Panther 1 16

[Justina Ky]

Looks great man and this is your SECOND one?!?! I still have mine stashed away while I tackle my other models. I'm assuming this is an OOB build, like your others? Either way, Trumpeter seems to have stepped up their game with this kit compared to the KT. I'm always impressed with how quickly you assemble these 1/16 models.

I must apologize for my lack of posting, I am graduating High School in a matter of 2 weeks so as you can imagine I have been scrambling to get more important things sorted before I graduate. I have been posting more on my Instagram account since I don't have to upload to Flickr to post them.

I'm really excited to get started on this Panther, as I can use my 3d Printer and download/make my own models and print sed models for the panther. I was planning on also trying out my skill in resin casting to make my own 1/16 misc. items instead of buying costly parts off of ebay. As I have learned quite a bit from the KT, and I'm trying to do this on a "budget"

I'll get that link for you. And the common misconception about 3d printing is that it's very expensive to own the 3d printer and to also print from sed printer. But I can safely say that the only major expense for 3d printing was the printer itself, and actually printing things off come out to cents on the dollar. As I can get a Kilogram of PLA for about 25$(USD) off Amazon. It can become pricey if you're printing large 3d models, and you run the risk of the print failing and you wasting all that PLA, but since I plan on printing 1/16 parts the chance of the print failing is very small and even if it does, its not going to be more then a dollar wasted in plastic.

First thing I noticed other than the sheer size of this vehicle (I'm used to Large Scale Panzers -see what I did there?) is that the armor plating that makes up the lower hull is very smooth in the kit. I've also been watching all the other 1/16 Panther builds in this forum and you guys are giving me great inspiration! Damn you! I already spent too much money on the kit(s) already! Yes, I have both 1/16 Trumpeter Panther model kits.

Being that I am MUCH slower than most of you, I'll try and entertain you with some mundane images of how I fixed the smooth armor plating to better resemble what the armor plating really looks like...far from smooth.

See how smooth the sides are? Below are photos of what it looks like AFTER I "textured" the surfaces of the armor plating. For those of you that are curious, I used Mr. Surfacer 500 as it has the innate ability to stick to itself as it dries creating lumps, bumps and irregularities. I used stippling motion with a flat-tipped paint brush. A quick pass with some fine sandpaper after it's dried, knocks down the really high spots and, I think, makes it look like German WWII rolled armor plating (not cast).

Anyway, that's my progress for the past couple days.... Last evening and today, I add weld beads to the various places on the hull and attachments. No photos of that yet but I'm using Magic Sculp two-part putty; it's very much like Milliput but more cost effective (you get more for less money).

You'll notice the pencil marks in the above photograph. I've discovered that the rectangular box vent that runs from the engine compartment to the brake housings on Panther G's was in fact, tubing made of several sections. The rectangular box went away with the last Panther A. Two tubes ran from the brake housings to the right engine deck fan and two tubes ran from the transmission to the left engine deck fan. On Panther's with the crew heater, this changed again, adding more tubing for the crew heater ducts to the drive and radio operator positions.

I'm trying to find the best way to construct these tubes. Since I have two 1/16 Panther kits, I am attempting (without a lot of success just yet) to design these in a 3D modeling program (Fusion 360) but I think I'm in WAY over my head with this software program. I need a lot of schooling on how to model in 3D. Provided I can create these tubes in CAD, I will then 3D print them (in sections) on my Elegoo Mars resin 3D printer. That's the plan.... What actually happens MAY be entirely different.

Yep, already have it on the inside of the bottom hull. The last two photos in the first post are of the lower hull interior. I actually purchased another bottle of Mr. Surfacer 500 for doing the upper hull and turret parts. I'm about 1/2 way through the first bottle I had... I'm actually proud of myself for thinking a little proactively here on that. Usually I just run out or get damn near to it before ordering more.

I had the Panzer IV H but sold it. I'm not a big fan of all those tiny road wheels. I have the Tiger II, the early Panther G (as I mentioned above), and like you, the Jagdtiger. At my build rate, these three kits will last me several years. That's in addition to all the 1/32 airplanes and 1/35 armor I already have. I hope I live long enough! I should stop buying model kits now...yeah, right.

As promised, below are some photos of the weld beads I've added to the hull. I'm not sure I captured the interlocking joints of the pannier-to-hull properly/completely so that area may get updated. I created a special tool from small brass tubing to get the "arc" in the welds. On others, I just used the squished end of the same piece of tubing (opposite end), shaped into a semi-circular cross section and added weld bead detail. The good thing about Magic-Sculpt is that if I don't like it, I can always just scrape it out, even after it's dried. It's a little tougher after its dried but it isn't impossible. Before it's dried, water takes it all away.

The key features were proportional controls, standard hobby sized 7.2v battery pack, a lexan body shell that was vaguely reminiscent of the original, double wishbone front suspension and perhaps the most interesting feature, a 540 Mabuchi motor which made it quite a hotrod being as it was a 1/16 scale buggy. Certainly a bit of a step up from the 280 size motor of the original.

There's a generous 3 bushings on each side between the diff and the wheel. One on the diff output, one at the end of the plastic axle casing on the inside and another on the outside in the same place as you'll find one on a Grasshopper/lunchbox etc.

The bearings are very close to 8x12x3.5mm in size but I did notice that aftermarket bearings were a very tight fit on the inside, easily solved with a makeshift lathe consisting of a drill and some sandpaper to very slightly reduce the metal parts a fraction of a mm so not an issue for me but might have been annoying for anyone who purchased the official Nikko upgrade bearings unless perhaps they deliberately used a very slightly off standard size?

The car now has bearings front and back, the only part with no provision for bearings is the slur gear but I reckon it should outlive me with some decent grease, as long as I make sure the gearbox is properly sealed.

Here's some photos showing the results of the "ghetto lathe" work. It worked out quite well but it took forever lol. I wish I could afford a lathe but then, even if I could, I wouldn't have the first clue how to use it!

The car is now fully ballraced apart from the spur gear. A big decrease in rolling resistance and it removes the inevitable part damage from things grinding against each other too. The spur gear should be fine with some decent grease. As long as I can stop dirt getting that far it should last the lifetime of the car.

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