Plane's and plane blades

[rush006]

I was just wondering if anyone in the forum uses "Academy saws" plane
blades. i have just bought 5 blades from Paul and am very happy with
the service and advice received from paul. I have only had the blades
a short time but so far I am very impressed. I have an old stanley , a
new stanley and a lie-nielsen. I bought 1 blade for the new stanley
and 2 each for the other 2 planes. (he is out of stock of old stanley
blades but they can be bought from another supplier in sydney).The
difference in the steel is really obvious when trying to sharpen.I
can't comment on how long the blades will last before sharpening as i
have only planed out 6 strips or one section of a 3 pc rod and the
blade still cuts fine. The original blades to the lie-neilsen are A2
steal the new blades are M2 HSS. will let you know how they go once i
have done a little more work with them.
Paul also put me on to a bloke in sydney that will true up old
stanley planes if any are interested. Did Stanley ever make a plane
with the blade shoe (or frog) parallel to the foot(or sole) of the
plane? I thought by getting an old Stanley it would have to be better
than the new one that is made in china. they are both so far out that
unless I sharpen the blades on an angle i can not get the gap of the
adjustable mouth to be even. will see how the old stanley is after
tuning (re machine the frog to be parallel with the sole). nothing
compares to the accuracy of machining in the lie-nielsen.

Any feedback on what others think of these blades would be great.
cheers Grant.

[Pat Sheridan]

Hi Grant,

I have six of Paul's blades and just love them.  I still sharpen each blade after each strip, but only do 600, 800 and 1200.  It only takes about 5 minutes.  I found that if I did more than a couple of strips I started to chink at the nodes, but that is probably because my nodes aren't straight enough.  I also found that I got less chinks if I planed against the grain.

My plane must be a bit out of the ordinary as I don't have a problem with the gap not being even.  Maybe I'm not looking at it right.

Best,

Pat

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[Grant Rushby]

Hi Pat,

            Reduce your gap of your mouth if you are getting chinks at the nodes. sharp is also the key. only 1 strip per sharpen?

when i am rough planing i let it chip out at the nodes a little but as i get to finished rough dimension i reduce depth of cut and reduce gap in the mouth and they soon plane out.

     Both of my Stanley planes were poorly made, the old one has been sent away to get tuned  up so i wont have to sharpen the blade out of square to get even gap and depth of cut. I bought a "work sharp" sharpener  which goes down to 6000 grit and find that that is enough for what I do. great for all my chisels and plane blades for work as well. 1200 might be a bit rough and that is why your not getting more than 1 strip. For really fine work i do  my chisels on a 8000 grit Japanese water stone. any less and they can crush strong fibers in some timbers rather than cut it cleanly.

I have only just noticed I am pushing a little harder on my plane now that I am on the 8th strip. will swap blades and see the difference. blade is still cutting clean without chips if adjusted properly. the only other thing that could effect blade life is the angle your sharpening it at. I keep around  30 deg.

cheers Grant

[Pat Sheridan]

Thanks mate.

Will do on the gap.  I had reduced it some but I'll go some more.

So from 1200 W&D what would you recommend going to next?  I notice Carbartec has 4000, 6000 and 8000 stones, would 1200 to 4000 be too much of a jump?  How do you store your water stones?  Do you really need something like the Veritas stone pond?

I'm sharpening at 25 deg so I get a 45 deg edge with the plane.  Might have to redo them all at 30.

Pat

[Grant Rushby]

pinch one of your wife's Tupperware containers to keep the stones wet you can buy good stones from paul as well. 1200 to 4000 will be ok. I go 1200 to 3600 to 6000 and only go to 8000  for finishing final planing or fine work at work when i really need it like a razor. I also strop on leather which was in an article in power fiber mag (they said not to) but i have found the edge is sharper. Who knows?

I change the gap every time i change the depth of cut. 

30 deg should make a difference with longevity of your edge.

I don't store my stones in water, i just pre soak them an hour or so before use. If i am going to work all weekend i will leave the stones in water all weekend.

cheers Mate good luck with the stones.

Grant

[Blake Swadling]

Pat

I've played with 25 30 and 35 degree angles recently.
25 seem to mess with my nodes too much. If the node is convex (nodal fibres go up and then down) it tears out as it leaves the node area.
35 ... hard to push due to the high angle. I get beautiful smooth bamboo but it tears the arse out of your forms!!
30 seems a good compromise so far

I get really fine wet and dry from bunnings, 2000 grit i think from memory and then go to the wet stone. I store the stone upside  submerged in a down in a tupperware container (that my wife still hasn't missed ... I told her we have too much of the stuff ).

Cheers
Blake

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[Grant Rushby]

looks like i only get 3 to 4 strips out of the lie-nielsen old A2 blades before i start to notice the extra pressure needed. so Pauls blades are twice as good as good plane blades.... if that makes sense.

On 16/01/2012, at 12:47 PM, Blake Swadling wrote:

Pat

I've played with 25 30 and 35 degree angles recently.
25 seem to mess with my nodes too much. If the node is convex (nodal fibres go up and then down) it tears out as it leaves the node area.
35 ... hard to push due to the high angle. I get beautiful smooth bamboo but it tears the arse out of your forms!!

30 seems a good compromise so far <face-smile.png>

I get really fine wet and dry from bunnings, 2000 grit i think from memory and then go to the wet stone. I store the stone upside  submerged in a down in a tupperware container (that my wife still hasn't missed ... I told her we have too much of the stuff <face-wink.png>).

[Boris Gaspar]

Not sure if you blokes are interested but I’ve posted this before; here’s the link on plane blade testing.

 

http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/Sharpen/bladetest.html

 

Academy Saw blades are very resistant by a significant amount and Lie Nielson blades are not all what its reputation deserves. LN plane bodies are first class but better blades could be used.

 

I didn’t end up going AS blades since I didn’t want to use diamond paste since I already had a waterstone to sharpen. Diamond paste is recommended for the best edge on a blade as hard as AS.

 

Here’s some more stuff on blade hardness & sharpening etc. http://bladetest.infillplane.com/html/steel_and_sharpness.html

 

I use 1000 & 6000 King waterstone and with 6 final planes, 2 with Hock A2 blades and the other 4 with old Stanley blades. I can usually finish an entire rod if I start with freshly sharpened blades. This excludes rough planing for which I use the newer not as good Stanley’s. Incidentally, the old Stanley blades work really well since they are not quite as hard so getting a very, very, sharp edge is easier, hence they cut really well but they lack in abrasion resistance. This means I need to sharpen them more often than the harder blades but when they are sharp they are every bit as good…. Even marginally better in cutting – while they are sharp – could just be me.

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