Hp 8653 Motherboard

[Leroy Turcios]

Peoplebeen asking what is the memory limit on the HP 8653 you will need a better power supply if your going to upgrade ram because it does take a certain voltage and I will give you the 500 watt power supply you will need here Part Number# L05757-800 you need to copy that and paste it into Google but you could upgrade your ram to 32GB of ram with 2 16GB ram sticks but there is a ram stick that is compatible and unfortunately I don't know it yet but I was only here to awnser how much ram you could use for the HP 8653 I hope this is useful to people who want to know there ram limit

I have some computer motherboards that ware evidently a special-order for the ASRock Rack because the vendor does not have the model listed on their website, and when I contacted them they said they didn't keep any records of its specs.

I purchased a SlimSAS SFF-8654 8i cable thinking that that was what those connectors would connect to, but I discovered that the SFF-8654 8i is not the correct connector as it is slightly smaller in width and thickness than these connectors.

Look, judging by the numbers, this particular rig is plagued with a very high background CPU, a "missing SSD" shown with terrible M.2 NVMe SSD performance, fitted with just about the worst RAM you can imagine (Corsair Vengeance CMW32GX4M2E3200C16) which is stuck at a very low RAM speed due to its SPD (default) 2133 MHz RAM speed, and it looks like that this PC is very poorly optimized overall -but I digress.

only, it's an HP motherboard, and there are not the same possibilities as a motherboard purchased separately

Sometimes, for a newer processor than what is possible according to hp, it can work, with or without a bios update!

I think it's the same, if you try an earlier processor

Hp, very rarely deploys bios updates, for new processors

Either we find a concrete example, not obvious

Either you try, and if you're lucky it will work

See depending on the seller, if possible to easily return the processor in case of failure!

Both systems not only offer exceptional inferencing via the NVIDIA Ampere architecture GPU, but also provide the means to obtain vast quantities of data through connected devices such as IP cameras via four PoE LAN ports. For smart city applications, this reduces overall installation costs while maintaining stable power to said devices. Without the need for separate electrical wiring, the BOXER-8653AI and BOXER-8623AI's PoE ports make retrofitting the system easy while keeping ongoing operational costs low, particularly for solutions requiring sophisticated AI edge functions within existing infrastructure.

The BOXER-8653AI leverages the exceptional AI performance of the NVIDIA Jetson Orin NX through a range of intricate interfaces, while the BOXER-8623AI grants users an efficient, yet sophisticated platform via the NVIDIA Jetson Orin Nano. DB-9 and DB-15 ports provide RS-232/422/485, CANBus, and digital I/O, facilitating seamless communication with industrial machinery. Additionally, both systems support 5G and Wi-Fi expansion through M.2 B and E-Keys, enabling wireless connectivity for communication with central servers. These attributes serve as the ideal channels to harness the inferencing power of the NVIDIA Jetson Orin platform, providing exceptional utility for equipment inspection and machine control tasks.

I bought this Polar Express 1225 last year and just got around to trying it. It bought it on Ebay and not surprised that it doesn't run. I figured out how to remove the shell and looked for any broken wires or jammed parts. I don't see any thing that looks out of place or broken. The head light will come on when I apply power from the transformer but that's it. I thought that maybe the can motor could be bad or bound up on the worm gear, so I figured out if I put a alligator clip from the outside rail to the port side motor connector it runs backwards. I guess the motor is OK. It has two switches across the rear of the chassis. I believe the port switch is for the smoke unit and the starboard switch is for directional control. It doesn't matter if that switch is left or right it will only go backwards when jumped. I'm thinking that the PCB board is bad. It is marked LT130-RX-4 and mounted in the rear of the locomotive. I'm not even sure which model Polar Express this is Chief or Jr or Legacy. The hand rails are molded into the shell which is cast metal. I don't see any numbers other then the road number and Lionel stamped in the bottom of the chassis. I wrote Lionel and asked if the PCB is available but they never answered. I read that the PCBs for the Polar Express are about $15, but couldn't find this one on Lionel's web site. If some one has experience with this Locomotive, I could use some direction.

That is a LionChief Polar Express. It will only run with the remote. Lionel has the remotes available. If you tested the motor without disconnecting the plug from the circuit board, You may have damaged the fragile circuit board. They are more like 45.00 than 15.00.

You are also maybe kinda lucky you jumped it that way vs directly to the motor with two leads. The board diodes likely saved you a motor by producing "half wave". Which is ac without half it's wave, where either POS or neg is skipped. If both +&- from ac are used the motor would just vibrate. Going back and fwd at 60 time a second (household current, 60hz)

I see flywheel, check for smoothness by turning turning it with fingers. (I can write ok, predictive text and spelling won't let me... I see mistakes, but attempt s to fix them keep making it wurst.... More bit later maybe...?)

Thanks to all of you who responded. I was clueless on this one. I run all my other engines on a A/C transformer. ADRIATIC was right on target. It has a can motor w/magnets I should have figured it needs DC. I hope the diodes protected the PCB. I jumped it right on the motor terminals with my A/C transformer. As he stated it oscillated back and forth with the 60 cycle. I connected it to a 9V battery and it turned without any binding so the motor is still OK. GRAMPSTRAINS said the 2 wires hanging loose are for the tender which I didn't get when I bought it. A small connector fell out of the packing that I think was soldered to the 2 black wires at one time. I didn't get a remote with this locomotive either. Now that I know that it requires one, I'm thinking of disconnecting all the PCB connections and connecting the can motor connector to the pick up connector and run it with a DC power supply. Since I don't have any way of testing the PCB. I think the remotes are paired to the engines and only a universal remote would possibly work. This may sound silly to some of you, but I can't see buying a $65 remote for a PCB that could be toast. It may have been cooked when I got it or they would have sold it with the remote paired to it. At least now I know it's a LionChief Polar Express thanks to Chuck.

A change to DC would eliminate being able to use anything with a whistle. It would/might only be good for that loco. Anything with a whistle, the DC will make the whistle blow nonstop. (Ac volts, slightly knocked down on one wave polarity to produce an offset from + wave compared to - wave by say -2v on the neg. wave = a +2v POS. DC offset...the special dc only relay or board sees the bit of DC and whistles. It ignores AC when the waves are equal)

AC on the left, motor to the right. Ac pushes and pulls at 60hz. Each diode in this BR is a one way check valve. The set up corrals the two ac waves to the +, and the AC pulls from the - back thru the BR when it needs to. It's a simple puzzle of path options.

The bumps are what you see on an osililscope graph. (For smoother DC a capacitor holds power and releases it again as the incomming volts drop; eliminating the actual drop by supplying it stored power. When incomming voltage rises again, it charges itself and waits for the next drop. So, the bumps nearly go away. (The cap would go from + to - , more UF is a bigger "battery".)

The detailed explanation given by ADRIATIC is very helpful. I even have a Bridge Rectifier somewhere left over from being a computer tech. I'll have to check it's rating when I find it. It was probably for a power supply board. ADRIATIC and BMORAN4 have the DC power problem solved I think. CHUCK SARTOR said that Lionel has a remote for $20. That would be worth trying even if the PCB is cooked. Then I would look around for a replacement PCB and just run it DC until I find one. I looked on Lionel's web site,but didn't find the remote. If any of you know Lionel's part number for it, I can call Lionel and ask them. They are not very good at answering their Email. My wife asked me why I would buy this broken stuff from Ebay. I told her that I wouldn't learn anything from buying new ones.

The remote is 620-8653-900, the circuit board is 691-LNCF-015. I would suggest calling Lionel this week and talk to the parts lady,(usually Katy) and ask for the code to order the circuit board for the 50% off sale, as this requires a special call. No answer on what to do about the missing tender the though.

Thank You for the heads up. I will call Lionel this week. If I can get a remote that will pair with this LionChief, I might just order the PCB as a backup without knowing if mine is bad or not. All this information all of you have given me just furthers my knowledge. If I don't go the DC rout on this one the information won't be wasted. I should visit their factory when I go to China. My wife is a Mechanical Engineer and speaks fluent Mandarin. I think she can arrange it.

3a8082e126