Baviaanskloof Trip Report
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Merwe Erasmus
Mar 24, 2021, 5:34:14 AM3/24/21
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There seems to be a need for local trip reports. Here is a copy of our recent Baviaanskloof trip:
We have spent the last week in the Baviaanskloof. The first day we travelled from Cape Town to Barrydale where we stayed at the Barrydale Karoo Lodge. We had dinner at Mez and I will recommend this restaurant. It is situated in a house with a beautiful garden and they serve Mediterranean/Middle Eastern type food. Skip this place if you are a burger and chips man.
On Day 2 we travelled via Ronnies Sex Shop, Ladismith, Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn to De Rust where we had lunch at Ray’s. Burgers and chips! Then it was onwards to the Nuwekloof Pass to Makadaat. We booked in at Aalwynbak, an overhanging cave with a kitchen, braai, and ablution facilities. The cave sleeps about 10 people, we were 8, there was more than enough space. To reach the caves one has to travel up a steep path, I had to engage 4x4, I doubt if a front wheel drive sedan will make it up the hill.
We finished the day with a good old fashioned braai : chops and wors.
The next morning we hiked the Cedar Falls trail. You walk in a dry riverbed for a few kilometres and then you have to wade or swim through a few pools. This year is the 5th dry year in the Baviaans and we could see that the trail would be much tougher after good rains as the pools would be much bigger and you would be required to swim much longer distances. But the 8 of us made it through. The 9.3 km took us about 6 hours. Back at the cave we had a great curry chicken potjie and chocolates. And a bit of red wine of course, we earned it on the trail.
Day 4 we first checked out some of the other cave type accommodation, had a look at the “Dung table”, a table with images and examples of the dung of most of the mammals that occur in the area. The Bosvark produces an impressive looking turd. We then travelled a short distance on the R332 to Duiwekloof, where we stayed in chalets. Duiwekloof is well maintained with grass and flower beds, it offers camping and there is an option to eat in their restaurant. Not for campers though, they have to cook their own meals. The afternoon a few of us went back to Makadaat to tackle a 4x4 route, it was steep, but low risk and we managed to get up and down fairly comfortably. Rib eye steak, potatoes and salads were on the menu for our evening meal. Spookfontein’s Syrah was also very popular.
We had breakfast at the restaurant, it was acceptable, but they are not in line for a Michelin star. Just as we were about to leave, my one buddy decided this is the opportune time to buy shares in a food delivery company listed on the Hong Kong stock exchange. They say that timing is everything when you invest in the stock market but 7 of us felt that his timing was off. We decided to leave him struggling with the slow internet and the difficult currency conversions and we commenced our journey further east. We travelled a full 14 km when we came upon the Bavijaans Plaaskombuis. They served great coffee and we had a few cups while we waited for our investor buddy to arrive. He did arrive just after we had our second cup, but then he made a u turn and shot off back west in the direction of Duiwekloof. We later heard that just as they approached the Plaaskombuis, his wife suddenly realised that she had left all her rings on the table of their chalet. After half an hour they were back, all smiles, rings on Karen’s fingers.
Our stop for the night was another cave, Bakkrans, about 15 km from our coffee spot.
I was the last to leave the Plaaskombuis and when I turned left into the tweespoor leading to Bakkrans I was the first to arrive at the cave. The rest of the party, led by my investor friend, overshot the target and ended up at the gate to the Nature Reserve, 21 km further down the road! The gatekeeper/game ranger had to give them directions. My buddy always bragged that he travels on a paper map and although he has a more than adequate GPS in the car, he did not make use of it. About 50 minutes later the rest of the group arrived and we had a quick beer to celebrate the reunion.
Bakkrans lies between two narrow and steep cliffs and I liked the setup. It is basically an open plan room, but our group has travelled together for many years and we know each other well.
My wife and I were in charge of the lamb potjie for the evening, she prepared and cooked the potjie and I was in charge of the important function of keeping the cook lubricated. Early evening the farmer who owns the land came for a visit, ostensibly to see if we were ok, but we heard that his wife took their children to Oudtshoorn for school, so I guess he was just looking for a bit of conversation. And a beer. Nice salt of the earth bloke and we had a good chat with him about the Baviaanskloof farmers and their challenges.
The potjie turned out very nice, I must have done a good job with the wine. My wife also baked bread for padkos for the next day.
The following day was a rest day and I took a short drive to the Nature Reserve and I visited a few old buildings and took some images of the NG Kerk and an amorous donkey trying his luck with a horse. The mare was not impressed and bit and kicked Loverboy.
Lunch was leftover potjie on the fresh bread, I then had a good nap.
Chicken sosaties were on the menu and I went to bed early, despite my afternoon nap.
The next morning it was coffee and rusks and we packed up. The real Baviaanskloof starts at the entrance to the Nature Reserve. R51,00 cash per person , no card facilities, no Wild Cards accepted.
The roads are not maintained, it isn’t real 4x4 terrain, but one needs high clearance. We turned off at Geelhoutbos. About 22 years ago we stayed in the Forestry huts with our children. The huts are no longer there and it seems that nature has reclaimed the valley. It is a beautiful spot, my favourite in the whole Baviaanskloof and it is a great pity that the public can no longer experience the beauty and magic of Geelhoutbos.
We then negotiated three mountain passes, Grasnek, Holgat with its concrete twee spoor strips and the Combrick’s. I walked down to the Cableway at the top of Holgat Pass. Spectacular views, up and down. All too soon, a mere 5 hours later, we were at the eastern gate of the park.
We went through Patensie, then down to the N2 to Stormsrivier Mouth where we stayed for another two nights, hiking the Waterfall Route (a section of Day 1 of the Otter Trail) to spectacular sight of the waterval, the big fresh water pool and the smaller water fall into the sea. The next day we hiked east to the suspension bridges. We also had lunch at Fynbosdraai Farm, the menu is cheese, cheese and cheese with fresh bread and salads. There are only three tables. It was a feast in a forest to remember. Everything is grown and produced on the farm.
The last day was a leisurely drive back to Cape Town, with stops at Plettenberg Bay, Buffels Bay, Wilderness and lastly for a venison pie at Peregrine.
We should have stayed longer, travelled slower.
On Day 2 we travelled via Ronnies Sex Shop, Ladismith, Calitzdorp and Oudtshoorn to De Rust where we had lunch at Ray’s. Burgers and chips! Then it was onwards to the Nuwekloof Pass to Makadaat. We booked in at Aalwynbak, an overhanging cave with a kitchen, braai, and ablution facilities. The cave sleeps about 10 people, we were 8, there was more than enough space. To reach the caves one has to travel up a steep path, I had to engage 4x4, I doubt if a front wheel drive sedan will make it up the hill.
We finished the day with a good old fashioned braai : chops and wors.
The next morning we hiked the Cedar Falls trail. You walk in a dry riverbed for a few kilometres and then you have to wade or swim through a few pools. This year is the 5th dry year in the Baviaans and we could see that the trail would be much tougher after good rains as the pools would be much bigger and you would be required to swim much longer distances. But the 8 of us made it through. The 9.3 km took us about 6 hours. Back at the cave we had a great curry chicken potjie and chocolates. And a bit of red wine of course, we earned it on the trail.
Day 4 we first checked out some of the other cave type accommodation, had a look at the “Dung table”, a table with images and examples of the dung of most of the mammals that occur in the area. The Bosvark produces an impressive looking turd. We then travelled a short distance on the R332 to Duiwekloof, where we stayed in chalets. Duiwekloof is well maintained with grass and flower beds, it offers camping and there is an option to eat in their restaurant. Not for campers though, they have to cook their own meals. The afternoon a few of us went back to Makadaat to tackle a 4x4 route, it was steep, but low risk and we managed to get up and down fairly comfortably. Rib eye steak, potatoes and salads were on the menu for our evening meal. Spookfontein’s Syrah was also very popular.
We had breakfast at the restaurant, it was acceptable, but they are not in line for a Michelin star. Just as we were about to leave, my one buddy decided this is the opportune time to buy shares in a food delivery company listed on the Hong Kong stock exchange. They say that timing is everything when you invest in the stock market but 7 of us felt that his timing was off. We decided to leave him struggling with the slow internet and the difficult currency conversions and we commenced our journey further east. We travelled a full 14 km when we came upon the Bavijaans Plaaskombuis. They served great coffee and we had a few cups while we waited for our investor buddy to arrive. He did arrive just after we had our second cup, but then he made a u turn and shot off back west in the direction of Duiwekloof. We later heard that just as they approached the Plaaskombuis, his wife suddenly realised that she had left all her rings on the table of their chalet. After half an hour they were back, all smiles, rings on Karen’s fingers.
Our stop for the night was another cave, Bakkrans, about 15 km from our coffee spot.
I was the last to leave the Plaaskombuis and when I turned left into the tweespoor leading to Bakkrans I was the first to arrive at the cave. The rest of the party, led by my investor friend, overshot the target and ended up at the gate to the Nature Reserve, 21 km further down the road! The gatekeeper/game ranger had to give them directions. My buddy always bragged that he travels on a paper map and although he has a more than adequate GPS in the car, he did not make use of it. About 50 minutes later the rest of the group arrived and we had a quick beer to celebrate the reunion.
Bakkrans lies between two narrow and steep cliffs and I liked the setup. It is basically an open plan room, but our group has travelled together for many years and we know each other well.
My wife and I were in charge of the lamb potjie for the evening, she prepared and cooked the potjie and I was in charge of the important function of keeping the cook lubricated. Early evening the farmer who owns the land came for a visit, ostensibly to see if we were ok, but we heard that his wife took their children to Oudtshoorn for school, so I guess he was just looking for a bit of conversation. And a beer. Nice salt of the earth bloke and we had a good chat with him about the Baviaanskloof farmers and their challenges.
The potjie turned out very nice, I must have done a good job with the wine. My wife also baked bread for padkos for the next day.
The following day was a rest day and I took a short drive to the Nature Reserve and I visited a few old buildings and took some images of the NG Kerk and an amorous donkey trying his luck with a horse. The mare was not impressed and bit and kicked Loverboy.
Lunch was leftover potjie on the fresh bread, I then had a good nap.
Chicken sosaties were on the menu and I went to bed early, despite my afternoon nap.
The next morning it was coffee and rusks and we packed up. The real Baviaanskloof starts at the entrance to the Nature Reserve. R51,00 cash per person , no card facilities, no Wild Cards accepted.
The roads are not maintained, it isn’t real 4x4 terrain, but one needs high clearance. We turned off at Geelhoutbos. About 22 years ago we stayed in the Forestry huts with our children. The huts are no longer there and it seems that nature has reclaimed the valley. It is a beautiful spot, my favourite in the whole Baviaanskloof and it is a great pity that the public can no longer experience the beauty and magic of Geelhoutbos.
We then negotiated three mountain passes, Grasnek, Holgat with its concrete twee spoor strips and the Combrick’s. I walked down to the Cableway at the top of Holgat Pass. Spectacular views, up and down. All too soon, a mere 5 hours later, we were at the eastern gate of the park.
We went through Patensie, then down to the N2 to Stormsrivier Mouth where we stayed for another two nights, hiking the Waterfall Route (a section of Day 1 of the Otter Trail) to spectacular sight of the waterval, the big fresh water pool and the smaller water fall into the sea. The next day we hiked east to the suspension bridges. We also had lunch at Fynbosdraai Farm, the menu is cheese, cheese and cheese with fresh bread and salads. There are only three tables. It was a feast in a forest to remember. Everything is grown and produced on the farm.
The last day was a leisurely drive back to Cape Town, with stops at Plettenberg Bay, Buffels Bay, Wilderness and lastly for a venison pie at Peregrine.
We should have stayed longer, travelled slower.
I published images of each day on my Flickr account : Merwe Erasmus
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Merwe Erasmus
james...@gmail.com
Mar 24, 2021, 5:43:24 AM3/24/21
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Thanks Merwe, seems there are still a lot of local places to visit.
Kind regards
James
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Jeff Morris
Mar 25, 2021, 2:46:57 AM3/25/21
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Thanks Merwe.
Well written and comprehensive.
Jeff
Nico Roets
Mar 25, 2021, 3:24:55 AM3/25/21
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Thanks Merwe
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4x4's and other stuff for sale:
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Regards,
Nico Roets.
Nico Roets.
Mac Mc Laren
Mar 30, 2021, 1:45:54 AM3/30/21
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Baie dankie Merwe
From: overlan...@googlegroups.com <overlan...@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Jeff Morris
Sent: Thursday, 25 March 2021 08:47
To: overland-forum <overlan...@googlegroups.com>
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