Brad harrison plugs
Gys Vermeulen
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Gys Vermeulen
Phambili Africa Safaris
Registered Overland Guide GP2096, Animal Scientist
email address: gys.ve...@gmail.com
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A. H. (Eric) Sommer
Gys:
Bring them along on Friday and I’ll show you.
However, in the meantime.
Place the cable into the end of the metal bit, solder it and then crimp it when it’s cooled.
Do this for both.
On the plastic there is a ‘+’ and a ‘-‘ marked. Due to the design of the unit, each portion is the same, but they connect upside down to each other so, +=+ and -=-
Now, on the one side of the metal bit, you will see a ‘ridge’ – this must clip over the end of the spring inside the plastic bit.
So, push it into the plastic bit, making sure the lip is facing in such a way it will clop over the spring.
Repeat for other side and Voila – you are done!
Cheers
A.H. (Eric) Sommer
CommerceQuest South Africa (Pty) Limited
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1988 FJ62/TLCA#13050/FWDCSA#3000/TLCSA/29Mhz(AM) & 35Mhz(FM)-T70/CMCDA/HAM - ZR6ETR/ORM
Donald Pittendrigh
It is better to crimp with a good quality hexagonal crimper and not solder the cable, but that is a good quality crimper, not a shitty dimple crimper, I have such a crimper (good one I mean), they are quite pricy, and anyone in my area or Durbs is welcome to give me a shout if they want the crimp done properly.
Remember also that the cable used when doing a professional installation must be the right crossectional area for the lug, do not expect to get a good result with a 16mm cable in a 35mm lug.
DP
Marc Hall - isinyoni
I have always soldered lugs to cable but when the topic of soldering vs crimping became hot debate a few months back, I began to doubt my methods and put the question to a few quite respected okes on and off this forum.
Replies were mixed but in general soldering a better conductor but not recommended in cases of rigid joints which are susceptible to high vibration.
IMHO this most auxillary wiring installations aren’t rigid therefore soldering prefered
Marc Hall - isinyoni
Eric, you sure about that? Crimping “after” soldering can/will crack the solder
solder it and then crimp it when it’s cooled.
Nico Roets
Jerry Wienand
Will soldering not ‘melt’ when subjected to high amperage heat?
Jerry (crimping? I tend to use the side cutter and crimp the lugs in half;-( )
From:
overlan...@googlegroups.com [mailto:overlan...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Marc Hall - isinyoni
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007
10:52 AM
To:
overlan...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Overland]
Re: Brad harrison plugs
Eric, you sure about that? Crimping “after” soldering can/will crack the solder
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Gys Vermeulen
Hennie Rautenbach
> I am a technical imbecile, but I stuff some solder wire in with the
> cable, crimp the lot and then heat it to smelt the solder... not sure
> if its good or bad, but so far nothing I have done this way has let me
> down.
Sounds brilliant...
HenryT
Try soldering a contact onto a toaster element. The solder melts immediately you apply current. High amperage – a crimp with a quality tool is all that is required. Buildings drawing in excess of 500amps all rely on crimped joints on their supply cables.
HenryT
Donald Pittendrigh
Solder melts and cracks and has no intrinsic strength, if you solder before the crimp, the solder cracks and the lug becomes loose, the solder tarnishes and provides a point of bad contact, the current goes up across the bad joint and heats up and melts the solder, the cable pops out.
If you crimp then solder, the heat expands the crimped lug and it doesn’t hold properly any more, following this the above scenario.
When I wired my recently built office complex I prewired telephone lines and ADSL incoming lines using solder and heatshrink, when Telkom came to do the installation they went through my work and lectured me, I asked why and the above was the explanation. Telkom prefers the sh1tty little knife edge connectors to a soldered and heatshrunk join, this was a surprise so I did some homework.
Acceptable industrial standards appear to be totally devoid of soldered connections for any cables, I could not find one reference to a soldered joint being preferable to a CORRECTLY crimped joint.
This does not include the sidecutter crimp and the longnose plier squash or the put it together and tighten the screw to crimp methods, they are all inferior to a well soldered joint, but a properly crimped lug last for a long time, and solder only serves to degrade the termination.
DP
A. H. (Eric) Sommer
>> Crimping “after” soldering can/will crack the solder
Never had it do that to me.
And when I say “crimp”, I refer to a ‘tightening’ around the outer extremity of the metal lug.
If your solder cracks, you have issues as this stuff is tin and lead (or current replacement) which is designed to fuse and provide resilience in the joint.
A. H. (Eric) Sommer
>> but a properly crimped lug last for a long time
Agree with everything you say Donald, but the problem is “Properly Crimped”
Few of us have a “proper crimper” ie: 360 grip, correctly sized, etc etc.
I’ve not had any cr@p with the way I’ve been doing it for years. In fact, I’ve got some battery to battery connections that are still operational after 10 years.
If I had the money, and could justify, having a decent crimping tool, sure. But I don’t and can’t. J J
Ivan Marais
Bought myself a pair of these plugs for connection with my fridge. But I feel very stupid not able to see how it works. It does not seem to slide in fully and how must the pins (to which the electric cable must be crimped or soldered - right?) fit in there?
I will give you the way I do it.Clean and pre-solder the ends of the wire.Clamp the metal inserts in a vice and heat from the outside with a gas flame. Fill the little cup with solder. ( I use the type with less lead, as is used in connecting copper plumbing pipes). While still hot, insert the wire and wait a moment or two for the solder to set.When inserting into the plastic, make sure you have the metal portion the right way round. The little lip clips over the metal springlike area inside the plug. Push hard in with a srewdriverIvan
Donald Pittendrigh
Aha that is full circle, I started this by saying a good hexagonal crimper, I have one which cost me about R600, which is capable of various sizes from 16mm to 120mm using rotating jaw inserts, I could justify the cost because it is sometimes necessary to build electrical panels in my business and so I have to have the right tools.
But then R600 is not so bad if you think about it, only three bottles of good glenfiddich. Bought from Weidmuller by the way, I thought it was quite reasonable.
I have gotten beyond wearing myself out in the workshop with almost right, almost competent, elcheapo tools, I go there for peace and quiet and to get away from my desk, find a little welding and crimping and drilling and bending most therapeutic, and I cannot enjoy it fighting with k@k tools and bad end results.
Attached mini brad Harrison type plug showing the curved lip on the lug and the steel plate inside the lug housing, sorry for bad focus but I have to go do some work now. Also decent crimper and cable cutter, essential tools for doing the job properly, they are the only right way, regardless of how well your solder joint may or may not last, and the end result shown by way of a few lugs on the copper bars in the power distribution box of my cruiser. If anyone is really interested in how far this can go, I will find some pics of big HT cables that have crimped lugs on, in industry this is done with an hydraulic press with interchangeable jaws = big big bucks. Guaranteed the cables bringing power from Eskom into your house have a multitude of cables made off exactly like this with exactly this sort of tool.
Enjoy.
Cheers
DP
From: overlan...@googlegroups.com
[mailto:overlan...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of A. H. (Eric)
Sommer
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 11:43 AM
To: overlan...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Overland] Re: Brad harrison plugs
>> but a properly crimped lug last for a long time
DeonK
<<Is there not an inline switch (the bedlamp stuff does not work) available and where? I want something that can disconnect easily.
<<Thanks
<<Gys
Gys then you take a piece of string through the hole in the plug, or both of them for that matter, and this gives a better grip when disconnecting…sorry for the bad cellphone pic…
Deon
S 33.84836
E 18.69898
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deon_kotze/
"Follow the sun not the crowds"
From: overlan...@googlegroups.com [mailto:overlan...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Gys Vermeulen
Sent: 18 April 2007 10:58
Aubrey
HenryT
Aubrey, I was trying to get the principle across. AC suffers from harmonics which usually exacerbates the problem.
-----Original Message-----
From:
overlan...@googlegroups.com [mailto:overlan...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Aubrey
Sent: 18 April 2007 01:56 PM
To: overlan...@googlegroups.com
Subject: [Overland] Re: Brad
harrison plugs
Toaster is a heating element ...your joint on the Harrison plug should never get hot. If it does, you have done a crap job.
Ivan Marais
Douwk
I have gotten beyond wearing myself out in the workshop with almost right, almost competent, elcheapo tools, I go there for peace and quiet and to get away from my desk, find a little welding and crimping and drilling and bending most therapeutic, and I cannot enjoy it fighting with k@k tools and bad end results.
I can only say amen to that. Why poeple (myself included) who buy expensive cars, always want to skimp on tools is beyond me. The few decent tools that I have bought, some in my early and poor years, are still giving good service. Why buy a R40 pair of pliers if you can get a much better one for R80 (and then polish a R60 bottle of wine the same night). Does not make sense but poeple fall for it, time and again.
Douw K