HDR Tips and Tricks

[Unknown]

Let's share and exchange our HDR-making experience, skills, tips and tricks.

How do you create your HDRs?

Photomatix, Photoshop?

Tripod, Hangs?

Film, Digital?

etc.

--

TripBY, photos

[Unknown]

Hello TripBY. I usually use Photomatix to create HDR image and tonemaping. After that, I process in Photoshop. According to the image I can create one or many HDR of the same image with different values ​​for then edit all layers in Photoshop to achieve the effect that I desire. I prefer a natural result before a grunge result  :)

Regards!!

[Unknown]

Since now I have used Photoshop and Photomatrix Pro,

once I tried Nik HDR Efex pro too.

Mostly I enjoy working with is Photoshop.

[Unknown]

Hello TripBY,

have experimented with a lot of processes.  I am now using Photomatix Pro but on friend advised me to switch to NIK HDR Efex Pro so I may do that.  As far as technique, there is always the basics of creating consistent images.  Here is the basic recipe I use.

1.  ISO of 100

2.  Always in RAW

3.  Aperture priority

4.  Tripod mount with shutter release

5.  0.5 EV for each image

6.  At least 20 images

7.  When using Photomatix, Tonemapping, Saturation at around 50 (depending on image); Strength at 75 and Gamma at 1.01.

8.  From there I adjust based on the image values

9.  In Photoshop, will make small adjustments or large ones (for instance, taking a completed HDR image and processing in POSTERS EDGE is very impactful).

10. Experiment, experiment, experiment.

Best wishes to all, Zacksoccer

[Unknown]

"At least 20 images".  Wow!!! I've never tried more than 7. :S

Hello everybody! =)

I agreed with Zacksoccer on using RAW and experiment, experiment, experiment...

Sometimes I use Dynamic Photo, sometimes Photoshop CS5, sometimes both of them. 

best regards. o/

[Unknown]

My HDR's are 3 bracketed RAW 0,+2.00,-2.00 EV images mostly @ 100ISO, but i think that depending on the light and the camera (mine is Canon 600D) it is possible to shoot good HDR images up to 400ISO considering that dinamic range for the single raw files decreases a lot as ISO increases.

for the post-processing i always use photomatix and photoshop, sometimes qtpfsgui which is open source and not too bad, i'll give a try to the NIK HDR Efex Pro someone's talking about.

i would like to ask zacksoccer what he means with processing an image in POSTERS EDGE

thank you all,

MV

[Unknown]

I shoot with a Nikon D90, the other night I did an experiment shooting @ iso1600 and then processing in Photomatix, after which I touched up in Lightroom. Very satisfied with the result.

The 3 photo's where -2 - 0 - +2

[Unknown]

I'm impressed with 20 images as well :)

[Unknown]

Thank you for the detailed comment.

Actually, I'm using PS to align the images before processing (if I didn't use tripod) and then Photomatix.

The figures I use - really depend on image. And I will try yours :)

The most difficult HDR I was making is Venice with flowing up-and-down gondolas (that was very difficult to align). Will upload this later, if you like to see.

[Unknown]

I am pretty new to this stuff but here goes;

I meter the brightest and darkest areas of a scene to find out how many stops of range there is using spot metering mode, I then divide that into 3 - 5 - or 7 exposures depending on how wide the range is while trying not to go more than 2 stops between exposures. I was setting exposures manually because my D3100 did not have bracketing, my recent upgrade to a D5100 allows for 3 exposure bracketing at up to 2 stop steps. I try to use a tripod but have had success hand holding also. I use mostly Photomatix but have recently acquired PS CS3 and am ready to give it a try. I have used Corel Paintshop Photo Pro X3 to do a few but the lack of de-ghosting and the fact many of my images have movement in them limited my ability to use it.

I also have downloaded and installed Stuarts Presets for Photomatix and use them to get me close to the effect I want, I then make further adjustments to tailor the setting for a particular image. For those interested in the presets they can be downloaded for free at http://the-yard-collective.deviantart.com/art/Stuart-s-Photomatix-Presets-109547798.

My D5100 does in camera HDR by taking and combining 2 exposures with settings of 1,2 and 3 stops, works pretty good but only save in JPEG format.

[Unknown]

Hi MV, One of the special effects in PS is POSTERS EDGE, I will sometimes use this to give a finer edge definition to a processed image...don't always use it but sometimes find it useful...best regards, zacksoccer

[Unknown]

Hey, I have been experimenting with HDR for some time now.

I am using Photomatix Pro, usually with RAW images. Up to now I have used an NIKON D80 which has a maximum of 3 exposures bracketing. I have taken some images with up to 9 exposures with this camera, but the time that manual settings between series of 3 exposures takes, limits the possibilities to make good images because of movement i the camera and the scene. I have mainly because of this upgraded to D300S which can take up to 9 exposures in bracketing.

I rarely use a tripod as I find the function aligning by matching features pretty good. Are however considering using more tripod to see if it gives a better result.

I also find the function in Photomatix for removing ghost with Selective Deghosting tool, that makes it possible to mark for example a person who was in motion during the exposures and choose one of the exposures to be displayed in the the processed image, very useful.

Thank you

TF

[Unknown]

TF, my recommendation is to ALWAYS use a tripod, especially for HDR...otherwise, the sharpness will never be acceptable...

[Unknown]

When I don't use tripod - I align with photoshop. Works perfect for me.

Sure, if the shots are not smoothed 

[Unknown]

For a great HDR blog, look at this site:  blog.kenkaminesky.com

[Unknown]

 Господа, с Фотоматрикс не пробовал, мне хватает RTGui , затем конечно ФОТОШОП . Но.. Господа, у нас в группе много работ, тех которым HDR не нужен..  Дневные снимки всегда можно снять без HDR, за исключением, конечно, для эстетов кадры против солнца ..

[Unknown]

смею возразить

помимо фото против солнца - есть множество контрастных картинок.

Поищите Alex Koloskov в Google+

[Unknown]

hi i use a number of software for hdr,

list.

photomatix

hdr efex pro.

nik colour efex.

topaz.

cs5.

noise software.

i take anywhere between 3 and 11 shots.1ev spacing plus depending on the weather conditions..

i seen a post on here upto 20 shots thats a lot.

i been doing hdr for about 4 years now.

my main work flow create the hdr as in photomatix,export to cs5 and use the oringal layer if theres any problems.

i do a fair bit of sharpening in cs5.

sometimes i use the nik filters.

then i use a noise software.

[Unknown]

HI all ;)

Well, for the workflow:

3 Bracketed with 2 EV steps as Canon without chdk or magic lantern hacks does not allow more. (I still experimenting)

Photomatix Pro

Photoshop with Noiseware Plugin to reduce noise as I usually like to work at night with the stars, but with sunsets and water as well. It's a pity I didn't know HDR 2 years ago ;P  I sure would have more stuff and experience as well ;)

And then, patience of course and of course the opportunity to capture some beautifull landscapes ;P

Of course, time to watch your HDR's as well ;)

[Unknown]

only av aperture allows 3 shots.

i take upto 11 in manual mode.

if i was doing 3 shot then av.

i dont use magic lantern

[Unknown]

Very good Software, 

http://www.zoner.com/ww-en 

30 days in full Trial, Like Photoshop but easy use. Have HDR, Tonemaping, RAW, Loot of extras. Just try. I make all my Photos in Zoner Photo Studio 14.

http://www.zoner.com/ww-en 

[Unknown]

Oloneo HDR engine

[Unknown]

Вот примеры моих работ:  http://www.panoramio.com/user/4366437/tags/hdr

Все фотографии сначала в "лайтрум", затем "HDR efex" и доработка в "фотошоп".

[Unknown]

hello, just started playing with HDR, using photomatix , also have Photoshop CS4 , 

the camera is my old Nikon D80 but i'm going to get an older Nikon D50 or a Canon 350D as it does hammer the shutter somewhat.  Take HDR up a level i'm playing with timelapse and combining with HDR

so a 10 second sequence is like 240 shots x 3 ( 24FPS ) , which hammers the shutter a bit hence using an older camera  as it does not matter about a HI end camera as its all shot in manual mode anyway.

Using a tracking dolly then to move the camera as the HDR timelapse is being shot produces good results. You can build this unit at fraction of the purchase cost if you have the skills.

regards All

[Unknown]

OMG 20 shoots now that would melt my shutter using in a HDR timelapse sequence, that would be like 1680 shots for a ten second clip, holy crap !!! not to mention my processor (i7) trying to do all that rendering . it would go into meltdown I bet.

[Unknown]

I'm currently using a 10 year old (ish) Canon EOS 10D, so I keep my bracketing to 1 stop increments. I combine the photos using Photomatix Pro, then tweak the image further in PS6 using the L*a*b* colour space, and then sharpen using the two ends of the unsharpen mask filter.

I always have the camera tripod mounted, unless time constrained, and shoot at ISO 100, AV priority.

I don't have any standard settings for Photomatix or Photoshop, it's all down to what looks best as I moved the sliders back and forth.

Regards,

[Unknown]

Best wishes to you too, my dear friend.

[Unknown]

I use Photomatix and a tripod with a digital DSLR camera. The results are consistent.

[Unknown]

Adding my setup as others. Interesting to se so many different yet similiar settings. And note, I'm more into "Enhanced HDR" or what some think is "to much" but hey, that's what I like. ;)

I use DSLR (Canon 5D mkii mostly, using modified firmware) on a tripod. In light condition (thus fast shutter speeds) handheld might work aswell, depending on subject and frame.

I've been using 5 frames at +/- 1 EV each earlier, but now notice that I can get basicly the same result using 3 frames +/- 2 EV's aswell. Not sure, why I'm settled down with just three, but this works for me. I've tried various of settings, from 12 images at +/- 0.5 EV I think, but...

Magic Lantern now allows alot of changes in these settings so that is something i recommend people to look more into.

RAW format, setting ISO at lowest possible. ISO have been up at 6400 at times due to the need to capture moments faster than slow shutter speeds. And I allways use aperture mode in around f/11 or so. F-stop depends on subject. f/1.8 works but then the focus shifts of course.

Photomatix only for me. Then imported into Photoshop for final editing. Basicly thats it for me.

[Unknown]

i use a Lumix LX7..because it´s more handable outside.
So mostly i use the bracketing-function with 3 shots with adjustable aperture. But my former LX2 was a bit better in that way, because it was possible to take 7 shots as bracket.
Sometimes i adjust it all manually and in this case i shot 7 or more pics.
After i use photomatix pro...