If you have dwg file for the wheel you need - where the problem to go to any company with laser cutting? I've made that wheels in company which cuts for me the laser stencils and it works good. Little problem that they could do it with 0.5mm steel max instead of original 1mm - but can't see problems with this.
CL8 plate build Berndt here (if finished) using robotdigg plate. I've started build the plate on cnc but not finished yet, have plate already but no valves. Some problem is the kind of collector to mount all the valves and don't use meters of pipes and connectors (and to save the place).
Parts are 8mm apart, so the feeder has to be triggered twice.
The feeder can be configured to feed 4, 8 and 12mm in one action by screwing the pneumatic actor into different locations by using the alignment plate - I didn't know that when I took the video.
As people keep asking:
The mounting plate is using the following parts and valves from Robotdigg:
TG23-06 in 24V
Y-ring6921 6*9*2.1mm
PC4-A2 PC4-01
PUTube-4*2.5mm_1.8
FMB30
I also needed some short M3x6 flat head countersink screws on the mounting plate as it needs 31 screws, but only came with 2 or 3.
Some valves are similar types from another supplier, which turned out less reliable.
The pneumatic tube adapters can be bought from other suppliers, the ones from robotdigg may break when screwing in with the loctite, which others didn't.
You also need those adapters on the valves.
The pneumatic adapters need to be screwed in with LOCTITE 55 or something similar.
The sealing applied won't work in the threads of the mounting plate.
The feeders need 6-8 bar pressure, low pressure airbrush compressors don't work.
A high air volume isn't required, but a silent running compressor with a big air tank is a nice thing to have.
So mostly complete cost of parts for a 10 lane Yamaha CL setup from robotdigg is
x10 $5.40 TG23-06 in 24V
x10 $0.20 Y-ring6921 6*9*2.1mm
x30 $0.15 PC4-A2 PC4-01
x1 $1.80 PUTube-4*2.5mm_1.8
x1 $89.00 FMB10
x10 $8.90 CL8FC
x10 $69.00 CL84
$930 or $93 per lane
Plus a couple of hundred for a compressor
I imagine you could better this by 20% on aliexpress by hunting around, but as people keep making the argument here - what is your time worth trawling aliexpress to save $10 here and there.
And we hear the stories of people getting used Yamaha feeders on eBay for $20 a pop. Again your time to find them (if you ever do) and in my case the cheap ones you do find won't ship to you.
If you are going to accept the possibility of finding cheap ones on eBay as the yardstick to measure what something new could be worth then we all should be driving Lotus Esprit because they come up on ebay for $1
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/england/west_midlands/4122842.stm
I Still think there is merit in trying to make something usable for the openPNP community that is cheaper, easy to make and an adequate match for the most common slow 20x20+Hiwin+Smoothie kind of setup.
Now if I decide to go it alone and try design something then
A, I will be having fun designing something
B, I Won't care if doing the first unit actually costs me more than $930
As long as the design I come up with is useful and subsequent units can be built for around the target price.
I'm not saying Yamaha engineers are stupid and I can design something better and cheaper.
What I want to design has a different goal.
Yamaha feeders are modular and easy to swap out lanes - Mine wont be modular
Yamaha feeders can feed a part very quickly - Mine wont be fast
Yamaha feeders can run 24/7 for years before wearing out - Mine will wear out faster
My design goals are
Cheap
Reliable feeding
Neatly handle cover tape some way
Electrical (not pneumatic)
Low width (12 to 14mm per lane)
Low profile (40 to 50mm high would be nice)
Speed only needs to be faster than the slow PNP head
What I don't care about
Modularity / Ease of changing tapes
Feed speed of 100mS
Service life and 24/7 duty cycle
I THINK I can achieve this for $16 per lane with a setup that has
Two stepper motors in a Cartesian X/Y format under a drag feeder plate.
A Solenoid for the drag pin
A 3rd motor (stepper or DC) for tape take up