Peugeot 308 Rear Bulb Replacement

[Dunstan Jomphe]

Thepicture and instructions are rather confusing for someone who had not seen the car in person, but hope this helps. If it does, please, comment here and clarify, so I can edit the post for the next person with the same problem.

You don't really need to move the carpet. There's a plastic moulding that when unclipped exposes the fasteners for the light cluster. It's then just a case of releasing the light and replacing with a new unit (they're not cheap though!)

Do not open the roofis very simpleremove the three screws on plastic covering the roof strutsand then is a plastic cover odds you with a little grommet need to pull it out helping yourself with small flat screwdriver which is on three clips attached to itYou will see it is rear end of the roof rest grommet/ largethen unscrew the brown plastic screw and the light is outP.Sother end of the light/ facing the front of the car is on clipeasyIf the light is not working check the number plate bulb and if is gone just change it and the leds on rear light will be back working and you don't need the take it offGOOD LUCK

A scuffed bumper aside, the main damage was to the rear tail light, which needed replacement. A look on eBay brought up a second hand unit for 70 quid (new ones appear to be 120), so it was time to get the spanners out and hide my shame!

Handy hint: If you aren't sure exactly which model your car is, look up the registration online. Mine is the 308 Allure Sw S/S registered in 2018. No, I didn't know this. I mean there is a badge on the back, so I know some of it, but the bewildering model nomenclature - we didn't have this problem with VW Beetles!

To make sure I ordered the correct part, I removed the light unit to see the sticker on the bottom which has the exact part number. Searching on this took me to the right component and ensured I was confident I had the bit I wanted.

The light unit is held in place with a pair of bolts. Initially I'd expected more, but then realised that changing a bulb requires the removal of the light unit, so the job needs to be reasonably easy.

Reassembly is the reverse of the above - and that's it. The job took around 20 minutes because I wasn't rushing things. Putting new bulbs in would require pretty much the same work, hence the access hatch I suppose.

Legal note: This is an accurate description of what I did. I am not a professional mechanic and these notes are offered for entertainment only. If you chose to follow them and things don't work, it's not my fault. Sorry. If you are at all unsure then get a professional to do the job. The car used was a 2018 UK spec 308, other models may be different.

Issy has just kept her 100% record for damaging our new cars within six weeks of buying them. This time she backed the Kuga, equipped with every imaginable parking aid,into the skip that has been sitting on our drive for two weeks. "It is OK, I've only broken the glass over the stoplight"

Five hundred pounds later it has a new rear light cluster

Make/model denominations are indeed getting crazy, I own a 2015 MG6 GT DTI-Tech TSE. Talk about a mouthful, in a way it's a good thing there were less than 3000 sold throughout the whole of Europe before it was discontinued.

A few years ago, I took our car to the dealer to replace a front headlight? sidelight? bulb.

The service agent asked if I had cruise control. (I didn't) He said that the bulb changed very easily from the back except that the cruise control module was mounted right behind the lights. He owned the same model but with cruise control.

HI Phil,I last commented about your tugboat. I went rowing about 3 weeks ago and taking the boat back to the car tired and not paying attention, smashed a hole in the taillight with an oarlock. Picked up all the pieces. even the tiniest fragments. A week later,unbolted the taillight,used a dremel cutting disc to remove the red and clear lens as it was glued to the body, and puzzled the pieces back together with liquid solvent. Was left with three little gaps which filled with tube plastic cement and the tiny fragments. Does not look too bad. When i next get a roundtuit i will polish and future it a bit.

I had exactly the same issue and couldn't believe the lack ofresources on the internet or elsewhere. Saying that, it's very easywhen you know how, so here goes: 1) Remove the large cap on therear of the headlight assembly (it has a tab to help you do this).2) Pull off the terminal wiring assembly (rearwards - referenced tocar direction). Quite difficult to get this to budge, and you mightskin your knuckles on surrounding hardware, so be careful. 3)Remove top of copper coloured retaining spring. Should be intuitive(hard to describe in words). Push clip forwards (referenced to cardirection) and then across to release. It's on a hinge, so noworries about losing it. 4) Gently pull out bulb. 5) Replace bulb,taking care not to touch glass on new bulb. Ensure lug us upwards,and that the metal collar is flush with the mating surface/ 6)Replace clip. Should not be diffiicult. If it is, you've done (5)wrong. 7) Push electrical connector back on so it mates securely.8) Replace cover, ensure that it is firmly inserted about itsentire circumference. It should 'click' into place. Hope thathelps, but obviously, use this guidance at your own risk. If indoubt, there are plenty of helpful garages waiting to accept yourcash :o)

I need to change both rear number plate lamps (ones blown and picked up on the MOT) and can't see an obvious way to get the plastic covers off without being damaged, secondly, can I change the bulbs to LED's so won't need to worry next time?

My Van being a 2005 Face lft would appear then to have a different fitment than kenw2's experience.................

I changed my bulbs when one went duff and I gained entry to knakered bulb by the same means as the side repeater indicators..................

IIRC I gingerly moved the light ftting toward the passengers side and this movement allowed it to unlock and your able to remove housing...............

I then fitted LED's to them both ... But had to make sure they worked and get LED polarity right way round as it was capless bulbs that are the OG fitting.......................

Update: It appears on the mk1 that all you have to do to remove the plastic housing is, move it to the right horizontally (quite firmly) and then pull gently down on the left side of it releasing it from the cut-out in the door. The reverse to re-install. (PS, there are two holes underneath that give the impression that there maybe screws holding these to the bodywork, don't let it fool you!)

Speaking to someone tonight who knows you. Guy called Mark who drove an Ivaco Daily what rusted out so now a Renault Master. He goes to Tibbie Shiels a lot as well as his partner Ruth with the white convoy with leaves printed on it.

Replacing a tail light bulb is usually a straightforward task on most cars, and should take a matter of minutes. However, on some models tail light bulb replacement requires panels to be removed either in the bootlid or the boot itself, depending on where the bulbs are installed. This is explained in step-by-step fashion in your Haynes Manual, and you'll be able to complete it with ease, but the time taken will give you a clue as to what a garage will charge you in labour fees, namely up to 100.

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But what a situation to ask customers to pay for complete rear lamps and bulb holders and wiring harnesses just because the design engineers did not carry out a simple check to ensure the connector pins were specified correctly.

Sadly this is a known issue on 207s (and the 407). I've even seen it on some newer 308s - the earth wire is woefully inadequate and burns out and causes the damage. I've seen it on at least a dozen 207s.

Main dealers will not entertain any cheap/work-around fix .It is not a fire risk,as the current consumption is very low,under 5 amps per side,and that is with all bulbs illuminated at the same time.Also a job like this is good for business and parts sales.Don't quite know how they can charge 50 + for a connector and wires that can be bought for less than a fiver.Burnt/overheated connectors on rear lights on French and italian cars goes back years,so nothing has changed.Similar problems can be found on the old Bmw e46 models and MB c-class W 204 models.Interestingly the replacement parts are cheaper than Peugeot.

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