Guitar Pro 8 Install
Sophie Reynolds
When installing frets, the goal is to get the fret wire seated as tightly and solidly as possible for the easiest fret crowning and setup work and ultimately the best sound, playability, and long-term stability from the guitar. The fret work is one of the most important parts of your guitar and has to look and feel good to the player. Most
Most people start out the guitar building journey with just a simple hammer for fretting their guitars. It does require some experience to get the technique right, but in a short while it can be mastered if an analytical approach is taken. The big problem with this method is that the force of the hammer blow can cause the fret ends to spring up and keep them from seating properly. A specialized dead-blow fret hammer can really help.
Hey Sam, I use the same one for the whole fingerboard. I sand the fingerboard itself using one radius. I press in each fret and then go over it with a hammer to be sure it is fully seated. I add the conical/compound radius when leveling the frets. It sounds odd I know, but I explain and demonstrate my whole process and how it works in Fretwork Mastery Part 1 and it really produces a wonderful feel and playability. Several of my guitars done this way have beat the PLEK (they required no modification when scanned) so somehow it works ?
hi. just wanted to ask, how tight a press should i do? this happened to me that the first 3 frets that i pressed are with full force (using fret press of course), but then the 2nd is the lowest and the third is the second lowest, making it not just rocking, but uneven. is it because i use it on full force? or do i just have to use it firmly and check each one?
I press them in with a decent force but not a huge amount. I just go by feel, and it feels a certain way when it fully sets. You can also see if you look with magnification if the fret bead is touching the fingerboard surface. I also go over each fret with a hammer after pressing to be sure they are all evenly seated; I show all this stuff in great detail in my online course Fretwork Mastery Part 1
You can't buy the electronics separately. You need to buy a Variax, strip out the electronics, and transplant them into a different (properly internally routed) guitar. Some people have done this themselves and some have paid experienced guitar techs to do it. Obviously no Line 6 warranty applies.
That's correct. The main board is only available by purchasing a guitar, or for ordering by an authorized service center in the context of repairing a guitar. I suppose one could try ordering the main board (and other unavailable parts if any) through a service center but I expect they would require a trade-in main board that needs replacing.
Can I send a Guitar to Line 6 to get a Variax system installed? I want better that the Korean version but do not want the 5K plus James Tyler. If I have a PRS that I loved, could I et Line 6 or a Line 6 Approved work shop to install it correctly?
Thank you for the response. So the LP or Start modeling is differently firmware for a JTV-59 and a JTV-69 because the woods and neck joint and scale length, and bridge all create a different starting point?
Don't hold your breath....if they started handing out do's and dont's to everybody who asks, that would be giving tacit approval to the modification of their products, which they don't (and likely never will) support.
Totally appreciate that it will sound different. That is what I'm going for - I really love the way my alder body 69 behaves when I use the modeling. I don't like the way the mahogany body 89F sounds. I'd love a 69 with a Floyd - that's what I'm going for
I considered this but after further investigation decided against it. After a good set-up I got used to the feel of the guitar and decided what I really didn't like about it was the look. I replaced the neck and middle pickups with SD stacks, created a custom pickguard template to have a new guard made, reshaped the headstock and got a new paint job, So far I am very happy with it.
I see you have fitted string trees - do they help with the behind the nut ringing? I have toyed with the idea of fitting a bar on mine just behind the nut so that all strings go over at the same angle. Has anybody else tried that? But I am a chicken when it comes doing a permanent changes to an expensive instrument - but I suppose as it is a 2011 model I could be a bit braver.
I am wanting to do something similar. I have a JTV59, the LP type and want to put the electronics into an Epiphone LP since the Variax guitar weighs like 15 pounds. I don't want to make any mods to the Variax stuff or change pickups. I literally wanna take out the Variax guts from the JTV and place them into an Epiphone LP. I realize I will have to route the back and all that, but I really don't see how I should have the problems all the naysayers on here are talking about. Granted the wood is different than the lead-impregnated wood Line 6 is using, so I expect there could be some change in tone, but my back will appreciate it so much that I'm not worried about it.
If you've undertaken major surgery like that before, and are confident that you know what you're doing, then have at it.... but you're not changing a tire. There will be numerous opportunities along the way for you to butcher a perfectly functional instrument.
I have a Variax Standard transplant project in the works. I have the cavities designed, but Fusion360-to-SVG file conversion issues are stopping me from loading them into my CNC at the moment. I'll let you know if I ever get to the finish line successfully.
What *I* would like to see is the availability of a Variax 700 Acoustic module. My guitars currently have piezos going out one output, and magnetics going out the other. I am quite pleased with my magnetics; those pickups give me exactly what I'm after. And my piezo output sounds good (Graphtech Ghost). But I would LOVE to have the Variax Acoustic models available - various 6-strings, 12-strings, sitar (!), etc. - to give me the variety of acoustic sounds I'd like to have. There's nothing like that on the market at present, and that would be so useful.
The purchase of a Guitar Pro license entitles you to install the software on 5 computers or operating systems simultaneously. These installations are intended for a single user, and by extension, for his or her family in the same household.
You will be able, for example, to reinstall Guitar Pro if you have changed your operating system, or to benefit from a double installation on a home computer and on a laptop belonging to the same user.
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Our friend Mark brought in his Squier Strat that he had been putting together during his time in quarantine. He added a Bigbsy vibrato, a roller bridge, and locking tuners, and was still having issues with it staying in tune. He asked us to do a PLEK fret level and setup, and to install a Fender LSR roller nut. Upon seeing the original plastic nut, we could see why he wanted an upgrade:
I am a bassist, guitar tech, and founder of Strange Guitarworks. When not working on guitars, I create experimental music under the moniker of UFO Death Cult, utilizing microtonal instruments of my own design.
For my Gotoh tuners, I had two different sized posts which allowed me to not have to install string trees. I simply had to place the taller three tuners on the lower 4, 5 and 6th string spots, and the shorter tuners on the higher 1, 2 and 3rd string spots. Easy!
Justin started playing guitar in 1999, and progressed to many more instruments in the following years including drums, bass, keys, and more. He's a freelancer around Chicago playing in local bands, teaching guitar, and playing Musician's Union shows. At zZounds, he's often on camera as the host of Gear Wire, product demo specialist, and audio/mixing engineer. Off-camera, Justin is a burgeoning vinyl hunter and amateur astronomer.
I could not install the deb package 32 bits on 64 bits Linux OS because of package dependencies. There are some old answers to this problem and none worked for me on Ubuntu Studio 19.04 (How to install Guitar Pro 6 on Kubuntu 15.10 64bit?).
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