The Japanese archipelago is home to extremely diverse cultures that made clothing and other textile objects in a kaleidoscope of materials and designs. This exhibition will focus on the resourcefulness of humans to create textiles from local materials like fish skin, paper, elm bark, nettle, banana leaf fiber, hemp, wisteria, deerskin, cotton, silk, and wool. It will showcase rare and exceptional examples of robes, coats, jackets, vests, banners, rugs, and mats, made between around 1750 and 1930, including the royal dress of subtropical Okinawa, ceremonial robes of the Ainu from northern Japan and the Russian Far East, and folk traditions from throughout Japan.
Purchase an exhibition ticket to attend a free public tour. In-person tours offered July 7 through September 1, Thursdays through Sundays at 2 pm and Thursday evenings at 7 pm. No tours on Member Days.
The Geosynthetic Materials Association (GMA) provides engineering support, business development opportunities, educational programming, government relations expertise and industry recognition. GMA influences specifications and lobbies on behalf of member companies. GMA targets key U.S. states to expand the geosynthetics market. The Geosynthetic Materials Association provides a network to exchange information, solve common problems and develop mutually beneficial relationships.
GMA is a division of the Advanced Textiles Association (ATA), a trade association comprised of member companies representing the global specialty fabrics and advanced textiles marketplace.
The Tent Rental Division (TRD) represents companies in the commercial tent marketplace. The division hosts an annual Tent Expo and Conference, a venue for networking and sourcing industry experts from within and outside the industry. The Division promotes safety for the tent installer and the public in tented events, assembles products and services listings, and represents members in code committees. TRD offers sponsored scholarships to strengthen the future of the industry. The Tent Rental Division provides a network to exchange information, solve common problems and develop mutually beneficial relationships.
TRD is a division of the Advanced Textiles Association (ATA), a trade association comprised of member companies representing the global specialty fabrics and advanced textiles marketplace.
Curator and adjunct professor Jade Papa oversees this amazing repository, which has been growing since the founding of the East Falls campus in the late 19th century. Currently, the collection houses 100,000 items, ranging from the oldest fabric from the year 234 when Egypt was ruled by the Byzantines, to a dress dating from the early 1990s.
Papa shares that this collection is incredibly important and unique. Titled a study collection, it offers students the opportunity to handle the contents, which is quite different from a museum-going experience where they would be separated from the items by Plexiglas or other barriers.
She gravitated to natural fabrics including cotton, denim, and wool, incorporating thoughtful, comfortable design details including full-size, functional pockets inspired by menswear, and zipper placement on the side seam, easily accessible for a woman living on her own. She is also remembered for working with the iconic ballet flat, as all of her designs were intended to be worn with flats, never heels.
Dorothy Liebes continues to inspire Jefferson students, and samples of her textiles are some of the most requested items in the collection. As sustainability has become an important part of fashion and textiles today, her work is viewed as a wonderful example of using materials around you to create beautiful fabric.
Ancient textiles have played a major role in the social, economic, and religious structures of communities around the world. Iconic, indigenous clothes are imbued with unique designs and patterns. Some are believed to have magical powers and designed to carry specific meanings and wishes. Often complementing traditional dance and music, these textiles amplify a sense of community, identity, and expression.
Motivated by the craftsmanship and connections of cultural textiles such as Javanese Batik or Balinese Ikat to their traditional performance arts, we began to apply an artistic approach into technological textile design and merge new materials, sensing technologies, and digital fabrication with contemporary dance and music into one united and harmonious piece of object and performance.
Tapis Magique is a pressure-sensitive, knitted electronic textile carpet that generates three-dimensional sensor data based on body postures and gestures and drives an immersive sonic environment in real-time. Demonstrating an organic and expressive relationship between choreography and music has been a never-ending feat in the performance arts, as seen in previous work by Cage and Cunningham, Horst and Graham, or Stravinsky and Balanchine. Our work unveils dancers' creative, unconventional possibilities of agency, intimacy, and improvisation over the music through a textile interface.
New smart materials and digital fabrication technologies have modernized and pushed forward textile design, fabrication, and applications. Textile's physical and functional properties can now be tuned at the resolution of a fiber, a particle coating, a loop structure, or a multi-dimensional knit layer. These textiles can be fully customized from the micro, meso, to macro-scale and computationally designed and fabricated to form a seamless and functional sensate skin. Patterns, colors, texture, thickness, elasticity, breathability, conductivity, and other electromechanical parameters can be engineered through fiber-fabric structures or material choices.
In this project, we utilized the additive manufacturing process of machine knitting and electrically-conducting yarns to develop large-scale, interactive textile sensate surface. The tapis indeed not only serves for aesthetic, comfort, and insulation purposes, but is also augmented as a responsive skin that bridges the tactile-physical with the immersive-digital world.
The tapis design is composed of multi-layer knitted textiles. The top and bottom layers are orthogonal conductive line matrices knitted within a single operation using multi-material twisted yarns. The middle layer is a knitted piezo-resistive textile, a pressure-sensitive layer that interfaces with the conductive matrices to create a sensing grid. The dense geometrical patterns of the stars scattered around the brushstroke details in the tapis represent 1800 pressure-sensing pixels (distributed in 15 MIDI Channels) and are inspired by the galactic space. Parametric design transformed these patterns into a 3-D spatial illusion to illustrate the multi-dimensionality of the sensor data.
The furry textures from the synthetic mink yarns provide a soft tactility for physical feedback and give an intimate and comforting feel of the tapis. The thermoplastic fibers were then steamed to melt the multi-layer knitted textiles into one rigid surface, giving it structural reinforcements. In addition, the outer-facing textile glows in the dark from the luminous yarns, bringing out the starry effects for night performance.
The knitted conductive lines are connected to a system hardware consisting of multiplexers, shift-registers, operational amplifiers, and microcontroller that sequentially reads each pressure sensing pixel and sends it to a computer. These pixels collectively generate continuous 3-D spatiotemporal sensor data mapped into MIDI streams to trigger and control discrete notes, continuous effects, and immersive soundscapes through science-inspired musical tools.
Several musical pieces were designed to invoke various emotions to inspire conversations between the choreographer and the instrument. Behind the scenes, runs a digital modular synthesizer made of several patches, each for a different type of performance. The incoming stream of MIDI data is first fed into quantizer modules that align the notes to major, minor, and pentatonic scales, as well as mystic chords. The sounds are then generated by a collection of subtractive, additive, and granular synthesizers. "Venus Sunrise", one of our performance pieces, as shown in the video above, presents a metaphorical celestial sound of the universe as the dancer is twirling around the stars, traveling through space and time.
Tapis Magique demonstrates the interplay between art and technology, highlighting the deep emotional link between contemporary textiles, dance, and music through the physical-digital connection. It provides a canvas for dancers and sound artists to modulate sound, perform and compose a musical piece based on choreography and vice versa; it also creates an auditory-gestural synesthetic environment that invites and encourages audiences to interact and express themselves with the tapis, experiencing a magical connection that stimulates the body and mind.
The EU has a Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles to create a greener textiles sector. The aim is a major shift inside the industry and among consumers, creating a whole new sustainable ecosystem for textiles by the end of this decade.
The new approach looks at the entire lifecycle of textiles and proposes actions to change the way we produce and consume textiles. It means that all textile products must be durable, repairable and recyclable. Profitable re-use and repair services will be widely available, and producers will take responsibility for their products along the supply chain.
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