[Rad Studio Xe 2 Crackl
Virginie Fayad
This is due to latency issue, go into your options menu and click on audio setup, there you will see a drop down menu from internal block size, if not uncheck the box next to it to allow it to drop down. the higher the number the less crackling you will experience but the more delay between your midi key input will become find a happy middle to get the best of both worlds. Suffice to say you should make sure you have an audio interface such as a focusrite to help with this issue even more so. better audio interfaces will allow a lower block size compared to others and will in return allow for almost zero delay on key inputs and have minimal crackling noise. Some audio interfaces have an asio driver as well and this should be tried out as well to see if this helps. please take note there is also a menu on the top right that says "control panel" click that sometimes that opens a new sample menu to allow you to raise it more and help eliminate the crackles the more ms (milliseconds) raised the better it will help fix it.If all else fails this could be due to processor, not saying yours in bad in the least bit, but some of the beefier processors such as your may have high cores and perform great on most things but they tend to be only subpar on single threaded or multi threaded tasks. I am using a AMD FX8350 Black edition and only on extreme occasions have any issues. The link to get this processor =N82E16819113284
please make sure you have an efficient cooling system as simple installing this with a normal one can cause overheating and it will burn itself out and in rare occasion start fires due to the high power consumption and output.
After I had installed everything correctly and plugged everything in, I could hear my guitar sounds only faintly and my headphones made some terrible noise (seriously, it gave more crackles and pops than my Rice Krispies this morning).
One post suggested going to "Manage Audio Devices" in Windows Control Panel. I went there and I noticed that when I opened the tab "Recording", the crackling stopped for the most part. When I click on one of the other tabs, it comes back.
It's working! I tried it on my neighbor's pc and it works perfectly. So I guess my USB ports were the issue. Another neighbor had a powered USB hub I could borrow and now it works on my computer as well.
I understand your grief although Line 6 should not be responsible for the differences in computers. Unfortunately there is no real standard in the way computer manufacturers have to build computers, at least that I'm aware of since the differences I see in them are so vast.
Maybe you should do things the old fashioned way and write a letter to the corporate office explaining with sincerity your issues with the device and that you would like them to refund your money and have them take the product back. You get more bee's with honey than vinegar. Hope all works out for you.
Device Mode doesn't present any problems, however, when using Content Mode, there is a very noticeable audio crackle just prior to the sound coming through, and again after the sound has stopped. This happens every time, no matter what the sound is. It could be while checking the volume the PC is at, or even checking the 'narrator' voice. As soon as you press the PC for sound, the crackle happens for about 1 second, and then again when the sound has stopped for about 1 second. It almost sounds like an old record when the final track has been finished playing...I have recorded it as well. I have heard that some of our other X50s are doing the same thing. I was wondering if others have run into this issue?
We are already aware of the issue and are in the process of addressing this. Please raise a ticket via our official support infrastructure and mention 34134632 and ECS-53 and support may be able to supply a test build and we can verify the issue you see is the one we are aware of.
In Waves Central, click the settings icon, choose everything in the uninstall menu and click uninstall. Restart and go to the Waves download page, scroll down to Legacy Versions and click download on version 12.
I also have problems with strange popping and crackling noise MY Windows 11 i make The Waves SoundGrid is the main sound system for Windows
When any alerts appear from Windows, it appears with a distorted and annoying sound also when i make test in windows settings for output device the test sound like a digital problem
When i run Kontakt Standalone it also appears CPU LOAD ABOUT 10% i tried change the buffer no diffrence The problem with Kontakt was ongoing I wiped all the waves and cleaned the device and then installed everything again and it is also the same problem In a very annoying way
also some time in The Cubase Crackling sound when i monitor Via Headphone
The strange thing is that I added ASIO Driver in the SG Connect and the problem is gone?
Now I have deleted ASIO from sg connect , there is no problem with the sound and the sound is very clean from my windows and kontakt
Unfortunately, at the time they entered my device, there was no problem. The problem was repeated a lot. It comes and disappears. please working on more tests and improving your DRIVERS . OR Hardware Frimware
I have an alpine white les paul studio about 5 years sold. I noticed something on the seam of the neck joint that looks like a very thin black line. Looks like it is on the joint of the neck on the seam on the side. I am wondering if anyone else noticed something like this on their les paul. Strangely enough, I had a white jackson Dinky that did something simular.
I agree with callen, odds are it really is only a finish crack, I can figure if not a full neck crack, maybe weather made the finish expand and it found the neck join the best place to crack when expanded. And yeah, although probably pricey, a tech will fix it right up.
yeah that is kinda what it looks like. It doesn't look like it is a wood crack. Its right on the seam, maybe the paint loosened up over the years or something. Thing stays really well in tune and all.
the joint flexed more than the paint can handle and the paint now reveals where the joint seam is. don't lift the guitar by the neck unless you're holding in right next to that joint (to avoid undue flex). the further away from the neck joint (toward the headstorck) you lift from the more potential stress you load on that joint - especially true with the heavy body of an LP. as the others have said, keep and eye on it and if the seam starts to widen, take it in to luthier.
Wood's dimensions alter with changes in temperature and humidity, and hairlines can develop. It can be minimised by allowing the guitar to remain in the case so that it can acclimatise to different conditions. Might be due to some physical stress, but it would be helpful if there were better pictures.
It sucks cosmetically but sadly part of the game of owning a Gibson. My 8 year old Les Paul on the other hand has been put through hell and while theres a little checking on other parts of the body, the neck is fine... It's hit and miss.
Ignore it for now. It's Most likely a finish crack due to expansion and contraction of the wood at a different rate from the lacquer. Guitars finished in nitrocelluolose lacquer are more susceptible to this because the finish eventually becomes more brittle with age as the solvents continue to outgas. That's why you routinely see older Gibsons with finish checking and even lacquer flaking off in spots. IMHO, it's time for Gibson to stop using that junk and move to a UV-catalyzed polyester thin coat that doesn't continue to degrade with time, but they've promoted it as some kind of mojo tone inducer, so they've stuck themselves (and you) with it.
It's probably *not* an indication that there's a stability problem with the neck or the glue joint. I've got glued-neck lacquer-finished guitars that have had a crack line around the neck joint for 40 years, and they're rock-solid stable.
Think i would have a tech take a look at it , better to be safe than sorry and to me that line looks too straight across because finish cracking for the most part are not straight lines they deviate to some degree .
A couple of days ago I decided to make another batch. I throw a piece, dry the porcelain surface a little with propane flame, apply sodium silicate or its mix with a slip, dry the layer with a heat gun and start stretching.
This time I only get vertical cracks that quite quickly become a way too deep. No fine cross pattern (spider web) at all. Same porcelain fresh from the box, same sodium silicate and SS/slip mix as before.
What I didn't try yet is leaving the SS crust a bit more moist. Also, this time I throw mugs, so I leave the porcelain walls thinner since I'm not going to expand them much. But even if I wanted, I couldn't expand them more because of the deep vertical cracks that rip the surface apart as soon as I overstretch it a bit.
Bingo you have it. You must not completely dry the sodium silicate. Just leave it a little moist, and use as thin a coat as you can. I also learned this the hard way, if I dried the SS completely it must have bonded and hardened too much and the crackly was too deep and made long vertical deep grooves.
I never use a torch or heatgun after applying the sodium silicate. It is all about the amount of TIME you leave the sil on there before stretching. I use a watch. Differnt clay bodies require different amounts of time for a give type of effect.
2.) On the clay bodies I have use here and in Japan, times vary from maybe 20 seconds.... to 2 minutes. On the SAME claybody, with the SAME application amount, with the SAME thickness walls, (etc.), the 20 second time will give you different results than the 2 minute time. Generally.... from "less" to "more" change in surface.
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