[papercreters] Plans for a 55 gallon plastic barrel mixer

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drivedoctor

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Aug 23, 2007, 10:46:18 PM8/23/07
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Hello Everyone,

I purchased some cheap ($6 ea.) used 55-gallon plastic barrels that
contained commercial diswashing detergent to build a papercrete mixer
and want to have the mixing blade come up through the bottom of the
mixer.

I want to build a platform similar to what Mike McCain has in his
1997 "Introduction to Fibercrete" video from DirtCheapBuilder.com.

McCain used a gasoline engine with a horizontal shaft that ran under
the platform to a 90-degree angle drive that powered an edger blade
in the bottom of the plastic barrel. I initally want to substitue
the gas engine with a 2HP electric motor.

Are there any suggestions for some off-the-shelf parts to connect to
the electric motor or possibly used auto or farming equipment?

I've seen some small drive shafts for post hole digging machines
online a the Tractor and Supply Co. website (www.mytscstore.com) that
I think will work. But I'm not sure what use to connect the shaft to
at the bottom of the barrel.

Just a friendly note here... I'm really surprised as a group we
haven't come up with a set of "uniformed" plans where a person could
purchase off the shelf parts or used parts to make a 55-gallon drum
mixer. This way all the papercrete newbies could quickly get their
hands wet making slurry rather than trying to figure all the
technical aspects of building a mixer.

As a group project, I would like to suggest we formulate a uniformed
55-gallon mixer plan and parts list and post it to the files section
of this newsgroup.

Mark in Oklahoma City

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Spaceman

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Aug 24, 2007, 12:06:00 AM8/24/07
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That's an excellent idea! My 55 gallon electric mixer uses a 1 HP motor mounted on top, with a pull out frame that gets clamped in place. That way I didn't have to worry about a seal for the shaft entering the drum, and I can move it from drum to drum. The motor and shaft and bearings were evaporative cooler parts and the frame is made from bar and tube steel.

As you are building yours, take lots of pictures and notes for the parts list. Somewhere like Harbor Freight or Northern Tools should have a 90 degree drive that will handle 2hp.

Spaceman

drivedoctor wrote:

) that 
I think will work. But I'm not sure what use to connect the shaft to 
at the bottom of the barrel.

Just a friendly note here... I'm really surprised as a group we 
haven't come up with a set of "uniformed" plans where a person could 
purchase off the shelf parts or used parts to make a 55-gallon drum 
mixer.  This way all the papercrete newbies could quickly get their 
hands wet making slurry rather than trying to figure all the 
technical aspects of building a mixer.

As a group project, I would like to suggest we formulate a uniformed 
55-gallon mixer plan and parts list and post it to the files section 
of this newsgroup.

Mark in Oklahoma City



 
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slurryguy

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Aug 24, 2007, 6:55:50 AM8/24/07
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I agree that it would be nice to have some step by step instructions
about how to build a mixer. Are you voluntering to write those
instructions? Since you're in the process of building a mixer, you
could easily take some pictures to document the process you go
through.

One reason I believe that there isn't a "standard" version of a mixer
is that nearly every mixer I've seen, heard about, read about, or
whatever has been built using various scrap materials. Most people
build their mixer out of stuff they have laying around. This doesn't
lend itself to easy duplication. The closest thing to a standard
mixer type is McCain's "Third world tow mixer" design.

Keep in mind that most every papercrete mixer is a very dangerous
piece of equipment. Spinning blades inside a tank or barrel that is
large enough for someone to fall into has obvious inherint safety
issues. While common sense is perhaps the best safety device around,
none of us can reasonably assume that everyone that looks at a set of
plans we might produce will exercise common sense. Suffice it to say
that plenty of cautions and disclaimers would be appropriate.

More than once on this list I've encouraged all of us to get into the
habit of checking inside the mixer EVERY TIME before it gets started
up. For motivation, imagine the HORROR if a small child thought that
your mixer would be a good hiding place for a game of hide and seek.
It's not fun to think about, but I'd rather periodically remind
everyone of such potential than to have it really happen even once.

I humbly suggest that if we are to publish plans for a mixer it
should be made as safe as possible.

--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "drivedoctor" <drivedoctor@...>
wrote:

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Spaceman

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Aug 24, 2007, 10:58:26 AM8/24/07
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Because of the need for a mixer to process relatively large chunks of paper, and to have free flow around the blades, making one that would meet OSHA safety standards is going to be a challenge. My untow mixer is relatively safe if I put the top on and clamp it down before mixing, but it is more often run with the top open so I can add to the mix.

My barrel mixer is safer because it would be hard to crawl into it, and the blade is low enough that you cannot easily stick your hand into it while it is running. Even a small child would have difficulty crawling into that one.

Spaceman



slurryguy wrote:

I humbly suggest that if we are to publish plans for a mixer it 
should be made as safe as possible.

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slurryguy

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Aug 24, 2007, 2:38:16 PM8/24/07
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There are other features that would make sense to add for mixer
saftey.

If someone is contemplating an electrically powered mixer GFCI
protection comes to mind.

Other more simple design features can be effective. Physically
locating the on/off switch far enough away that it cannot be
accidentally bumped while loading/unloading the mixer makes sense.

Large commercial machinery often uses two push buttons to activate.
The buttons are 2-3 ft apart. This requires that the operator use
both hands to start the machine. If the hands are pushing buttons,
they aren't inside the machine and at risk. This may be more complex
to implement though.

I guess someone could also add a lid sensor, like a washing machine
has. If someone lifts the lid, it cuts mixer power.

Of course, none of this replaces common sense.

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slurryguy

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Aug 25, 2007, 7:53:13 AM8/25/07
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This post got me thinking about sealed shaft bearings that might get
used on the bottom of a mixer.

Back in the old days before cars started having electic water pumps
they used to have pulley driven water pumps. Some still have 'em.

I wonder if an old belt driven water pump off a big honkin' engine
would be a perfect bearing? I'm NOT suggesting trying to use it as a
papercrete pump. I'm just wondering if one could take advantage of
the sealed bearing.

Finding one at a junk yard should be trivially easy and very cheap.
It is designed to work in a wet environment, and under heat and
pressure too. They're designed to simply be bolted to an engine with
a simple gasket. Bolting such a pump to the bottom of a mixer should
be a snap. There would probably need to be some reinforcing steel on
the inside of the barrel to bolt against, but that's simple to do.
The only trick would be welding a mixer blade to the pump impeller
somehow.

Obviously I've never tried this, but it might be a nice belt driven
shaft with a sealed bearing and belt pulley.

It might make building a electric barrel mixer a snap. Might work
well for a small lawn mower engine powered barrel mixer too.

Just thinkin' outside the box.



--- In papercreters@yahoogroups.com, "drivedoctor" <drivedoctor@...>
wrote:
>

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ken bolin

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Aug 25, 2007, 10:33:20 AM8/25/07
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It would seem welding the same size and hole pattern washer thats on the fan hub of the pump to the motor shaft of the power unit would be the fix. Then just sandwich the blade your useing between the washers. 



slurryguy <slurryguy@yahoo.com> wrote:

This post got me thinking about sealed shaft bearings that might get
used on the bottom of a mixer.

Back in the old days before cars started having electic water pumps
they used to have pulley driven water pumps.


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