North coastal route in Peru.
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Matthew Hopkins
Aug 14, 2015, 10:55:05 PM8/14/15
to PanAm Riders
Hello all,
Reading this and other forums, the general consensus is that the northern coast of Peru from the Ecuador border is potentially dangerous for cyclists.
Numerous reports of attacks and robberies have been reported on the road between the border as far south as Chimbote.(Over 800 km's!)
Have any other cyclists been or heard anything bad over the past, say 4-6 months? If so, what and can you supply links?
I am rapidly approaching that region and would obviously like to cycle but will take detour advice if others feel it is unsafe to ride.
Would riding in a group be a safer bet do you think?
There is the possibility of riding with several other cyclists I have met along the road, and we had loosely discussed the idea, but would that make us more of a target or safety in numbers?
All advice and opinions accepted (as long as they are relevant!)
Thanks,
Matthew.
Reading this and other forums, the general consensus is that the northern coast of Peru from the Ecuador border is potentially dangerous for cyclists.
Numerous reports of attacks and robberies have been reported on the road between the border as far south as Chimbote.(Over 800 km's!)
Have any other cyclists been or heard anything bad over the past, say 4-6 months? If so, what and can you supply links?
I am rapidly approaching that region and would obviously like to cycle but will take detour advice if others feel it is unsafe to ride.
Would riding in a group be a safer bet do you think?
There is the possibility of riding with several other cyclists I have met along the road, and we had loosely discussed the idea, but would that make us more of a target or safety in numbers?
All advice and opinions accepted (as long as they are relevant!)
Thanks,
Matthew.
Paul Gareau
Aug 14, 2015, 11:42:41 PM8/14/15
to PanAm Riders
Hi Matt,
I've heard of groups of 2-3 people being targeted. I don't know if larger groups would be any better.
Nobody has reported an incident for a while now, so just a reminder to everyone to let the group know if you have any problems with safety.
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Axel Nitschke
Aug 15, 2015, 2:45:13 AM8/15/15
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Hello Matt,
i do not know if this is relevant to You because the information i have is from last year when i cycled the up northern Peruvian coast ( and took several buses to avoid the most notorious areas ).
I have personally met ( or communicated by e mail ) with 4 different cyclists ( on top of 2 backpackers who had been abducted ) who were robbed between Lima and the Ecuadorian border in 2014.
I do not know if the chances of being targeted by riding in a larger group decrease, but for me the main reasons not to cycle along the northern Peruvian coast ( you actually only see the ocean rarely ) are not connected with crime but are as follows:
a ) it is boring scenery, b ) and hot, c ) you will mostly be riding against the wind, d ) the Peruvians along the coast are in general not very friendly people, e ) truck traffic is heavy on the Panamericana and most importantly f ) the alternative parallel inland route on highway 3 N is one of the most quiet and beautiful roads i have ridden anywhere in South America.
Most of the cyclists who stayed at the " Casa de Ciclistas " in Trujillo made it through fine so most likely you will do so as well.
However you have to decide if riding through the desert with the constant fear in the back of your mind that the next local on a moto or in a Tuc Tuc might be a delinquent asshole with a gun is your cup of tea ( the modus operandi in places like Piura, Mancora and Paijan seems to be that the perps follow their victims out of town and then jump them later somewhere in the wastelands ).
Enjoy the ride
Axel
" El viejo loco "
My blog : http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/elviejoloco
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2015 19:55:05 -0700
From: matt...@gmail.com
To: panam-...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [panam-riders] North coastal route in Peru.
i do not know if this is relevant to You because the information i have is from last year when i cycled the up northern Peruvian coast ( and took several buses to avoid the most notorious areas ).
I have personally met ( or communicated by e mail ) with 4 different cyclists ( on top of 2 backpackers who had been abducted ) who were robbed between Lima and the Ecuadorian border in 2014.
I do not know if the chances of being targeted by riding in a larger group decrease, but for me the main reasons not to cycle along the northern Peruvian coast ( you actually only see the ocean rarely ) are not connected with crime but are as follows:
a ) it is boring scenery, b ) and hot, c ) you will mostly be riding against the wind, d ) the Peruvians along the coast are in general not very friendly people, e ) truck traffic is heavy on the Panamericana and most importantly f ) the alternative parallel inland route on highway 3 N is one of the most quiet and beautiful roads i have ridden anywhere in South America.
Most of the cyclists who stayed at the " Casa de Ciclistas " in Trujillo made it through fine so most likely you will do so as well.
However you have to decide if riding through the desert with the constant fear in the back of your mind that the next local on a moto or in a Tuc Tuc might be a delinquent asshole with a gun is your cup of tea ( the modus operandi in places like Piura, Mancora and Paijan seems to be that the perps follow their victims out of town and then jump them later somewhere in the wastelands ).
Enjoy the ride
Axel
" El viejo loco "
My blog : http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/elviejoloco
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2015 19:55:05 -0700
From: matt...@gmail.com
To: panam-...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [panam-riders] North coastal route in Peru.
Matthew Hopkins
Aug 15, 2015, 7:51:14 AM8/15/15
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Thanks for the advice. I will take it into consideration.
Does anyone else have other suggestions?
Matthew
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Twitter: @matthewkh73
Skype: matthewkh
Matthew K. Hopkins - main
Whatsapp: +447428465382
Current Mobile:
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Frank Weidemann
Aug 15, 2015, 11:53:45 AM8/15/15
to panam-...@googlegroups.com
Hey,
Axel is completly right about the scenery etc. Regarding "safety in larger groups": Those guys have guns... Again: GUNS! And, for what I know, you will face at least two of them at the time. Just skip it... What's the point risking your life or gear... There are thousands of miles left for cycling...
In any case: Good luck!
Frank
Ali Burke
Aug 15, 2015, 10:34:53 PM8/15/15
to PanAm Riders
Hey Matthew,
Not super current info... We rode through two years ago....
You probably already know this, but from the border town of macara you can take the old panamericana for at least a couple hundred km. it goes through chulucana, then angles down to chiclayo. There seems to be more villages ( food/ wAter access) on this stretch as compared to the main road- and certainly next to no traffic, and very friendly folks in our experience.
We did ride chiclayo - Trujillo on the main panamericana without any problems, but yes the conditions were pretty bad (wind, traffic)... And the worry about being robbed.
From Trujillo we angled back up to ride the cordillera Blanca route - this is an amazing ride, as anyone will tell you.
We then angled back to the coast a couple hundred km after huarez - and rode along the coast to Lima - again not a stunning ride, but part if the journey. We were robbed in huacho ( just north of Lima) - but it was when we took a walk to a really isolated area, and they just got the camera.
I'm glad we cycled part of coastal Peru, it is very different from the mountains and broadened our understanding of the country. People can seem a little sterner on the coast - but it can't be easy to live in coastal Peru... And beneath the surface there is so much kindness.
All the best on your journey!
Ali
Fiona Sheil
Dec 31, 2015, 3:07:59 AM12/31/15
to PanAm Riders
Hey, maybe too late on this...
I crossed the border into Peru in April this year. I stayed in the mountains and the couple I was with went to the coast. They were robbed at knife point.
I didn't go to the coast because it would be - I expect - boring. Peru is insanely beautiful. Stay in the mountains. The Atlantic coast of South America is rarely special - but those mountains are truely incredible.
Before I decided, I went through this forum and spoke to other cyclists. Although many people get through there fine, lots of people get robbed. Far far too many cyclists. That's because these guys have a systematic approach to robbery. They watch you come in a town, follow you out, then when you're a suitably isolated distance out, they rob you. If there's less robberies now, that's probably not down to better policing: it's down to cyclists taking the bus.
I crossed the border south of Loja, and then down to the Casa in Jaen (where you have to email Miguel ahead of time because he has to make space. But he's utterly lovely).
Whatever you do, have a wonderful time.
Best wishes,
Fiona
PS I didn't find the rainy season that bad... just got up very early and very rarely got soaked. May have been luck though.
Etienne
Jan 2, 2016, 10:36:35 AM1/2/16
to PanAm Riders
To add my point about the mountain road which I encourage to take, it's being paved a lot in the last year so it might not be as hard as older posts might show.
Etienne
Etienne
Matthew Hopkins
Feb 1, 2016, 5:20:47 PM2/1/16
to PanAm Riders
Hello.
A long overdue update on this post.
The Mountain route was excellent.
I teamed up with 4 other cyclists partly for mutual security and partly for the companionship.
We certainly didn't need to be concerned about security.
The people were generous, friendly, curious and hospitable at every occasion.
Whatever horror stories have been heard of the northern Peru routes, we encountered no issues along the way.
But obviously, you still need to use common sense precautions.
It is a tough route obviously. Lots of big climbs but very beautiful.
There are isolated sections and some of the smaller villages have few resources, so carry an extra day or two of food?
The steaming Jungle turns to hot desert then to cool mountain pastures if you travel along the Utcabamba valley and the scenery is just stunning.
I am sure you will enjoy the route as much as I and my companions did.
Peru is an amazing country.
A couple of points of note:
The entry from Ecuador to Las Balsas is a jungle dirt road. This basically starts after you leave Loja.
There are quite a few steep muddy climbs and descents. Tarmac where present is badly worn and potholed.
Exit from Ecuador is easy. Stamp and cross the bridge.
The Peru border control closes for about 2 hours for lunch so you just have to sit and wait.
Fortunately, there are 2 restaurants opposite the office.
The procedure (for UK passport holders) is quick and painless.
BUT make sure you get the MAXIMUM time you can. 3 months in my case. As the officer seemingly gives out random amounts of time unless you ask!
I didn't and only got 2 months.
The road on the Peru side is good Asphalt. Most of the main roads were excellent from memory.
From the border there is a Peruvian village (Nambale?) about 10 km's from the border.
We camped in the park opposite the Police station, with their permission and also got a shower there.
There are photos and a bit more on my Blog page if you are interested.
http://theroadoflittlemiracles.ghost.io/
Chapters 66 and 67.
Enjoy.
A long overdue update on this post.
The Mountain route was excellent.
I teamed up with 4 other cyclists partly for mutual security and partly for the companionship.
We certainly didn't need to be concerned about security.
The people were generous, friendly, curious and hospitable at every occasion.
Whatever horror stories have been heard of the northern Peru routes, we encountered no issues along the way.
But obviously, you still need to use common sense precautions.
It is a tough route obviously. Lots of big climbs but very beautiful.
There are isolated sections and some of the smaller villages have few resources, so carry an extra day or two of food?
The steaming Jungle turns to hot desert then to cool mountain pastures if you travel along the Utcabamba valley and the scenery is just stunning.
I am sure you will enjoy the route as much as I and my companions did.
Peru is an amazing country.
A couple of points of note:
The entry from Ecuador to Las Balsas is a jungle dirt road. This basically starts after you leave Loja.
There are quite a few steep muddy climbs and descents. Tarmac where present is badly worn and potholed.
Exit from Ecuador is easy. Stamp and cross the bridge.
The Peru border control closes for about 2 hours for lunch so you just have to sit and wait.
Fortunately, there are 2 restaurants opposite the office.
The procedure (for UK passport holders) is quick and painless.
BUT make sure you get the MAXIMUM time you can. 3 months in my case. As the officer seemingly gives out random amounts of time unless you ask!
I didn't and only got 2 months.
The road on the Peru side is good Asphalt. Most of the main roads were excellent from memory.
From the border there is a Peruvian village (Nambale?) about 10 km's from the border.
We camped in the park opposite the Police station, with their permission and also got a shower there.
There are photos and a bit more on my Blog page if you are interested.
http://theroadoflittlemiracles.ghost.io/
Chapters 66 and 67.
Enjoy.
Etienne
Feb 2, 2016, 10:40:32 PM2/2/16
to PanAm Riders
Hi!
Great update, thanks for that! Never felt unsafe on this road neither, dangerous tales are more from the Coastal road.
A word of experience for La Balsa crossing:
I enter Ecuador 2 years after passing by bicycle there and I go detained at Quito airport, saying that I never left the country since two years. They were ready to deport me unless I show a proof that I left the country, and obviously I changed passport in between. The migración officer in La Balsa stamped my passport but didn't entered it in the system! After staying an hour and a half with a dodgy Internet connection in a white room with two guards, I was able to reach people at home to dig in a box, get my old passport and make them scan my exit stamp and sent it to me. Good thing I kept my old passport! Can be recommended to keep a file with a scan of all your stamped pages after your trip! This can probably happen in any country when you pass by small border control.
Etienne
Great update, thanks for that! Never felt unsafe on this road neither, dangerous tales are more from the Coastal road.
A word of experience for La Balsa crossing:
I enter Ecuador 2 years after passing by bicycle there and I go detained at Quito airport, saying that I never left the country since two years. They were ready to deport me unless I show a proof that I left the country, and obviously I changed passport in between. The migración officer in La Balsa stamped my passport but didn't entered it in the system! After staying an hour and a half with a dodgy Internet connection in a white room with two guards, I was able to reach people at home to dig in a box, get my old passport and make them scan my exit stamp and sent it to me. Good thing I kept my old passport! Can be recommended to keep a file with a scan of all your stamped pages after your trip! This can probably happen in any country when you pass by small border control.
Etienne
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