In the Middle East you can "chip" a PSP for about 3 quid, and then give the shop an external hard drive and get about 150 games put on it for 30 quid. All it involves is changing the operating system to 3.7.3 I think. You can also do it with a PS2 so I daresay they can do it for PS3 or XBOX. All I can say is, if you're going to Dubai, take your games console with you!!!
Interesting - my son is yapping on at me to get his XBox 360 chipped, but as he spends 99% of his time on XBox Live, I take it this would not be a good idea then? He reckons he can still get away with having it chipped, but I had my doubts and reading this thread has just confirmed them. XBox experts out there - if he spends so much time on Live, is it really a bad idea to have the XBox chipped?
I've not known anyone personally to have their machine chipped and regularly play on LIVE but i've heard about people getting barred once MS finally catch them. Some of the dashboard updates are specifically to catch them. Probably have a lot to do with your luck. You might get away with it for a while but i've had chipped phones/settop boxes etc and eventually they cut them off. You only get away with it for so long.
i'd be very careful. one of mates had his original xbox chipped and microsoft busted him downloading games. they done something to his machine online and sent him an email telling him it wouldn't work anymore (which it didn't) and if he wanted to play an xbox again he'd have to buy a new one and pay for the games he played.
I just picked up a nice original Xbox locally that's been modchipped and given a 320 GB harddrive. It boots to XBMC, has sizable F: and G: partitions and even with controllers, component cables, and two USB to Xbox adapters.
I can configure XBMC to override the fan speed to a constant 20%, but something - perhaps the modchip - is interfering with that, causing the fan speed to be more like 70%, which is extremely loud. In addition, whenever the fan speed issue arises, the system also cycles the eject LEDs from green to red to orange and then repeating. This is not as annoying as the fan speed issue, but I've been unable to change this either.
Anyone know how I can solve this fan speed issue? I already have gone through XBMC to override it to a constant 20%, but any time I'm not in XBMC because I've launched a program or game, the fan returns to its very loud 70% state.
I'm actually experiencing a similar problem with the xbox my brother and I (mostly my brother; he really dug into it) hotswapped. LED is always flashing, and fan is running hard. We installed EvolutionX
The xbmc fan setting only controls the speed for the duration of your xbmc session. When it hands over control to another program, the fan reverts back to the bios setting. (if the new program doesn't try to set the fan itself)
It's possible to reflash the bios with another one patched for a lower fan speed, but I'd recommend just doing the fan mod. XBMC runs cool in an original xbox, but the same isn't necessarily true of other programs. Also, your original fan is more likely to fail than most of the other components anyway.
I just want the fan speed to be something more reasonable. I've never heard of anyone's original Xbox overheating, so I have no idea why the previous owner would have set up his system with such a high fan speed.
With a pin move the broken pin around in the jack and you'll see a itty bitty brass or whatever metal but its there. Magnification makes the entire process easier. The itty bitty piece is whats holding the pin in place. Once you found it you can push it back with something pointy. Its that little metal piece sits in the first oring notch thats holding the broken AUX in place. After you push the itty bitty metal piece back you can begin to fish the broken piece out cause its released and free. It tool me a couple times of having it squirt back into the jack but no damage to the controller, the pin removed and saved a pile of bucks. Thought I'd share this tidbit of success.
The Xbox One white controller headphone jack does not have a hole in the back. Take the covers off the controller (many online instructions), two torx screws hold the two boards together, loosen both. Separate the boards about 1/8 inch, and the headphone jack will fall out intact. Tape the jack to a table, drill a 1/16 inch hole in the back carefully. When the drill breaks through, it will push out the broken plug tip. Place the jack back between the boards, it aligns itself with a plastic pin. Reassemble and test. If this happens again, you just need a paperclip to push out the broken piece, which you may be able to do from the battery compartment (or drill another access hole to make this very easy). If you have kids who play Xbox often, this little tip will save you a lot of time and money. By the way, the headphones can also be fixed be replacing the plug.
I used a bic biro - take out the ink part, and poke that into the end of the xbox controller - hey presto the broken part is removed!! You might need to try different pens as they are different diameters
you need to unscrew the whole controller or if not u gotta get a pens tip put glue inside or gum let it stick in the jack for 24v hrs so it will dry out and just pull it out but if not unscrew ur whole controller look up a yt vid and ull see bro that happened to me before.
Its hard to think of anything as versatile at the time as the original (OG) X-Box. It was the Raspberry Pi of its day. Ok, I know the raspberry Pi is far more powerful now, but at the time having a modded Xbox with its 733Mhz CPU and 64mb RAM was fantastic. With a modchip installed it opened up a world of homebrew, apps, emulators and operating systems.
A contended subject with the OG Xbox is the amount of of modding options available. Some people rather use a completely software approach (softmod), where as other people prefer a hardware mod chip solution (hardmod). Lets go over the different options briefly to get unsigned code and custom dashboards working on the Xbox.
Using an exploit found in a couple of select game titles, its possible to cause the Xbox to glitch and run code from a custom memory card or USB drive. From here the hard drive can be hacked and custom dashboards installed. Its also possible to upgrade the hard drive too with this solution. The downside is that you will need a working DVD drive, working copied of the exploitable games, and a USB drive converter cable. It also has the down side of not been flexible in changing the hard drive again. Although returning to stock is as simple as reinstalling the original 10Gb HDD.
Another option is called TSOP flashing. After successfully softmodding an Xbox, you can then write a custom bios to the TSOP flash chip on the motherboard. This causes the TOSP chip to effectively become a modchip. This is handy for hard drive upgrades and a good fallback for booting DVD-R media also. Returning to stock will require flashing the original bios back to the TSOP though. The flash chip will only be able to hold one BIOS and the size is limited to just one image. Some custom BIOS images might not fit the flash space. A small amount of soldering is needed to unlock the TOPS write capability, but this is an easy mod.
Most revision consoles (except the final rev 1.6) have an unused header port on the motherboard. This can be used for attaching a modchip. This chip bypasses the original bios and often have a boot screen allowing booting the console and gaining FTP access to the file system without any additional software running. Mod chips often also have space for multiple bios images too. The downside is soldering is needed to install the header pins and a jumper wire. if the console has version a 1.6 motherboard this mod is much harder but not impossible.
My choice was to go with a full modchip. Specifically the OpenXenium chip. OpenXenium has the full set of features for a modern Xbox mod chip including FTP access, HDD locking/unlocking and multiple bios slots. Back in the day I used a modchip on my Xbox so this was also a nostalgic approach.
The pin header and additional wire was installed in just a few minutes using right tools. Upon booting the console with the eject button I was greeted with the Xenium menu and I then proceeded to flash IND 5004.67 as the primary bios over the network.
You can still easily find larger IDE hard drives, I have several 320Gb drives, and even a 720Gb IDE Drive. For larger capacity like 1 or 2TB (2Tb is the max for the xbox file system) you will be looking at using a SATA hard drive. Xbox works very well with good quality IDE to SATA adapters such as this one from StarTech. You will also have to replace the 40 wire IDE cable to a 80 wire cable. The adapters often will not work with the 40 wire cables.
FTP usually gets around 10-12 Mbps for larger files. FTP speed is the same for IDE or SATA drives as the network adapter is the limiting factor. When connecting an IDE drive directly to a PC with a USB 2.0 adapter, you can expect transfer speeds of around 40 Mbps making the job 4 times faster than FTP. SATA drives connected to USB3 can give around 120+ Mbps transfer speeds. This is why I selected SATA over IDE, much faster for transferring 500Gb of games. As mentioned, FATxplorer or other software are required when connecting the drive directly to a PC. Without a driver you will not be able to access the FATX file system.
Hi I have some locked out hard drives from some dead xbox's. Microsoft has a method to lock out hard drives using lba48 bit encryption. They store the hard drive key on a small eeprom chip. How can I install it on the Arduino uno chip and access the key so I can use the hard drive for storage.
(picture below, ignore the wires, that is for xbox's that work.)
I suppose the most straight forward option would be to identify the type of the chip, extract it from the circuit without damaging it, design a new circuit to power it and enable the Arduino to interface to it, write/find some code to access the EEPROM and read the contents.
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