Mein Kamf (My Struggle)

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rolf watness

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Jan 3, 2011, 10:38:29 PM1/3/11
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Well Folks,  I put some new diodes on but that was not the problem.  I found juice on both sides assembled and thought they were leaking.  However, the old ones were good and I'm back to the same problem: The thang won't spin around.  So:  I checked all the conections and poored over the diagram and made sure I got the inside wires right and the outside wires right and now I suspect the transistors and read up on them online and see that all that is needed is a small voltage to the middle pole of the transistor (base) and that completes the circuit between collector and emitter which should ground the coil and electromagnetically push against the magnet and force spin.  The motor coil does not work and so I jumpered the circuit emitter-collector and it pushed but would not spin.  Then I thought maybe the triggger wire was supposed to activate the base pole via a magnetic pulse like a lawn mower magneto which then would activate the motor coil on the upswing of the wheel.  I thought maybe the core wires were not close enough but after moving them up there was no change.
One thing good about all this is that on our group we can have these problems and then publish the solution unlike the SSG group that always just says "we don't spoonfeed."  Well bub, it don't work and I don't know why.
So if you have any good ideas help me out.  I think we should discover just exactly what is going on with these circuits and I'm thinking of drawing a voltage path diagram once I figure it out.
 
Rollo-no rollo 

radiant rollo

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Jan 15, 2011, 10:04:14 PM1/15/11
to overunity
Again, I have no-go. I built an entire new set up with new parts and
took every precaution and it doesn't do anything.
No lights no spin no nothing. I may try some 12v batteries.
I'm thinking maybe the batteries are supposed to pulse the coil and
complete the circuit via the transistor. I really
am ready to put it on the shelf really.
R.

slepa...@aol.com

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Jan 16, 2011, 2:24:09 AM1/16/11
to over...@googlegroups.com
Rollo,
 
Mine doesn't work either. I'm not very knowledgeable about electronics. Meehow had some good suggestions. The transistors had some resistance between two legs and infinite between the other two. I slowly spun the magnets around the trigger coil and saw it develop 1 positive volt and then switch over at top dead center and show 1 negative volt. I tried 18volt portable drill batteries and that didn't work. I think I'll take it back to Renaissance Chargers and pay them to fix it. The molded kit is beautiful, I just want to get it running so I can show people.
Steve

Meehow

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Jan 16, 2011, 3:25:12 AM1/16/11
to overunity
Oh Man, I'm so sorry to hear that. It's SUPER frustrating when you put
so much energy into it and nothing happens. Believe me, I know.

Those little 9V batts are NOT the way to go. For building purposes
work with 12V..... or better yet, a drill battery, or a power supply.
I'm sure you have a spare ATX power supply in the basement or some old
adapter you're not using. You wanna isolate as many variables as
possible. Having a good source voltage is one of those.

Also, just work with one transistor network. If you can get that
trigger coil to turn on the transistor and conduct current into the
drive coil then the rest is in the bag.

don't even bother with the secondary battery. Just make sure the Top
of the Trigger winding goes to the Base and the Bottom of the Trigger
goes to the Emitter. Then, Top of the Drive winding goes to Collector
and Bottom of Drive winding goes to Emitter.

If all that is wired correctly then turn on the power and spin the
rotor.. since you disconnected the secondary battery, you should get
the neon bulb to flash with the pulses.

And please tell me you're not using the supplied transistors!!!!!!! I
don't know what these fools were thinking..... probably $0.15 per
transistor as opposed to $1.25 for an MJE3055 X 200-300 people. Those
supplied trannys are rated for something like 80Vce, mean while when
the coils conduct you are getting 150V spikes EASY!!! Actually
wait..... if you're running the kit off 9V batteries then the supplied
8099 transistors MIGHT just barely be a hair above the minimum spec.

Now I understand why so many people have a problem with you know how.
Lack of professionalism... I mean seriously, who in their right mind
sells a kit for $100 plus dollars with out a printed circuit board?
Let alone correct components?

I should stop here before I rant any further with pessimism.

Just keep at it. And believe me, this kit isn't wired in any kind of
magical way, it's all regular electronics.... the only difference is
that it produces Scalar waves very efficiently and if done right can
give you over unity.

Best regards.

Meehow

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Jan 16, 2011, 3:49:27 AM1/16/11
to overunity
I made a simple schematic to test if the transistor is working with
your trigger winding.

I put an LED in place of the Drive coil so you can see the transistor
switching properly.

https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B-lGySpHUMdENTFjOWYzYTQtZjUzMi00MGRlLWI0ODctYmE3NGJjYzBhODdi&hl=en&authkey=CNDF8PED

The LED should light up after the magnet moves away from the coil and
the back EMF activates the transistor.

On Jan 15, 7:04 pm, radiant rollo <prodush...@gmail.com> wrote:

radiant rollo

unread,
Jan 16, 2011, 9:45:31 PM1/16/11
to overunity
Here in no rollo zone I am getting smarter but the machine is dumber
then a rock.
I combed the monopole 3 site trying to get an answer. One posting
said move the
core wires up real close. I did that and then used higher voltage. I
got the magnet
to repel but the wheel won't spin. No lights come on so I still am in
the dark. I would
expect the trigger to come on and then pulse the motor coil not just
go into repel mode.
So you say a MJE3055 is a good choice. I see from all the stuff I
ordered from the
electronics company I only have NPN transistors. I got them off of a
bedini co. list
and they go to something I guess. I wish I could figure it out and I
know lots of people
all around the world are having trouble.

These kits list for $250 on R-Charge/truth in heart
> > > Rollo-no rollo- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

radiant rollo

unread,
Jan 16, 2011, 10:24:12 PM1/16/11
to overunity
Rollo here- and shucks by doodle I have 20 MJE3055T diodes here in my
order!
Send me an address and I'll shoot some your way. free! (for free
energy)
Kinda like free sex.
Quote: Is it better to have Loved and lost than to have paid for it
and not like it?
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

radiant rollo

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Jan 18, 2011, 5:02:41 PM1/18/11
to overunity
O.K. I've got MJE3055T PNP transistors on it so that eliminates them.
However I get only a VERY negligible voltage coming out of the
trigger. I have my meter sent on 200Mv so by negligible... I have the
welding rods very close to the magnet. It doesn't help. Maybe that
is wrong. Variables! Must cut down on variables. When I quick touch
the poles emitter- collector I get a repulse. So I don't have the
power from the trigger circuit strong enough to activate the
transistor. But why daddy? They are strong magnets. The wires go
round the core. There should be a voltage induced. On 200Mv setting
I get a flash of a 6-7. That would be millivolts. Nada. The coil
wire circuit is complete, no breakage. The grain of wheat bulb is
good but never lights. Hiho Trigger! (dammit)

On Jan 16, 12:24 am, slepage...@aol.com wrote:
> Rollo,
>
> Mine doesn't work either. I'm not very knowledgeable about electronics. Meehow had some good suggestions. The transistors had some resistance between two legs and infinite between the other two. I slowly spun the magnets around the trigger coil and saw it develop 1 positive volt and then switch over at top dead center and show 1 negative volt. I tried 18volt portable drill batteries and that didn't work. I think I'll take it back to Renaissance Chargers and pay them to fix it. The molded kit is beautiful, I just want to get it running so I can show people.
>
> Steve
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: radiant rollo <prodush...@gmail.com>
> To: overunity <over...@googlegroups.com>
> Sent: Sat, Jan 15, 2011 7:04 pm
> Subject: Re: Mein Kamf (My Struggle)
>
> Again, I have no-go.  I built an entire new set up with new parts and
> ook every precaution and it doesn't do anything.
> No lights no spin no nothing.  I may try some 12v batteries.
> 'm thinking maybe the batteries are supposed to pulse the coil and
> omplete the circuit via the transistor.  I really
> m ready to put it on the shelf really.
> .
> On Jan 3, 8:38 pm, rolf watness <prodush...@gmail.com> wrote:
>  Well Folks,  I put some new diodes on but that was not the problem.  I found
>  juice on both sides assembled and thought they were leaking.  However, the
>  old ones were good and I'm back to the same problem: The thang won't spin
>  around.  So:  I checked all the conections and poored over the diagram and
>  made sure I got the inside wires right and the outside wires right and now I
>  suspect the transistors and read up on them online and see that all that is
>  needed is a small voltage to the middle pole of the transistor (base) and
>  that completes the circuit between collector and emitter which should ground
>  the coil and electromagnetically push against the magnet and force spin.
>  The motor coil does not work and so I jumpered the circuit emitter-collector
>  and it pushed but would not spin.  Then I thought maybe the triggger wire
>  was supposed to activate the base pole via a magnetic pulse like a lawn
>  mower magneto which then would activate the motor coil on the upswing of the
>  wheel.  I thought maybe the core wires were not close enough but after
>  moving them up there was no change.
>  One thing good about all this is that on our group we can have these
>  problems and then publish the solution unlike the SSG group that always just
>  says "we don't spoonfeed."  Well bub, it don't work and I don't know why.
>  So if you have any good ideas help me out.  I think we should discover just
>  exactly what is going on with these circuits and I'm thinking of drawing a
>  voltage path diagram once I figure it out.
>

Meehow

unread,
Jan 19, 2011, 1:58:15 AM1/19/11
to overunity
just to clarify, I'm pretty sure the MJE3055's are NPN type. If you
have a PNP it probably wount work.

Double check your pinout of the tranny. It's different than the
mps8099's.

left to right (front view) it's BASE COLLECTOR EMITTER

also make sure that diode has the white tip going towards the BASE
from the EMITTER, having it backwards will short out any possibility
of triggering.

When I was measuring the trigger voltage, I had the RED lead connected
to the top wire (out side) of the the trigger coil, and the BLACK lead
connected to the bottom wire (inner wire I believe). No resistors or
anything, just the winding strait to the meter in VDC, and when I
passed the magnet SLOWLY at first I got -20mV and when the magnet went
away I got about +20mV.

Try taking the Grain Of Wheat bulb out and just have the resistor in..
or if you have any other resistors put a 100 ohm in there (Brown Black
Brown (silver/or gold))

That transistor wount fire until the rotor has enough speed to move
those magnets across the coil fast enough to induce 0.7V (700mV).
Really, it shouldn't be that fast for it to trigger.

If you have the Charging Battery out of the picture you'll notice that
the tranny is firing because the Neon Bulb will light up to absorb the
Back EMF.

Those welding rods are probably affecting the overall circuit, but I
believe that if all is wired correctly and functioning you should
still get it to spin. If anything the proximity of the rods will only
add magnetic friction and make it have a higher threshold of speed to
get it to sustain rotation.




oh oh oh .... I just remembered..... one of the first things I did to
all the coils was keep my Inner Wires on the bottom (base of the coil)
and move my Outer Wire to the opposite end (Top) so that I was certain
to get my orientation. It's easy to get those mixed up. Also, and I
highly doubt this, but it is a possibility that some coils might be
wound the wrong way. You never know, some one might have changed
shifts and did a whole set of bad coils. But I would rule out
everything else first. however, if the Bifiler wires were wound
together then I don't think it would make that much difference, at
least not until you add the slave coils and they have an opposite
orientation. That's why it's good to start with one coil and work your
way up... That's what happened with Rick and the 30 coiler, some one
wound some coils backwards and they assumed it was all good until
nothing happened.



I'm sure you are getting close.... I can feel it.

=D
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