Dupe Exe For Need Speed Underground

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Corette Guitreau

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Jul 10, 2024, 4:31:05 PM7/10/24
to optabmoisol

I took my 12th dupe around turn 200. When around turn 300 all my energy system shot down because I run out of coal, it was relatively easy to set up dupe base minimum power and then rebuild my power system completely. I am sure If I had more dupes, I would have much more trouble to manage a crisis.

I have my first base that just turned 1500 cycles, that has 14 dupes. My newer base at 850 cycles has 13 dupes. I think eventually they will end up with 16 each. I can't say optimum, because I am new and only ever did these two bases. It is just what I ended up with, by only taking dupes I liked, and only when there was plenty of O2 and food surplus production to sustain them.

Dupe Exe For Need Speed Underground


DOWNLOAD >> https://tiurll.com/2yLT0a



I usually go for 14-16 eventually (after that idle times start to pile up for me), but I am perfectly happy to stay at 3 for the first 1000 cycles. I only take on more when I have oxygen, food and cooling solved.

10-12 usually. A funny thing i observed with my play is that the amount of dupes depends on my base layout. If i can`t find a place to fit more beds where i want them i stay with a lower amount of dupes.

35 of course - one of each! I have tried bases with anything from a maximum of 3 dupes up to 36 dupes (three shifts of 12). I didn't have the patience to go too far with just 3 dupes - everything takes so long to do - and as mentioned, if you have a lot of dupes idle time starts to become an issue after a while. My most successful bases (for playing enjoyment anyway) have had between 12 and 18 dupes.

I don't have a number, it depends on how I decide to play. In other words, I hire on demand. I don't repeat the same things on every map, even if there are things I do more often than not, so I don't know in advance...

BUT, there is a problem with this build, we need 0.888 Deodorizer per dupe, that's 70kg/cycle of filtration medium per dupe, scale this to 400 dupes and you will need 28t of regolith/sand per cycle, not sure the meteor production can support this.

Each steam rocket launch from the bottom of the map made around 4000kg per trip (launch + land), or around 1.5kg/s. With 40 steam rockets you will make the entire water production from geyser look like a joke. This way you can solve both oxygen / food problem.

I believe it's a feature, not sure if they (developers) meant it this way. Is there a chance that you didn't aware that meteors carried a lot of CO2 with them ? We can make a big hole and collect a lottttt of free CO2 from space ... it's also a feature not a bug ...

Steam rocket can't produce more steam then inside of it. Actually, rocket spend many fuel for launch and land, so, let's say, rocket spend steam for launch and land only, so you can return 50% of steam on home asteroid. Otherwise it is hack.

I found toilet can produce infinite amount of morbs. Under the spoiler you may find morbs in room. (think I build it around 200 cycle), but their amount still grow. In that case PO become not a problem at all.

I saw similar designs. It`s true PO isn`t a problem but your FPS will quickly become one. You need a lot of morbs to sustain pufts and that will slow down your game a lot. Main reason why this isn`t a popular design.

I usually play 8-16 but in my current playthrough I'm sticking with the original three. It's only a little slower than what I'm used to but the scope of my machines is so much smaller. It's kinda nice.

It only takes a second to add it, which then will show up in the devices menu, and allow you to tweak some settings, notably your weight and wheel size. Also, you can check for firmware updates and see the battery status, as well as learn about the sensor indicators:

(Note: All of the charts in these accuracy portions were created using the DCR Analyzer tool. It allows you to compare power meters/trainers, heart rate, cadence, speed/pace, GPS tracks and plenty more. You can use it as well for your own gadget comparisons, more details here.)

The DuoTrap/DuoTrap S sensors mount in the chainstay of Trek bikes and depend on a spoke magnet for speed and a crankarm magnet for cadence. They are extremely reliable as long as those two magnets stay put.

Magene (the company that produces the trainer Gravat2) has a product called Gemini which can switch between being speed and cadence sensor (2 modes) also has dual ANT+/bluetooth transmission. It has been around for like a year from aliexpress for under $20.

The old speed sensor when placed on the rear wheel was well known to regularly drop out from connecting to a head unit over a ride meaning a few seconds of auto-pause every once in a while which added up to an irritating amount over longer rides. This therefore forced you to place it on the front wheel where I always found it completely flawless.

Hi Ray,
Thank for three awesome reviews :)
I am seriously loving the idea of using the Edge 530 on my MTB and I was hoping for a word on these sensors on a technical forest trail. Do you think they would hold?

I like the idea of caching the ride with the speed sensor for my commute bike. At the moment I log these rides with my Garmin Vivoactive 3, but I need to remember to start it. With the sensor, you have no manual action required.

Oh and a tip for commute rides synced to Garmin Connect and Strava: commutemarker.com Here you can add commute routes and this site marks the ride automatically as commute, changes the bike used and sets them as private on Strava. The last part is due to API issues not possible at this moment. But I have set Strava to set all activities to private and only my longer rides I change manually to see for everyone. So Strava is not clogged with small rides and walks, frustrating my followers ;)

Hi Shawn@Garmin
Is it possible to turn off the Activity Tracking as I have a Garmin head unit for this task and just need the sensor to send speed data only because Garmin and Strava double up on the activities.

UCI CYCLING REGULATIONS, PART 3 TRACK RACES:
3.2.005 Riders may carry no object on them or on their bicycles that could drop onto the track.
They may not bear or use on the track any music player or radio communication
system.
In addition, any electronic device with display (for instance speedometer or
powermeter) must be hidden to that it cannot be read by the riders.

But that brings up another question. I only ever see track cycling during the Olympics, but I though that these days track bikes had disc wheels front and back. So how would you get the sensor on a hub in the first place?

Thanks for the review! I wanted to ask only one quick thing: I would be willing to buy a cadence sensor for my road bike but I am undecided between version 1 and version 2 of this garmin sensor. I only go out on the street and sometimes spinning. What would you recommend? Greetings from Italy.

Thanks.
Are you concern that rubber strap can break? Is your plan to leave sensors permanently on bike and what do you think if cable ties can be used. How to make this small units harder to disappear? :-) Any ideas?

The sensors are part of the bike. If you have one for each bike and one ever fails (never happen to me yet) you have ready spares. Way better than messing around beforehand swapping the sensor around.

Anyone had issues with pairing the Cadence Sensor 2 with an Android phone? This sensor is not on the list of available devices in the Connect app. The sensor works since its LED lights up after a few revolutions of the crank.

@DC Rainmaker: Am I right in thinking that Strava have since revoked the ability to pair external sensors? If so, it may be that my initial plan of avoiding the need for a bike computer may have failed and this cadence sensor is useless for rides IRL?

The problem I found with trying to use an iPhone as a bike computer is battery life. If the display is kept on full-time and GPS is used full time I get at best 2 hours of battery life. For longer rides you will need a charger battery pack and cable.

Hello Ray,
it dosent work with my Polar Vantage. I can pair both sensors, but the speed sensor then is jumping for example 25-15-25-15 then it stops and starts again. Paired for example with wahoo app everything works fine.
Is there anyone with similar proplems using Polar Vantage V??
Thanks Gerald

If my experience could help, I had the exact same problem as you describe with the combination Garmin Edge 520 and Magene Gemini 200 speed sensor. After long discussions with Magene which even offered to replace the sensor with a 201 model with no success regarding the problem, my solution was to purchase a Garmin speed sensor to pair it with the Garmin Edge 520. All worked correctly since then, even with automatic wheel circumference calculation.

I have problem with pairing the speed sensor to Connect mobile because its not in the list of devices to pair. I live in sweden but that shouldnt make any difference. How do I get the speed sensor in the list so I can choose to pair it.

Perhaps a weird question, but is there some cheap head unit or display option that I can use to aggregate devices? I have a fenix watch and was thinking about picking up the cadence sensor for biking purposes. Would love to have the data from my watch and sensor aggregated on a handle bar mounted solution without shelling out big bucks.

Anybody else getting issues that the speed sensor duplicates rides if you also track it with a gps? I would have thought that Garmin would have implemented a system for ignoring the speed sensor ride if there is a matching one from a gps unit.

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