I just did perito Moreno the cyclist's way : 46 km against the wind to the bridge over Rio mitre, drinkable water, ok camping spot. Hid my gear in the bush. Got on the road at 5 am. Got to the park entrance around 5:30. You have to take the right hand side under the gate, then the left hand lane just after that or you'll hit a fence or a chain.
Made it to the glacier at 7:00. Alone with him until 9:00. An incredible moment, worth all the efforts of the first day. Easy to go back to el Calafate with the tailwinds. No one looked at me when i went out. But if i had to pay the 100 pesos, it would have been worth being by myself there with the rising sun, a precious moment few get to enjoy.
Just as a personal note, i would say that i find fine that cyclists who fight the elements to see the glaciers enter for free, i'd even say fair, compared to the planes, buses, taxis and 4wd, but on the other hand i find unacceptable to find rubbish such as a schwalbe tyre on the way to the park. I think we have to keep cycle-touring respectful. I'm sure most of you agree, and by the way i left that tyre there on the way in, thinking i'd pick it up on the way back, but with the speed and all the emotion i didn't find it. It's between km 8 and 15 on the lake side, if someone can pick up the eyesore That'd be great.
As for questions, i would just appreciate any recommendation on places to stay ( and leave the bike ) in puerto natales, and on treks in post-fire Torres del paine. Something not too long, not to hard, i have walking problems...
Enjoy the road and the sidetrips!
Bat