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WWW Repairing wet pedals Condition grading explained Custom one-off pedals noise, and noise gates Radio Noise Dating pedals Expression Pedals Whammy pedal Surf/Siren pedal TS-9 switches Using multiple TS-9s Tubescreamer stuff Modifying a vintage Tubescreamer Ibanez SD-9 vs TS-9 Ibanez TS-10 vs TS-9 Electric Voltages in other countries E-H Talking pedal E-H slide switches E-H deluxe (ac power) effects transformers Reverse sound effects Buffers vs True Bypass True bypass switches Bypassing a Small Clone LED addition EH Memory Man info Power supplies, Boss PSA vs ACA Flangers Univibe vs Chorus Analog Delay Chips New Analog Delays Fuzz Faces Boss pedals Japan vs Taiwan Boss pedals Foxx pedals Jimi's pedals Old MXR pedals MXR reissue pedals FAKE MXR pedals Boss Tone pedals Volume loss with pedals Other related FAQ pages Repairing wet pedals My pedal got wet at a gig and it's not working, HELP!!! I started out using some info from Bob Schwartz, retired EE. I give him credit for his article whichI have edited and modified from computer equipment specific to guitar effect specific.What to do if something wet spills on your pedal or it falls into wet whatever?The following is not guaranteed but represents years of experience.Quick, unplug it! Unless there is a likely shock hazard. There are generally two items to have handy. One is distilled water to first wash off and dilute any non-pure water spill, especially any liquid that might be conductive. The second is alcohol,90+% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. You can often find stronger rubbing alcohol in some stores,that's what we use at Analog Man for much pedal cleaning, inside and out.Ethyl alcohol or ethanol 90% - will work too. Alcohol has an affinity for water, so it soaksit up and dries it out, then evaporates much better than water.Rinsing the item first with the distilled water (if it was not soaked in pure water, for exampleto flush out cola) and then with alcohol will dilute, pick up water, carry it away, and evaporatequickly. The higher percent alcohol 90% vs 50% has a greater affinity for water.Time is important. You do not want water to soak into an otherwise insulating medium, especially water that contains something conductive like salt. It will leave a conductive residue that will short out portions of the device. That is why you want to rinse first with distilledwater to carry away any conductive residue and then the alcohol to remove the water film. Most tap water has dissolved minerals that remain after the water evaporates, hence the distilled water to rinse these away.Don't get water in switches if possible, and only rinse areas that may have been wet, or are still wet. A tech from the Rane Corp told me that using club soda is an effective purge agent. Rane had a huge DJ customer base. The drink spill topic came up all the time, often accompanied by estimatesof hundreds of dollars. Since clubs are common venues, the bar is good source of club soda. In cases of spills they told DJs to immediately drop the equipment in bar sink and flood unit with club soda. Besides the distilled water (and trace of sodium) club soda bubbles agitate and dislodge the contaminates helping to float them away. A sugary, sticky mocha coffee drink spilled into a DJ mixer and did exactly as was preached. Once the unit was brought back to Rane service, they just used a heat gun to assure it was fully dried out. No damage occurred and other than some pot and switch lubrication, the servicing was minimal.Internal pedal cases and battery compartments can then be cleaned with WD-40. WD-40 is a water displacing chemical.You can spray it anywhere in or on a pedal, but it can betough to get out so I often use rags or Q-tips wetted with WD-40 to clean the inside (and outsides) of pedals. You just don't want to leave a lot of inside, as it smells and can drip around.Potentiometers are one of the easiest damaged parts. They should be spray cleaned on the wiper areawith some electronic spray cleaner/lubricant. Analog Man uses Deoxit spray cleaner, I like the"Fader" type for pots as it leaves some lubricant. Spray inside, then quickly turn the pot back and forth (slideyour finger on the top of the knob) several times, then tilt it to let any excess cleaner run out, you can catch itwith a Q-tip.Jacks should also be cleaned with a Q-tip. The Deoxit is best but WD-40 will work. Also try to clean the tip of the jack, but be careful not to pull off the cotton inside the jack. Switches are usually pretty well sealed, but water can get inside and it may be verytough to get it out. It's very hard to get a cleaner inside the switch to wash it out. There is a video that shows how you can open a switch to repair it, if your switch has issues you can try that.But it may be best to replace the switch if it does not work well after the pedal had time to dry. Power Jacksshould be cleaned by spraying in a bit of the DeOxit or WD-40.
Here is the youtubevideo of repairing a 3PDT switch Components like chips, transistors, capacitors, and resistors are generally notdamaged by short periods of wetness. But the leads can corrode, so wipe any corroded or flaky/powdery leads withWD-40 on a Q-tip. Foam or other soft materials used in pedals for holding in batteries, etc, should be replacedif possible as they will hold moisture.
After, and I repeat AFTER, the above cleaning, you can use very modest heat to help dry out the pedal. You can use a hair dryer at some distance. Make sure you dont heat the item any hotter than is comfortableto hold. Some plastic materials deform at relatively low temperatures. Compressed air will work well toobut it should be dry, come compressors spit out water drops which will not help. And the full force of100PSI can damage your circuit so don't hit it too hard with compressed air.Remember the order:
- rinse with distilled water
- rinse with alcohol
- clean and lubricate
- warm gently with hair dryer or warming oven.
Yes, my standards are much higher than that. All my items arecleaned, inspected, and tested by me personally, and will notbe sold until that is done. I clean the effect with solventsto remove beer, sticker goop, and adhesive from old velcro etc.I clean the jacks, pots, and replace the battery clip if it's not in good shape. This condition grading is purely based on cosmetics.All effects, regardless of cosmetic condition, are in perfectworking order, all original, and sound great unless otherwise noted.Here is my rating system :
- NOS = New Old Stock : Never played, straight off the dealersshelf usually in the original box with manuals. Dead mint.
- 10 : Mint : Like new, shiny, no scratches, wear, rust, etc.All items in all conditions are in perfect working orderunless stated otherwise.
- 9 : Near Mint, NM : Like new, but a scratch or two, maybescuff marks on the bottom. No modifications or damage.
- 8 : Excellent, Exc : A few paint chips, maybe a tiny dent. Norust or serious damage. Most of the lettering on the pedalis readable (but some MXR effects writing comes off if youlook at it funny!). Any modifications (knobs, etc) will be listed.Most effects that I sell are in exc condition- they were usedbut not abused.
- 7 : Very Good, VG : This pedal was used a lot because itsounds good! Some paint is missing, maybe a dent,maybe a replaced switch or jack. Could have some surfacerust. You should still be able to read the writing on the pedal,but probably not all.
- 6 : Good, Gd, GC : Works, mostly original, but beat up orrepainted. Good for playing on stage, as it should beabout 1/2 the price of a mint one and sound the same!I rarely sell items in Good condition or less.You will often see items marked EXC++ or NM-.The + and - are used when an item falls between twogrades, i.e. exc++ is 8.5 condition. Custom One-Off pedals I really want a (name an expensive hard to find pedal)can you build me one? Building a single pedal is VERY expensive, like whena car manufacturer builds a prototype or show car. A showcar usually costs over a million dollars to build, even though the production model might cost $20,000. To build ONE pedal, we have to find the parts (sometimestakes days of hard work to find one obsolete part) thenorder the parts. Then laying out and building one pedal takes a very longtime, as does testing it to make sure it works. But it usuallywill not work, then debugging can take days.
That would be fine. But you may want to calibrate your earsto allowable noise limits in vintage time-based effects (Analogdelays, choruses, flangers, etc that use a Bucket Brigade chip).Turn your amp up so it's not too loud but you can hear it well.Adjust the effect for mid-range operation, at the same volumewhen on as off (if adjustable). Stand 5 feet from your amp andturn the pedal on and off without playing. If there is noticeable"white noise" or crackling, the effect is noisier than I wouldsell, or I would sell it at a discount and advertise it as "noisy".Ibanez, Boss, etc should have almost no noise. Electro-Harmonixeffects tend to be noisiest, with MXR close behind. Noise Gates I've got a long chain of all analog effects pedals,mostly Foxrox and your own analogman pedals, someothers as well. I was thinking it would be a good idea to get a noisegate, since i get a lot of noise when i start turning them on.It seems like there's not too many options, Any recommendations or alternatives?
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