if you have a diode test function on your meter you should play around
with it..... basically you should see about 0.5v from base to emitter
and base to collector.
with an NPN transistor you should see good resistance (2-5M ohms) from
the P to the N where P connects to the RED meter lead and N connects
to the BLACK meter lead.
and you should see infinite resistance in the reversed
directions....... I might be a little off cuz I'm no transistor expert
but once you test a bunch more and compare then you will know what to
look for.
I bet your transistors are probably fine....
what I would do is just deal with the bi-filer coil first and make
sure it's wired properly to the first transistor network. If that
doesn't fire then why go any further....
When I first came back from the conference I was all eager and built
the kit at a friend's house with out my proper tools just like
everyone in the conference and it did nothing at all.
I had to undo everything and put it on a board and I even tested the
coils. I put the trigger coil on a volt meter and looked at what kind
of voltage I got when I passed the magnet. you should be getting a
negative voltage to the base as the magnet approaches, then when it
passes the coil a positive voltage developes and turns on the
transistor.
hope the helps.
On Jan 10, 12:48 am,
slepage...@aol.com wrote:
> Meehow,
>
> Thanks, I soldered mine up but it isn't running. I've got continuity through all of the coils. I'm going to take it to a stereo repairman and see if he can test the transistors. I'll tell him about your MJE 3055 suggestion. You guys that know what you are doing are a big help.
>
> Steve-----Original Message-----
> From: Meehow <
k7mic...@gmail.com>
> To: overunity <
over...@googlegroups.com>
> Sent: Sun, Jan 9, 2011 11:02 am
> Subject: Re: 3 Pole Pics
>
> Hi Steve.
> As far as photos go, I don't think that will do you any good because
> n my PCB solder job all you can see is how pretty the components
> ook, not what they are connected to.
> I pretty much followed the wiring diagram that's on the front page of
> he bedini_monopole3 group. I also have a copy of that same circuit in
> he document "bedini_window motor explained.doc" in the FILES section
> f this group.
> And the other thing; I went into Radio Shack and got 3 MJE3055
> ransistors in the TO-220 package. I NEVER had any luck with the
> rovided trannys. And when I started building the circuit I first did
> he main bifiler network and made sure it worked before I wired up the
> ext. And putting the circuit on a breadboard first instead of
> oldering right away helped me a lot. I had those trannys in backwards
> he first time.
> Another thing: I put the transistors in their own sockets so that I
> an easily replace them if they burn out.... which is now the case
> ctually. I was trying to restore a REALLY DEAD lead acid battery and
> he neon bulbs flashed a little bit too much and now I have to replace
> he Transistors, Neon bulbs, and probably all the Diodes. :(
> I'm posting a blurry (sorry) photo of my circuit, it's a top down
> iew.
> Hope that helps a little.
>
> On Jan 7, 11:20 pm,
slepage...@aol.com wrote:
> Mehow,
>
> Since your 3 Pole Bedini kit is running, would you show a picture or diagram
> f the wiring? I think I have the transistors and diodes figured out but I need
> o see how the switch and grain-of-sand bulb are wired in. Rolf's pictures are
> ood but I don't know if he has it wired right, no offense Rolf. Which terminals
> o you use on the switch and what do they do?
>
> Thanks, any help you can give is appreciated.
>
> Steve LePage-----Original Message-----
> From: rolf watness <
prodush...@gmail.com>
> To:
over...@googlegroups.com
> Sent: Sun, Jan 2, 2011 11:03 am
> Subject: 3 Pole Pics
>
> Well Folks,
>
> Like a bonehead knuckle breaking mechanic I pop'd two diodes by getting them
> oo close and soldering them. Here are some pictures but after a little trip to