Mexico Notes
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jb7769
Jan 25, 2011, 8:00:41 PM1/25/11
to PanAm Riders
Hi Everyone
If anyone wants to use the notes I make as I go along here they
are ... they are of my route from getting off the ferry in Mazatlan to
crossing the Belize border - roads, where I stayed, tourist
attractions etc. Please, feel free to use them &/or pass them on to
others ...
Safe cycling
John
MAINLAND MEXICO
Mazatlán
Gorgeously renovated historic centre only a short walk from a 20km
crescent of sandy beach
Dates from 19th century
Cathedral Market Plazuela Machado (sip margaritas)
Watch sunset
Pebbly playa Olas Atlas
Playa Norte
Playa Sábalo Swimming
Clavadistas (cliff divers) Best lunchtime Saturday or Sunday
El Faro lighthouse 2nd highest in world; views of old town
Avoid zona dorada = touristy
Clínica Balboa
C/S Jorge Valdez
Hotel Lerma, Simón Bolivar 622 & Aquiles Serdán cheapest hotel in old
town
Hotel del Río & Santa Barbara, Juárez M$200 a double
Hotel Vialta, Azueta 206 3 blocks from market
RV Parks, Camarón Sábalo Including RV Park Villas al Mar
Kelly’s Bicycle Shop www.kellys-bikes.com
Live music Banda sinaloense
Mazatlán To Durango (320km)
All paved
The coast-to-coast highway (15) is four lanes with a good shoulder to
Villa Unión where the road heading east to Durango is the 40D (cuota)
until Concordia – again with a good shoulder – after which it becomes
a shoulderless normal highway (40) until El Salto, when you have the
choice of following the 40 or taking the 40D
Trucks are frequent but they travel at very reduced speeds
Traffic thins out in rural areas
Crosses Sierra Madre & is one of Mexico’s most scenic roads
Mesillas
Furniture makers everywhere
Concordia 40km
Picturesque colonial town in Sierra Madre foothills
Founded in 1565 with a well-kept plaza & splendid 18th-century church
with a baroque facade & elaborately decorated columns
No more banks after here until El Salto
High-quality pottery & hand-carved furniture
Copala 24km (from Concordia)
Cobblestoned-road slightly uphill from the highway into town
Founded in 1565
A mining ghost town > one of Mexico’s 1st mining town
Colonial church (1748), colonial houses & cobblestoned streets
Very strenuous – 2000m+ - climbing to El Palmito
La Capilla del Taxte 18km (from Copala)
1 hospedaje & several places to stock up on food
Restaurants, including ‘Levy’ (carne asada)
El Palmito 33km (from La Capilla del Taxte)
2 very basic hospedajes
Good place to stock up on food
Durango state = 1 hour ahead of Sinaloa > the border is just past El
Palmito
El Espinazo del Diablo
Before La Ciudad the road goes through a spectacular section – many
vertical-sided canyons
The road crosses a narrow 50m-long bridge with verticals drops on both
sides (20km before La Ciudad)
Army checkpoint on the plateau just before the road descends into La
Ciudad
La Ciudad 53km (from El Palmito)
1 very basic hospedaje – no heating or hot water although at 2500m (M
$100)
Also saw cabañas advertised at the entrance to town
22km after La Ciudad is 2800m pass
Mexiquillo
Expensive mountain cabins near here, just off Hwy 40, but great views
El Salto 45km (from La Ciudad)
A logging town
Pemex at Estación Coyotes – cafe across the street, before the toll
road begins
Toll road – 40D – starts here to Durango & can be followed to the
extreme north of the town & then drop through El Ciprés
Very little traffic on 40D
Nothing on the highway at all, only one working set of toll booths
where you turn onto the 40 10km from Durango
All land fenced off on both sides of the road & often drops into
canyons & fields, so not easy to find a free camping spot
Llano Grande
Only one of 2 turnoffs from 40D – how far off the highway is it?
1 very basic hospedaje – no heating or hot water
Durango
Traffic picked up close to Durango, a large urban city
Traffic in Durango is heavy and polluting from the city limits
Look out for 1-way streets
Founded in 1563
W/S Frida Blum
Very old hotel (Hotel Plaza Catedral?) on delightful Plaza de Armas
but clean & affordable with a balcony view or Hotel Buenos Aires (M
$120)
In the pedestrian precinct apparently engaged couples stroll on
Saturday evening in national costume & Mariachis play in front of the
hotels
Revolutionary Pancho Villa born in northern Durango state (see LP,
p330, Central Northern Mexico)
Da Vinci Cafe, Plaza de Armas (LP)
Restaurant La Gloria Free Tibet stickers
Movie Locations Villa del Oeste, 12km north of city (LP) & Chupaderos,
3km further
HIGH PLAINS OF NORTHERN MEXICO
Peaceful enough with arid high plains, scattered stunted dark-coloured
trees
Upland semi-desert
Little traffic & it gave us lots of space, many waves & friendly beeps
Weather is moderate at high elevation (2100-2500 metres): top
temperatures = 32°C
Durango to Zacatecas – Hwy 45/D (300km)
Traffic scarce leaving Durango & almost nothing on the only road to
Zacatecas
Generous shoulder on the road for 90km to around KM190, except in a
couple of areas for less than 1km, then narrow road but the traffic is
light
Shoulder disappears for about 60km from before Sombrerete, then
returns for the rest of the trip south to north of Fresnillo where you
have 2 choices: take the ‘libre’ into Fresnillo or bypass Fresnillo on
the ‘cuota’
If you take the ‘cuota’ the shoulder ends at KM12 before Zacatecas but
remains 2 lanes for all but 2km or so – very slow uphill cycling for
last few kms until you drop down into the old town
Nombre de Díos 45km
Hotel Ofelia (M$150) w/ hot water & a decent wifi connection
Vicente Guerrero 30km (from Nombre de Díos)
92km after Durango & beyond VG dry camping at a cattle control station
(shower, toilet) building
Hotel Sierra ? Inn Turn right at bridge & it’s signposted 200m later;
turn left to get there
PN Sierra de Organos (20km west of Sombrete)
Distinctive rock formations create a land of fantastic towering sand
castles petrified by time
Camping (M$20)
Entrance = 10km from highway
Sombrerete 43km (from Vicente Guerrero)
Really nice small village with narrow cobblestone streets, quiet
central plaza, colonial buildings
Locals claim that Thomas Edison was born here
Hotel Hacienda Grande (M$230)
Pass the Tropic of Cancer before Sain Alto
Sain Alto 42km (from Sombrerete)
Town is 2km off the highway but no need to go in – there are 2
loncherías just past the turning
El Baluarte 43km (from Sombrerete)
Great pollería (M$45) for ¼ chicken & drink
Fresnillo 22km (from El Baluarte)
Uninteresting town
Can bypass using ‘cuota’
Last 10km along a narrow road with no shoulder if you do decide to go
into town
Hotel El Paisano between Fresnillo & Plateros (M$190)
Take the ‘cuota’, avoid Fresnillo & there are lots of hotels in
Plateros or on the road into Fresnillo
Plateros 5km (from Fresnillo)
Santuario de Plateros One of Mexico’s most-visited shrines
Morelos
Trailer Park: Morelos Junction (where Hwys 54 & 49 cross) – didn’t see
it
Zacatecas 60 km (from Fresnillo)
Founded in 1548
Most northern of Mexico’s silver-cities
Colonial architecture / UNESCO-listed central district (whole city is
a Museum)
From high outskirts the way down to the centre is on some steep
cobblestone streets.
Dorm bed in Hostal Villa Colonial (1 block from the main cathedral &
rooftop kitchens with a view of the city), Las Margaritas & Los Gallos
(M$90-120)
Cerro de la Bufa – impressive rock outcrop > superb views of the town
Ride to the opposite hill, El Grillo, with the Teleférico, a cable car
made in Switzerland that travels over the city & takes you to the
entrance of the Mina El Edén
Former mine where silver was extracted for centuries before becoming
too expensive
Thousands of Indians forced to work underground by the Spanish
Pancho Villa defeated a stronghold of soldiers
Callejoneadas (LP, p526)
Guadalupe (side trip) 10km
Need a couple of hours to wander through the monastery
Ex-convent where there is the famous statue of the Virgen de
Guadalupe.
Zacatecas to León (250km)
Take 45D with its good, wide shoulder all the way to the outskirts of
Aguascalientes when it becomes 3- & 4-lanes until getting right into
the narrow, old centre
South of Zacatecas is more desert, but with a bit more variety
Ciudad Cuauhtemoc
Eat at one of the roadside restaurants
Several small h/motels
Luis Moyo
Bigger than CC but didn’t stop
Rincón de Romos
Away from the road
Pabellón de Arteaga
Away from the road
Aguascalientes 116km (from Zacatecas)
Cathedral More beautiful inside than out > painting of Virgen de
Guadalupe
Palacio de Gobierno Mural of 1914 convention
Templo del Encino Black statue of Jesus
Museo Nacional de la Muerte (M$20)
Expoplaza Cinema
Lukas Hostel, Farías 541 (M$100) [closed] Hostal La Katharina, ?? (M
$120)
Peñuelas
Lagos de Moreno 75km (from Aguascalientes)
Hotel La Traje (M$295) w/cable TV
León 128km (from Aguascalientes)
The home of leather (shoes, jackets, saddles etc.) > Zona Piel (bus
station) + other shopping
16th century
Centre of Mexico’s ranching district supplying meat for mining towns &
processing hides
Pretty historical centre
Plaza Principal (aka Plaza de los Mártires)
Plaza de los Fundadores
Festival del Globo November-December
Hector Amaya
Hostal La Bombilla (dorm M$120)
Silao
Guanajuato 56km (from León)
40% of world’s silver once came from Guanajuato state
Founded in 1559 on rich deposits of gold & silver found in La
Valenciana mine in 1558
Slashing of wealth from mines was one of main factors for War of
Independence (LP, p548)
Vicente Fox was governor of Guanajuato state before 2000 election
victory
UNESCO-listed
Main street = Juárez
Maze of crooked callejones windingup from centre
Traffic in city based around 9 tunnels
Many famous old churches, including ‘Templo La Valenciana’ which
contains gold and silver ornate altars, carvings & giant paintings
Built by a miner who promised if he made it rich he would build a
church
He found the mother lode which produced 20% of the world silver plus
gold, nickel & lead
Carretera Panorámica gives great views of the city
Jardín de la Unión Social heart of the city (buskers, mariachis)
Plaza de la Paz Wealthy buildings
Basílica de NSra de Guanajuato Wooden statue of Virgen de Guanajuato
Plazuela de los Angeles leads to Callejón del Beso (narrowest of
alleys) via Patrocinio
Jardín de la Reforma
Plaza San Roque
Plazuela de San Fernando
Plaza Alhóndiga leading to Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Museum of War of Independence (M$46)
Plaza del Baratillo Florentine fountain
Teatro Juárez
Museo y Casa de Diego Rivera, Pocitos 47 (M$15)
Museo de las Momias Mexico’s obsession with death
Take ‘Momias’ bus from Av Juárez (M$4)
Funicular or hike up ...
Monumento a El Pípila, a Mexican peasant who in 1810 helped Hidalgo
defeat the Spaniards on the struggle for independence
Cristo Rey
Geographical centre of Mexico
Callejoneadas / Estudiantinas 8pm from in front of San Diego Church
(Jardín La Unión)
Several hostels La Casa del Tío (M$150) or Estación Esperanza (M$100
dorm)
Mercado Hidalgo Fresh Produce
Central Comercio Supermarket
Cafés
Truco 7 Set lunches (M$45)
Santo Café
Restaurant La Carreta M$35+
El Midi Morning croissants
Café Tal Coffee
Café Carcamanes Snacks
Campgrounds on road to San Miguel de Allende: Siesta & KAO campgrounds
THE BAJÍO
Dolores Hidalgo, San Miguel de Allende & Querétaro all have important
connections to the Mexican War of Independence in 1810
All benefited from the silver mines
Wonderful churches and other colonial buildings were built as a result
of gold and silver mining in the area over 250 years
Guanajuato to Dolores Hidalgo (52km)
La Valenciana mine (near the church)
Started operation 250 years ago & still working
Breathtaking views but little left of the mine
From Guanajuato a great mountainous road to Dolores Hidalgo with great
pottery
Visit one of the factories & watch the artist work.
Dolores Hidalgo 56km (from Guanajuato)
Plaza Principal
Priest Miguel de Hidalgo issued the ‘Grito’ or ‘Cry’ that started the
Mexican War for
Independence in 1810 from the Parroquia de NSra de Dolores
Presidencia Municipal has 2 murals about independence
Casa de Visitas
Hidalgo also started the ceramics industry in the town as a way to
improve the life of the indigenous peoples
‘Talavera’ pottery is still produced here
Two great museums
Museo de la Independencia Nacional, Zacatecas 6, (M$15)
Museo Casa Hidalgo, cnr Hidalgo & Morelos (M$31; Sun free)
Hospedaje La Posada (M$250 – same price for single & double) or C/S
Miguel Guerrero, Morelos 34
Ice-cream from vendors on plaza
Café La Taberna
Dolores Hidalgo to San Miguel de Allende (42km)
Poor road but easy
Hotel springs on road on outskirts of San Miguel de Allende
Santuario de Atotonilco
11km north of SMdA & 3km off highway
San Miguel de Allende
Active interesting main plaza with various musical bands serenading
the people hanging around
Everything is centred around the timbered garden (El Jardín) facing
the neo-Gothic church, La Parroquía, which is the visual landmark of
the town
Downtown streets are cobblestoned, narrow & one-way
Large retired gringo population that has influenced the culture of the
area
Huge library with wide selection of books in multiple languages, a
very active art community & more old women beggars than any place else
Colegio Sales Many 1810 revolutionaries were locked up here
Templo de la Concepción Wise sayings on interior doorway
Escuela de Bellas Artes Murals + unfinished one which plays with your
mind
Mirador
Parque Benito Juárez
Teatro Santa Ana Cinema
Atención San Miguel Weekly bilingual newspaper (M$10)
Hostal Alcatraz (dorm $M140) or even cheaper la Villa de Pancho,
Quebrada 12 (1 block west of Hotel Sautto) or Hostel Inn (dorm
$110-180 depending on season) or Iron House Hotel ($110)
Pozos (side trip)
Mining ghost town (LP, p575)
Casa Montana (www.casamontanahotel.com)
San Miguel de Allende to Cholulaétaro (63km)
Road out of San Miguel de Allende is tough, on badly-set cobblestones
up a narrow, busy, steep (16%) climb wobbling a lot around to find the
smoothest cobblestone before dropping down to merge with the highway
coming from the north with a wide shoulder which is not too dirty
Nearer to Quéretaro, the traffic increased & the shoulder disappeared,
but there where so many lines that we stuck to the far right and made
it into town
Querétaro (63km from San Miguel de Allende)
Charming pedestrian streets, stunning plazas & an ancient church on
every corner
Main Plaza Jardín Zenea
Museo Regional (M$30)
Templo y Convento de la Santa Cruz (donation) Appearance of St James
converted The Otomí
Arbol de la Cruz in garden
Museo de Arte de Querétaro Building with gargoyles, angels, statues
etc.
Museo de la Restauración de la República (free)
Teatro de la República
Mirador Highest point overlooking the city
Ancient 1.2km aqueduct that still carries clean water
Monumento a la Corrigedora
Templo de Santa Rosa de Viterbos Unusual church
Night time ‘Mitos y Leyendas’ walks
Outdoor café on the plaza across from the Government Palace (Palacio
De Gobierno)
Mexican constitution drawn up here in 1917 & PRI established in 1929
Villa Juvenil (dorm – M$54) or Hostel Jirafa Roja, C/ 20 de Noviembre
or Posada Familiar, Independencia 22 or Ciclonautas
El Pueblito (side trip – 7km from centre of Querétaro)
30m-high pyramid-like structure atop a small hill
64 bus from Av Constituyentes (M$6.50; 25 mins)
Bernal (side trip)
350m-high rock spire – 3rd largest monolith in the world
Flecha Amarilla bus (M$26, 45 mins) from Central Camionera (5km south
of town
Querétaro to Mexico City [171km until last exit on Hwy 57(D) at
Tepozotlán]
First hour was along a fast 4-lane road with no shoulder
Very fast traffic until climb out of town when it slowed down
From then, a shoulder all the way to San Juan del Río
A few hotels on the side of Hwy 57 & lots of places to eat
San Juan del Río (53km from Querétaro)
Hotels in town
Regular buses (M$5) go to Tequisquiapán, 20km away
Tequisquiapán (side trip)
Bougainvillea-lined streets, colourful colonial buildings & excellent
markets
Posada Tequisquiapán (M$250)
Polotitlán (24km from San Juan del Río)
At least one hotel – advertised on the highway
Km107 (21km from Polotitlán)
Hotel (M$170) – Turn off highway, go under bridge & ask in shop on
corner
At Km90, turn off Hwy 57D & follow Hwy 18D towards Puebla
Tula de Allende (39km from Km107)
Ruins of the probable Toltec capital 2km north of the centre (from
about 800-1100AD) [M$41]
Best-known for its fearsome 4.5m-high stone warrior figures
Came after Teotihuacán
Pyramid has amazing ‘Atlantes’ that hold up the temple roof, carved
warrior pillars
Library wall opposite the zócalo Mural of Tula’s history
Head into town towards large white building (Hotel Sharon)
Turn left here & then right at the bridge (not the signs to Pachuca)
Go straight for a few kilometres & then follow the signs to Tepeji del
Río / Mexico
Tepeji del Río (18km from Tula de Allende)
Plenty of places to stop & eat
Just after town you are back on Hwy57D at Km68
A Pemex at Km60, after 8km of climbing, has a decent shop & places to
sit (& a subway)
Tepotzotlán (28km from Tepeji del Río)
1.5km east of last toll booth on Hwy 57D from Querétaro
Museo Nacional del Virreinato, Plaza Hidalgo 99 (M$49)
Capilla Doméstica Altarpiece with more mirrors than a funhouse
Hotel Posada San José [south side of main square), Plaza Virreinal 13
(M$250)
Nativity Plays (pastorelas) Tickets at La Hostería de Tepotzotlán
Interesting trip across country passing through Teoloyucán, (San
Andrés) Jaltengo, (Santa Ana) Nextlalpan, (Ojo de Agua), San Pablo
(Tecalco), San Marcos (Nepantlán) & San Juan (Teotihuacán), which is
2km before the ruins
Signposts are few & far between so I constantly asked people, going
from village/town to village/town
Some of the roads are in a terrible state but there is little climbing
until around San Pablo when you climb up & then drop down towards San
Juan
Pencil in 3 hours each way & about the same time at the ruins
Teotihuacán (109km) [Temple of Quezlcoatl]
Probably the first major city (& certainly the first planned city) in
Meso-America (M$51)
Started about 150AD until about 750AD
UNESCO-listed
Striking things for visitors are Temples of the Sun (3rd largest
pyramid in the world that you can climb to the top) & Moon
All later Meso-American societies regarded Teotihuacan as a holy place
Aztecs went there for special religious occasions & believed that the
gods created the place & then sacrificed themselves there to begin the
world as they knew it
MEXICO CITY (Templo Mayor)
Getting into the City
Cycling into the city is pretty scary
Last toll booth is Tepozotlán
Continue south following signs for Ciudad Satélite & Toreo
Move into the lateral road (running parallel to the main road) at the
first signs indicating the ‘Río San Joaquín’ exit (just north of giant
dome of Toreo arena)
Take this exit
The ramp curves left over the Periférico
Keep right, then follow signs for ‘Circuito Interior’
Take the ‘Thiers’ exit after passing the ‘Corona’ factory
Keep left, following signs for ‘Reforma’ & you’ll end up on Río
Misisipi
Continue straight on over the Diana roundabout for Roma
Accommodation
Hostal 333, Roma/Condesa
General
Tourist modules give out colourful maps of city.
Carry driving license as some places ask you to leave ID at the door.
Museums closed on Mondays (all?) & free days are Sunday & Tuesday.
Tiempo Libre What’s On magazine
Wednesday is discount day at the cinema
Cine Lindo, Av Tamaulipas 202 (M$25) www.cinelindo.com.mx
Cinemex Real, Colón 17 (M$47) www.cinemex.com
Cycling
Bike Shops C/ San Pablo del centro de la Ciudad (a unas cuadras del
Metro Pino Suárez y el zócalo)
Paseo de la Reforma is closed on Sunday mornings to vehicles
http://bicitekas.org Getting out of the city
9pm Wednesdays Rides of up to 40km organised by Bicitekas.
Ciclovía Bike trail along Cuernavaca railroad to Morelos border from
Av Ejército
Nacional (Polanco) [LP, p165]
Av Chapultepec from Bosque de Chapultepec to Centro Histórico
Paseo de la Reforma from Auditorio Nacional to Museo Rufino Tamayo
http://encuentronacionaldecicloturistas.blogspot.com/
Tepoztlán > Antiguas vías del tren de San Juan Tlacotenco a carretera
>
Fierro del Toro por Ciclovía de la CD de México a Ciudad Universitaria
(65 km)
Tepoztlán > Oaxtepec > La Loma > Mirador Milpa Alta > San Pedro
Actopán > Xochimilco > Ciudad Universitaria (85 km)
Getting Around
Peseros Gray/Green private operators M$3 up to 5km / M$3.50 5>12km
Trolleybus Double-decker orange labelled RTP M$2 Express green M
$4
Private Green Buses M$4 to M$5
Metro M$3 per ride
Itineraries
Day 1 Museums Free on 1st Sunday
Walk from Hostal 333 to Chapultepec Metro for museums
Bosque de Chapultepec M: Chapultepec (L1)
1a Castillo de Chapultepec Museo Nac de Hist (M$51)
(09.00-17.00) 1
Museo de Arte Moderno Rivera & Kahlo (M$20)
(10.15-17.20) 2
Monumento a los Niños Héroes US attack on Castillo de Chapultepec
Metro from Chapultepec > Change at Pino Suárez to L2 > Zócalo
Centro Histórico
Excavated site of Templo Mayor (M$51) (09.00-17.00) M: Zócalo
(L2) 3
Imposing pyramid that stood over the city & the lake that is now the
rest of Mexico City
Aztecs (or Mexica) arrived at the current site of the very centre of
Mexico City in 1325 after multi-century pilgrimage in which they were
looking for their place, the centre of the universe
They found it when the prophesied ‘eagle sitting on a cactus eating a
snake’ was sighted
One of the most extensive empires of the pre-Hispanic Americas
When Cortes & the Spanish Conquistadores arrived, they razed all the
religious sites & built their cathedral & headquarters on top of it
There were two centuries of smaller pyramids underneath it, as the
Aztecs had continually enlarged the pyramid
In 1979 some street maintenance workers found a huge Aztec relic so
they excavated the entire site, even though it meant tearing up a
piece of the very centre of Mexico’s downtown
Inside were hundreds of offerings, including human remains & trade
goods from all over the Meso-American world, & even antiques from
ancient Teotihuacan
Sacrifices & many others were found in the Templo Mayor
Parq Alameda or Alameda Central
Palacio de Bellas Artes (M$35) (10.00-18.00) M: Bellas Artes
(L2) 4
Day 2 Rosa, Roma & Condesa (museums all closed on Mondays) [+North of
Centre?]
Bike Shops C/ San Pablo Unas cuadras del Metro Pino Suárez y el
Zócalo
Cassette Shimano Deore, CS-HG53. 9-speed. 11-34t
Chain
Battery (2CR2032)
Roma Bohemian area of quaint area of Porfiriato-era architecture (on
Colima & Tabasco),
art galleries & plazas (Río de Janeiro & Luis Cabrera, dancing
fountains)
*Mezcal tasting salons
Café Villa de Madrid, Plaza Villa de Madrid
Los Bisquets Obregón, Av Obregón 60
Condesa Trendy neighbourhood of pleasant parks (México & España) &
cafés
Lively nightlife
Edificio Basurto Snail-shell staircase
Café Bola de Oro, Av Nuevo León 192B
Pastelería Maque, Ozulama 4
Rosa Lost its appeal since 1950s
Café La Habana, Av Morelos 62 [Fidel & Che plotted here]
Cafetería Gabi’s, Nápoles 55 cnr Liverpool
Paseo Ref Numerous monuments & statues
Day 3 Museums Free on Tuesdays
Bike Shops San Pablo Cycle along Chapultepec
Centro Histórico Metro: Zócalo
Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso ($45) (10.00-17.30) Mainly work by
Orozco 1
Zócalo Presidential Palace
Cathedral (free) Aztec dancers with drums
Altar de los Reyes
Climb bell tower (M$15)
*Palacio Nacional (free) Campana de Dolores
Diego Rivera’s tableau of Mexican history
Ice Skating Xmas holiday period
Centro Cultural de España Roof terrace www.ccemx.org
Plaza Sto Dom Palacio de la Inquisición Anything worth seeing?
Murals Secretaría de Educación Pública (free) 120 by Rivera
Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso ($45; free Tue) Mainly work by
Orozco
Suprema Corte de Justicia (free) Orozco
Mercado Abelardo Rodríguez Under tutelage of Rivera
Day 4 Bosque de Chapultepec & Polanco Metro: Chapultepec & Auditorio
Books Bella Epoca, Av Tamaulipas 202 Metro: Patriotismo
Bosq Chap Massive green area > hire a boat and row around the Lago
Mayor
Buses run continuously from Sección 1a & 2a
1a Torre Mayor Latin America’s tallest building
*Museo Nacional de Antropología Relics from pre-Hispanic past (M$51)
Exhibits of the past (Aztecs/Mexica, Toltecs, Teotihuacan, Maya,
Oaxaca etc.) & the current indigenous peoples
100m from entrance Totonac people perform voltadores rite every 30
minutes
Los Pinos President’s residence
Galería Abierta de las Rejas Photo gallery
Tribunal Monumental de las Aguilas Dedicated to Mexico’s WWII
veterans
2a Fuente de Tlaloc Sculpture by Rivera
Chapultepec Water Works Murals by Rivera (M$10 – Sat only)
Fuente de Xochipilli Dedicated to Aztec prince
Polanco Swanky embassy district, upscale shopping Metro: Polanco
Cine Red Social Cine Diana 11.05, 13.35, 16.05, 19.35, 21.05
Day 5 Xochimilco
Xochimilco Getting There: Metro to Tasqueña > Tren Ligero to La
Noria
Mus Dolores Olmed Patiñ (M$55) (10.00-18.00) Most import Rivera; 2km
W Xoch 2
Getting There: Metro to Tasqueña > Tren Ligero to Xochimilco
Mercado de Xochimilco
Hire a gondola (trajinera) on the ancient canals Very busy at
weekends
Floating gardens of the Aztecs (chinampas)
North of Centre
Tlatelolco Architectural legacy of 3 cultures (08.00-17.30) (free)
Centro Cultural Universitario Tlatelolco (10.00-18.00) (M$20)
Memorial del 68
Basílica de NSra de Guadalupe Metro: La Villa-Basílica
Mexico’s most revered shrine (6km north)
Museo de la Basílica de Guadalupe (10.00-17.30) (M$5)
Capilla del Cerrito Where miracle took place
Templo del Pocito Commemorate miracle
Day 6 Centro Histórico
C/Moneda Cat & mouse antics between ambulantes & anti-piracy police
squads
Plaza Garibal La Lagunilla Section 2 is food Metro: Garibaldi (cnr
Rayón & Allende)
Tequila-tasting with the mariachis at El Tenampa, no12 giant murals
Av Madero Torre Latinamericana (M$50) Views on 44th & 41st floors
(smog – beware)
Parq Alameda or Alameda Central Metros: Bellas Artes & Hidalgo
Virgen del Metro (Hidalgo station)
Museo Mural Diego Rivera (M$15; free Sun) 2nd Sunday
Coyoacán & San Angel
San Angel Getting There: Metrobus to La Bombilla > 2km walk
Museo Casa Estudio Diego & Frida (M$10; free Sun) 2nd Sunday
Coyoacán Metro: Viveros, Coyoacán & General Anaya – 1.5km to 2km
away
Jardín del Centenario Coyote’s frolicking in fountain
Casa de Cortés (free) Cortés established 1st municipal seat > mural
inside
Getting There: Metro to Tasqueña > Tren Ligero to Xotepingo
*Museo Frida Kahlo (M$45) Includes entry to Anahuacalli Rivera
museum
Trotsky Museum (M$35)
Metro: General Anaya
Museo Nacional de las Intervenciones (M$41; free Sun) 2nd Sunday
Main market Coyoacán – Tostadas Coyoacán (from M$20)
Cafés Café El Jarocho, Cuauhtémoc 134 (Coyoacán) M$11 capuccinos
*Lucha Libre Arena Coliseo, Repúb de Perú 77 (M$??) Metro:
Lagunilla (near Plaza Sto Dom)
Mexico City to La Tinaja: Highway 150D (221km)
From Hostal 333, turn left
Turn right onto Medellín
Turn left onto Valladolid
Turn right onto Insurgentes Sur
Turn left onto Viaducto Miguel Alemán
Continue onto Viaducto Río Piedad & follow all the way to Zaragoza
I zigzagged through the quiet backstreets
When I got to Boulevard Zaragoza there were a lot of buses & taxis but
there were few problems
Zaragoza became the ‘cuota’ with a generous shoulder which I had to
share with lots of buses until the Chalco
The traffic thinned out considerably after that
The shoulder ran all the way to Puebla
3-hour 950m climb up to 3200m over 20km; then 28km downhill to KM56
The last few kilometres were on a 3-lane road with no shoulder but the
traffic was generally medium to light
The last few blocks were along cobblestones
Popo (Popocatepetl) and Ixta (Iztaccíhuatl) [views from road]
Two of the three highest mountains in Mexico & the saddle between
them, the Paso de Cortes
Cortes came over this pass from Cholula to attack the Aztecs
Beautiful forests, volcano views
On the downhill the surface is no longer paved but is a gravel road
with some sand on top & rocks sticking out
Cacaxtla & Xochitécatl (32km from Puebla)
Xochitécatl is 2km away from Cacaxtla on foot (M$49 for both)
Puebla (161km from Mexico City)
Famous for ‘aluzejos’ – over 1000 buildings have them
Zócalo with cathedral which appears on M$500 note
Museo de la Revolución Scene of first battle of 1910 revolution (M
$15)
Hostel Casona Poblana, 16 de septiembre 905 (M$140) or Hostal Santo
Domingo, Av 4 Pte 12 (M$140)
Cholula (11km – side trip)
Pretty & quiet town from which Cortés launched his attack on the
Aztecs
2000-year-old Pirámide Tepanapa Widest pyramid ever built (M$41)
Closed > August 2011
Climb to the church on top of the second largest pyramid in the world
to enjoy a glorious sunset behind the shapes of the volcanoes
Visit the inside of the Great Pyramid – entering from the north –
which at first appears to be a natural hill with a large church on top
but a tunnel inside it reveals a gigantic pyramid that has not been
excavated or restored
Huge central square
Large student population
7km to get to Hwy 150D
Shoulder the whole way but covered in debris
Acatzingo de Hidalgo (47km from Puebla)
Several ‘comedores’ here at the turnoff onto Hwy 140 to Xalapa selling
huge tacos
Pemex 15km later with an Italian Coffee Company
Palmarito Tochapán (25km from Acatzingo de Hidalgo)
Esperanza (38km from Palmarito Tochapán)
Turn off ‘cuota’ & town is 2km
Views of Volcán Orizaba
Hotel before centre on right-hand side (M$100) + Other grander hotel
in centre
Shop next door
Big downhills for 50km to Orizaba
Then all the way to beginning of the ‘cuota’ to Veracruz, 98km away
from Veracruz
Plenty of refreshments stops on the road
Ciudad Mendoza (38km from Esperanza)
Orizaba (142km from Puebla / 14km from Ciudad Mendoza)
Founded by the Spanish to protect the Veracruz-Mexico City road
Very industrial
Palacio de Hierro Designed by Eiffel & built in Paris
River Walk Under city’s 13 bridges
Hotel Posada del Viajero, Madero Nte 242 (M$100) or Hotel Arenas, Av
Nte 2 – No161 (M$120)
Fortín de las Flores (11km from Orizaba)
Cute main plaza, Parque Principal, & lush surroundings of nurseries &
private gardens (cut-flower cultivation centre)
Scenic walk to El Corazón & great views
Hotels M$300+ minimum ?
Córdoba (8km from Fortín de las Flores)
Contract sealing Mexico’s independence was signed in 1821 in the ex-
Hotel Zevallos
Hotel Iberia, Av 2 No 919 (M$165)
La Tinaja (47km from Cuitláhuac)
Turn off to Minatitlán on Hwy 180D
Veracruz (62km from La Tinaja)
Cortés arrived on Good Friday 1519
Mexico’s 1st railway went from here to Mexico City
In 1914 US troops occupied Veracruz
Laundry Lavandería Sol y Mar, Av Madero 616 (M$30 wash & dry)
Zócalo Palacio Municipal & Catedral
Malecón Plaza de las Artesanías > Pemex Building (murals) > 8km more
Faro Carranza 1917 Mexican Constitution drafted
Fortress San Juan de Ulúa (M$41) Where Cortés arrived 1.5hr walk
Fort Baluarte de Santiago (M$41) Last of 9 forts Built in 1526
Beaches Between Veracruz & Boca del Río
Hotel Villa Rica, Blvd Camacho 165 (M$165) or Hotel Sevilla, Zaragoza
359 (M$200 or Hotel Amparo, Serdán 482 (M$200) or Motel Moon Lua (M
$250 + by the hour)
Follow coast, without getting onto ‘libre’ (federal) road
Boca del Río (11km from Veracruz)
Brightly coloured seafood restaurants
Join ‘federal’ & continue south to cross Río Jamapa & El Estero
Mandinga (8km from Boca del Río)
Mangrove lagoons & seafood
Follow road along the coast to Antón Lizardo & Coatepec
Turn left onto Hwy 180 towards Minatitlán, passing through Salinas,
Buen País, Alvarado & Conejo
Nice shoulder all the way to Alvarado
Alvarado
Hotel Escorial (M$120) Pretty grim
Continue along Hwy 180 passing through Lerdo de Tejada & Angel R
Cabada
Shoulder disappears to either nothing or little
Traffic varies from light to medium
430m climb just before Santiago Tuxtla & then 5km drop into town
Santiago Tuxtla (118km from Veracruz)
Verdant main square with largest Olmec head yet found
Hotel Olmeca, Carretera Federal s/n (M$180)
Tres Zapotes (side trip or on dirt road towards Santiago Tuxtla)
Important late-Olmec centre
San Andrés Tuxtla
Mexico’s cigar capital
Near Volcán San Martín (1748m)
Hotel Colonial (M$150)
Fabulous 1L orange juice from roadside sellers (M$10)
Salto de Eyipantla (side trip – 12km from San Andrés Tuxtla)
50m-high, 40m-wide waterfall (M$10)
Catemaco (28km from Santiago Tuxtla)
Zócalo & Malecón
On Lake Catemaco with nearby beaches
Boat tours to lake islands e.g. Isla Tenaspi, where Olmec remains
have been found
Temascal steam baths
La Ceiba Restaurant y Trailer Park, Paseo del Malecón s/n (M$50)
Hotel Acuario, cnr Boettinger & Carranza (M$250)
Maxacapán (4km from Catecamo)
Fishing village on the lake with no tourism
Hotel Bella Vista (M$150)
Acayucán (83km from Catemaco)
Hotel Joalicia (M$180)
Hwy 180D to Minatitlán along a pretty poor shoulder with a few ups &
downs but pretty flat
San Lorenzo (side trip from Acayucán)
A great Olmec ceremonial centre from 1200 to 900BC
Minatitlán (50km from Acayucan)
Oil metropolis
Large Soriana supermarket on way in from the ‘cuota’
Along 180D to the turn off & then along a flat, quick 2-lane highway
Coatzacoalcos (22km from Minatitlán)
Oil metropolis
Hotel San Antonio (M$150)
Dibicom Bike Shop
Along the coast via the ‘panga’ to Allende until the road runs out
Cut back inland via Francisco Villa to the ‘cuota’
La Venta (75km from Coatzacalcos)
Ancient Olmec ceremonial site (M$37)
Largest & most important capital of Mexico’s ‘mother’ culture between
800 & 400BC
Rounded 30m-high pyramid constructed out of clay & sand
Hotel V/Q (M$200 in the garage)
Comedor Callita, opposite the hotel for excellent home cooking
5km out of town to the ‘cuota’ & then all the way to Cárdenas
The ‘libre’ also has a good shoulder on it & is in better conditions
than the ‘cuota’
Cárdenas (83km from La Venta)
Right next to the highway
Hotel Xoc-Ol, Plaza Hidalgo (M$120)
Villahermosa (54km from Cárdenas)
On Río Grijalva, which flooded the city in 2007
Parque-Museo La Venta (M$40) Zoo & Open-air Olmec museum
Torre de Caballero aka El Mirador (free) Good views of city &
surrounding area
Hotel Carranza, C/ Carranza (M$180 with fan for 2 nights; $190 for
one)
2.5 hours by bus to Palenque
Palenque (side trip – 145km from Villahermosa)
Almost down at sea level (100m)
Ancient Mayan site – perhaps the most stunning of all
Cyclists are robbed here every year
9km to the ruins
Hotels, cabanas, campsites & hammock shelters almost all the way along
the road between town & the ruins & many are very busy, including Maya
Bell, which has cabanas, a campground, and a restaurant
Cheap (M$80) hot room with only cold water in Palenque town
Yaxkin Hostel (M$134 – dorm)
8am opening time but never too full like at Monte Alban
The jungle surroundings were almost as interesting as the structures
themselves
Everybody was climbing up every set of stairs they could find.
Only the Templo de las Inscripciones was roped off
Climbing everything was usually not terribly rewarding, except for El
Palacio (biggest building) where it’s practically a maze inside
Very flat run along Hwy 180 with a shoulder the whole way
Frontera (85km from Villahermosa)
Fishing port & oil town
In 1519 the conquistadors fought their first battle near here at the
Battle of Centla
Hotel Rosas María (M$250)
Highway 180 follows the coast road, mainly about 10-15km inland, until
you get to within 10km of Ciudad del Carmen
Pretty good road all the way with a shoulder except for the 10km when
it passes through Asta
Military checkpoint just before 4km-long toll bridge into Ciudad del
Carmen
Ciudad del Carmen (97km from Frontera)
Hotel Estrella del Mar (M$300 triple)
45km along the island to the 2nd bridge which took you through the
town of Aguada Azul (48km), which has a hotel
Four lanes for first 12km or so & then you hit the main road with a
shoulder
After about 20km there are some beautiful beaches & the odd restaurant
– most are closed up
After Aguada Azul there is practically nothing – the odd dwelling –
for the 40km to the turn off to Sabancuy
Plenty of free camping opportunities & the odd place advertising
‘palapas’
Sabancuy (90km from Ciudad del Carmen)
2km off Highway 180
Stunning sunset, view of the lake, the lit-up church & sound of
singing birds in the trees in the main square
Hotel Los Laureles (M$200)
Out along 2-lane road with practically no traffic
28km to Chekubul; 11km to Chikbul & then several more small villages
until turning to Hwy 186 after 59km
25km along highway to Escárcega with large shoulder
Escárcega (85km from Sabancuy)
Hotel San Carlos (M$180)
Straight onto Hwy 186 & a police checkpoint – very friendly, straight
through
Swirling wind but mainly into my front as I pedalled all day along the
shoulder of the highway
Highway in very good condition
After several days of cycling along the flat, there are quite a few
climbs but nothing major
Plenty of free camping opportunities
Conhuas (96km from Escárcega & Bakamul ruins)
Cabaña (M$250) As you enter town, there’s a sign on the left
‘Hospedaje y Restaurante’
The accommodation is 150m walk up the road & to the right
Road continues up & down – 1st class road with a generous shoulder
Nothing for 20km & then several small towns
Plenty of free camping opportunities
Xpujil (town & ruins – 60km from Conhuas)
Ruins (M$37) Small but nice; I had them to myself
Decent size supermarket on the right in the middle of town on your
right
Hotel Becan (M$250) Grand Hotel next door does rooms for $160
Road continues up & down until it starts to drop from 300m to 200m but
climbs back up to around 250m before starting to slowly drop towards
the coast
Road not as good as yesterday but still in decent condition with the
same shoulder
Nothing for 22km until settlement of La Moza & then several places
before turn-off to the Kohunlich ruins at Francisco Villa
At Nicolas Bravo, 10km before Francisco Villa, right under the bridge
on the left-hand side there’s a blue building on one of the corners –
rooms are for rent here, but, otherwise, there’s nothing until the
outskirts of Chetumal
Kohunlich (ruins – 70km from Xpujil)
9km off Highway 186 along a side road which is either in great
condition or pot-holed to hell
3km before the ruins is ‘The Explorean’ (M$2700 a room)
1km later is the ‘parador turístico’ – the nightwatchman let me camp
there for free
Ruins opened at 08.00 so I was the first there & had them to myself
for the time I was there
Back 9km along the road back to the turnoff to Hwy 186
Stiff wind in my face today, as there has been for almost all of the
trip, since Acayucán
Shoulder ran all the way until about 5km before the centre
Little traffic on the road
Chetumal (73km from Kohunlich)
A modern town of broad streets (I won’t call them avenues) built after
a hurricane in the 1950s flattened the old one
Museo de la Cultura Maya, cnr Av de los Héroes & Gandhi (M$56.70)
Chetumal Hostel, Sicilia 262 (M$135 dorm)
Mexico / Belize Border (13km)
9km along Hwy 186 to the Belize turn-off & then 3km to the town of
Subteniente Lopez on the Mexican side of the border
There are 4 hotels in town if you arrive late at night; the nearest
Belize town is 13km away, Corozal
Before you cross the border at the huge ‘Aduana’ sign, there is a
small unsigned little shack where you get your Mexican exit stamp
They insist on seeing the remaining portion of your ‘tarjeta
turística’ which you filled on entering the country
Cross the bridge into Belize & the Belize customs office is 1km down
the road
Walk your bike into the office
Get your passport stamped (UK citizens get 30 days)
The customs officer then asked me about guns & drugs
I wheeled my bike through & out the other side of the office & onto a
very quiet 2-laned highway with no shoulder for the 12km into Corozal
It took me less than 10 minutes to get from the Mexican side to out
onto the road to Corozal
If anyone wants to use the notes I make as I go along here they
are ... they are of my route from getting off the ferry in Mazatlan to
crossing the Belize border - roads, where I stayed, tourist
attractions etc. Please, feel free to use them &/or pass them on to
others ...
Safe cycling
John
MAINLAND MEXICO
Mazatlán
Gorgeously renovated historic centre only a short walk from a 20km
crescent of sandy beach
Dates from 19th century
Cathedral Market Plazuela Machado (sip margaritas)
Watch sunset
Pebbly playa Olas Atlas
Playa Norte
Playa Sábalo Swimming
Clavadistas (cliff divers) Best lunchtime Saturday or Sunday
El Faro lighthouse 2nd highest in world; views of old town
Avoid zona dorada = touristy
Clínica Balboa
C/S Jorge Valdez
Hotel Lerma, Simón Bolivar 622 & Aquiles Serdán cheapest hotel in old
town
Hotel del Río & Santa Barbara, Juárez M$200 a double
Hotel Vialta, Azueta 206 3 blocks from market
RV Parks, Camarón Sábalo Including RV Park Villas al Mar
Kelly’s Bicycle Shop www.kellys-bikes.com
Live music Banda sinaloense
Mazatlán To Durango (320km)
All paved
The coast-to-coast highway (15) is four lanes with a good shoulder to
Villa Unión where the road heading east to Durango is the 40D (cuota)
until Concordia – again with a good shoulder – after which it becomes
a shoulderless normal highway (40) until El Salto, when you have the
choice of following the 40 or taking the 40D
Trucks are frequent but they travel at very reduced speeds
Traffic thins out in rural areas
Crosses Sierra Madre & is one of Mexico’s most scenic roads
Mesillas
Furniture makers everywhere
Concordia 40km
Picturesque colonial town in Sierra Madre foothills
Founded in 1565 with a well-kept plaza & splendid 18th-century church
with a baroque facade & elaborately decorated columns
No more banks after here until El Salto
High-quality pottery & hand-carved furniture
Copala 24km (from Concordia)
Cobblestoned-road slightly uphill from the highway into town
Founded in 1565
A mining ghost town > one of Mexico’s 1st mining town
Colonial church (1748), colonial houses & cobblestoned streets
Very strenuous – 2000m+ - climbing to El Palmito
La Capilla del Taxte 18km (from Copala)
1 hospedaje & several places to stock up on food
Restaurants, including ‘Levy’ (carne asada)
El Palmito 33km (from La Capilla del Taxte)
2 very basic hospedajes
Good place to stock up on food
Durango state = 1 hour ahead of Sinaloa > the border is just past El
Palmito
El Espinazo del Diablo
Before La Ciudad the road goes through a spectacular section – many
vertical-sided canyons
The road crosses a narrow 50m-long bridge with verticals drops on both
sides (20km before La Ciudad)
Army checkpoint on the plateau just before the road descends into La
Ciudad
La Ciudad 53km (from El Palmito)
1 very basic hospedaje – no heating or hot water although at 2500m (M
$100)
Also saw cabañas advertised at the entrance to town
22km after La Ciudad is 2800m pass
Mexiquillo
Expensive mountain cabins near here, just off Hwy 40, but great views
El Salto 45km (from La Ciudad)
A logging town
Pemex at Estación Coyotes – cafe across the street, before the toll
road begins
Toll road – 40D – starts here to Durango & can be followed to the
extreme north of the town & then drop through El Ciprés
Very little traffic on 40D
Nothing on the highway at all, only one working set of toll booths
where you turn onto the 40 10km from Durango
All land fenced off on both sides of the road & often drops into
canyons & fields, so not easy to find a free camping spot
Llano Grande
Only one of 2 turnoffs from 40D – how far off the highway is it?
1 very basic hospedaje – no heating or hot water
Durango
Traffic picked up close to Durango, a large urban city
Traffic in Durango is heavy and polluting from the city limits
Look out for 1-way streets
Founded in 1563
W/S Frida Blum
Very old hotel (Hotel Plaza Catedral?) on delightful Plaza de Armas
but clean & affordable with a balcony view or Hotel Buenos Aires (M
$120)
In the pedestrian precinct apparently engaged couples stroll on
Saturday evening in national costume & Mariachis play in front of the
hotels
Revolutionary Pancho Villa born in northern Durango state (see LP,
p330, Central Northern Mexico)
Da Vinci Cafe, Plaza de Armas (LP)
Restaurant La Gloria Free Tibet stickers
Movie Locations Villa del Oeste, 12km north of city (LP) & Chupaderos,
3km further
HIGH PLAINS OF NORTHERN MEXICO
Peaceful enough with arid high plains, scattered stunted dark-coloured
trees
Upland semi-desert
Little traffic & it gave us lots of space, many waves & friendly beeps
Weather is moderate at high elevation (2100-2500 metres): top
temperatures = 32°C
Durango to Zacatecas – Hwy 45/D (300km)
Traffic scarce leaving Durango & almost nothing on the only road to
Zacatecas
Generous shoulder on the road for 90km to around KM190, except in a
couple of areas for less than 1km, then narrow road but the traffic is
light
Shoulder disappears for about 60km from before Sombrerete, then
returns for the rest of the trip south to north of Fresnillo where you
have 2 choices: take the ‘libre’ into Fresnillo or bypass Fresnillo on
the ‘cuota’
If you take the ‘cuota’ the shoulder ends at KM12 before Zacatecas but
remains 2 lanes for all but 2km or so – very slow uphill cycling for
last few kms until you drop down into the old town
Nombre de Díos 45km
Hotel Ofelia (M$150) w/ hot water & a decent wifi connection
Vicente Guerrero 30km (from Nombre de Díos)
92km after Durango & beyond VG dry camping at a cattle control station
(shower, toilet) building
Hotel Sierra ? Inn Turn right at bridge & it’s signposted 200m later;
turn left to get there
PN Sierra de Organos (20km west of Sombrete)
Distinctive rock formations create a land of fantastic towering sand
castles petrified by time
Camping (M$20)
Entrance = 10km from highway
Sombrerete 43km (from Vicente Guerrero)
Really nice small village with narrow cobblestone streets, quiet
central plaza, colonial buildings
Locals claim that Thomas Edison was born here
Hotel Hacienda Grande (M$230)
Pass the Tropic of Cancer before Sain Alto
Sain Alto 42km (from Sombrerete)
Town is 2km off the highway but no need to go in – there are 2
loncherías just past the turning
El Baluarte 43km (from Sombrerete)
Great pollería (M$45) for ¼ chicken & drink
Fresnillo 22km (from El Baluarte)
Uninteresting town
Can bypass using ‘cuota’
Last 10km along a narrow road with no shoulder if you do decide to go
into town
Hotel El Paisano between Fresnillo & Plateros (M$190)
Take the ‘cuota’, avoid Fresnillo & there are lots of hotels in
Plateros or on the road into Fresnillo
Plateros 5km (from Fresnillo)
Santuario de Plateros One of Mexico’s most-visited shrines
Morelos
Trailer Park: Morelos Junction (where Hwys 54 & 49 cross) – didn’t see
it
Zacatecas 60 km (from Fresnillo)
Founded in 1548
Most northern of Mexico’s silver-cities
Colonial architecture / UNESCO-listed central district (whole city is
a Museum)
From high outskirts the way down to the centre is on some steep
cobblestone streets.
Dorm bed in Hostal Villa Colonial (1 block from the main cathedral &
rooftop kitchens with a view of the city), Las Margaritas & Los Gallos
(M$90-120)
Cerro de la Bufa – impressive rock outcrop > superb views of the town
Ride to the opposite hill, El Grillo, with the Teleférico, a cable car
made in Switzerland that travels over the city & takes you to the
entrance of the Mina El Edén
Former mine where silver was extracted for centuries before becoming
too expensive
Thousands of Indians forced to work underground by the Spanish
Pancho Villa defeated a stronghold of soldiers
Callejoneadas (LP, p526)
Guadalupe (side trip) 10km
Need a couple of hours to wander through the monastery
Ex-convent where there is the famous statue of the Virgen de
Guadalupe.
Zacatecas to León (250km)
Take 45D with its good, wide shoulder all the way to the outskirts of
Aguascalientes when it becomes 3- & 4-lanes until getting right into
the narrow, old centre
South of Zacatecas is more desert, but with a bit more variety
Ciudad Cuauhtemoc
Eat at one of the roadside restaurants
Several small h/motels
Luis Moyo
Bigger than CC but didn’t stop
Rincón de Romos
Away from the road
Pabellón de Arteaga
Away from the road
Aguascalientes 116km (from Zacatecas)
Cathedral More beautiful inside than out > painting of Virgen de
Guadalupe
Palacio de Gobierno Mural of 1914 convention
Templo del Encino Black statue of Jesus
Museo Nacional de la Muerte (M$20)
Expoplaza Cinema
Lukas Hostel, Farías 541 (M$100) [closed] Hostal La Katharina, ?? (M
$120)
Peñuelas
Lagos de Moreno 75km (from Aguascalientes)
Hotel La Traje (M$295) w/cable TV
León 128km (from Aguascalientes)
The home of leather (shoes, jackets, saddles etc.) > Zona Piel (bus
station) + other shopping
16th century
Centre of Mexico’s ranching district supplying meat for mining towns &
processing hides
Pretty historical centre
Plaza Principal (aka Plaza de los Mártires)
Plaza de los Fundadores
Festival del Globo November-December
Hector Amaya
Hostal La Bombilla (dorm M$120)
Silao
Guanajuato 56km (from León)
40% of world’s silver once came from Guanajuato state
Founded in 1559 on rich deposits of gold & silver found in La
Valenciana mine in 1558
Slashing of wealth from mines was one of main factors for War of
Independence (LP, p548)
Vicente Fox was governor of Guanajuato state before 2000 election
victory
UNESCO-listed
Main street = Juárez
Maze of crooked callejones windingup from centre
Traffic in city based around 9 tunnels
Many famous old churches, including ‘Templo La Valenciana’ which
contains gold and silver ornate altars, carvings & giant paintings
Built by a miner who promised if he made it rich he would build a
church
He found the mother lode which produced 20% of the world silver plus
gold, nickel & lead
Carretera Panorámica gives great views of the city
Jardín de la Unión Social heart of the city (buskers, mariachis)
Plaza de la Paz Wealthy buildings
Basílica de NSra de Guanajuato Wooden statue of Virgen de Guanajuato
Plazuela de los Angeles leads to Callejón del Beso (narrowest of
alleys) via Patrocinio
Jardín de la Reforma
Plaza San Roque
Plazuela de San Fernando
Plaza Alhóndiga leading to Alhóndiga de Granaditas
Museum of War of Independence (M$46)
Plaza del Baratillo Florentine fountain
Teatro Juárez
Museo y Casa de Diego Rivera, Pocitos 47 (M$15)
Museo de las Momias Mexico’s obsession with death
Take ‘Momias’ bus from Av Juárez (M$4)
Funicular or hike up ...
Monumento a El Pípila, a Mexican peasant who in 1810 helped Hidalgo
defeat the Spaniards on the struggle for independence
Cristo Rey
Geographical centre of Mexico
Callejoneadas / Estudiantinas 8pm from in front of San Diego Church
(Jardín La Unión)
Several hostels La Casa del Tío (M$150) or Estación Esperanza (M$100
dorm)
Mercado Hidalgo Fresh Produce
Central Comercio Supermarket
Cafés
Truco 7 Set lunches (M$45)
Santo Café
Restaurant La Carreta M$35+
El Midi Morning croissants
Café Tal Coffee
Café Carcamanes Snacks
Campgrounds on road to San Miguel de Allende: Siesta & KAO campgrounds
THE BAJÍO
Dolores Hidalgo, San Miguel de Allende & Querétaro all have important
connections to the Mexican War of Independence in 1810
All benefited from the silver mines
Wonderful churches and other colonial buildings were built as a result
of gold and silver mining in the area over 250 years
Guanajuato to Dolores Hidalgo (52km)
La Valenciana mine (near the church)
Started operation 250 years ago & still working
Breathtaking views but little left of the mine
From Guanajuato a great mountainous road to Dolores Hidalgo with great
pottery
Visit one of the factories & watch the artist work.
Dolores Hidalgo 56km (from Guanajuato)
Plaza Principal
Priest Miguel de Hidalgo issued the ‘Grito’ or ‘Cry’ that started the
Mexican War for
Independence in 1810 from the Parroquia de NSra de Dolores
Presidencia Municipal has 2 murals about independence
Casa de Visitas
Hidalgo also started the ceramics industry in the town as a way to
improve the life of the indigenous peoples
‘Talavera’ pottery is still produced here
Two great museums
Museo de la Independencia Nacional, Zacatecas 6, (M$15)
Museo Casa Hidalgo, cnr Hidalgo & Morelos (M$31; Sun free)
Hospedaje La Posada (M$250 – same price for single & double) or C/S
Miguel Guerrero, Morelos 34
Ice-cream from vendors on plaza
Café La Taberna
Dolores Hidalgo to San Miguel de Allende (42km)
Poor road but easy
Hotel springs on road on outskirts of San Miguel de Allende
Santuario de Atotonilco
11km north of SMdA & 3km off highway
San Miguel de Allende
Active interesting main plaza with various musical bands serenading
the people hanging around
Everything is centred around the timbered garden (El Jardín) facing
the neo-Gothic church, La Parroquía, which is the visual landmark of
the town
Downtown streets are cobblestoned, narrow & one-way
Large retired gringo population that has influenced the culture of the
area
Huge library with wide selection of books in multiple languages, a
very active art community & more old women beggars than any place else
Colegio Sales Many 1810 revolutionaries were locked up here
Templo de la Concepción Wise sayings on interior doorway
Escuela de Bellas Artes Murals + unfinished one which plays with your
mind
Mirador
Parque Benito Juárez
Teatro Santa Ana Cinema
Atención San Miguel Weekly bilingual newspaper (M$10)
Hostal Alcatraz (dorm $M140) or even cheaper la Villa de Pancho,
Quebrada 12 (1 block west of Hotel Sautto) or Hostel Inn (dorm
$110-180 depending on season) or Iron House Hotel ($110)
Pozos (side trip)
Mining ghost town (LP, p575)
Casa Montana (www.casamontanahotel.com)
San Miguel de Allende to Cholulaétaro (63km)
Road out of San Miguel de Allende is tough, on badly-set cobblestones
up a narrow, busy, steep (16%) climb wobbling a lot around to find the
smoothest cobblestone before dropping down to merge with the highway
coming from the north with a wide shoulder which is not too dirty
Nearer to Quéretaro, the traffic increased & the shoulder disappeared,
but there where so many lines that we stuck to the far right and made
it into town
Querétaro (63km from San Miguel de Allende)
Charming pedestrian streets, stunning plazas & an ancient church on
every corner
Main Plaza Jardín Zenea
Museo Regional (M$30)
Templo y Convento de la Santa Cruz (donation) Appearance of St James
converted The Otomí
Arbol de la Cruz in garden
Museo de Arte de Querétaro Building with gargoyles, angels, statues
etc.
Museo de la Restauración de la República (free)
Teatro de la República
Mirador Highest point overlooking the city
Ancient 1.2km aqueduct that still carries clean water
Monumento a la Corrigedora
Templo de Santa Rosa de Viterbos Unusual church
Night time ‘Mitos y Leyendas’ walks
Outdoor café on the plaza across from the Government Palace (Palacio
De Gobierno)
Mexican constitution drawn up here in 1917 & PRI established in 1929
Villa Juvenil (dorm – M$54) or Hostel Jirafa Roja, C/ 20 de Noviembre
or Posada Familiar, Independencia 22 or Ciclonautas
El Pueblito (side trip – 7km from centre of Querétaro)
30m-high pyramid-like structure atop a small hill
64 bus from Av Constituyentes (M$6.50; 25 mins)
Bernal (side trip)
350m-high rock spire – 3rd largest monolith in the world
Flecha Amarilla bus (M$26, 45 mins) from Central Camionera (5km south
of town
Querétaro to Mexico City [171km until last exit on Hwy 57(D) at
Tepozotlán]
First hour was along a fast 4-lane road with no shoulder
Very fast traffic until climb out of town when it slowed down
From then, a shoulder all the way to San Juan del Río
A few hotels on the side of Hwy 57 & lots of places to eat
San Juan del Río (53km from Querétaro)
Hotels in town
Regular buses (M$5) go to Tequisquiapán, 20km away
Tequisquiapán (side trip)
Bougainvillea-lined streets, colourful colonial buildings & excellent
markets
Posada Tequisquiapán (M$250)
Polotitlán (24km from San Juan del Río)
At least one hotel – advertised on the highway
Km107 (21km from Polotitlán)
Hotel (M$170) – Turn off highway, go under bridge & ask in shop on
corner
At Km90, turn off Hwy 57D & follow Hwy 18D towards Puebla
Tula de Allende (39km from Km107)
Ruins of the probable Toltec capital 2km north of the centre (from
about 800-1100AD) [M$41]
Best-known for its fearsome 4.5m-high stone warrior figures
Came after Teotihuacán
Pyramid has amazing ‘Atlantes’ that hold up the temple roof, carved
warrior pillars
Library wall opposite the zócalo Mural of Tula’s history
Head into town towards large white building (Hotel Sharon)
Turn left here & then right at the bridge (not the signs to Pachuca)
Go straight for a few kilometres & then follow the signs to Tepeji del
Río / Mexico
Tepeji del Río (18km from Tula de Allende)
Plenty of places to stop & eat
Just after town you are back on Hwy57D at Km68
A Pemex at Km60, after 8km of climbing, has a decent shop & places to
sit (& a subway)
Tepotzotlán (28km from Tepeji del Río)
1.5km east of last toll booth on Hwy 57D from Querétaro
Museo Nacional del Virreinato, Plaza Hidalgo 99 (M$49)
Capilla Doméstica Altarpiece with more mirrors than a funhouse
Hotel Posada San José [south side of main square), Plaza Virreinal 13
(M$250)
Nativity Plays (pastorelas) Tickets at La Hostería de Tepotzotlán
Interesting trip across country passing through Teoloyucán, (San
Andrés) Jaltengo, (Santa Ana) Nextlalpan, (Ojo de Agua), San Pablo
(Tecalco), San Marcos (Nepantlán) & San Juan (Teotihuacán), which is
2km before the ruins
Signposts are few & far between so I constantly asked people, going
from village/town to village/town
Some of the roads are in a terrible state but there is little climbing
until around San Pablo when you climb up & then drop down towards San
Juan
Pencil in 3 hours each way & about the same time at the ruins
Teotihuacán (109km) [Temple of Quezlcoatl]
Probably the first major city (& certainly the first planned city) in
Meso-America (M$51)
Started about 150AD until about 750AD
UNESCO-listed
Striking things for visitors are Temples of the Sun (3rd largest
pyramid in the world that you can climb to the top) & Moon
All later Meso-American societies regarded Teotihuacan as a holy place
Aztecs went there for special religious occasions & believed that the
gods created the place & then sacrificed themselves there to begin the
world as they knew it
MEXICO CITY (Templo Mayor)
Getting into the City
Cycling into the city is pretty scary
Last toll booth is Tepozotlán
Continue south following signs for Ciudad Satélite & Toreo
Move into the lateral road (running parallel to the main road) at the
first signs indicating the ‘Río San Joaquín’ exit (just north of giant
dome of Toreo arena)
Take this exit
The ramp curves left over the Periférico
Keep right, then follow signs for ‘Circuito Interior’
Take the ‘Thiers’ exit after passing the ‘Corona’ factory
Keep left, following signs for ‘Reforma’ & you’ll end up on Río
Misisipi
Continue straight on over the Diana roundabout for Roma
Accommodation
Hostal 333, Roma/Condesa
General
Tourist modules give out colourful maps of city.
Carry driving license as some places ask you to leave ID at the door.
Museums closed on Mondays (all?) & free days are Sunday & Tuesday.
Tiempo Libre What’s On magazine
Wednesday is discount day at the cinema
Cine Lindo, Av Tamaulipas 202 (M$25) www.cinelindo.com.mx
Cinemex Real, Colón 17 (M$47) www.cinemex.com
Cycling
Bike Shops C/ San Pablo del centro de la Ciudad (a unas cuadras del
Metro Pino Suárez y el zócalo)
Paseo de la Reforma is closed on Sunday mornings to vehicles
http://bicitekas.org Getting out of the city
9pm Wednesdays Rides of up to 40km organised by Bicitekas.
Ciclovía Bike trail along Cuernavaca railroad to Morelos border from
Av Ejército
Nacional (Polanco) [LP, p165]
Av Chapultepec from Bosque de Chapultepec to Centro Histórico
Paseo de la Reforma from Auditorio Nacional to Museo Rufino Tamayo
http://encuentronacionaldecicloturistas.blogspot.com/
Tepoztlán > Antiguas vías del tren de San Juan Tlacotenco a carretera
>
Fierro del Toro por Ciclovía de la CD de México a Ciudad Universitaria
(65 km)
Tepoztlán > Oaxtepec > La Loma > Mirador Milpa Alta > San Pedro
Actopán > Xochimilco > Ciudad Universitaria (85 km)
Getting Around
Peseros Gray/Green private operators M$3 up to 5km / M$3.50 5>12km
Trolleybus Double-decker orange labelled RTP M$2 Express green M
$4
Private Green Buses M$4 to M$5
Metro M$3 per ride
Itineraries
Day 1 Museums Free on 1st Sunday
Walk from Hostal 333 to Chapultepec Metro for museums
Bosque de Chapultepec M: Chapultepec (L1)
1a Castillo de Chapultepec Museo Nac de Hist (M$51)
(09.00-17.00) 1
Museo de Arte Moderno Rivera & Kahlo (M$20)
(10.15-17.20) 2
Monumento a los Niños Héroes US attack on Castillo de Chapultepec
Metro from Chapultepec > Change at Pino Suárez to L2 > Zócalo
Centro Histórico
Excavated site of Templo Mayor (M$51) (09.00-17.00) M: Zócalo
(L2) 3
Imposing pyramid that stood over the city & the lake that is now the
rest of Mexico City
Aztecs (or Mexica) arrived at the current site of the very centre of
Mexico City in 1325 after multi-century pilgrimage in which they were
looking for their place, the centre of the universe
They found it when the prophesied ‘eagle sitting on a cactus eating a
snake’ was sighted
One of the most extensive empires of the pre-Hispanic Americas
When Cortes & the Spanish Conquistadores arrived, they razed all the
religious sites & built their cathedral & headquarters on top of it
There were two centuries of smaller pyramids underneath it, as the
Aztecs had continually enlarged the pyramid
In 1979 some street maintenance workers found a huge Aztec relic so
they excavated the entire site, even though it meant tearing up a
piece of the very centre of Mexico’s downtown
Inside were hundreds of offerings, including human remains & trade
goods from all over the Meso-American world, & even antiques from
ancient Teotihuacan
Sacrifices & many others were found in the Templo Mayor
Parq Alameda or Alameda Central
Palacio de Bellas Artes (M$35) (10.00-18.00) M: Bellas Artes
(L2) 4
Day 2 Rosa, Roma & Condesa (museums all closed on Mondays) [+North of
Centre?]
Bike Shops C/ San Pablo Unas cuadras del Metro Pino Suárez y el
Zócalo
Cassette Shimano Deore, CS-HG53. 9-speed. 11-34t
Chain
Battery (2CR2032)
Roma Bohemian area of quaint area of Porfiriato-era architecture (on
Colima & Tabasco),
art galleries & plazas (Río de Janeiro & Luis Cabrera, dancing
fountains)
*Mezcal tasting salons
Café Villa de Madrid, Plaza Villa de Madrid
Los Bisquets Obregón, Av Obregón 60
Condesa Trendy neighbourhood of pleasant parks (México & España) &
cafés
Lively nightlife
Edificio Basurto Snail-shell staircase
Café Bola de Oro, Av Nuevo León 192B
Pastelería Maque, Ozulama 4
Rosa Lost its appeal since 1950s
Café La Habana, Av Morelos 62 [Fidel & Che plotted here]
Cafetería Gabi’s, Nápoles 55 cnr Liverpool
Paseo Ref Numerous monuments & statues
Day 3 Museums Free on Tuesdays
Bike Shops San Pablo Cycle along Chapultepec
Centro Histórico Metro: Zócalo
Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso ($45) (10.00-17.30) Mainly work by
Orozco 1
Zócalo Presidential Palace
Cathedral (free) Aztec dancers with drums
Altar de los Reyes
Climb bell tower (M$15)
*Palacio Nacional (free) Campana de Dolores
Diego Rivera’s tableau of Mexican history
Ice Skating Xmas holiday period
Centro Cultural de España Roof terrace www.ccemx.org
Plaza Sto Dom Palacio de la Inquisición Anything worth seeing?
Murals Secretaría de Educación Pública (free) 120 by Rivera
Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso ($45; free Tue) Mainly work by
Orozco
Suprema Corte de Justicia (free) Orozco
Mercado Abelardo Rodríguez Under tutelage of Rivera
Day 4 Bosque de Chapultepec & Polanco Metro: Chapultepec & Auditorio
Books Bella Epoca, Av Tamaulipas 202 Metro: Patriotismo
Bosq Chap Massive green area > hire a boat and row around the Lago
Mayor
Buses run continuously from Sección 1a & 2a
1a Torre Mayor Latin America’s tallest building
*Museo Nacional de Antropología Relics from pre-Hispanic past (M$51)
Exhibits of the past (Aztecs/Mexica, Toltecs, Teotihuacan, Maya,
Oaxaca etc.) & the current indigenous peoples
100m from entrance Totonac people perform voltadores rite every 30
minutes
Los Pinos President’s residence
Galería Abierta de las Rejas Photo gallery
Tribunal Monumental de las Aguilas Dedicated to Mexico’s WWII
veterans
2a Fuente de Tlaloc Sculpture by Rivera
Chapultepec Water Works Murals by Rivera (M$10 – Sat only)
Fuente de Xochipilli Dedicated to Aztec prince
Polanco Swanky embassy district, upscale shopping Metro: Polanco
Cine Red Social Cine Diana 11.05, 13.35, 16.05, 19.35, 21.05
Day 5 Xochimilco
Xochimilco Getting There: Metro to Tasqueña > Tren Ligero to La
Noria
Mus Dolores Olmed Patiñ (M$55) (10.00-18.00) Most import Rivera; 2km
W Xoch 2
Getting There: Metro to Tasqueña > Tren Ligero to Xochimilco
Mercado de Xochimilco
Hire a gondola (trajinera) on the ancient canals Very busy at
weekends
Floating gardens of the Aztecs (chinampas)
North of Centre
Tlatelolco Architectural legacy of 3 cultures (08.00-17.30) (free)
Centro Cultural Universitario Tlatelolco (10.00-18.00) (M$20)
Memorial del 68
Basílica de NSra de Guadalupe Metro: La Villa-Basílica
Mexico’s most revered shrine (6km north)
Museo de la Basílica de Guadalupe (10.00-17.30) (M$5)
Capilla del Cerrito Where miracle took place
Templo del Pocito Commemorate miracle
Day 6 Centro Histórico
C/Moneda Cat & mouse antics between ambulantes & anti-piracy police
squads
Plaza Garibal La Lagunilla Section 2 is food Metro: Garibaldi (cnr
Rayón & Allende)
Tequila-tasting with the mariachis at El Tenampa, no12 giant murals
Av Madero Torre Latinamericana (M$50) Views on 44th & 41st floors
(smog – beware)
Parq Alameda or Alameda Central Metros: Bellas Artes & Hidalgo
Virgen del Metro (Hidalgo station)
Museo Mural Diego Rivera (M$15; free Sun) 2nd Sunday
Coyoacán & San Angel
San Angel Getting There: Metrobus to La Bombilla > 2km walk
Museo Casa Estudio Diego & Frida (M$10; free Sun) 2nd Sunday
Coyoacán Metro: Viveros, Coyoacán & General Anaya – 1.5km to 2km
away
Jardín del Centenario Coyote’s frolicking in fountain
Casa de Cortés (free) Cortés established 1st municipal seat > mural
inside
Getting There: Metro to Tasqueña > Tren Ligero to Xotepingo
*Museo Frida Kahlo (M$45) Includes entry to Anahuacalli Rivera
museum
Trotsky Museum (M$35)
Metro: General Anaya
Museo Nacional de las Intervenciones (M$41; free Sun) 2nd Sunday
Main market Coyoacán – Tostadas Coyoacán (from M$20)
Cafés Café El Jarocho, Cuauhtémoc 134 (Coyoacán) M$11 capuccinos
*Lucha Libre Arena Coliseo, Repúb de Perú 77 (M$??) Metro:
Lagunilla (near Plaza Sto Dom)
Mexico City to La Tinaja: Highway 150D (221km)
From Hostal 333, turn left
Turn right onto Medellín
Turn left onto Valladolid
Turn right onto Insurgentes Sur
Turn left onto Viaducto Miguel Alemán
Continue onto Viaducto Río Piedad & follow all the way to Zaragoza
I zigzagged through the quiet backstreets
When I got to Boulevard Zaragoza there were a lot of buses & taxis but
there were few problems
Zaragoza became the ‘cuota’ with a generous shoulder which I had to
share with lots of buses until the Chalco
The traffic thinned out considerably after that
The shoulder ran all the way to Puebla
3-hour 950m climb up to 3200m over 20km; then 28km downhill to KM56
The last few kilometres were on a 3-lane road with no shoulder but the
traffic was generally medium to light
The last few blocks were along cobblestones
Popo (Popocatepetl) and Ixta (Iztaccíhuatl) [views from road]
Two of the three highest mountains in Mexico & the saddle between
them, the Paso de Cortes
Cortes came over this pass from Cholula to attack the Aztecs
Beautiful forests, volcano views
On the downhill the surface is no longer paved but is a gravel road
with some sand on top & rocks sticking out
Cacaxtla & Xochitécatl (32km from Puebla)
Xochitécatl is 2km away from Cacaxtla on foot (M$49 for both)
Puebla (161km from Mexico City)
Famous for ‘aluzejos’ – over 1000 buildings have them
Zócalo with cathedral which appears on M$500 note
Museo de la Revolución Scene of first battle of 1910 revolution (M
$15)
Hostel Casona Poblana, 16 de septiembre 905 (M$140) or Hostal Santo
Domingo, Av 4 Pte 12 (M$140)
Cholula (11km – side trip)
Pretty & quiet town from which Cortés launched his attack on the
Aztecs
2000-year-old Pirámide Tepanapa Widest pyramid ever built (M$41)
Closed > August 2011
Climb to the church on top of the second largest pyramid in the world
to enjoy a glorious sunset behind the shapes of the volcanoes
Visit the inside of the Great Pyramid – entering from the north –
which at first appears to be a natural hill with a large church on top
but a tunnel inside it reveals a gigantic pyramid that has not been
excavated or restored
Huge central square
Large student population
7km to get to Hwy 150D
Shoulder the whole way but covered in debris
Acatzingo de Hidalgo (47km from Puebla)
Several ‘comedores’ here at the turnoff onto Hwy 140 to Xalapa selling
huge tacos
Pemex 15km later with an Italian Coffee Company
Palmarito Tochapán (25km from Acatzingo de Hidalgo)
Esperanza (38km from Palmarito Tochapán)
Turn off ‘cuota’ & town is 2km
Views of Volcán Orizaba
Hotel before centre on right-hand side (M$100) + Other grander hotel
in centre
Shop next door
Big downhills for 50km to Orizaba
Then all the way to beginning of the ‘cuota’ to Veracruz, 98km away
from Veracruz
Plenty of refreshments stops on the road
Ciudad Mendoza (38km from Esperanza)
Orizaba (142km from Puebla / 14km from Ciudad Mendoza)
Founded by the Spanish to protect the Veracruz-Mexico City road
Very industrial
Palacio de Hierro Designed by Eiffel & built in Paris
River Walk Under city’s 13 bridges
Hotel Posada del Viajero, Madero Nte 242 (M$100) or Hotel Arenas, Av
Nte 2 – No161 (M$120)
Fortín de las Flores (11km from Orizaba)
Cute main plaza, Parque Principal, & lush surroundings of nurseries &
private gardens (cut-flower cultivation centre)
Scenic walk to El Corazón & great views
Hotels M$300+ minimum ?
Córdoba (8km from Fortín de las Flores)
Contract sealing Mexico’s independence was signed in 1821 in the ex-
Hotel Zevallos
Hotel Iberia, Av 2 No 919 (M$165)
La Tinaja (47km from Cuitláhuac)
Turn off to Minatitlán on Hwy 180D
Veracruz (62km from La Tinaja)
Cortés arrived on Good Friday 1519
Mexico’s 1st railway went from here to Mexico City
In 1914 US troops occupied Veracruz
Laundry Lavandería Sol y Mar, Av Madero 616 (M$30 wash & dry)
Zócalo Palacio Municipal & Catedral
Malecón Plaza de las Artesanías > Pemex Building (murals) > 8km more
Faro Carranza 1917 Mexican Constitution drafted
Fortress San Juan de Ulúa (M$41) Where Cortés arrived 1.5hr walk
Fort Baluarte de Santiago (M$41) Last of 9 forts Built in 1526
Beaches Between Veracruz & Boca del Río
Hotel Villa Rica, Blvd Camacho 165 (M$165) or Hotel Sevilla, Zaragoza
359 (M$200 or Hotel Amparo, Serdán 482 (M$200) or Motel Moon Lua (M
$250 + by the hour)
Follow coast, without getting onto ‘libre’ (federal) road
Boca del Río (11km from Veracruz)
Brightly coloured seafood restaurants
Join ‘federal’ & continue south to cross Río Jamapa & El Estero
Mandinga (8km from Boca del Río)
Mangrove lagoons & seafood
Follow road along the coast to Antón Lizardo & Coatepec
Turn left onto Hwy 180 towards Minatitlán, passing through Salinas,
Buen País, Alvarado & Conejo
Nice shoulder all the way to Alvarado
Alvarado
Hotel Escorial (M$120) Pretty grim
Continue along Hwy 180 passing through Lerdo de Tejada & Angel R
Cabada
Shoulder disappears to either nothing or little
Traffic varies from light to medium
430m climb just before Santiago Tuxtla & then 5km drop into town
Santiago Tuxtla (118km from Veracruz)
Verdant main square with largest Olmec head yet found
Hotel Olmeca, Carretera Federal s/n (M$180)
Tres Zapotes (side trip or on dirt road towards Santiago Tuxtla)
Important late-Olmec centre
San Andrés Tuxtla
Mexico’s cigar capital
Near Volcán San Martín (1748m)
Hotel Colonial (M$150)
Fabulous 1L orange juice from roadside sellers (M$10)
Salto de Eyipantla (side trip – 12km from San Andrés Tuxtla)
50m-high, 40m-wide waterfall (M$10)
Catemaco (28km from Santiago Tuxtla)
Zócalo & Malecón
On Lake Catemaco with nearby beaches
Boat tours to lake islands e.g. Isla Tenaspi, where Olmec remains
have been found
Temascal steam baths
La Ceiba Restaurant y Trailer Park, Paseo del Malecón s/n (M$50)
Hotel Acuario, cnr Boettinger & Carranza (M$250)
Maxacapán (4km from Catecamo)
Fishing village on the lake with no tourism
Hotel Bella Vista (M$150)
Acayucán (83km from Catemaco)
Hotel Joalicia (M$180)
Hwy 180D to Minatitlán along a pretty poor shoulder with a few ups &
downs but pretty flat
San Lorenzo (side trip from Acayucán)
A great Olmec ceremonial centre from 1200 to 900BC
Minatitlán (50km from Acayucan)
Oil metropolis
Large Soriana supermarket on way in from the ‘cuota’
Along 180D to the turn off & then along a flat, quick 2-lane highway
Coatzacoalcos (22km from Minatitlán)
Oil metropolis
Hotel San Antonio (M$150)
Dibicom Bike Shop
Along the coast via the ‘panga’ to Allende until the road runs out
Cut back inland via Francisco Villa to the ‘cuota’
La Venta (75km from Coatzacalcos)
Ancient Olmec ceremonial site (M$37)
Largest & most important capital of Mexico’s ‘mother’ culture between
800 & 400BC
Rounded 30m-high pyramid constructed out of clay & sand
Hotel V/Q (M$200 in the garage)
Comedor Callita, opposite the hotel for excellent home cooking
5km out of town to the ‘cuota’ & then all the way to Cárdenas
The ‘libre’ also has a good shoulder on it & is in better conditions
than the ‘cuota’
Cárdenas (83km from La Venta)
Right next to the highway
Hotel Xoc-Ol, Plaza Hidalgo (M$120)
Villahermosa (54km from Cárdenas)
On Río Grijalva, which flooded the city in 2007
Parque-Museo La Venta (M$40) Zoo & Open-air Olmec museum
Torre de Caballero aka El Mirador (free) Good views of city &
surrounding area
Hotel Carranza, C/ Carranza (M$180 with fan for 2 nights; $190 for
one)
2.5 hours by bus to Palenque
Palenque (side trip – 145km from Villahermosa)
Almost down at sea level (100m)
Ancient Mayan site – perhaps the most stunning of all
Cyclists are robbed here every year
9km to the ruins
Hotels, cabanas, campsites & hammock shelters almost all the way along
the road between town & the ruins & many are very busy, including Maya
Bell, which has cabanas, a campground, and a restaurant
Cheap (M$80) hot room with only cold water in Palenque town
Yaxkin Hostel (M$134 – dorm)
8am opening time but never too full like at Monte Alban
The jungle surroundings were almost as interesting as the structures
themselves
Everybody was climbing up every set of stairs they could find.
Only the Templo de las Inscripciones was roped off
Climbing everything was usually not terribly rewarding, except for El
Palacio (biggest building) where it’s practically a maze inside
Very flat run along Hwy 180 with a shoulder the whole way
Frontera (85km from Villahermosa)
Fishing port & oil town
In 1519 the conquistadors fought their first battle near here at the
Battle of Centla
Hotel Rosas María (M$250)
Highway 180 follows the coast road, mainly about 10-15km inland, until
you get to within 10km of Ciudad del Carmen
Pretty good road all the way with a shoulder except for the 10km when
it passes through Asta
Military checkpoint just before 4km-long toll bridge into Ciudad del
Carmen
Ciudad del Carmen (97km from Frontera)
Hotel Estrella del Mar (M$300 triple)
45km along the island to the 2nd bridge which took you through the
town of Aguada Azul (48km), which has a hotel
Four lanes for first 12km or so & then you hit the main road with a
shoulder
After about 20km there are some beautiful beaches & the odd restaurant
– most are closed up
After Aguada Azul there is practically nothing – the odd dwelling –
for the 40km to the turn off to Sabancuy
Plenty of free camping opportunities & the odd place advertising
‘palapas’
Sabancuy (90km from Ciudad del Carmen)
2km off Highway 180
Stunning sunset, view of the lake, the lit-up church & sound of
singing birds in the trees in the main square
Hotel Los Laureles (M$200)
Out along 2-lane road with practically no traffic
28km to Chekubul; 11km to Chikbul & then several more small villages
until turning to Hwy 186 after 59km
25km along highway to Escárcega with large shoulder
Escárcega (85km from Sabancuy)
Hotel San Carlos (M$180)
Straight onto Hwy 186 & a police checkpoint – very friendly, straight
through
Swirling wind but mainly into my front as I pedalled all day along the
shoulder of the highway
Highway in very good condition
After several days of cycling along the flat, there are quite a few
climbs but nothing major
Plenty of free camping opportunities
Conhuas (96km from Escárcega & Bakamul ruins)
Cabaña (M$250) As you enter town, there’s a sign on the left
‘Hospedaje y Restaurante’
The accommodation is 150m walk up the road & to the right
Road continues up & down – 1st class road with a generous shoulder
Nothing for 20km & then several small towns
Plenty of free camping opportunities
Xpujil (town & ruins – 60km from Conhuas)
Ruins (M$37) Small but nice; I had them to myself
Decent size supermarket on the right in the middle of town on your
right
Hotel Becan (M$250) Grand Hotel next door does rooms for $160
Road continues up & down until it starts to drop from 300m to 200m but
climbs back up to around 250m before starting to slowly drop towards
the coast
Road not as good as yesterday but still in decent condition with the
same shoulder
Nothing for 22km until settlement of La Moza & then several places
before turn-off to the Kohunlich ruins at Francisco Villa
At Nicolas Bravo, 10km before Francisco Villa, right under the bridge
on the left-hand side there’s a blue building on one of the corners –
rooms are for rent here, but, otherwise, there’s nothing until the
outskirts of Chetumal
Kohunlich (ruins – 70km from Xpujil)
9km off Highway 186 along a side road which is either in great
condition or pot-holed to hell
3km before the ruins is ‘The Explorean’ (M$2700 a room)
1km later is the ‘parador turístico’ – the nightwatchman let me camp
there for free
Ruins opened at 08.00 so I was the first there & had them to myself
for the time I was there
Back 9km along the road back to the turnoff to Hwy 186
Stiff wind in my face today, as there has been for almost all of the
trip, since Acayucán
Shoulder ran all the way until about 5km before the centre
Little traffic on the road
Chetumal (73km from Kohunlich)
A modern town of broad streets (I won’t call them avenues) built after
a hurricane in the 1950s flattened the old one
Museo de la Cultura Maya, cnr Av de los Héroes & Gandhi (M$56.70)
Chetumal Hostel, Sicilia 262 (M$135 dorm)
Mexico / Belize Border (13km)
9km along Hwy 186 to the Belize turn-off & then 3km to the town of
Subteniente Lopez on the Mexican side of the border
There are 4 hotels in town if you arrive late at night; the nearest
Belize town is 13km away, Corozal
Before you cross the border at the huge ‘Aduana’ sign, there is a
small unsigned little shack where you get your Mexican exit stamp
They insist on seeing the remaining portion of your ‘tarjeta
turística’ which you filled on entering the country
Cross the bridge into Belize & the Belize customs office is 1km down
the road
Walk your bike into the office
Get your passport stamped (UK citizens get 30 days)
The customs officer then asked me about guns & drugs
I wheeled my bike through & out the other side of the office & onto a
very quiet 2-laned highway with no shoulder for the 12km into Corozal
It took me less than 10 minutes to get from the Mexican side to out
onto the road to Corozal
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