the electrical box.  A nice design on the 42 is that all of the water tanks are below the cabin sole. 2 ss tanks 75 gallons each.  This frees up the seettes for massive amounts of storage under the seats.  The 2 fuel tanks are in the aft under the cockpit.  Fuel tanks are black iron fiberglassed over.  Working fine.  Mine has 75 and 35 gallon fuel tanks.  There is a massive amount of storage in the aft lazzarette lockers.  Some have installed generators, and air compressors in this space.  Pleanty of room for large spinnaker bags in the aft locker.  The propane locker holds 2 large 10 gallon tanks.  I really like the cutter rig.  Mine is rigged with dual pro-furlers up front.  For storm configuration just roll in the jenoa, roll out the stay sail.  I have a triple reefed main.  So when it's really nasty like on the Costal cup in 2003, I put out 2' of the stay sail and put in a triple reefed main.  This was fine with 40 knots going downhill to Catalina Island.  If you want to know more please feel free to ask. 

 

John B.

Dream Keeper

P42

 

Have there been any serious issues with water pentration into the deck core by the many screws holding the teak decking in place? Did they use plywood in the decks, or was it balsa end-grain embedded in polyester?

 

I noticed that the wiring is all untinned on the boat I saw. Did you find the same condition on your P42 and did you think it necessary to replace it?

 

Any problems with the fuel or water tanks? I know that tanks on the Tayanas, Baba/Tashibas, and many other Taiwanese boats often gave up the ghost after about 20 years.

Many thanks for your help.

regards,

Harvey

 

 

--

[John Baudendistel]

Harvey,

 

Gary is correct.  I forgot about the 4" squares. John